Airstream Chat Room Airstream Links Campground & Product Reviews Airstream Classifieds Airstream Articles Blogs Photo Gallery Forum Listings Portal - Home Page

Go Back   Airstream Forums > Airstream Restoration, Repair & Parts Forums > Towing, Tow Vehicles & Hitches > Hitches




Check out our new sister site AirstreamCentral.com. To contribute an article click here.


Quick Links
- Forum Listings
- Register - it's FREE!
- View Member's Map
- Airstream Articles
- "Live" Chat Room
- View Classifieds
- Post a Classified
- Airstream @ eBay
- Upcoming Rallies
   - Add A Rally
- Rally Discussions
- Repair Discussions
- Search Forums
- Member List
- AIR # Directory
- Member Search
- Profile Photos
- Airstream Photo
- Airstream Links
- Fun & Games
- WBCCI Websites
- WBCCI Unit Forums
- Courtesy Parking
- Campgrounds
- Support & FAQs
- Community Policies
- Helpers Needed




Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-30-2008, 01:59 PM   #575
finalcutjoe
4 Rivet Member

finalcutjoe's Avatar
Profile:  2008 30' Classic S/O
dearborn , Michigan
Posts: 266
Images: 10

thanks all...
here goes...

Prompted to increase WD based on CAT numbers only… performance of the rig as a whole is outstanding… frankly, I was very surprised to see such disparity between steer/drive

Full TV gas tank. Tool box in hatch. Full LP tanks (two thirtys). Full fresh water holding. Both OEM batteries.

Steer: 3280
Drive: 4600
Trailer: 7940

1400# bars
‘Burb has ClassV Reese Tow Beast (using reducer sleeve… maybe some play there..)

Tail of TV is just a smidge lower than I’d like… but then again, I’m maxing out the weight rating on the roof rack…
Note: the CAT numbers above do not reflect passengers and cargo
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	rig_scaled.jpg
Views:	25
Size:	513.5 KB
ID:	61399   Click image for larger version

Name:	hitch.street.profile.wide.jpg
Views:	29
Size:	365.7 KB
ID:	61400  

Click image for larger version

Name:	clio_lunchbreak.jpg
Views:	17
Size:	302.6 KB
ID:	61401   Click image for larger version

Name:	clio_lunchbreak_tight.jpg
Views:	16
Size:	372.7 KB
ID:	61402  

finalcutjoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2008, 05:28 PM   #576
Sean Woodruff
3 Rivet Member
Commercial Vendor

Sean Woodruff's Avatar
Profile:  Grand Blanc , Michigan
Posts: 225

Quote:
Originally Posted by GStephens
Is it ever a good idea to use the wrong hole?


This has me sitting here in my office laughing... made the day! Thanks!
__________________
ProPride, Inc.
800-960-4767
www.ProPrideHitch.com



Sean Woodruff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-30-2008, 07:54 PM   #577
2airishuman
Rivet Master

2airishuman's Avatar
Profile: 
Posts: 5,999

Quote:
Originally Posted by finalcutjoe
...here goes...
good pix fc!

the trailer looks pretty level, did u make any measurements at the beltline to confirm?

i agree u need to load the front axle more, did u get axle and tongue weights UNHITCHED?

i towed (as an experiment) with about the same f/r differential for one trip...

the truck steering was too light AND i used up 3-4/32nds more rear tires over 4-5,000 miles.

is that a 4 inch drop bar?

u may need a 6" drop 2 get enough front axle loading (assuming the tongue mass isn't over 1400 lbs, by much )

how was the driving/towing experience with the haha?

cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.johnson

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
2airishuman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2008, 09:02 AM   #578
woodedareas
3 Rivet Member
Profile:  2007 25' Safari FB SE
Lake Forest , Illinois
Posts: 176

Greasing Ball of Hitch With HA Ha

assuming that only one person is available what is the correct procedure to grease the ball of the hitch of the Aistream? The traler jack component sits on top of the ball and it would seem that the that the Ha Ha would have to be sitting on something or perhaps attached to the tow vehicle before separating the the Ha Ha from the trailer. Sounds confusing but hopefully you may understand. I read that the ball should be grease annually.
Thanks
woodedareas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2008, 09:17 AM   #579
Sean Woodruff
3 Rivet Member
Commercial Vendor

Sean Woodruff's Avatar
Profile:  Grand Blanc , Michigan
Posts: 225

Quote:
Originally Posted by woodedareas
assuming that only one person is available what is the correct procedure to grease the ball of the hitch of the Aistream? The traler jack component sits on top of the ball and it would seem that the that the Ha Ha would have to be sitting on something or perhaps attached to the tow vehicle before separating the the Ha Ha from the trailer. Sounds confusing but hopefully you may understand. I read that the ball should be grease annually.
Thanks
While hitched up, raise the trailer off the ball with the tongue jack. Loosen the struts so that they aren't pushing the ball forward in the coupler. The weight of the hitch is supported by the tow vehicle while the tongue jack raises the trailer off the ball.
__________________
ProPride, Inc.
800-960-4767
www.ProPrideHitch.com



Sean Woodruff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2008, 05:18 PM   #580
ROBERT CROSS
"The Frantic Banana"

ROBERT CROSS's Avatar

Profile:  2003 25' Classic
W.N.Y. , "
Posts: 1,454
Images: 41

Thumbs up The Haha Shin-saver

Have you wacked your shins lately?

Found a good use for some old Dog Show, "your not taking my space",cones.

The cones are 15'' high, 8'' square base.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	HAHA%20SHINSAVER%20001.jpg
Views:	13
Size:	73.2 KB
ID:	61557   Click image for larger version

Name:	HAHA%20SHINSAVER%20002.jpg
Views:	13
Size:	96.1 KB
ID:	61558  

Click image for larger version

Name:	HAHA%20SHINSAVER%20003.jpg
Views:	12
Size:	63.9 KB
ID:	61559  
__________________
LOST IN THE SIXTIES







" I'll know where I am when I get there"

Bob,Sandra & "Fado"
2006 3/4 Burb 8.1
Hensley
ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2008, 08:30 AM   #581
Hensley Ron
2 Rivet Member
Commercial Vendor

Hensley Ron's Avatar
Profile:  Currently Looking...
Oxford , Michigan
Posts: 77

And they're orange! Bob, most of consider those creases in our shins badges of honor. It's also a great way to prevent tailgaters.
__________________
Ron Estrada
Hensley Mfg., Inc.
Hensley Ron is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2008, 10:19 PM   #582
grannyred
2 Rivet Member

grannyred's Avatar
Profile:  2002 30' Classic S/O
Currently Looking...
Georgetown , Texas
Posts: 30

Just changed from an Equalizer hitch to the Hensley. There has become a tremendeous change in the reaction of the tow vehicle when the brakes are applied. The trailer is now pushing the rear of the tow vehicle to the right. I never had this sensation while using the Equalizer. I can watch the Hensley hitch during braking by using my backup camera. The hitch rotates to the right (curb side) every time and you can see and feel it pushing the tow vehicle. This may belong in the brake area but since this is a new event that started when I installed the Hensley I put it here.

Has anyone else had this experience? If so, how did you handle it. Need a fix quickly since I am leaving for Bozeman on Sunday. Adjusting brakes tomorrow to see if this makes a difference.

I am using a Hayes Genesis brake controller and almost have the minimum power and maximum power settings maxed out.
grannyred is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2008, 10:37 PM   #583
Garfield
3 Rivet Member

Garfield's Avatar
Profile:  2001 25' Safari
London , Ontario
Posts: 140
Images: 22

Quote:
Originally Posted by grannyred View Post
Just changed from an Equalizer hitch to the Hensley. There has become a tremendeous change in the reaction of the tow vehicle when the brakes are applied. The trailer is now pushing the rear of the tow vehicle to the right. I never had this sensation while using the Equalizer. I can watch the Hensley hitch during braking by using my backup camera. The hitch rotates to the right (curb side) every time and you can see and feel it pushing the tow vehicle. This may belong in the brake area but since this is a new event that started when I installed the Hensley I put it here.

Has anyone else had this experience? If so, how did you handle it. Need a fix quickly since I am leaving for Bozeman on Sunday. Adjusting brakes tomorrow to see if this makes a difference.

I am using a Hayes Genesis brake controller and almost have the minimum power and maximum power settings maxed out.
What you're experiencing is the infamous "Hensley bump". You need to advance the brake controller settings so that the TT brakes engage just ahead of the TV brakes, thereby keeping the Hensley linkage "taut" so it cannot collapse when braking. If your Hayes can't be adjusted to do that, it will have to be replaced.
__________________
Gary & Debbie
2001 Safari 25 SS
2001 Yukon 5.3L 3.73 • Hensley • Jordan Ultima • McKesh
Garfield is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-05-2008, 11:57 PM   #584
2airishuman
Rivet Master

2airishuman's Avatar
Profile: 
Posts: 5,999

Quote:
Originally Posted by grannyred View Post
...Adjusting brakes tomorrow to see if this makes a difference...
hi 'red

yep this is a good place for your question/issue.

as garfield suggests the trailer brakes MUST ENGAGE before the tv brakes...

and the brakes must have sufficient stopping power as well.

really this 'bumping issue' can and does happen with every hitch IF the trailer brakes are slow or inadequate...

but the action/effect is more noticeable on the '4 bar' designs...

it will be interesting for you to 'watch' the linkage with the rear view camera...

but don't over interpret what u see, because even after the brake issue is resolved you might see side2side movement...

for example in really strong crosswinds or when backing into parking slots...

cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.johnson

we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
2airishuman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2008, 07:40 AM   #585
sander17
4 Rivet Member

sander17's Avatar
Profile:  1996 28' Excella
Okemos , Michigan
Posts: 277
Images: 42

Yep, the real fun is going around a downhill curve on the interstate with a crosswind.
In the rear view mirror, you can see the front of the trailer swinging back and forth. A light touch on the manual lever of the brake controller will stop it instantly without slowing you down. Do the Ford integrated brake controllers have this lever on the dash?
__________________
Dave
Okemos, MI
T.V.:'05 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Quad Cab Cummins
AIR#2276
sander17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2008, 07:44 AM   #586
Dwight
4 Rivet Member

Dwight's Avatar
Profile:  1999 34' Excella
Joshua , Texas
Posts: 262

The strut bars are also not adjusted to the same length.
__________________
History doesn't repeat itself, people do!
Dwight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2008, 08:55 AM   #587
REDNAX
Aluminum Vintage Kin
Profile:  Corpus Christi , Texas
Posts: 597
Images: 1

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dwight View Post
The strut bars are also not adjusted to the same length.
This, along with the brake controller, is my thought as well. Worth checking.

I've not ever had the "bump", but I have had to go over the strut adjusters on mine before and after a trailer axle alignment; first time, after installation, second, after alignment (trailer still tracked to one side); third, to really, truly dial it in (a job awaiting me).
__________________
2004 2WD Dodge CTD Ram 2500 longbed 6-spd/3.73; Leer topper; 7,400#; 140,000 miles.
19 city/22 mpg solo (62 mph/1850 rpm)
1983 Silver Streak 3411 Supreme; 7,320# w/ Hensley Arrow (TW: 980#/13%)
http://www.tompatterson.com/Silverst...1983/19831.php
Rig is 15,700#; 15 mpg at 62 mph
REDNAX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2008, 09:40 AM   #588
SRW
3 Rivet Member

SRW's Avatar
Profile:  2008 28' International CCD
Georgetown , Texas
Posts: 139

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff View Post
Dennis,

Once the hitch bar sticks in the hitch box go back to your spring bars to see which one is tightened up. Maybe both. Adjust your jacks until the spring bars are sloppy again and that will adjust the hitch head on the hitch bar. Once they are loose continue to back into the hitch the rest of the way.

Whenever the hitch bar sticks in the hitch head you can always go to your spring bars and you will notice one or both are tight again. That is the hitch bar pushing the inside of the box and making them tight. Just adjust the jacks to make the bars loose again and it will take the pressure off the hitch box and allow you to hitch up. You don't need to continue pulling out and trying to line everything up and then trying to go back in. This is also necessary anytime you adjust the tongue jack when the bar is part of the way in the box. Always adjust the spring bar jacks as the last step anytime you raise or lower the tongue jack.

Another note is that when you get the wedges about 1/2 to 3/4 buried in the opening you can use your over-center-latches to pull the hitch bar back into the box.
Just getting caught up on my reading and just saw this posting.

Last time I was at the dealer the service mgr did "something with one of the spring bars after the hitch bar was mostly in, but not quite. I did not see what he did, but it was quick and loosened up the bar/box so the hitch bar literally popped right in.

Now I know, thanks Sean.

SRW
SRW is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies