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Old 10-16-2007, 08:51 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman

so get a static tongue weight.

IF the tongue is over 1200 lbs by much, i also think the aftermarket class 5 receiver is a wise change.

-

it IS a time eating hassle but the process you are following is REALLY important, and not done that often.

2air'
roger that.
thanks
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:54 AM   #44
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On my 2007 Burb 2500, I have found that the shank moves up or down enought to affect the ball angle, IE the receiver is slightly larger than the shank. May be part of the problem.
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Old 10-16-2007, 09:06 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkcru
On my 2007 Burb 2500, I have found that the shank moves up or down enought to affect the ball angle, IE the receiver is slightly larger than the shank. May be part of the problem.
that's exactly what's happening on mine... now that you mention it... it could be relieving a significant amount of leverage... there's a fair amount of slop... can i expect this kind of play (between shank and receiver) in another, say draw-tite hitch?
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Old 10-16-2007, 09:29 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finalcutjoe
...
Q: do you ever stop spending $$$$ on these things??!!!!111
Short answer: No.

If you do, you've stopped using it and it's time to move on to another hobby.

I think once you get the hitch issue resolved, you will not have to make any adjustments other than maybe an occasional tweak here and there as loading might change depending on trip length, i.e. longer trip, more stuff, shorter trip, less stuff. But there will always be nickle and dime stuff. And, there will always be new tools and gadgets you think you just got to have like roto chocks (my latest "investments"), or voltage meters, or satellite finders, or, well, you get the idea.



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Old 10-16-2007, 10:07 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate
Short answer: No.

If you do, you've stopped using it and it's time to move on to another hobby.

I think once you get the hitch issue resolved, you will not have to make any adjustments other than maybe an occasional tweak here and there as loading might change depending on trip length, i.e. longer trip, more stuff, shorter trip, less stuff. But there will always be nickle and dime stuff. And, there will always be new tools and gadgets you think you just got to have like roto chocks (my latest "investments"), or voltage meters, or satellite finders, or, well, you get the idea.



Definition of a yacht: "A hole in the water into which you throw large sums of money."

Definition of an Airstream: "A land yacht."
LOL
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Old 10-16-2007, 03:02 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finalcutjoe
GCWR is 20,600
fully loaded I'm at ~16,500

check your numbers
I looked it up and the standard 2500 Suburban is 14,000#. Didn't realize you had the super heavy duty model. So excuse me for trying to help you out with some numbers.

Good luck.
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Old 10-16-2007, 03:46 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foiled Again
My .... hmmm shoulda guessed.... would they have fixed it if they didn't know it was broken?

So fellas, where do I take the 'burb to get a new aftermarket hitch receiver before next Sunday?

Paula Ford
Paula..

Let your fingers do the walk'n.....

Go to a specialty shop that offers a good selection.

I wouldn't even consider one made with round

tubing.

Check all the welds carefully, and make sure the reciever portion

is well reinforced, inspect where your safety chains mount, again look for

quality welds, consider a class 5. Better to have more than you need....

than to need more than you got. SELECT QUALITY ABOVE PRICE

Sorry if I sound like I'm preach'n but this problem has been buggin me for

awhile now. Glad some of you are taking action!!!
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:07 PM   #50
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My stock GM receiver was less than four years old when it bent and torqed out of shape as I jacked up the trailer and truck, (2001 Chevy K2500 D/A), to attach the torsion bars. I replaced the stock with a new Reese and no troubles in 10K miles towing since.

Those that know me say I'm tight with a dollar, but I will seriously consider replacing any stock GM receiver on any future GM tow vehicle I own. I am not a structual engineer, but I would extend that concern to any class IV tubular receiver.

A large portion of my peace of mind when it comes to my family's safety as we travel down the road comes from knowing I have a sound hitch setup and good tires on both the truck and trailer.
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Old 10-16-2007, 11:51 PM   #51
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Just a note but on my GMC 2500 van, we upgraded the receiver to a Hidden Hitch class V. The Class IV that is standard on the vans will not support a 30' slide out. We also bought the 14,000 lb. Equal-i-zer hitch. That will handle up to 1,400 lbs. hitch weight. I know the bars are definately doing their job since the van does a pretty good squat prior to the bars being attached. As JimGolden noted above when I'm carry a full load the trailer is also just a smidge low. Not enough to make a correction. The handling is supurb and it just hangs right behind the van and strong cross winds just don't have an effect. I had someone follow me up to the Moraine View rally and we had some pretty severe winds (45mph) from the south hitting us as we were east bound. The person told me that the trailer just hung behind the van, showing no signs of sway.

I used a Reese Dual-Cam for over 10 years and personally as much as I liked that hitch, my Equal-i-zer has been as good or better.

My dealer pretty much set this whole thing up and I haven't had to make any further adjustments.

Jack
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Old 10-17-2007, 06:58 AM   #52
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OK, I'm sold.
I ordered the Class V 'tow beast' from draw-tite...
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Old 10-17-2007, 08:06 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera
Just a note but on my GMC 2500 van, we upgraded the receiver to a Hidden Hitch class V. The Class IV that is standard on the vans will not support a 30' slide out. We also bought the 14,000 lb. Equal-i-zer hitch. That will handle up to 1,400 lbs. hitch weight. I know the bars are definately doing their job since the van does a pretty good squat prior to the bars being attached. As JimGolden noted above when I'm carry a full load the trailer is also just a smidge low. Not enough to make a correction. The handling is supurb and it just hangs right behind the van and strong cross winds just don't have an effect. I had someone follow me up to the Moraine View rally and we had some pretty severe winds (45mph) from the south hitting us as we were east bound. The person told me that the trailer just hung behind the van, showing no signs of sway.

I used a Reese Dual-Cam for over 10 years and personally as much as I liked that hitch, my Equal-i-zer has been as good or better.

My dealer pretty much set this whole thing up and I haven't had to make any further adjustments.

Jack
Jack,
have you ever scaled your setup?
I'd be curious to know if your 1400# bars are more effective than what I'm getting...
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Old 10-17-2007, 11:44 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
I looked it up and the standard 2500 Suburban is 14,000#. Didn't realize you had the super heavy duty model. So excuse me for trying to help you out with some numbers.

Good luck.
please excuse my bad manners...
i appreciate your help...
I've found there's a lot of misleading data floating around the web re. tow vehicles/specifications...
this page is identical to data in my owners manual:
GM 05 Chevrolet Suburban

GVWR 8600#
Trailer Tow Max 12000#
i.e. GCWR 20,600#
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Old 10-17-2007, 03:04 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finalcutjoe
OK, I'm sold.
I ordered the Class V 'tow beast' from draw-tite...
GREAT!! ......I hope all GM users on the Forum will inspect their

reciever and replace the OEM unit.........SAFE STREAM'N

Bob
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Old 10-17-2007, 03:13 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finalcutjoe
please excuse my bad manners...
i appreciate your help...
I've found there's a lot of misleading data floating around the web re. tow vehicles/specifications...
this page is identical to data in my owners manual:
GM 05 Chevrolet Suburban

GVWR 8600#
Trailer Tow Max 12000#
i.e. GCWR 20,600#
Well....ah.....not quite. Adding the two numbers unfortunately does not give you the GCWR. It's a seperate number, substantially lower than what you think. It is usually closer to adding the vehicles completely empty and dry weight, and the trailer tow capacity, but don't quote me on that. It varies.
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