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Old 10-22-2015, 01:35 PM   #15
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2013 30' Classic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreshAir View Post
Hi, Mr, '64 Lincoln, you and I have 'chatted 'before on the FB NorCal group. Love your Lincoln. Now to relate my set-up which may change many opinions. My TVs are a big '71 Buick convertible and '69 Olds Ninety Eight. Both are powerful 455s with the Buick's recent overhaul placing it at 463. Plenty of towing for our '66 Trade Wind. One would argue that's plenty with that including that both cars are heavier than the TW's dry weight of 4100 lbs. However both cars have a long overhang (5 plus feet from rear axle ) plus the need to ratchet the tow ball further out from the rear bumper because the gas filler is located behind the rear license plate. The main purpose of the WDH is the DISTRIBUTE some of the tongue weight from on the rear of the TVs to it's front wheels. The tongue of my Trade Wind hitched directly to the rear of my cars pushes the bumper just inches from the ground. Some are surprised that I use 1000 lb bars. But they 'work for me'.

Neil

Love the Deuce-and-a-quarter and the Nine Eight!


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Old 10-22-2015, 02:02 PM   #16
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2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake , Minnesota
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When selecting weight distribution bars it is important to add whatever gear weight you are putting into the tow vehicle behind its rear axles, to the trailer hitch weight. The weight distribution bars have to lift both.

Otherwise you will not have strong enough bars to restore your tow vehicle's front axle to its unloaded weight (or height), while still retaining good flexibility in the w.d. bars and gentle ride for you and your Airstream.

Wheelbase of the tow vehicle, distance from rear axle to the receiver ball, and tow vehicle suspension stiffness also come into play, but it's harder the know the effect with hitching up and weighing the rig.

So w.d. bar rating simply matched to trailer hitch weight will probably not be strong enough to restore unloaded tow vehicle front axle weight (or height). Too light of a bar rating may also cause a stiffer ride because the bars have little flexibility left in them after hitch and tow vehicle load weight (behind the rear axle) are distributed.
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Old 10-23-2015, 09:03 AM   #17
Tom T
 
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Also, if you don't crank in all of the bars' capacity to level the TV (HW + rear gear in TV as Doug says above) - then you're not using all of the bars' capacity anyway. You just have a bit stiffer reaction at bumps, which can give a stiff ride.

It's much better to be over by a margin (i.e.: bigger than you think you need), than so close you may have it over wt. on a particular trip .... like when "Lucy" puts the rocks in your trailer, or the kids have extra gear, etc.

Our Hensley Cub max'es out at 6,000#/600# - so we're at the max., & they do not recco going to any smaller bar - even though our Avion is probably 1/2 - 2/3's of that HW - even counting gear in the TV aft of the rear axle.

Cheers!
Tom
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