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Old 01-31-2015, 04:23 PM   #29
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Had a new PP installed yesterday on my '15 Classic. I did about 25,000 miles on the PP on my '12 28' Intl CCD (new owner bought the PP with the trailer). I really hope that somebody will come up with the "what happened" on this. I'm sure Sean is just as anxious to figure the cause as all the rest of us PP owners!
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Old 01-31-2015, 06:21 PM   #30
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These hitch types are most likely to be damaged in crossing ditches, high RR tracks, etc, where TV and TT are each in a different plane. The longer the drop on the stinger, the more likely it is what takes the most damage.
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Old 02-06-2015, 08:43 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Ok. Here's the difference between "under" and "through". If you go back to my picture - that shows chains UNDER the ProPride entirely. It's really critical for you to remember whether you had them in that position - or THROUGH the bars which, if you look at my picture would mean you brought the chains backwards (to the left side of the picture) to go under then over the weight distribution bars and forward (to the right of the picture) to the tow vehicle.

Can you remember exactly how the chains were connected to the tow vehicle? It takes an awful lot of force to twist a 2" (or in my case, a 2.5") steel "brick" like the ProPride stinger. If your safety chains were wired around the weight distribution bars, that would apply an enormous amount of pressure to the stinger it's not expected to see (with safety chains under the head as described in the user manual).
The only way for the chains to go under the ProPride entirely is to drop them through the bars. They connect to the tongue such that if they drop straight down from the point at which they connect, they end up between the bars. I then run them under the bars and under the entire head to the TV.
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Old 02-06-2015, 08:52 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Gratz View Post
Jeff, while you're visiting the trailer --

How much vertical offset is there between the stinger and the part of the adjustable drawbar assembly which inserts into the receiver?

THE MINIMUM AMOUNT PERMITTED BY THE BOLTED CONNECTION.

A couple side view photos and a top view photo of the drawbar assembly might be informative.
A close-up front view photo of the front end of the bar which inserts into the receiver, also showing the front edges of the two side plates of the adjustable drawbar also would be good (could provide a measure of the degree of twist).
Also a close-up shot of the portion of the stinger where the paint is flaked off.

I'LL TRY TO POST PHOTOS, BUT NEED TO RELY UPON MY IT PERSON (DW) TO BE ABLE TO DO SO.

Is there any evidence of distortion of the square cross section of the receiver opening?

NO

Is there any evidence of drawbar or WD bar paint on the chain links?
Or any other evidence of contact between chain and drawbar or chain and WD bar?

NO

Is there any evidence of slippage of the yoke frame bracket?

I DON'T KNOW. I DON'T THINK SO BUT I DIDN'T FLY SPECK IT WHEN I WAS AT THE TRAILER LAST WEEKEND.

Is there any evidence of roll-axis contact between the flange of the ball coupler and ball shank or the upper rear portion of the hitch?

I DON'T KNOW. SEE IMMEDIATELY ABOVE.

Based on what we know so far, it's hard to imagine what would have caused the twist you've described.

I'M BEGINNING TO AGREE THAT IF IT HAPPENED DURING USE, OTHER DAMAGE OR MOVEMENT OF THE YOKE WOULD BE EVIDENT.

Ron
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Old 02-10-2015, 05:04 PM   #33
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I've just purchase a 2012 Intl. 19 Airstream. Watching the thread as I'm pondering buying a Hensley or a PP.
Not clear, has PP offered to replace the unit for you at no cost? This is important in my decision - which company gives best customer support.

I know a Hensley or PP is overkill for a 19, but we had a Hensley years back on a 22 Airstream and found it well worth the cost.

PP was not available then - have to decide which is best - at this moment I'm leaning to the Hensley Swift Cub.
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Old 02-10-2015, 05:20 PM   #34
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Why should Sean offer to replace it? It does not sound like a product defect, although we do not know what did cause the problem. Something out-of-the-ordinary happened to deform that steel.
Larry
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Old 02-10-2015, 05:31 PM   #35
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It's still unclear how this bar twisted. No photo of it posted. I don't see it as a customer service issue unless there was a manufacturing fault in this particular unit, and there is no indication there was.
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Old 02-10-2015, 06:20 PM   #36
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I think in post 32 above the OP agrees (in a response to Ron G) that the damage may have happened while not in use since there isn't any other damage noticed anywhere. I'd still love to see some pics. Hard to know exactly what happened here.
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Old 02-10-2015, 06:38 PM   #37
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I had a bar twist when either the hitch pin fractured or the key lock on the hitch pin failed. The pin was lost somewhere between Santa Fe and Roswell.

I had towed about 200 miles on fairly straight road with no inkling of anything being wrong when I pulled into a WalMart in Roswell and had to make an emergency turning stop when a car cut me off. The stinger had apparently partially pulled out of the receiver with no pin and the trailer rear-ended me with a terrible crash.

The bar that inserts into the receiver was slightly bent and slightly twisted at the point where it was weakened by the hole for the hitch pin. It pulled out of the receiver with no problem, but the hole was distorted enough that a hitch pin could not be inserted.

I replaced that part of the stinger and found that I have maybe a 1 degree curve to the assembled stinger. It curves just enough to see with the eye when looking down from above. I have towed several thousand miles since and the very slight curve is not causing me any problem. I just returned from a 2000 miles trip to Tuscon and the PP still works fine.

It did distort the 2" reducing sleeve for my class 5 hitch to the point that it can not be removed by hand. That is just extra insurance that I won't lose the sleeve if I forget to insert the pin.
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:28 PM   #38
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Well my good friend and retired professional mechanical engineer calculated 2900 lbs-ft of torque to permanently twist a 2" square mild steel bar 6" between the support and the applied moment.

So if we have a twist in a 2" square hitch draw bar, we know we are looking for a crazy big bunch of torque.

David
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Old 02-10-2015, 08:36 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tao View Post
I've just purchase a 2012 Intl. 19 Airstream. Watching the thread as I'm pondering buying a Hensley or a PP.
Not clear, has PP offered to replace the unit for you at no cost? This is important in my decision - which company gives best customer support.

I know a Hensley or PP is overkill for a 19, but we had a Hensley years back on a 22 Airstream and found it well worth the cost.

PP was not available then - have to decide which is best - at this moment I'm leaning to the Hensley Swift Cub.
I guess you will have to call Hensley and get your answer.
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