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Old 02-03-2014, 09:52 PM   #57
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I think it will be fine at 200 lbs over original weight. Just fine.
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:45 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by Ron Gratz View Post
Can you tell us what WW measurements Andy said to shoot for?

What are you calling the "adjustment screw"?

Usually there is a bolt with a one-sided handle. This bolt is used as an "on-off" control for the friction force.
A separate screw which requires a screw driver is used to adjust the magnitude of the friction force which is applied when the control handle is tightened "on".
As one engineer to another -- did you read all of the instructions?
I know I usually don't.

One symptom of "too tight" is if you have to consciously steer the car back to straight ahead after turning a corner or making a lane change -- as opposed to letting the front wheel alignment return the steering to straight ahead.

Ron
Below the on and off handle is a bolt which tightens the plate friction. It is what you are calling a screw. When mounting this one has to extend the sliding plate by hand. Impossible unless that bolt is practically removed, thereby losing factory setting.
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:20 PM   #59
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Below the on and off handle is a bolt which tightens the plate friction. It is what you are calling a screw. When mounting this one has to extend the sliding plate by hand. Impossible unless that bolt is practically removed, thereby losing factory setting.
It should not be necessary to change the setting of the adjusting bolt to get the bar to slide. The adjusting bolt usually is factory-adjusted for a typical amount of friction force.

The on/off bolt might need to be unscrewed several turns. If you back it off enough, the bar should side. If that fails, something must be causing the bar to stick.

I towed 70,000 mile with a DrawTite friction sway control which is essentially the same as the one you have. I never encountered the kind of problem you're having.

Ron
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Old 02-03-2014, 11:35 PM   #60
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It should not be necessary to change the setting of the adjusting bolt to get the bar to slide. The adjusting bolt usually is factory-adjusted for a typical amount of friction force.

The on/off bolt might need to be unscrewed several turns. If you back it off enough, the bar should side. If that fails, something must be causing the bar to stick.

I towed 70,000 mile with a DrawTite friction sway control which is essentially the same as the one you have. I never encountered the kind of problem you're having.

Ron
It had to be loosened one wsy or another. Perhaps I chose the wrong way by taking out the bolt rather than the handle. But, it is on, and I have it working with the bolt back to my recollection of it visually.
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Old 02-04-2014, 09:55 AM   #61
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Can you tell us what WW measurements Andy said to shoot for?


Ron
His recent 300 was about 1/2" - 3/4" down in the front and 1/2" - 1" down in rear.

My current setup is 1/2" down in front, and 1-1/2" down in rear, BUT the rear was around 1/2" higher than stock due to the air shocks. The have to be a little extended in order to work on my car (there was no standard part for this car and it was installed as a custom install.).

So, I think my setup is now very much like Andy's. I'll visit the scale again.
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Old 02-04-2014, 10:02 AM   #62
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I would agree if all of the 2500# on the front axle resulted from the mass of the tow vehicle and the location of its center of gravity.
However, about 25% of that 2500# is not a result of TV mass and CG location.

The 625# which was exerted on the front axle via application of WD is not a result of additional TV mass.
That 625# is a result of torque from the WDH being translated to a downward force on the front axle via leverage.

The extra 625# of tire load means additional lateral tire force, but there is no corresponding TV mass to absorb the effects of the additional force.
This causes the TV to "steer" more than the steering wheel angle is requesting.

There is delicate balance among front axle lateral force, rear axle lateral force, and CG location.
The imposition of a force, without corresponding mass, on the front axle can upset the balance.

Ron
It took me a bit to visualize this. But I think I see the difference. My intuition tells me that when there is no WD, the ball/coupler is sagging a lot. The initial WD easily lifts the back end to the point of about 20" above ground - the height ball started out. But as you try to apply more WD than that, it becomes very hard to raise the ball/coupler above 20" and the force applied begins to be just torque on the front axle. I think that's what is being said.
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