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Old 06-18-2010, 01:31 PM   #15
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"Need" may not be the right standard. There are any number of things which may not be necessary or legal requirements, but that are prudent. Learning about those things which are prudent to use is sometimes a matter of trial and error. When it comes to towing, the cost of errors can be significant.

As for your test jaunt, I respectfully suggest that a better test is driving under the worst possible conditions under which you will tow. When we picked up our Overlander, we towed it for 12 hours (or thereabouts) in a driving rain on the Pennsylvania & Ohio turnpikes with heavy truck traffic moving at high speeds and crosswind gusts over 50 mph.

The Airstream pulled beautifully and the Reese dual cam performed well. As Nax notes, it's not just about weight distribution, but about sway control and towing dynamics. No matter how stout your tow vehicle, a trailer can be tricky to handle under adverse/emergency conditions. And it's not that a trailer is going to toss a heavy truck like a rag doll... but a poorly handling trailer can increase the risk of a poor driver reaction.

WD hitches are not a panacea. They are a tool... and like all tools, an imperfect compromise.
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Old 08-05-2010, 12:50 PM   #16
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Ford F250 requires WD Hitch

Both my 09 and current 2011 Ford F250 Diesel have factory warning decals on the hitch. The hitch is rated at only 7,500 pounds max without a WD hitch. That's 50% of what the sales specs state, without noting the need for WD hitches. Check your truck hitch label.

The WD hitch will give you better control and braking even if you did not require it.
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Old 08-05-2010, 01:52 PM   #17
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My long box crew cab dually with the 8.1 liter engine over the front wheels does not seem to need any bars when I tow my 26 foot 1963 Overlander. It is the tongue weight and the wheelbase of the truck that will make the difference on whether you need the bars or not. Run it for a while without the bars and see how it handles. If you feel the weight on the steering wheels is low and you have under-steer, add the bars.
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Old 08-05-2010, 02:55 PM   #18
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Would not consider towing anything matching the weight of my TV without properly mounted tow bars. Good luck!
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Old 08-05-2010, 03:25 PM   #19
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I ended up following Andy's from Irvine RV strategy on AS's. That is, they require a soft ride, so I went with a 600lb rated Reese WD hitch and Maxxis load range C tires. What a difference. Follows along nice and quiet, nothing gets jarred out of the cupboards. My old hitch had 1000lb bars and I could feel every crack in the pavement.
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Old 08-05-2010, 04:42 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by lkpills View Post
I ended up following Andy's from Irvine RV strategy on AS's. That is, they require a soft ride, so I went with a 600lb rated Reese WD hitch and Maxxis load range C tires. What a difference. Follows along nice and quiet, nothing gets jarred out of the cupboards. My old hitch had 1000lb bars and I could feel every crack in the pavement.
Do you mean Andy from Inland RV?

Andy
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Old 08-05-2010, 05:14 PM   #21
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Unhappy The Ball Doesn't Know Any Better

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Thanks for the input. I agree that I need to get it weighed and get lighter weigh bars.

The real question is do you have an anti-sway device on the ball coupling?

Picture the ball being able to rotate 280 degrees with nothing to stop the pivot of your trailer.

The law of physics dictates whatever direction something is going in it will try it's darndest to continue unless equal force keeps it where you want it to go, like follow you and your HD truck.

Picture having to jab the brakes on a turn in the rain and woohoooo jacknife city, ergo use lighter bars and some anti sway device for yours and everyone elses safety.
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Old 08-05-2010, 06:58 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Do you mean Andy from Inland RV?

Andy
Hey, you're near Irvine........
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Old 08-06-2010, 11:20 AM   #23
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Picture having to jab the brakes on a turn in the rain and woohoooo jacknife city,
No sway control device nor even a HAHA is going to save you from disaster when you do stupid things like this.

Safety is in the driver first.
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Old 08-06-2010, 11:32 AM   #24
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Ford HD Hitch Reciver

I've decided to 'dial in' my Equalizer hitch setup, realizing my AS dealer just kind of threw it on and sent me on my way. During the inspection I was shown how my factory hitch receiver was 'sloppy.' Looks like the die tool the Ford factory used was too big and therefore the hitch bar moves around a bit within my receiver. Extra noise and motion over bumps.

I was told this is fairly common and easily fixed with adding welded shims to make for a proper fit. You hitch setup should not move around within your hitch receiver as mine does. Note that my Equalizer hitch insert was measured to be the correct 2-inch size.

If you are in the Bend area, I would highly recommend of visit to Jack at Advanced Northwest Welding. We pulled our truck/trailer right into his pull through shop and he completely 'dialed in' our Equalizer. Hopefully this will eliminate some of the 'floaty' feel on my front end. I'll report back.

Bill
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2001 Flying Cloud 30
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Old 08-06-2010, 01:21 PM   #25
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The Blue Ox hitch that I got with the trailer was loose, but the Reese hitch fit pretty tight.
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