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Old 09-01-2014, 02:31 PM   #1
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Video PP hitch install?

There's lots of videos on YouTube about hitching to your ProPride but I haven't seen one on installing one - or taking it off to grease the ball and reinstall (a friend who has a Hensley put a zerk on the ball fitting - genius! ).

Anyone got video of this they could point to?

If not - is anyone willing to video the process of dismantling yours and re-installing?

If someone wants to do it on my trailer, I'll film it! :-)
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Old 09-01-2014, 03:44 PM   #2
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Greasing the ball is easy. Simply put a large block of wood or concrete block under the main part of the ProPride head, lower the tongue using the tongue jack, release the coupler lock, raise the tongue, apply grease, lower tongue, re-lock the coupler lock, and raise the tongue to its original position. It's almost as fast doing it as it is typing it.
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Old 09-01-2014, 03:48 PM   #3
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While not a video, this may help:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/...7618684477177/
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Old 09-01-2014, 04:34 PM   #4
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All I see is a lot of steel that is heavy and hangs low still uses spring bars, I will stay with my original Reese dual cam hitch it is not new style with threaded adjustment that has been a weak point in my estimation and lots harder to adjust, older style still can be found, no heavy lifting or complexity with Reese hitch
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Old 09-01-2014, 05:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander63 View Post
Greasing the ball is easy. Simply put a large block of wood or concrete block under the main part of the ProPride head, lower the tongue using the tongue jack, release the coupler lock, raise the tongue, apply grease, lower tongue, re-lock the coupler lock, and raise the tongue to its original position. It's almost as fast doing it as it is typing it.
Well that does sound easy! Thanks. Thanks to do the link to the pics, but I'm lost :-(

Next person who buys and installs one of these has to do a video, ok?? :-)
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Old 09-01-2014, 05:36 PM   #6
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All I see is a lot of steel that is heavy and hangs low still uses spring bars, I will stay with my original Reese dual cam hitch it is not new style with threaded adjustment that has been a weak point in my estimation and lots harder to adjust, older style still can be found, no heavy lifting or complexity with Reese hitch
Super - not sure how that adds any value whatsoever to this thread, but glad you're happy with your hitch. If you ever install a ProPride - perhaps you could video that and post it? :-)
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Old 09-01-2014, 05:45 PM   #7
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Hi Steve:

I won't be of any help. But because I also have a PP hitch, how often do you feel we should be greasing the ball?

Thanks

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Old 09-01-2014, 05:53 PM   #8
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I find once a year is sufficient on my HAHA...should be the same on a PP. That translates to about 5000 miles. Adjust your schedule accordingly.
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:10 PM   #9
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If the ball squeels like a just "cut" pig, it needs grease!
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:14 PM   #10
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If the ball squeels like a just "cut" pig, it needs grease!
On a ProPride or HaHa, the ball doesn't pivot or move much. At most, there will be some rattling and clanking.
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Old 09-01-2014, 07:24 PM   #11
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I don't have any squeal - I just noticed that part of the installation process was to grease the ball. I didn't install it - my dealer did. At some point, I'd really love to learn how to do it....
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Old 09-01-2014, 09:27 PM   #12
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As mentioned above, lower tongue onto a support like wood block. Release the hitch. Raise the tongue of trailer. The PP should detach from the tongue hitch. Raise until clear of "ball" mounted to PP.

Carefully ensure trailer and pp are stable. Now , clean off ball old grease (I use a rag saturated in WD40. Clean inside hitch carefully. Regrease.

Carefully lower trailer tongue onto the PP ball. Relatch hitch. Raise trailer.

I used a low clearance floor jack to lower and raise the PP from the hitch.

My son was there to help stabilize the PP.
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:19 AM   #13
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For additional safety after raising the hitch off the Hensley or ProPride ball, place jack stands under each side of the "A" frame so a hydraulic jack failure does not result in injury.
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:22 AM   #14
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I do the floor jack method. Takes only a few minutes to clean and grease. I have a can of Reese Hitch Grease that never seems to run out.
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Old 09-02-2014, 09:54 AM   #15
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Thanks for this folks - I don't have a lot of miles on my PP hitch (its still new) and only drove it home from the dealer a couple thousand Km. That said, I do hear a cracking sounds sometimes when I turn sharp. Because the dealer installed my hitch I will drop the hitch off the ball today and make sure everything is greased up properly.

Thanks for thee instructions on how to do this....

Cheers
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Old 09-02-2014, 10:09 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arcticfox View Post
Thanks for this folks - I don't have a lot of miles on my PP hitch (its still new) and only drove it home from the dealer a couple thousand Km. That said, I do hear a cracking sounds sometimes when I turn sharp. Because the dealer installed my hitch I will drop the hitch off the ball today and make sure everything is greased up properly.

Thanks for thee instructions on how to do this....

Cheers
Doug
Are you greasing the zerks where the bars meet the head? That's more likely a cause of creaking - unless the dealer didn't grease the ball at all...
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Old 09-02-2014, 11:21 AM   #17
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Cool propride hitch

[QUOTE=cwf;1504680]As mentioned above, lower tongue onto a support like wood block. Release the hitch. Raise the tongue of trailer. The PP should detach from the tongue hitch. Raise until clear of "ball" mounted to PP.

Carefully ensure trailer and pp are stable. Now , clean off ball old grease (I use a rag saturated in WD40. Clean inside hitch carefully. Regrease.

Carefully lower trailer tongue onto the PP ball. Relatch hitch. Raise trailer.

I used a low clearance floor jack to lower and raise the PP from the hitch.

My son was there to help stabilize the pp Why have a hitch that requires a floor jack to put on hitch, as I state before lots of heavy steel to lift also maintenance issues but each to there own as I will never own one. An old adage build a better mouse trap but old design still works new stuff long gone but some one will always tout new is better or not. My thoughts I will take a lot of flack over this post.
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Old 09-02-2014, 11:50 AM   #18
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Doug

About the cracking sound when you turn sharply. Be sure the tongue jack is fully retracted or the bottom of it can contact the ProPride weight distribution bars in those sharp turns. There should be no noise in turns.
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:18 PM   #19
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Also many municipalitys require that hitch be removed and Il vehicle codes state can not be more than 4 in. from bumper if can not be removed will be covered with RED cover, other states might have laws about hitch not removed. People care about weight but hang lots of steel on rear of tow Veh. Food for thought. Use what ever you like but be aware of possibly breaking laws plus liability with Ins. Companys
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Old 09-02-2014, 12:22 PM   #20
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Are you greasing the zerks where the bars meet the head? That's more likely a cause of creaking - unless the dealer didn't grease the ball at all...
Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Doug

About the cracking sound when you turn sharply. Be sure the tongue jack is fully retracted or the bottom of it can contact the ProPride weight distribution bars in those sharp turns. There should be no noise in turns.
Thanks guy's:

I just greased the main ball and it took about 5 minutes. Very easy to do - followed the instructions above. It looked like they had greased during the main install but there was not a ton on it. Wiped it all clean and then put a fresh supply on the ball - all should be good now.

Also greased the zerks and they did not seem to have a lot of grease either. Now everything has "lots" - as grease is cheap!

Thanks again for the input. I will watch the tongue jack the next time I hook up to make sure it's all the way up. That might have been it its hard to tell.
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