the ultimate haha users guide...

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by SRW

Ok, now what?...?

hi srw

page 14 of the haha installation manual covers the zerks...

the installation manual is linked as a pdf file here is post #7.

here is my version...

1. loosen the jacks until they are 'sloppy loose'
2. disconnect 1 spring bar from the jack assembles (pull the spring pins)
3. swing 1 spring bar wide and forward toward the tow vehicle.
4. the spring bar SHOULD slide down and out of the bushing now; if it doesn't continue to step 5/6 while SUPPORTING the spring bar.
5. loosen the 'lock nut' on the grease zerk
6. unscrew the zerk.
7. inspect zerk for wear/damage and test the tip/spring mechanism
8. replace zerk, screw in just far enough that the inner nipple is a few mm inside the bushing.
....a long finger inserted into the bushing will feel inner zerk tip.
9. tighten the lock nut, while holding the zerk stationary.
10. liberally grease the spring bar head and
11. with the spring bar rotated forward insert it into the bushing and push UP
12. rotate the spring bar wide and backward toward the trailer/tongue
13. reconnect to the lower jack extension and replace the spring pin.

basically that's the process

IF the zerk is OVER inserted the spring bar will not fit completely up inside the bushing or will not rotate back.

IF the zerk is UNDER inserted the spring bar will fall out.

look back at the pix around post #90, there is a groove in the spring bar, where the inner zerk tip fits.

this is pretty straight forward. take a look at the diagram on page 14 in the installation manual.

cheers
2air'

[SRW]

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

........this is pretty straight forward. take a look at the diagram on page 14 in the installation manual.

cheers
2air'

2Air:

Can't say how much I appreciate your willingness to help, not to mention that the quality of the information you have provided is outstanding.

I will let you know how it goes.

Thanks,

SRW

[REDNAX]

I have a grease gun that is one-handed for pumping, and that I strongly recommend along with a swivel or two. This makes for much easier work when the second hand has to hold the tip onto the zerk (or, when one is using a needle tip, etc)

NAPA Item#: BK 7151230

I prefer a long fiber grease, and use SCHAEFFERS #268

As to electric drills, the Weatherford, TX A/S dealer told me that they get a full years use out of a RYOBI used and abused daily. I picked up one (18V) with flashlight, charger, case, etc for around $70.

[SRW]

Any thoughts on changing drum brakes to disc?

My 28' International has elec. drum and they can be replaced with hydraulic disc brakes.

Friends have converted theirs and felt the results are worth it.

Also, when making a brake change larger rims could be installed and Michelin tires used.

Not cheap though.

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by SRW

Any thoughts on changing drum brakes to disc?...

please lets not get into the tire size issue in a hitch thread. there is a section JUST on wheels/tires.

the disc breaks work great and are also well covered...

Disc Brakes?...2005 Classic Limited w/Slide

Upgrade to Disc Brakes

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f439...ler-31649.html

Disc vs Drum Brakes?

disc vs drum brakes

so read these or search IN the brake/brake controller sub forums...

and IF you ask a disc brake question in ANY of those theads, i'm sure the replies will roll on in.

NOW on the haha srw....

did you get that ONE zerk changed? was it ground down? got any pictures?

cheer
2air'

[TROPHYJIM2]

Contact with Sean today and all parts and materials are in house , he is in production with the new Hensley Design at this time. I e-mailed him to ask if the Rock Tamers would fit with this new design in that I know others here had to make adjustments with the Arrow to fit with the RTs
Sean called me and indicated he had just spoken with the Enkay folks and is making sure the fit will be correct since he believes many of the users of his new hitch will also be users of the RTs. Weird, but Sean was on the phone with Enkay when he got my e-mail and just had to call me to tell me how strange it was that I had e-mailed him at that exact time about the RT's

Jim

[2airishuman]

but THIS isn't the propride thread either...

HERE it is for now...

a new forum and new hitch and new market approach...

while the design concepts are common, ALL of the bits are different.

once we've got some of the other hitch in hand, USERS will have another thread for the other hitch...

i really don't wanna see THIS thread degraded into bullcrap discussions about theory, cost, comparisons and so on...

imo the VALUE of this thread is that NONE of that nonsense is posted here.

mostly it's about USER TIPS and tricks specific to ONE PRODUCT...

IF we have to wade through other hitches and other topics to find the haha stuff...

well, it might as well become a game thread.

there are 20 other threads on hensleys FULL of arguements and useless sidetracks...

any of those threads would be a wonderful place for NON OWNERS to battle with MAYBE OWNERS...

take a LOOK at the hitch subforum and just throw a dart...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...esc&sort=views

cheers
2air'

[SRW]

Originally Posted by 2airishuman

did you get that ONE zerk changed? was it ground down? got any pictures?

cheer
2air'

2Air:

I did get the nonfunctioning zerk replaced.

Using your direction as a guide, I removed the spring bar.

After I removed the spring bar I could feel that the inside "nib" of the zerk was worn and would no longer depress.

Also, the zerk would not unscrew, hanging up about halfway removed, probably due to the damaged threads.

Score Zerks 14; SRW 7.

I spoke with a Tech at Hensley and screwed a second nut on the zerk's barrel and tightened the two nuts together. Putting the wrench on the inside nut it then unscrewed relatively easily.

Reassembled and regreased, no problem. The spring bar snapped right in with the zerk poking about 3/8" into the spring bar's hole.

Final score Zerks 14; SRW 21.

Thanks for the help.

[2airishuman]

nice pix!

Originally Posted by SRW

...Final score Zerks 14; SRW 21...

alright, we've got a victory here!

good 4 you!

that '2nd nut/lock nut trick is handy and good stuff for the user guide.

i would have probably just grabbed the vice grips, or a hammer!

the zerk has a smallhexed surface that can be used but might not be enough bite, for tough removals.

now you should have easy greasin' ahead...

and don't skimp on the grease!

cheers
2air'

[Rob30044]

Where can I purchase zerk fittings? I know I can get them from Hensley, but I have not been able to find them locally.

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by Rob30044

Where can I purchase zerk fittings? I know I can get them from Hensley, but I have not been able to find them locally.

If you want the complete assembly you'll have to get them from the haha company.

If you want to make your own you can buy a spring plunger and a grease zerk from someplace like www.McMaster.com

[REDNAX]

The "spares" package from Hensley is a good idea, as is a dedicated box for all tools and supplies and copies of information to be kept in one place. I bought new tools for the trailer to be able to keep them all in one place (those tools that are used often). The hitch deserves no less, and makes any work simple and quick.

[Rob30044]

Originally Posted by REDNAX

The "spares" package from Hensley is a good idea,

I went to the Hensley website and noticed they sell a Hensley Arrow Emergency Kit, but no description as to what's in the kit.

[Sean Woodruff]

Originally Posted by Rob30044

I went to the Hensley website and noticed they sell a Hensley Arrow Emergency Kit, but no description as to what's in the kit.

It contains a couple strut clevis pins, jack clevis pins, shear bolts, a jack collar and a grease fitting.