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Old 04-16-2009, 09:35 AM   #1
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trouble configuring Drawtite WD hitch on Yukon

I spent a couple hours trying to get my WD (trunnion bar style) hitch set on my 2000 Yukon XL. I adjusted & readjusted a number of times and cannot seem to get it correct. The distribution of load seems to be correct for the TV: height from ground to top of wheel-well at front is same height as when uncoupled and rear height dropping only ~3/8". However, the trailer is riding high on the hitch. My measuring is far from exact, but it seems to be 1-1/2" higher at the front than the back (over 27', lenght of the trailer). I even lowered the ball on the hitch by 1-1/2" after removing some of the washers to pivot the head assembly and increase the angle (and then reducing the number of links in the lift unit/spring bar to the minimum of #5). Now I'm at the minimum height of the ball as recommended in the instructions. Any ideas? I'm attaching the instructions from drawtite in case someone *sees* something! Thanks in advance for any suggestions..
Laura

Oh - I'm wondering if the Yukon XL SLE has self-leveling shocks that are throwing a wrench to the whole thing ... ??? This is a new, used truck that I got about 3 weeks ago - without any true info on the stabilizing system itself. But - the brake warning indicators are no longer lighting!!!!
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File Type: pdf drawtite WD hitch.pdf (187.9 KB, 128 views)
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:04 AM   #2
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Completely disregard the instructions when it comes to ball height. You want the trailer to ride level after the setup and if the limit of the instruction don't let you get to that point change the shank to a dropped shank that will let you accomplish this. Airstream axles do not have any compensation mechanism between the axles as most RV do so riding level, not the instructions, is the governing factor.

If you get a dropped shank, when you attempt to adjust the hitch I would suggest you try and get a little drop to the front axle to improve sway control. Since you are dealing with small measurements on the fender wells try placing some masking tape on the fenders and drawing a line on the tape as a reference.

Also I would suggest you take the suggested number of links of chain with a grain o salt also. You are more interested in getting the trailer level and reasonable weight distribution than complying to suggestions.

And yes it can take hours to set a trailer up properly. You are working with several variables that interact and unless you are lucky yo will not hit it on the first shot.
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:11 AM   #3
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Thank you HowieE!!!! I hate disregarding instructions - but I was ready to! I have also noticed, on occasion, that my braking is a bit *off* and immediately wondered if it had to do with the unequal distribution of weight on the trailer axles due to this height issue ... I'll reconfig before towing south this weekend.
Laura
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:12 AM   #4
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Howie is correct that you likely need a drop shank. The instruction pdf you included with your post shows the shank inverted incase you need a higher ball but it can be inverted to lower the hitch head and the ball on the shank also. If the shank doesn't have enough drop you need to buy one that does. We had to replace the shank on our Equalizer for the same reason when we switched from towing with a Cherokee to towing with a Dodge Ram 4X4.
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Old 04-16-2009, 10:21 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Motoman View Post
Howie is correct that you likely need a drop shank. The instruction pdf you included with your post shows the shank inverted incase you need a higher ball but it can be inverted to lower the hitch head and the ball on the shank also. If the shank doesn't have enough drop you need to buy one that does. We had to replace the shank on our Equalizer for the same reason when we switched from towing with a Cherokee to towing with a Dodge Ram 4X4.
It is already inverted - and can move the ball down one more position. Maybe this will get me where I need to be. One thing - the hitch bar is now pretty low and will likely *catch* on anything that isn't level (like a curb or ditch). Guess I will be removing the beast/hitch when I 'm not towing. This thing is heavy and bulky.

Thanks again for your help with this matter - it was driving me nuts trying to adjust/readjust and maintain the specs in the instructions.
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