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Old 02-02-2014, 03:10 PM   #15
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Setup looks reasonable. My first though is you are WAY beyond the limits of the cars rear springs. A softly sprung rear axle can't act as a fulcrum, necessary to transfer weight, until it has almost bottomed out.

Again you need to weigh the trailer axle also to determine the amounts transferred.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:11 PM   #16
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I see a problem with your setup, but it may not be "the" problem. Your snap-up brackets are too far back, unless the car was turning when you took that picture.

The chains should be vertical (straight up and down) when the TV is straight ahead.
Correct. In that picture, they had a wickedly long bolt which prevented me getting them more forward. I then cut the bolts down, and now they sit against the propane covers and the chains are straighter. It made a small difference in the effort needed to connect the chains.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:16 PM   #17
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More info.

Once hooked up my wheel wells are back to level, and the trailer is level. There's no sag in the car. I have air shocks pumped at about 70#.

The car has IRS. And I never considered the suspension mushy. It has the sport touring suspension.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:18 PM   #18
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The angle of the chains has NO effect on the system. The laws of trig still render the same net lift to the bars. Just a slight additional load in the chain itself.

Another consideration you should consider is you have NO Sway Control in that system and a grossly under sized TV.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:19 PM   #19
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Mark, have you been to the CAT scale yet ? That would be my first stop, and make the requsite three passes over the scales. Without knowing how much weight you have removed from the steer axle, how do you know how much you want to restore ?
Or did I miss this somewhere ? Perhaps you have already weighed and I overlooked it.

EDIT: I would guess a good place to start with that setup will be 100% FALR, then fine tune from there.
Thanks....
The biggest problem right now is a physical one...how on earth to get the bars up higher? I am at the limit of what the tongue jack can do. Surely this must be a common problem for any WD bar setup? Right? How do people lift the bars to get a lot of WD?
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:22 PM   #20
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The angle of the chains has NO effect on the system. The laws of trig still render the same net lift to the bars. Just a slight additional load in the chain itself.

Another consideration you should consider is you have NO Sway Control in that system and a grossly under sized TV.
I have the friction sway control to add. I've been just trying to do this one step at a time. We're not rolling yet - just testing.

As to the vehicle size etc, that was an long extended many months conversation in the TV forum, and many of these 300s are being used as very good TVs with large Airstreams. So, that part was a long and careful consideration, and that decision is past. I got this specific car as the TV.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:22 PM   #21
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put a block under the jack leg? not enough travel on mine, otherwise.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:24 PM   #22
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Have you considered the towing limits of the Chrysler 300 as per manufactures recommendations?

It is not a problem of weight transfer.

You have one unsafe system there.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:36 PM   #23
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put a block under the jack leg? not enough travel on mine, otherwise.
Oh, I've got plenty of travel on the jack. I just don't want to life the car's rear wheels off the pavement! And, I assume the jack was made for lifting the 1000 pound tongue of the trailer, not that PLUS a 4500 pound car!

I feel like I must be doing something wrong procedurally. Lots of people have WD bars. To be effective, they need to carry a heck of a lot of load, and that takes a lot of force to get hooked up.
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Old 02-02-2014, 03:40 PM   #24
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Thanks....
The biggest problem right now is a physical one...how on earth to get the bars up higher? I am at the limit of what the tongue jack can do. Surely this must be a common problem for any WD bar setup? Right? How do people lift the bars to get a lot of WD?
Hi, with my Eqal-i-zer brand hitch, my tongue jack will raise my set-up high enough for me to push my spring bars into place by hand. You might consider driving your tow vehicle's rear wheels onto blocks and may also need to add a block under you tongue jack. Your chains should snap in place easily. You could use something like Lynx leveler blocks, which you might need to carry anyhow.
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Old 02-02-2014, 04:00 PM   #25
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Mark,
What I am suggesting about restoring front axle weight is that I would have guessed ( key word here fro me is "guess" ) would be that restoring the front axle to 100% would be a good starting point. If you are trying to go to a siginificant higher load on the front, then I could see that could make snapping the bars up more difficult. You are essentially having to "preload" the front suspension of the car with all that weight, connect the bars, then lower the trailer "onto" the bars.
Is it considered normal to restore more than 100% front axle load on these car setups that CanAm does ?
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Old 02-02-2014, 04:04 PM   #26
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Have you considered the towing limits of the Chrysler 300 as per manufactures recommendations?

It is not a problem of weight transfer.

You have one unsafe system there.
Will all due respect, can we just keep the focus of this thread on trying to help the OP with the issue of connecting his weight distributing hitch ?

His setting up of this car to pull this trailer has been covered in depth in other threads, and it is safe to say he has done a lot of homework, and a lot of work on this. If you read his other threads, you'll see all the effort that has gone into it.
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Old 02-02-2014, 04:12 PM   #27
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What I do with the WD.

I have 3/4 ton Chevy and a 25' Safari. with a Reese WD.
I just lift the tongue with the jack a bit, and the bar chains slip on the hooks very easily. And off very easily. Could it be possible that your vehicle hitch is so low it cannot work properly?
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Old 02-02-2014, 04:24 PM   #28
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Oh, I've got plenty of travel on the jack. I just don't want to life the car's rear wheels off the pavement! And, I assume the jack was made for lifting the 1000 pound tongue of the trailer, not that PLUS a 4500 pound car! ...

If you have the standard Barker jack that Airstream installs on the trailers, it is rated at 3000# which may be more than the combination of your tongue weight and rear vehicle weight at the bumper. I have successfully used it to raise the rear of my Expedition off the ground to change a rear tire. If you find you need to raise the rear of the 300 that high to attach the chains, be sure to chock some wheels. Assuming the receiver is rated to exceed the amount of weight you are putting on it, be watchful where it is attached to your TV. Hopefully there is sufficient reinforcement at the mounting points. We realize there is a lot of stress on the receiver and it's attachment and many of us make a point of looking at things under there on a regular basis for loose hardware, cracks in welds, etc.
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