I would recommend either the Reese of the Eq. They are both good. You will see some guys lambaste either of them; but generally they didn't understand how to set them up right. Either hitch setup properly does a good job.
One other thing for you to consider is the tandem axle vs. single axle issue. In general, more axles is better. You might look at an older Globe Trotter or low 20's foot length Airstream with dual axles. The older ones weighed less, and it's nice to have another axle if you have a tire blow out.
Hello
New forum member with my first Airstream, a 25' 1992 excella. I have a stock 2006 Ford F250 XLT 4x4. My truck has always had a very stiff ride, not comfortable on less than smooth freeways. My new to me Airstream came with a Reese straight line trunnion style dist kit and a friction style damper. I have only towed the trailer once, but my truck seemed to have a slightly softer ride with the trailer. Is there anything I should consider for my trucks suspension that would improve the ride when towing the trailer? I have Andy I have just started reading some of your posts, thanks for your contributions
Hello
New forum member with my first Airstream, a 25' 1992 excella. I have a stock 2006 Ford F250 XLT 4x4. My truck has always had a very stiff ride, not comfortable on less than smooth freeways. My new to me Airstream came with a Reese straight line trunnion style dist kit and a friction style damper. I have only towed the trailer once, but my truck seemed to have a slightly softer ride with the trailer. Is there anything I should consider for my trucks suspension that would improve the ride when towing the trailer? I have Andy I have just started reading some of your posts, thanks for your contributions
Can you soften the rear springs at all on your tow vehicle?
What rating Reese hitch are you using?
Also, you could add the Reese torsion sway control, instead of using the friction type.
Welcome to Airstreaming and all it's fun and trials.
Can you soften the rear springs at all on your tow vehicle?
What rating Reese hitch are you using?
Also, you could add the Reese torsion sway control, instead of using the friction type.
Welcome to Airstreaming and all it's fun and trials.
Andy
I can check the Reese tomorrow. I know I can adjust the front shocks, not sure about adjusting the back with out modification, I should have checked that before I posted. I know the previous owner had a 3/4 ton diesel pickup and probably towed 50,000 miles. My guess it is 800#. I have seen some trucks with something that looks like a couple of rubber donuts between the top of the leaf springs and the frame, maybe something like this: Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Kits, AirLift Super Duty Air Springs, Air Suspension, Leaf Springs | Truckspring.com. I had no problem with sidesway, but my truck has always rode like a hardtail Harley.
I can check the Reese tomorrow. I know I can adjust the front shocks, not sure about adjusting the back with out modification, I should have checked that before I posted. I know the previous owner had a 3/4 ton diesel pickup and probably towed 50,000 miles. My guess it is 800#. I have seen some trucks with something that looks like a couple of rubber donuts between the top of the leaf springs and the frame, maybe something like this: Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Kits, AirLift Super Duty Air Springs, Air Suspension, Leaf Springs | Truckspring.com. I had no problem with sidesway, but my truck has always rode like a hardtail Harley.
I was in a similar situation ten years ago with my K1500 Chevrolet -- AirLifts, Air Shocks, or rubber rebound donuts won't soften the ride and will likely stiffen it. At the time, I was told that I had two options by a local suspension specialty shop -- have my existing springs modified (remove leaves) or have new lower rated springs installed. Since I wasn't happy with that truck, I traded it in on a new Suburban ordered to my specifications which solved my towing problems.
I would think that the easiest method to improve the ride of your F250 4X4 could be improved for both you and your trailer by having a competent suspension specialty shop either modify you current springs by removing a leaf from each side or by installing new springs with a lower rating.
Good luck in resolving your towing issue.
Kevin
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1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban (7400 VORTEC/4.11 Differentials)
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre/1975 Cadillac Eldorado Convertible (8.2 Liter V8/2.70 Final Drive)
I had a 2005 F-250 PSD with similar situation. Too firm ride without the Airstream and slightly softer ride with the Airstream. The rear suspension of that era F-250 was made to carry a load on the rear axle, either towing or a load in the bed. For the 2008 model, Ford did a complete ground up re-design. They included a softer first spring that makes the newer generation F-250 ride more like a half ton truck when it is not carrying a load on the rear. Because of a bad back injury from 20 years ago, I traded trucks to get a softer ride for my daily commute.
I could be wrong, but I don't think you would want to soften the front suspension because that might make steering too squishy when towing. I'm a firm believer in contacting the hitch manufacturer for advise or take the truck and trailer to a hitch specialty shop that deals in the brand you have and get them to tweak your set up. Most likely it was set up for the truck the previous owner had and just needs adjusting for your truck. I don't think you necessarily need a new hitch system or a new truck either.
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Hi all,
Lightning knocked out our FIOS early Saturday morning (after 17 years in Florida, I'm still not used to THAT part of the storms), so I haven't been able to follow-up on my query.
Thanks to all (Jim and Andy, SteveH and Minnie's Mate - you're all wonderful resources) for the good information concerning a hitch/sway control set up for our FJ cruiser. I know that there are going to be issues based upon the short wheel-base of the FJ, so I will continue to study and read all I can before making a decision on which set up to use (Hopefully, I'll get it right the first time!).
As for a different TV - our FJ is a limited production, one of 3200 made, and we have a special affinity for it. It's a great suv, and I really want to figure out how to get a 19' Bambi on the back as the Casita's just aren't my bag of chips...
Karl
Last edited by dog_tired; 06-08-2009 at 10:11 AM.
Reason: adding thanks
Not trying to disuade you here, but have you looked at the 16 and 17' Airsteams? I understand they may not be what you want, but with the FJ it would be a lot more "doable" in my opinion.
Steve,
We have and they just seem so darn cramped on the inside with very little storage. I'm thinking that we're going to have to take another trip to the dealer and look at the smaller units, however...It might be the safest combination based upon our TV.
...We have an FJ Cruiser, SE TRD edition with a tow rating of 5000. We are looking at a 19' Bambi and I'm just curious: with that rig, what would be the best hitch and tow set up? I'd love to get a new TV and a 23 footer, but the FJ TRD (only 3200 made) is what we'll be using.
We have and they just seem so darn cramped on the inside with very little storage. I'm thinking that we're going to have to take another trip to the dealer and look at the smaller units, however...It might be the safest combination based upon our TV....
I understand your desire to tow with your FJ but I would look very hard at the other specifications for your SUV. You only mentioned the tow capacity as 5,000 pounds but that is only one part of your equation.
I took a quick gander at the Toyota website and saw a couple things that you may also consider:
1. FJ GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) is 5570 pounds.
2. FJ Curb Weight is 4290 pounds
3. Different btwn 1. & 2. above is 1290 pounds. From this amount you must subtract fuel, passengers and cargo.
4. Fuel with 19 gallon tank is 123 pounds
5. I'll assume just two adults with baggage of 400 pounds.
6. Tongue weight without options and LP gas weight is 570 pounds
As you can see you'll have to be very careful not to exceed your FJ's GVWR.
Just something else to consider in your decisions.
Got back from my maiden voyage. I stopped at a les schwab and had the tires balanced, bearings and brakes checked. I was dragging my hitch on some steepish curb cuts. On the way back I stopped at the south Weed, CA exit and weighed at a CAT scale (thanks 2airishuman for the tip). I think my first weigh I must have not been on the scale right because it had my rear axle at 7000 pounds. I raised the reese bars (800#) one link and had 4120 pounds on both truck axles and 5340 on the trailer axles. After raising a link I didn't notice dragging except at a place where I saw grooves on the pavement where everybody else was. This was with a full fuel tank and half full grey and low black and water tanks. I got 10.2mpg in the hills and only 10.8 in the flats traveling around 60-65mph. I would think I should be getting better than that. Maybe a tune up. Will a K&N filter help? Here is a video of some weather we encountered. YouTube - StarMarie1000's Channel
Thanks to everyone for the help.
Jeff
Edit: I just read Your thoughts . I did not weigh each AS axle separately, I only weighed the combined weight of both AS axles. Oh well, maybe next time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by intrepida
I can check the Reese tomorrow. I know I can adjust the front shocks, not sure about adjusting the back with out modification, I should have checked that before I posted. I know the previous owner had a 3/4 ton diesel pickup and probably towed 50,000 miles. My guess it is 800#. I have seen some trucks with something that looks like a couple of rubber donuts between the top of the leaf springs and the frame, maybe something like this: Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Kits, AirLift Super Duty Air Springs, Air Suspension, Leaf Springs | Truckspring.com. I had no problem with sidesway, but my truck has always rode like a hardtail Harley.
Thanks Andy, I appreciate the info. Everytime I read folks that say you must have a 3/4 or 1 T to tow, I think back to the early photos and see all the Chevrolets from pre 1955 and their 6 cylinder motors. They were on long carvans, not driving 300 miles.
Everytime I read folks that say you must have a 3/4 or 1 T to tow, I think back to the early photos and see all the Chevrolets from pre 1955 and their 6 cylinder motors. They were on long carvans, not driving 300 miles.
We all like to enjoy the nostalgia, and that's why the '40s vintage Airstream pipe frame trailers are so popular. We also tend to forget all of the failures that those car/trailer combos had... broken frames, broken hitches, blowouts, engine failures... and that was with trailers that weighed a mere 2500 lbs. Today's trailers typically tip over twice that; even the 16-19' trailers are pushing 4k lbs. And today's tow vehicles are much more comfortable... and competent.
I've towed trailers with a 93" wheelbase Jeep on a bare ball in the '80s. I also towed a Scamp 13 with a Dodge Omni. I didn't know you weren't supposed to, and ignorance is bliss... and I did it for a long time and lived to tell about it. But I'm older and wiser now, and I'd never do it again, nor would I recommend it to anyone else.
Frankly, a 3/4 ton truck or van is the ideal tow vehicle for any of these trailers 25' or longer. Sorry you may think otherwise, but experience is a harsh teacher.
Roger
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