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Old 01-30-2015, 06:31 PM   #15
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I remember that thread. the bent hitch bar was the result of the safety chains being routed above the spring bar. I thought then, as I do now, that the chain would have broken prior to the hitch bar bending 45 degrees.

Brian
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Old 01-30-2015, 06:44 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by moosetags View Post
I remember that thread. the bent hitch bar was the result of the safety chains being routed above the spring bar. I thought then, as I do now, that the chain would have broken prior to the hitch bar bending 45 degrees.



Brian

Brian - not sure if these are the same chains but according to this article, http://www.etrailer.com/question-21549.html this pair of safety chains had a 17 ton break point. I'm guessing that kind of pressure (via chains over the WD bars) could twist a 2" stinger before breaking the chains.

Note: Like Bill Belichick - I wouldn't say I'm the Mona Lisa Vito of trailer chains... :-)
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Old 01-30-2015, 08:26 PM   #17
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I don't know of a positive conclusion of what bent that earlier bar, but I think many of us believe it was from jackknifing the trailer when backing into a camp site.

As Ron questioned, is this one a twisted bar or a bent bar?
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Old 01-30-2015, 08:33 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Yes to running the chains through the bars? That would be problematic and possibly the cause of the twist of the stinger. Let's make sure we're talking about the same thing. Please see my picture below. This is how the safety chains should be connected to your TV - they are NOT running through the bars. Did you run your chains a little backward first and then THROUGH the bars or did you run them under the bars as in the photo?

Attachment 231409
We may be getting somewhere, but I'm confused about "through" and "under" the bars. I drop the chains between the bars to the ground, then run them under the bars to the TV. I think they look like your photo, but I'm not sure.
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Old 01-30-2015, 08:37 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Ron Gratz View Post
Is your stinger bent to the TV's right like the one shown in the photo below --
or is it twisted about its longitudinal axis as a drive shaft might be if too much torque was applied?

The thread in which this photo was posted is: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ml#post1377674

Ron


Ron:

The stinger is not bent as in your photo, but twisted along the longitudinal axis of that portion of the stinger that is inside the TV receiver.

Jeff
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Old 01-30-2015, 09:14 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Tintini View Post
We may be getting somewhere, but I'm confused about "through" and "under" the bars. I drop the chains between the bars to the ground, then run them under the bars to the TV. I think they look like your photo, but I'm not sure.

Ok. Here's the difference between "under" and "through". If you go back to my picture - that shows chains UNDER the ProPride entirely. It's really critical for you to remember whether you had them in that position - or THROUGH the bars which, if you look at my picture would mean you brought the chains backwards (to the left side of the picture) to go under then over the weight distribution bars and forward (to the right of the picture) to the tow vehicle.

Can you remember exactly how the chains were connected to the tow vehicle? It takes an awful lot of force to twist a 2" (or in my case, a 2.5") steel "brick" like the ProPride stinger. If your safety chains were wired around the weight distribution bars, that would apply an enormous amount of pressure to the stinger it's not expected to see (with safety chains under the head as described in the user manual).
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Old 01-30-2015, 09:24 PM   #21
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Here's page 22 in the user manual section on hitching up. Notice step 9 in particular. Routing the chains UNDER the head is critical. Between the bars applies all kinds of torque to the stinger in any turn.

Hitching and Unhitching

Step 1: Chock your trailer tires.
Hitching


Step 2: Back your tow vehicle slowly toward the front of the Main Hitch Unit until you are about 2” from the hitch.


Step 3: Adjust the tongue jack until the hitch bar is approximately centered in the 3”x3” hitch box opening.


Step 4: Back slowly into the Main Hitch Unit inserting your Hitch Bar Hitch End into the hitch box. When the wedges are seated in the hitch box you will have approximately 1/8” of the wedge showing out of the front of the hitch.


Step 5: Latch the Over-Center-Latch (OCL) on to the Hitch Bar Tab on each side. Use the OCL Wrench included with the hitch (15/16” Socket and Breaker Bar).


Step 6: Insert the 7/16” Lynch Pin in the Hitch Bar Tab and snap the wring down over the tab on each side.


Step 7: Raise the Weight Distribution Jack with the 3/4” Ratchet Wrench included with the hitch. Raise the Jack on each side until you either lift the trailer off of the tongue jack or you raise it to your desired ride.


Step 8: Raise the tongue jack.


Step 9: IMPORTANT – IMPORTANT – IMPORTANT – Route your tow chains UNDER the Main Hitch Unit and BETWEEN where the Spring Bars insert in the bottom of the Main Hitch Unit. When you are straight in line with your trailer the chains are the longest they ever need to be. When routed properly they should hang about 1” from the bottom of the Main Hitch Unit.


Step 10: Route your electrical connection over the top of the Main Hitch Unit and plug it into the vehicle.


Step 11: Hook up your emergency brake cable.


ProPride, Inc. Page 22
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Old 01-30-2015, 09:37 PM   #22
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It seems like it would take a lot to twist that receiver bar, maybe if somebody run into the drop bar portion while parked or if it was accidentally backed against a big rock. Might be a good idea to check your truck hitch attachment points for damage, bending or cracked welds.
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Old 01-31-2015, 07:44 AM   #23
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I have difficulty believing that draw bar was bent in use, but the vehicle's receiver hitch was undamaged. Forget about the 2" square steel, the joining plates are 1/2" thick, and the heaviest material typically in a receiver is 1/4".

Not saying it didn't happen, just saying I have a hard time believing it.
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Old 01-31-2015, 09:17 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Ok. Here's the difference between "under" and "through". If you go back to my picture - that shows chains UNDER the ProPride entirely. It's really critical for you to remember whether you had them in that position - or THROUGH the bars which, if you look at my picture would mean you brought the chains backwards (to the left side of the picture) to go under then over the weight distribution bars and forward (to the right of the picture) to the tow vehicle.

Can you remember exactly how the chains were connected to the tow vehicle? It takes an awful lot of force to twist a 2" (or in my case, a 2.5") steel "brick" like the ProPride stinger. If your safety chains were wired around the weight distribution bars, that would apply an enormous amount of pressure to the stinger it's not expected to see (with safety chains under the head as described in the user manual).
The link in Ron Gratz' post contains a photo with a comment by Sean approving how the chains are run in that photo. I do the same thing. I'm going to the trailer this weekend so I'll double check.
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Old 01-31-2015, 10:15 AM   #25
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The link in Ron Gratz' post contains a photo with a comment by Sean approving how the chains are run in that photo. I do the same thing. I'm going to the trailer this weekend so I'll double check.

Yes - that's also my photo in that thread with my setup. The point is - the chains go underneath the head and in between the weight distribution bars.
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Old 01-31-2015, 10:54 AM   #26
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Twisted PP Stinger


Name:   ImageUploadedByAirstream Forums1422723228.629931.jpg
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Here is a photo ...not mine....but from the web...note the chains also crossed over


Sent from my iPad using Airstream Forums
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Old 01-31-2015, 11:48 AM   #27
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Hard to imagine that 2" chunk of steel twisting before something else breaks or bends - have you checked the integrity of the hitch attachment or can you see just from looking at the stinger that it is actually twisted longitudinally?

Is it possible that due to the bolted connection of the Pro Pride stinger compared to the welded construction of the Hensley that the bolts/side plates have distorted and not the 2" bar itself?

As for how it happened, is it possible you could have been in a situation whereby one vehicle - either tow vehicle or trailer - was on level ground while the other vehicle was somehow on a steep side to side slope?

Brian.
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Old 01-31-2015, 01:23 PM   #28
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---I'm going to the trailer this weekend so I'll double check.
Jeff, while you're visiting the trailer --

How much vertical offset is there between the stinger and the part of the adjustable drawbar assembly which inserts into the receiver?

A couple side view photos and a top view photo of the drawbar assembly might be informative.
A close-up front view photo of the front end of the bar which inserts into the receiver, also showing the front edges of the two side plates of the adjustable drawbar also would be good (could provide a measure of the degree of twist).
Also a close-up shot of the portion of the stinger where the paint is flaked off.

Is there any evidence of distortion of the square cross section of the receiver opening?

Is there any evidence of drawbar or WD bar paint on the chain links?
Or any other evidence of contact between chain and drawbar or chain and WD bar?

Is there any evidence of slippage of the yoke frame bracket?

Is there any evidence of roll-axis contact between the flange of the ball coupler and ball shank or the upper rear portion of the hitch?

Based on what we know so far, it's hard to imagine what would have caused the twist you've described.

Ron
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