the ultimate haha users guide...

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

if you need a parts LIST, it is linked early; in the owners manual and downloadable.

unless a strut or jack breaks, most of us don't have the need for spares...

of course i could contact haha, and tell 'em one of mine broke.

IF 4 of us do that u'd have a set!

if it's a salvage take off u may need the frame mounting brakets too...

brakets, struts and screw jacks...

wouldn't surprise me IF that isn't 600$ o'stuff...

cheers
2air'

I did download (and print) the whole manual.All 37 or so pages' worth, but sometimes it's better to have it in your hand where you can touch and feel it. I don't have to lug my computer around when I look for parts, either, I just whip out page 6 and point to what I want.
Lessee, looks like I need:
frame brackets
2/3 of the jack assemblies
spring bars
1 safety key
strut assemblies
spring bar u-brackets
u-bolts and plates
I think that's everything I can't get at the store.

[Hensley Ron]

Spring bar u-brackets come with the spring bars. I didn't see the hitch bar mentioned. Did you get the right size? Give Jarrod a call at x103 and he can walk through the parts with you. No pressure to buy anything, but we want to make sure you're getting the right parts and safe.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by Hensley Ron

Spring bar u-brackets come with the spring bars. I didn't see the hitch bar mentioned. Did you get the right size? Give Jarrod a call at x103 and he can walk through the parts with you. No pressure to buy anything, but we want to make sure you're getting the right parts and safe.

Thanks, Ron, I'll give a call as soon as I have a chance during business hours. The hitch bar is the correct drop. I installed the Big Orange Part at work, on the level concrete floor, and floor to top of ball is 19", nearly perfect. Serial # is 06864.
There's an SOB about two sites over with a HAHA (it's worth more than the trailer) that's permanently moored, I can go take measurements for holes under cover of darkness, so I have a visual aid.

[millvalleyca]

Hi guys

We just got back from our 2,000 mile Grand Canyon trip.

The HAHA performed as advertised!

I think I may have to trade my 6" drop for a 4". I hope you can tell from my pictures.

The picture on the right looks like my front end is tipping (the ground seemed to be pretty level)

The left picture shows the trailer after I used the jack to "level" the trailer...about 2". It lifted the back of the truck up too because I didn't unhitch.

What do you think? Do I need a 4" drop or is it about as level as it's gonna get?

The other question I have has to do with the tension bar...I have it on the "first line from the top" I tried it on the "middle line" and it felt a bit stiffer....never tried the "bottom line" because I feel uncomfortable apply so much tention to the weight distribution bars.
Does this have anything to do with "leveling the trailer?"

Your comments are greatly appreciated!

Thanks
Dennis

[dpandorf]

Originally Posted by millvalleyca

Hi guys

We just got back from our 2,000 mile Grand Canyon trip.

The HAHA performed as advertised!

I think I may have to trade my 6" drop for a 4". I hope you can tell from my pictures.

The picture on the right looks like my front end is tipping (the ground seemed to be pretty level)

The left picture shows the trailer after I used the jack to "level" the trailer...about 2". It lifted the back of the truck up too because I didn't unhitch.

What do you think? Do I need a 4" drop or is it about as level as it's gonna get?

The other question I have has to do with the tension bar...I have it on the "first line from the top" I tried it on the "middle line" and it felt a bit stiffer....never tried the "bottom line" because I feel uncomfortable apply so much tention to the weight distribution bars.
Does this have anything to do with "leveling the trailer?"

Your comments are greatly appreciated!

Thanks
Dennis

Hi Dennis, looks like we have the same truck and have been towing our trailer with the 2" drop and don't think that is enough. Just received the 4" drop and will break it in 2 weeks as we head out on a 13 week trip to the NW. I think the 6" drop is a little too much.

I moved my tension bar to the middle notch from the bottom notch.

[millvalleyca]

Originally Posted by dpandorf

Hi Dennis, looks like we have the same truck and have been towing our trailer with the 2" drop and don't think that is enough. Just received the 4" drop and will break it in 2 weeks as we head out on a 13 week trip to the NW. I think the 6" drop is a little too much.

I moved my tension bar to the middle notch from the bottom notch.

Hi Duane
Don't you just love your truck! I think the best thing are the mirrors!

Does it make a difference that your trailer is 34' vs my 27'?

Was the nose of your trailer sticking up at 2"?
Dennis

[dpandorf]

Originally Posted by millvalleyca

Hi Duane
Don't you just love your truck! I think the best thing are the mirrors!

Does it make a difference that your trailer is 34' vs my 27'?

Was the nose of your trailer sticking up at 2"?
Dennis

My nose sticks up with the 2" and that's why I finally ordered the 4" drop. Just had my truck serviced today for our 13 week road trip. About to turn over 20k and had the oil, fuel filters and tires rotated.

I was feeling pretty good when the service rep went over the brake check as part of the tire rotation. "Brake pads are like new!" So I guess I've been babying the thing.

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by millvalleyca

...The picture on the right looks like my front end is tipping (the ground seemed to be pretty level)

The other question I have has to do with the tension bar... I feel uncomfortable apply so much tention to the weight distribution bars...Does this have anything to do with "leveling the trailer?"

hi millva'

in R side pic, the trailer nose is LOW and the truck tail is LOW too...

this suggests that the spring bars are UNDER TENSIONED, and should be tensioned MORE....

here is a quick "leveling" primer...

1. part the trailer on VERY LEVEL ground with enough level space for the tv too...
2. adjust the tongue jack until the trailer is VERY LEVEL. use a LEVEL and record the trailer HEIGHT ft/bk...
...at the beltline or some other specific marker on the trailer.
3. back the LOADED tv (with stinger) up to within 1 inch of docking with the trailer, but don't hook up...
4. MEASURE the truck stance (height at wheel wells) at all corners
5. adjust the haha so it is LEVEL like the trailer (us the screw jacks 4 this) so the stinger and haha are parallel to each other.
....they still aren't at the same HEIGHT (stinger and haha), but should be parallel...
6. note the DIFFERENCE between the haha box and stinger height
7. IF the difference is more than 3 inches, u will likely need MORE DROP on the stinger...
8. IF the stinger is level with the box or +1 to -2 inches different it should work.
9. now adjust the tongue jack to allow docking.
10. back in and hook up, and RETRACT the trailer tongue jack completely with NO tension on the spring bars.
.....the connected units should look like or RIGHT picture at this point (low at the hitch)...
11. tighten the spring bars until the trailer is LEVEL AGAIN, use a level AND see the measurements in #2
12. now check the truck stance again (see #4) ideally the entire truck is lower about the same at each corner...
13. the truck MIGHT still be lower at the rear (depends on cargo, payload and truck springs)
14. don't forget ALL the tires tv/trailer should be properly inflated and the truck LOADED when doing this...
____________________________________
15. take the entire rig to a SCALE and get weights....
16. based on measurements like these (see post #1 in thread below) u may need to tighten the jacks MORE...
____________________________________
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f238...ers-17984.html
__________________________________________
IF FULL TENSION on the spring bars doesn't result in good axle loads or RAISES the trailer tongue much above level..

u might need a longer drop stinger.
__________________________________________

don't worry about FULLY raising the jacks to creat MAX tension on the bars...

they won't break, even if tightened PAST full tension (they just keep flexing)

IF u are leaving "2 holes showing" at the bottom of the jacks,

ideal tension will very likely be at the "2nd mark" +/- a 1/2 inch

so start on a LEVEL SURFACE, MEASURE heights, GET THE TRAILER LEVEL...

after doing all this the truck may still be a tad low in the rear, depending on tongue mass and payload...

hope the steps help, u might wanna print this out.

there are others ways to get to level but this is a methodical approach to the set up...

cheers
2air'

[millvalleyca]

Hi 2air

I was waiting for your response!

I will take the measurements the next time out.
Unfortunately I have the most uneven driveway.

The info on your Cat scale thread is amazing...I'm gonna have to read the whole thread.

Right now I need your gut instinct!

I can't believe you can tell so much from a single picture.....I noticed the back end being lower than the front end when we stopped for lunch today.

Knowing my tow vehicle and trailer should the 6" drop bar be the right size?

I just went outside to look at my hitch and noticed that there are three holes showing at the bottom of the hitch.

The dealer set my hitch up...should I change it to two holes?

Will (should) changing the holes showing and maximizing the tension on the tension bars get me more level?

Boy....it sure is tough being the ultimate newbie.

Thanks again for the info!
Dennis

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by millvalleyca

...Unfortunately I have the most uneven driveway.
Knowing my tow vehicle and trailer should the 6" drop bar be the right size?

I just went outside to look at my hitch and noticed that there are three holes showing at the bottom of the hitch.

The dealer set my hitch up...should I change it to two holes?

Will (should) changing the holes showing and maximizing the tension on the tension bars get me more level?...

yeah driveways are NOT great for this.

that rv slot in your LEFT pic would be a good place or a level parking lot or a diesel filling station...

JUST GUESSING, i suspect 4" is right, but it all depends on tongue mass and how high the truck receiver box is...

these fords vary some based on tire/wheel size, 4x4, off road package and so on...

go back to post 128-140 for a review of the stinger length topic.

"3 holes showing" is the standard setup i think, see pages 15 and 19? in the haha owners manual...

just to be clear we're on the same page about the holes, see the pic lower pics here for 2 holes...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/299428-post63.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/370909-post214.html

and here for 3 holes...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/362490-post202.html

you'll need to ZOOM those pics to see well.

YES, reducing the number of holes showing INCREASES the spring bar tension at a given mark...

think about it, more holes exposed means the jacks are LONGER,

while few holes SHORTENS the jacks.

the point being that once tightened to the 1st or 2nd mark tension will vary,

based on screw jack LENGTH, and this length is based on the 'number of holes' showing...

does that make sense?

3 is fine IF u can get enough tension to raise the trailer to LEVEL and have good wt distribution on the axles.

2 holes increases the tension at each mark.

the manual emphasizes a MINIMUM of 2 holes must be exposed.

what spring bar rating do you have? i'm assuming 1,000 lb bars.

a 4 inch drop should work, but really it depends on all the variables we've covered.

the goals are...
1. get the trailer level as the primary thing.
2. have the truck 'close' to level, but
3. ideally base the truck posture on axle loads and driver feedback at each setting...

if and when u do get some scale readings be sure to post them in the cat scale thread!

Originally Posted by millvalleyca

...I noticed the back end being lower than the front end when we stopped for lunch today...

my interpretation of this is, the TRUCK back was low and the TRUCK front was high?

that's how it looks in your RIGHT picture.

cheers
2air'

[Hensley Ron]

That looks fairly level, but it's hard to tell with a photo. Measure it like the guys say. If it's more than an inch off, you may consider a new hitch bar. Airstream's typically have "B" couplers, so three holes is good. Taking it to two holes won't make much difference in weight distribution and may actually make it more difficult to release all the tension for unhooking, though I've experimented with both and found nothing gained and nothing lost. Of course, My tongue weight is so heavy it's tough to say.

By the way, thanks again for this great thread. I get quite a few orders based on what someone has read here. Nice lookin' rig there, millvalley. I'd love to get my family out to that part of the country. I've seen it all already (Navy brat), but my kids haven't been farther west than Indiana.

God bless.

[millvalleyca]

Thanks for the input guys.

The height of the receiver box is 19 inches at the top. (engine running on level ground)
There are three holes showing.
1000 lb bars.

If I raise the bar so that 2 holes are showing and tighten the tension to the middle line.....it will make a difference? Can it make a big difference in leveling the trailer?

Thanks!

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by millvalleyca

...If I raise the bar so that 2 holes are showing and tighten the tension to the middle line.....it will make a difference? Can it make a big difference in leveling the trailer?...

basically going from 3 to 2 holes SHORTENS the screw jacks ~1 inch.

IF you can get to level and have good axle loads on the tow vehicle with 3 holes showing there is no need to change it.

IF u run out of room/shaft length, tightening the jacks (pulled up past the 1st mark) going to 2 holes may help...

for any given mark on the upper jacks 2 holes will have MORE tension than 3 holes for a given w/d bar rating.

the important things are,

1. get the trailer LEVEL and
2. properly redistribute axle loads on the tv...

Originally Posted by millvalleyca

The height of the receiver box is 19 inches at the top...

at 19.5 for this measurement, on my f-250, the 4 inch drop worked fine.

cheers
2air'

[Sean Woodruff]

The level of the trailer is more a function of hitch bar offset than of spring bar tension.

You could just drop/raise the hitch bar a bolt hole.