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Old 02-02-2014, 01:57 PM   #1
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WD Bars: How Do You Lift Them????

My EazLift hitch uses the tapered bars and chains. I have my Chrysler 300 set with the hitch head tilted back about 12 degrees. My tongue is about 820# and the best I can do is get 200# shifted to the front. I simply can't lift the bars any higher. Using the tongue jack I have to nearly get the car's rear wheels off the ground to get the chains on the first link. Trying to get it to the second or third would seem impossible.

I tried putting a scissor jack under the bar and raising it to the hook that way. I almost killed us when trying to lever the chain, it was so tense, the bar flew off, jack spilled out, and had I not jumped, would probably have been injured.

How are people achieving 300# or 400# of WD? The physics are simple, the more WD you want, the higher you must lift the far end of the bar. But how? I don't get it.
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:06 PM   #2
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Have you tried setting the hitch straight up instead of the 12 degree tilt? If I am think correctly the more tilt the harder it would be to connect the chains. (but I may not be thinking correctly) I have never had this problem on any of my 3 AS and one Avion. Just raise the connected trailer with the trailer jack and hook up the chains and snap shut with a 16" bar.
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:16 PM   #3
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Yea, sounds like you either have too heavy of bars, or too much tilt on the hitch head.

Are you using the pipe lever tool that came with the hitch?
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:37 PM   #4
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Depending on what you are towing with 200# transferred to the front axle sound TOO much to start with. Why are you trying for that amount of transfer? All you want to do is get the front fender down to it's unloaded height or slightly more. The old theory of adding weight to the front axle was when almost any trailer overloaded the read axle of the TV.

If your bars are topping out before you can get enough weight forward to return the front end to it's original height you need MORE tilt to the head, thus moving the ends of the bars lower to the ground before setting the chains. The further back the head is tilted the more weight can be transferred while having the bars at a normal riding level. However I don't think you need that 200# to begin with.

If addition transfer was needed and you have tilted the head back enough you should be able to do a reasonable setup. If you can not tilt the head back any further, having reached the limits of adjustment, you may have to heat and bend the shank downwards. Do not heat and attempt to bend the bars as the are heat treated.

While this is not a problem with the EZ you can reach the limit of tilt on a Reese head without have a reasonable adjustment. That is when the trunnions or head sockets have worn beyond there effective limits.


To load the bars raise the combination with the tongue jack to reduce the force necessary to pull up the chains. You should be able to do this with a 1 ft. pipe and little effort. Anything beyound that and you are not set up correctly.
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:44 PM   #5
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Without tilt, there will be no lift and no WD. To get WD, you an do two things. Tilt the head down more, or put the chain on "shorter."

To get a lot of WD one needs to move the far end of that bar a great distance. e.g. lifting the back end of the car up.

If I made up an example it would be like this. If I need 100# of WD, I might need 500# of upward force to attach the bar at the end. If I need 300# of WD, I will need 1500# of upward force to attach the bar. Where will that force come from? If I was Samson, I would life the bars by the end of the chain and slide it onto that hook. But short of that, what do we do? We use the idea of raising the back of the car by some great distance, slip the chain over, then let the car back down which applies the force by its weight now hanging on the chains.

I had the car dang near off the ground. trying to get an additional link in the chain. That lever bar they give you is only useful for moving the latch about 1/2" vertically. It's about 20" long. If you have say, 1000# hanging on that chain, you can forget using a 20" bar unless you are a body builder.

Ok, I could try a 50" bar, but now the far end of it will have to swing like 6 feet in an arc. I think that will be dangerous. And even with a 50" bar, you still have to get the link within 1/2" of the desired height. Which still requires a massive force to get there.

I'm stumped.
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:48 PM   #6
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I've been using those chain snap-ups on WD hitches for years, and have never experienced what you are describing. Either you are not doing something right, or trying to get too much weight transferred.

Maybe a video of your procedure would help us diagnose your problem.
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:51 PM   #7
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Are you using the snap-up brackets on the a-frame? I haven't read this in your description of connecting the chains, but...maybe its obvious. Then again, maybe it isn't (?).
Remove pin from snap-up bracket, let it drop down, thus lowering the attachment hook by quite a few inches, hook top link of chain, then take a 1-1.5' length of pipe and slip it over the top thingy, and lever it back UP, thus tensioning the chains, and slip the pin back in to lock it in place.

It should take this much effort. something has got to be out of place.
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post


To load the bars raise the combination with the tongue jack to reduce the force necessary to pull up the chains. You should be able to do this with a 1 ft. pipe and little effort. Anything beyound that and you are not set up correctly.
Howie,

1. The hitch is brand new
2. The head is almost all the way tilted back. Let's call it 12 degrees or so.
3. If I now jack it all up with the tongue jack, I can reach the first link (least amount of WD) before the wheels come off the ground.
4. That turns out to be a measly 200# onto the front leaving 560# on the rear. I want at least another 100# on the front. I can't imagine how I will get that since it is not possible (safely) to lift the car higher so I can get the bar on the next link!
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:54 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck View Post
Are you using the snap-up brackets on the a-frame? I haven't read this in your description of connecting the chains, but...maybe its obvious. Then again, maybe it isn't (?).
Remove pin from snap-up bracket, let it drop down, thus lowering the attachment hook by quite a few inches, hook top link of chain, then take a 1-1.5' length of pipe and slip it over the top thingy, and lever it back UP, thus tensioning the chains, and slip the pin back in to lock it in place.

It should take this much effort. something has got to be out of place.
Yes, I am using the snap up bracket. I lower then down parallel to the ground, and then have to get the chain up to that "peg" which is a good 10" away. So, we begin raising the whole car and trailer with the tongue jack, and you go up and up and up and up and finally, when the wheels are about to leave the ground, the chain will reach that peg and we use the bar to swing it over to the lock position. Then lower the car with the tongue jack.
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Old 02-02-2014, 02:59 PM   #10
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What are you towing with? There were Chrysler 300 years ago and now. The spring systems in these different cars is completely different.

You are not giving any credit to the transfer to the trailer axles.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:03 PM   #11
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Chrysler 300 - - see pic.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:07 PM   #12
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I see a problem with your setup, but it may not be "the" problem. Your snap-up brackets are too far back, unless the car was turning when you took that picture.

The chains should be vertical (straight up and down) when the TV is straight ahead.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:08 PM   #13
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Mark, have you been to the CAT scale yet ? That would be my first stop, and make the requsite three passes over the scales. Without knowing how much weight you have removed from the steer axle, how do you know how much you want to restore ?
Or did I miss this somewhere ? Perhaps you have already weighed and I overlooked it.

EDIT: I would guess a good place to start with that setup will be 100% FALR, then fine tune from there.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:08 PM   #14
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The picture is of the first attempt which only yielded 140# of WD to the front. It felt light in the steering. I then tilted the head back farther this morning, and get the weight again. This time it was 200# on the front.

ticket 1 car only: 2300F, 2180R

Ticket 2 with TT: 2440F, 2860R, 5420TT

Ticket 3 (more tilt): 2500F, 2740R, 5480TT
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