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Old 10-15-2007, 03:59 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall
Would I be correct in my thinking a WD hitch will change the apparent tongue weight depending on it's setting?
I don't think that's the case at all. It will only do that if it transfers hitch weight backwards and onto the trailer wheels -- that's not the case. See http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...ers-17984.html. WD gear cranks the TV frame so that some hitch weight is transferred forward to the front wheels. The main purpose is to avoid overloading the rear axle as finalcutjoe is trying to do.
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Old 10-15-2007, 04:32 PM   #30
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Do you have a GM receiver on the Burb? If so suspect it is the weak link and you are bending it. That is why no weight is being transfered to the front of the vehicle.
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Old 10-15-2007, 04:42 PM   #31
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When I first got mine (set up by dealer) I thought I needed to raise L-brackets to increase the upward force on the spring bars to transfer some of the weight to the front axles. In my mind it would be like applying more force to the the spring bars as if you were lifting up on the handles of a wheel barrow with the rear axle as the pivot point. Turns out I was wrong. By lowering the L-brackets (moving the brackets down so the square headed screw is in a higher hole), I increased the load on the front axle and decreased the load on the rear axle.

When I load the bed of my truck, I raise L-brackets by moving the square headed screw to a lower hole in the L-bracket. One adjustment that was made was to add a washer behind the hitch head to tilt it away from the tow vehicle. This also helped to transfer weight to the front axle.

Apparently there is a good bit of adjustment that needs to be made between the dry weight of the trailer when the dealer set up the hitch and after we added all of our traveling gear and gas to the LP tanks.
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Old 10-15-2007, 04:45 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Road Ruler
Do you have a GM receiver on the Burb? If so suspect it is the weak link and you are bending it. That is why no weight is being transfered to the front of the vehicle.
TAKE IT FROM SOMEONE WHO KNOWS......GET RID OF THE GM RECIEVER

RECOMMEND A CLASS 5


inspect it carefully it may already have cracked welds




(ps i work at a gm store)
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Old 10-15-2007, 08:20 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate
When I first got mine (set up by dealer) I thought I needed to raise L-brackets to increase the upward force on the spring bars to transfer some of the weight to the front axles. In my mind it would be like applying more force to the the spring bars as if you were lifting up on the handles of a wheel barrow with the rear axle as the pivot point. Turns out I was wrong. By lowering the L-brackets (moving the brackets down so the square headed screw is in a higher hole), I increased the load on the front axle and decreased the load on the rear axle.

When I load the bed of my truck, I raise L-brackets by moving the square headed screw to a lower hole in the L-bracket. One adjustment that was made was to add a washer behind the hitch head to tilt it away from the tow vehicle. This also helped to transfer weight to the front axle.

Apparently there is a good bit of adjustment that needs to be made between the dry weight of the trailer when the dealer set up the hitch and after we added all of our traveling gear and gas to the LP tanks.
Hi MM, that would be true. I'll bet you can effect the tongue weight by a good 300# after you load up versus a dry trailer.
The infinite adjustability of the Equalizer is one of the characteristics that make it such a great hitch. Once you get it dialed, you shouldn't have to fuss any more.
Sounds like you have it figured out...

Bill
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Old 10-15-2007, 08:43 PM   #34
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wow, that s a lot of weight on the rear axle. Did someone sneek some extra weight in the rear compartment, say a Bambi or two?
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Old 10-15-2007, 09:28 PM   #35
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Yes that is true regarding the rear hitch installed on all 2001 through 2006 Suburbans. They are round rather than the square type we have on our Burb.

There is a recall on these hitches. I read it on a past edition of Trailer Life magazine. Sorry, I don't have teh recall number. Take it to a GM dealership and have it replaced.
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Old 10-15-2007, 10:29 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subfan1
Yes that is true regarding the rear hitch installed on all 2001 through 2006 Suburbans. They are round rather than the square type we have on our Burb.

There is a recall on these hitches. I read it on a past edition of Trailer Life magazine. Sorry, I don't have teh recall number. Take it to a GM dealership and have it replaced.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...s-34603-4.html

THERE IS NO "RECALL"....YOU WOULD HAVE BEEN NOTIFIED BY MAIL !!!!

THEY HAVE BEEN REPLACEMENTS UNDER 3/36 WARRANTY

REPLACE THE GM RECIEVER WITH A GOOD QUALITY AFTERMARKET!!

THEY HAVEN'T MADE ANY IMPROVEMENTS ON THE RECIEVER AND IT WILL

BE REPLACED WITH A LIKE UNIT UNDER WARRANTY!!!!

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...les-34603.html

SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT!!!!!!
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Old 10-16-2007, 12:01 AM   #37
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It's late

My "sometimers disease" may be kicking in. Time for beddy-bye, but... wouldn't one of those helper wheels (from the Long Long Trailer) take up some of the very high tongue weight of a 30 slide?

And... OMG, crawl under there and look at your hitch receiver! I did that yesterday and nearly crapped. (Of course I'd watched a Silverado info-mercial with Howie Long who mentioned that the NEW 2008 hitch receiver is 171% stronger than the old one .... hmmm shoulda guessed.... would they have fixed it if they didn't know it was broken?

So fellas, where do I take the 'burb to get a new aftermarket hitch receiver before next Sunday?

Paula Ford
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Old 10-16-2007, 06:16 AM   #38
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Go to a Hidden Hitch or Rigid Hitch or Reese or Draw-Tite dealer in your town. If they are a stocking dealer they should be able to put one on in a hour. If not, they can get one delivered by Thursday.
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Old 10-16-2007, 06:38 AM   #39
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Talked to EQ hitch tech yesterday... basically, we've got the thing configured properly- albeit, totally maxed out... I think 2Air is right... we must be dealing with significantly more than airstreams published 1050# tongue weight....

could the entire ~460# of fresh water weight be on the tongue?

getting a sherline... i need real numbers...

not that I don't value the information and input of everybody here- you guys have been invaluable- but I haven't been able to find any other mention of Chevy's class IV hitch failures anywhere else...
mine looks fine (although I only have about 600 miles of towing the s/o on it)

although... the idea the hitch is not strong enough to transfer the weight makes sense to me... the chevy hitch does look pretty wimpy compared to box style class IV's...

Q: do you ever stop spending $$$$ on these things??!!!!111
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Old 10-16-2007, 06:59 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Joe,

I have run your numbers through the handy-dandy Crowhurst hitch calculator and came up with the following observations:

By my calculations, you have about 1700# tension in the bars in the first case. This is transfering 700# from your rear axle, adding 490# to the steer axle and 210# to the trailer axle.

The weight distribution is 61% drive axle/39% steer axle.

In the second case you have about 3000# of tension in the bars, and you are unloading about 1260# from the rear axle, adding 880# to the front and 380# to the trailer axle. In this case you are transferring a good deal of passenger and cargo weight off the axle in addition to the tongue weight.

The weight distribution in the second case is 58% drive/42% steer.

(note: bar tension is not the same as bar ratings, 3000#bar tension does not exceed the rating of 1200# bars. 1200# bars are for 1200# tongue weight.)

I agree that you have barely changed the weight distribution in your tow vehicle, even though you have really cranked the bars up. I think the reason you are having trouble getting the axle weights more balanced is the weight you have added as cargo and passengers.

Have you considered taking along another vehicle? Maybe you can unload some of the weight by putting the kids in their own car. I think this would be a good idea as you are over the rated GCWR of your tow vehicle.

But it's your call. I just run the numbers.
GCWR is 20,600
fully loaded I'm at ~16,500

check your numbers
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:15 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finalcutjoe
...we must be dealing with significantly more than airstreams published 1050# tongue weight....

could the entire ~460# of fresh water weight be on the tongue?...
on my 34...

a/s published tongue weight...760 lbs

as measured tongue weight...1340 lbs

580 lbs is a significant difference. not the same model but...

i doubt the freshwater adds much. it depends on location relative to the axles...

my grey/black tanks are behind the axles (just barely) so carrying some waste water reduces tongue weight.

in other words, while on the road and 'shifting' water from fresh to holding the tongue mass declines...

full lpg, items under/above the sofa, in overhead lockers, in the dinette area and fridge and galley DO add to the tongue figure.

while a/s has started including a spare tire/wheel with units,

the spare's weight ISN'T included with their base figure.

so get a static tongue weight.

IF the tongue is over 1200 lbs by much, i also think the aftermarket class 5 receiver is a wise change.

no doubt you are carrying gear IN the rear most subs storage which also adds payload behind the drive axle...

another potential issue is the tv tires. are your drive tires 'd' or 'e' rated?

it IS a time eating hassle but the process you are following is REALLY important, and not done that often.

most just load, hitch and go.

cheers
2air'
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Old 10-16-2007, 08:23 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV
wow, that s a lot of weight on the rear axle. Did someone sneek some extra weight in the rear compartment, say a Bambi or two?
... a mere 500lbs shy of max axle rating...
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