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AgZep · 12-18-2007, 03:16 PM

But with that V-12, a disc brake upgrade, and a Hensley...

Road Ruler · 12-18-2007, 04:35 PM

Now your talkin!!

Wayne&Sam · 12-18-2007, 05:46 PM

Doesn't it look like the jack is down in that photo? I still want to take photo of my AS with my Miata as the TV!

flashgrbiv · 01-03-2008, 11:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Dennis.

Your going the wrong direction.

Instead of the 1000 pound bars, use 750 pound bars, certainly not 1200 pound bars.

A bend in Reese bars of 2 inches or more, will give you fantastic stability.

Reese bars are tested to bend 5 inches, will no ill effects.

Ideally, when using a Reese dual cam load equalizing hitch, you should have 5 chain links under stress. That will also place the torsion bars parallel to the trailer frame, and will maximize road clearance. 7 links is way too many. That also says that the rating of the torsion bars is too great and/or the ball mount angle is incorrect.

The more the bars bend, the more stability you create.

The less they bend, the less stability you will have.
Andy

I've got a question concerning the above. I've found lots of the Curt Part # 17002 with 1000lbs tongue weight rating and they are pretty well priced. I have a Caravel with only 250 tongue weight (probably go up to 500 with full load of water, etc.) so from the above advice I should probably use something with a lighter rating so that the bars will bend. However, I am not sure why the bars need to bend. If there is tension on them measured as weight tension in the setting of the chains, then why is bending necessary? My understanding of the physics seems to suggest that bending is not the key issue, but clear indication of weight/tension in the bars is what is important.
Thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Flash

nickcrowhurst · 01-04-2008, 10:18 AM

Flash, stiff bars can be adjusted to have the same effect as soft bars while the rig is stationary. However, imagine the situation when the rig travels over a bumpy road. The stiff bars will load and unload as the rig goes over a hump, with a rapid change from excess weight distribution to too little. The rig will be subject to damaging shock loads. Softer bars will smooth out the shock loads, and provide more even weight distribution throughout the journey over the hump. I will always fit the softest bars that will distribute the load correctly. (For engineers, that is "distribute the ground reaction forces correctly")
Nick.

flashgrbiv · 01-04-2008, 02:20 PM

Nick, Perfect! That was exactly what I was missing!
Flash

NJtoNC · 08-24-2010, 09:44 AM

ok, sorry to revive this long dead thread, but i am reading up on all things towing related as i am highly paranoid and highly confused.

the PO of our '84 suburban jacked up the air shocks (am i using the right term?) as he was hauling construction materials around. this thread has brought it to my attention that this is bad.

can you tell by looking?

do we release all the air, or how to adjust?

**Action** · 08-24-2010, 01:13 PM

Assuming the ground is level, (and I bet it is not) the trailer is not level. The desired towing arrangement is to have the TV and the trailer level.

The rear of your TV needs to go up as well as the front of the trailer. The pic of the pacer above shows a Argosy as being very level. That is the arrangement you would seek.

>>>>>>>>>>Action

NJtoNC · 08-24-2010, 08:15 PM

right... this pics is of it coming down a steep driveway... no matter as the air socks are all the way pumped up... i meant for the pic to show the height of the TV... today i was recommended by a MoHo owner to inflate air shocks to 50 lbs... does this sounds right?

**Action** · 08-24-2010, 08:36 PM

No it doesn't sound right. Inflate for correct height, not for specific air pressure.

What ever pressure is in the shocks at the time of the pic is not enough. Your TV is draggin and the TT front end is too low. However it may be the surface.

You can put a level on the hood of the TV or measure the distance from the top or the tire to the wheel well opening. The hitch should be at the height specified by AirStream and that can be found on the factory site.

>>>>>>>>>Action

NJtoNC · 08-24-2010, 09:07 PM

Quote:

The hitch should be at the height specified by AirStream and that can be found on the factory site.

HUH! i did not know that! Good information to learn! i will look and see. yes, it is on a steep hill.

EDIT: SAWWEET!
doc is here for future refrence :

http://service.airstream.com/files/l...2039ae6c0a.pdf
mine is 19.5/ i *think* it was 22 or 24 when i measured before.

so... sound i adjust the air shocks so that when the TV is hooked up to the AS the TV is level at 19.5" ?
to clarify, this is the measurement to the top of the ball? thanks!

**Action** · 08-24-2010, 09:25 PM

That link should be all over this forum.

Yes and yes.

>>>>>>>>>Action

Inland RV Center, In · 08-24-2010, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NJtoNC

HUH! i did not know that! Good information to learn! i will look and see. yes, it is on a steep hill.

EDIT: SAWWEET!
doc is here for future refrence :

http://service.airstream.com/files/l...2039ae6c0a.pdf
mine is 19.5/ i *think* it was 22 or 24 when i measured before.

so... sound i adjust the air shocks so that when the TV is hooked up to the AS the TV is level at 19.5" ?
to clarify, this is the measurement to the top of the ball? thanks!

The height of the coupler is a direct function of the axle condition.

As an example, if the off the production line measurement was 19 inches, that is a dry empty trailer dimension.

In time, as the rubber rods give out, that dimension can drop almost 4 inches.

Andy