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Old 09-20-2017, 01:54 PM   #15
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1993 30' Excella
Elora , Ontario
Join Date: Mar 2011
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I made this mistake once parking in storage for the winter...the tension was still there and the trailer came forward with the tow vehicle when I pulled ahead. I had no clue until the trailer scraped the edge of the door frame - I was not happy! My procedure now is:

1 - always have a spotter to assure me the stinger is coming out!
2 - adjust the jack height to take a bit of tongue weight
3 - put x-chocks between the trailer wheels
4 - loosen the weight distribution bars fully
5 - physically release tension by inserting steel bar between the HA head and the stinger base (between the steel tabs on the HA head opening and the pin holders on the stinger). If all is well it usually releases about half an inch.

Then I know I can safely drive forward. Sounds drawn out but with practice it's quick.
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Old 09-20-2017, 11:50 PM   #16
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2006 34' Classic S/O
Fort Worth , Texas
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First pull straight forward slightly (as previously mentioned) and activate the manual brakes. That will straighten every thing out inline. After chocking the TT, lower the spring bars, lower the jack until you see the shank drop down slightly from the inside top of the receiver socket. At this point you can separate the Hensley at the truck if the pin is pulled or the hitch head if the over center latches are released. Drive away! My driveway is curved so I have to do the above.
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Old 09-21-2017, 12:38 AM   #17
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1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
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Uncoupling my Hensley Hitch

Quote:
Originally Posted by KWN306 View Post
I have the opposite problem. I have no problem dropping the trailer in the campground and driving away.



My issue is hooking the damn thing back up.



There is never a level campsite so you are always either raising or lowering the tongue jack to get the trailer level.



My issue is I can never get the proper height so the stinger slides in correctly, it always hangs up.



Love the hitch but when it takes over an hour plus to hook up to leave I find that frustrating to say the least.


There is a trick that I have used on uneven sites when I wasn't able to get the stinger wedges all the way into the Hensley.

I back the stinger into the Hensley as far as possible, move the "over center" pawls fully outboard, and close the pawl knuckles over the pawl seats on the stinger, and then insert the safety pins through the holes in the stinger extensions locking the knuckles over the stinger plate. This allows me to move the trailer with the stinger being slack, but "locked" to the Hensley unit.

I then pull the trailer to a level spot a few dozen feet away to level ground and hook the trailer up right.

I don't know, maybe I will support again so I can upload a few pictures, because I know some of you wont get what I am describing here..... but, even if I can't describe very well, the trick does work....
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Old 09-22-2017, 07:47 AM   #18
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I took a wooden yardstick and measured the height from the ground to the bottom of the hitch attached to the truck (this should always be the same). I marked this height on the yardstick. I then jack higher or lower the trailer hitch part until it is the same height as marked on the yardstick. I am then able to just back the truck up and connect. This has worked very well for me and is easy to do.
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Old 09-22-2017, 08:38 AM   #19
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Burlington , Ontario
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The tip I got some years ago from Terry at Hensley that has served me well is as follows (Previously I experimented with sticks with O-rings on them etc)

Once the weight bars are completely released, pay attention the the exact interface where the truck end of the stinger goes into the truck receiver and manipulate the tongue jack up and down.

In so doing, the point at which there is neither upward of downward force being transmitted from the trailer to the truck can quite easily be found - it is at that point that you know there is no binding of the stinger due to vertical load and it should pull free easily.

You can find this "no-load" point easily by either sight or touch.

If you watch closely the interface where the stinger enters the receiver, you will see slight relative motion between the top of the stinger bar and the top edge of the receiver when the load is removed / applied.

Or ...........

You can place a thumb or finger just at the entry point of the hitch and you will feel it come lose - and no, I have never had my finger pinched!

It always has worked for me.

Now and then if I am uncertain, I might run the jack slightly p and down a couple of times through the loose spot just to confirm that I have it right.
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Old 09-22-2017, 08:46 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingeezer View Post
The tip I got some years ago from Terry at Hensley that has served me well is as follows (Previously I experimented with sticks with O-rings on them etc)

Once the weight bars are completely released, pay attention the the exact interface where the truck end of the stinger goes into the truck receiver and manipulate the tongue jack up and down.

In so doing, the point at which there is neither upward of downward force being transmitted from the trailer to the truck can quite easily be found - it is at that point that you know there is no binding of the stinger due to vertical load and it should pull free easily.

You can find this "no-load" point easily by either sight or touch.

If you watch closely the interface where the stinger enters the receiver, you will see slight relative motion between the top of the stinger bar and the top edge of the receiver when the load is removed / applied.

Or ...........

You can place a thumb or finger just at the entry point of the hitch and you will feel it come lose - and no, I have never had my finger pinched!

It always has worked for me.

Now and then if I am uncertain, I might run the jack slightly p and down a couple of times through the loose spot just to confirm that I have it right.
This works well, and I have a couple of other suggestions to accomplish the same determination. If you have stinger mounted stone flaps (ie. RockTamers), while lifting or lowering the jack with one hand, reach the end of the flap bar and jiggle with your free hand. When tension is off the head and stinger, the stinger and head will flop around and "jingle" with your jiggling of the flap rod.

If you do not have stinger rock flaps, jiggling the head assembly with your free hand will accomplish the same thing.
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