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Old 12-17-2007, 02:59 AM   #29
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To let you all know: I finally decided to go for the Equal-i-zer brand Weight Distribution Hitch. The lightest, 6,000lb/600lb tongue weight version.
These are weight distribution and sway control in one.
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Old 12-17-2007, 05:42 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimHoek
To let you all know: I finally decided to go for the Equal-i-zer brand Weight Distribution Hitch. The lightest, 6,000lb/600lb tongue weight version.
Have you had a chance to try it out?
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Old 12-17-2007, 06:39 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63
Have you had a chance to try it out?
Not yet...
Winter started here, so it'll take until spring before I will try it out.
From what I've heard and read, it'll do just fine!
But I'll let you know, next year.
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Old 12-17-2007, 06:54 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimHoek
To let you all know: I finally decided to go for the Equal-i-zer brand Weight Distribution Hitch. The lightest, 6,000lb/600lb tongue weight version.
These are weight distribution and sway control in one.
Equalizer "says" their hitch is also sway control.

If so, "when."

It "does not" increase any torsion in a turn.

Since it has no "brain" and does not know when the rig is not in a straight line, has "no" demonstratable law of physics "why it has sway control," then I am a firm believer in "advertising hype."

I am not against "Equalizer" in terms of a load equalizing hitch, however too stiff, but, I totally disagree with their "sway control" abilities.

Reese, as an example, does have a sway control that has a brain, since it very easily knows when the rig is not in a straight line, because of torsion changes.

However, once again, to each his own.

Andy
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Old 12-17-2007, 06:56 AM   #33
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Your hitch requirements should be easily met by this well engineered and made hitch. I do believe you will still feel the effects of trucks passing you by because of the lateral stability of your TV with its soft sidewall tires and large overhang. I think the friction in the hitch will quickly damp out any sway.
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Old 12-17-2007, 07:04 AM   #34
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Andy your reply came in while I was writing. Why are you up and on the net this early in a West coast morning? I agree that the Reese Twin Cam is a more logical choice for rigs with signifigant tongue weight. The self centering force for a twin cam is proportional to the tongue weight. In this cast he has only 250 pounds of tonque weight to work with so I do not think Reese can offer him a signifigant advantage in his unusual case. I have not tested the lightest weight Equalizer hitches for vertical stiffness but if they follow their other models, I agree they are signifigantly more stiff than an equivalent Reese and will put more load into the trailer a frame when going over rough roads and things like speed bumps or low spots going into gas stations.
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Old 12-17-2007, 07:49 AM   #35
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I must admit, I do not know that much about it.
But I do know how they say it works. And how it works (well) here in Europe, with friction on the ball only.
And yes, it's only for a small rig!

Here's what Equal-i-zer has to say about it:
Equal-i-zer® Hitch - Product Info

And here's how ball friction works (well) in Europe (in German language, but they make good stuff there...):
www.al-ko.de*/*Anhänger- Komponenten*/*Technik*/*Caravans*/*Sicherheits-kupplung AKS 3004
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:14 AM   #36
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Jim,

I'm sure the hitch will work fine for you. Just spend the time necessary with the instructions setting it up correctly.

Everyone has their own personal preferences about hitches, but the bottom line is, they all work and for the most part, do what the manufacturer says they'll do. The two most important parts, in my opinion, are total hitch/tow vehicle setup, and an experienced and capable driver. So, my suggestion is again, take the time to get to know the equipment making sure it is set up correctly, and take it easy at first while learning how the tow vehicle/trailer combination handles.
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:41 AM   #37
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I've been down a somewhat relevent path before. I used to have a Jaguar E-Type convertible that I towed around on a tandem axle trailer with a highly modified 1961 Cadillac Sedan De Ville. The Caddy had air shocks, cooling mods for the transmission, and fuel injection and electronic ignition for the engine. The trailer had electric brakes.

Although the Caddy had more than enough power (and the transmission never even got slightly hot), it was still a pretty bad tow vehicle. The drum brakes were not adequate, and the air shocks made the rig look level, but it was far from stable. The hitch was pretty far from the rear axle, but I think it was mostly a weight distribution/sway control issue.

Now we tow a 28' CCD with a 3/4 ton pickup, using the Equal-I-Zer. That rig is, by comparison, fantastic. I don't remember the exact numbers, but the Caddy had a pretty long wheelbase. The weight ratios with this rig are much worse than the Caddy/Jaguar setup, and the center of gravity situation is also much worse.

I believe the reason the Airstream/truck combo works so much better is the hitch. Obviously, the weight is better distributed on the four wheels of the truck than I ever had with air shocks on the Caddy. The friction of the bars damps out relative motion between the truck and the trailer. It's enough friction to keep our trailer stable, and the lack of centering action akes it easy to back and park, as well as hitch and unhitch. We full-timed for a year in the Airstream, and over many thousands of miles, we never experienced even the slightest whiff of sway. It was rock solid in any terrain, or windy condition. Never got spooked even once. The Caddy rig was terrifying by comparison.

My guess is that this will be a pretty great combo, with the exception of the brakes. Never go over 60 mph (100 km/h or so, is that even legal in Europe when towing?), and always leave plenty of room for stopping. Get off the gas early when you need to stop, and let the rig slow down on its own with as little use of the brakes as possible. That will help keep you from fading your car brakes, so you'll have good stopping power if you need it suddenly. Be incredibly cautious coming down long grades.

Actually, come to think of it, there are no long grades in the low countries. You could still get into trouble in the Alps or the Pyrenes though. That pass between Switzerland and Italy could be really scary.
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Old 12-18-2007, 12:14 PM   #38
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Good Post AgZeo.

I too have a similar story. Back in the early 70's my Dad had a 72 Ford LTD with 400ci and Tow Pkg. It had a quality WDH system and easily towed a 21 SOB TT.

At that time I bought a 67 Dodge Dart project car and needed to pick it up as it was not running. I borrowed a dual axle car trailer and hooked it up to the LTD without the WDH. Like your experience it was not a pleasant ride with the Dart in tow. It was 50MPH max on the back roads for 2 hours.

Set up is the key. Same TV, different connection, different results.

It has been noted before that over 90% of the rigs on the roads today are not connected optimally. That I can believe.
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Old 12-18-2007, 01:32 PM   #39
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Road Ruler,

We used to have a Pacer too. A '78 wagon, which we bought in '89 for $600. Got not respect from anyone, but it was a good car for us.

I once did some measurements to determine if a Jaguar V-12 would fit in the engine bay. Seemed like it would have...
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Old 12-18-2007, 02:39 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AgZep
Road Ruler,

We used to have a Pacer too.
I see Airstream hooked up an Argosy to a Pacer years ago. I don't think even an optimal connection would make it a pleasant ride. Oh... those stock drum brakes were so bad.

Re Jag engine... I think that would be a first.

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Old 12-18-2007, 04:16 PM   #41
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But with that V-12, a disc brake upgrade, and a Hensley...
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Old 12-18-2007, 05:35 PM   #42
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Now your talkin!!
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