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Old 06-05-2009, 03:22 PM   #101
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Roger, The tires are only XL (Extra Load) rated passenger tires. Max pressure with them is 44 pounds, but I only inflate them that much when I pull the trailer, and then only in the rear, 35 in the front. The spec air pressure is 30 front and rear. Even with only 30 pounds, they ride very firm.

I don't believe this size tire is made in even "D" load rating. (275/55 20)
I am familiar with P rated XL tires and use them on our 23'. They work great with 36lbs of air.

On our car (TV) we are using 215/55/17 ultra high performance tires (they do not have a XL designation). Normal pressure of 33lbs. When towing I go to 35lbs in the front and 37lbs in the rear. This is a very stable combination.

I'm thinking at 44lbs in the rear there is too much pressure and the tire is bowing at the bottom. Maybe too much in the front too?? The trailer only adds 150 to 200lbs of weight to each tire when the WDH is set up right so really the tires should not need that much more air when towing.

Suggest experimenting with less air. See what difference it makes.
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Old 06-05-2009, 03:45 PM   #102
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1 plane or 2?

To Rednax's post:

Does trailer sway occur in one plane or two?

I was thinking it was only in one plane; what I'll call Yaw.
But, if it's actually a combination of two planes (like I'm now thinking maybe it is), then it's a combination of yaw and roll.

Side area would really only matter as far as "sail area" to catch wind for the side perturbation. But we could easily rig up a travel trailer for this test.

Actually, I would NOT use an Airstream if I were doing this test. I'd use a white box (preferably a disposable one as we might destroy it) because it would be more affected by wind than a streamlined trailer.

But that being said, it might actually be cheaper to buy a used TT than a utility trailer for the test. Get an older 30' or so Holiday Rambler or something similar. Something with a heavy enough frame to stand up to the testing without disentigrating (assuming we don't wreck it). You could also mount the movable weights up high so as to amplify the effects of CG.

Heck, I'd go ahead and make the CG higher than any rational person would ever be likely to get. Stack the deck against us so that the results are magnified from what a proper operator should encounter.

Guys, we just might be onto something here. This could be done for not a super ludicrous amount of money.
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Old 06-05-2009, 03:46 PM   #103
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I am familiar with P rated XL tires and use them on our 23'. They work great with 36lbs of air.

On our car (TV) we are using 215/55/17 ultra high performance tires (they do not have a XL designation). Normal pressure of 33lbs. When towing I go to 35lbs in the front and 37lbs in the rear. This is a very stable combination.

I'm thinking at 44lbs in the rear there is too much pressure and the tire is bowing at the bottom. Maybe too much in the front too?? The trailer only adds 150 to 200lbs of weight to each tire when the WDH is set up right so really the tires should not need that much more air when towing.

Suggest experimenting with less air. See what difference it makes.
Thanks, but I've run them at 30 & 35, 35 & 35, and 35 & 40, and the higher pressure works better. We had no issues last year with the 23' and the Curt hitch with a friction sway control, but the 25' we have now is not as stable. I think it's just because it is about 1600 more pounds.
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Old 06-05-2009, 03:49 PM   #104
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Thanks, but I've run them at 30 & 35, 35 & 35, and 35 & 40, and the higher pressure works better. We had no issues last year with the 23' and the Curt hitch with a friction sway control, but the 25' we have now is not as stable. I think it's just because it is about 1600 more pounds.
Ok Steve. You have been there and done it.
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Old 06-05-2009, 03:50 PM   #105
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I think it's just because it is about 1600 more pounds.
It's all about sidewall stiffness. If your sidewalls wallow when loaded, so does the tow vehicle.

Roger
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Old 06-05-2009, 05:58 PM   #106
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The tires are rated at 2403 lbs each (4806 per axle), the truck rated for 3950 on the rear axle, and it weighs 3500 on the rear axle loaded with trailer in tow.

The numbers tell me it should be OK, and it is really, but who wouldn't want more stability, and more power. Like the C&W song...."I ain't never had too much fun!"
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Old 06-05-2009, 09:16 PM   #107
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guys and gals,
I've been the typical "lurker" for about a month while my wife and I are exploring the purchase of an AS. I usually spend hours and hours reading through sites and soak up as much as I can before making this decision.

We have an FJ Cruiser, SE TRD edition with a tow rating of 5000. We are looking at a 19' Bambi and I'm just curious: with that rig, what would be the best hitch and tow set up? I'd love to get a new TV and a 23 footer, but the FJ TRD (only 3200 made) is what we'll be using.

I really appreciate all of the discussion on tow vehicles and hitch set ups, but I just can't seem to find any consensus on what type of anti-sway and rig set up to get...I want to be safe and we're thinking about a long first trip from Florida to Wyoming and Montana...

Thanks in advance for any suggestions (and please don't flame me...I've really read and searched nearly every post on this great site.)

Cheers...

Karl
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Old 06-06-2009, 02:44 AM   #108
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Good question, Karl, but you probably won't find a consensus. Any of the major brand anti-sway hitches will work for you. My experience has been with the Reese Dual Cam, and that would be my recommendation for a lot of reasons. Properly set up, it will meet you needs nicely. Recognize that towing with a short-wheelbase vehicle like the FJ Cruiser is certainly do-able, but presents it's own set of challenges. When things go wrong, they go wrong much more quickly and are much harder to respond to and correct. You'll really need to stay on your toes...

Have a great time!

Roger
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Old 06-06-2009, 03:54 AM   #109
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guys and gals,
I've been the typical "lurker" for about a month while my wife and I are exploring the purchase of an AS. I usually spend hours and hours reading through sites and soak up as much as I can before making this decision.

We have an FJ Cruiser, SE TRD edition with a tow rating of 5000. We are looking at a 19' Bambi and I'm just curious: with that rig, what would be the best hitch and tow set up? I'd love to get a new TV and a 23 footer, but the FJ TRD (only 3200 made) is what we'll be using.

I really appreciate all of the discussion on tow vehicles and hitch set ups, but I just can't seem to find any consensus on what type of anti-sway and rig set up to get...I want to be safe and we're thinking about a long first trip from Florida to Wyoming and Montana...

Thanks in advance for any suggestions (and please don't flame me...I've really read and searched nearly every post on this great site.)

Cheers...

Karl
Karl,

While I have no first hand experience towing with the FJ, I've seen people doing it and talked with them. The folks I talked with were towing a vintage Bambi (16 foot), and they weigh about 2000 pounds. They were towing without a WD hitch.

However a modern 19' will amost double that weight (about 3800 dry), and I know they are considerably bigger...not just the 3 foot additional length, but wider and taller also than the vintage Bambi.

My first thought would be a Hensly or ProPride, but then there's the additional weight issue, and you are going to be close to the limit already when you get packed and loaded.

This is just my opinion, and I'm going to stick my neck out here, but I think I would go with a ROUND BAR Reese, equipped with the optional dual cam sway control, with an ADDITIONAL friction sway control.

I know you will get lots of arm chair quarterbacking on this, but my reasons for this hitch selection are: 1. It is resonably light weight. 2.The round bars will ride quite a bit smoother than the standard Reese trunion bars, and 3. The combination of the dual cams and the additional friction sway control should handle the sway issues nicely.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Edit: and one more thing....if you decide to go with any type of Reese with the dual cams, pay special attention to the proper setup, and even more especially, the adjustment of the cams. The down side of the newer Reese system is it is technically difficult, and you must be persistant to get it adjusted corectly. And, if the cams are not adjusted correctly, the anti sway system just does not work well.
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Old 06-06-2009, 05:54 AM   #110
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With such a short wheelbase, I would do whatever you can to position the hitch ball as close to the rear bumper as possible.

I drilled a new hole in the hitch shank after shoving it as far as possible into the receiver. If you shorten the distance from the ball to the rear axle by two inches, you effectively lengthen your wheelbase by four inches.
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Old 06-06-2009, 06:09 AM   #111
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Anyone ever use this rese hitch? High Performance Reese SC Weight Distribution System, 600 lbs. TW / 10,000 lbs. GTW 66152 : Trailer hitch bike rack and trailer hitches - etrailer.com

Seems to incorporate a friction system like the Equal-I-zer hitch. Do you suppose Reese has decided there is a better way than the dual cams??????
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Old 06-06-2009, 10:41 AM   #112
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Karl, ANY manufacturer of a WD hitch with anti-sway will do the job. There is a greater propensity for shorter Airstreams to sway just because they are lighter than the big rigs, and IIRC, the 19' is a single axle. I wouldn't be concerned so much about the brand as much as getting a knowledgeable installer to set it up correctly. One of our wise sage members recommended that you go to a horse trailer dealer for the set up. They are used to dealing with dynamic loads and precious cargo (ever notice the bond between a teenage girl and her horse?). They can get you set up properly. Also, they can advise you on the proper hitch system for your tow vehicle and Airstream. So if you are buying locally enough that you can buy the trailer and tow it carefully to a horse trailer dealer then do so. Or get the horse trailer dealer to recommend a hitch, have it installed by the Airstream dealer and take it to the horse trailer dealer for fine tuning. Essentially, that is what I did and got terrific results. But, my trailer is different and my tow vehicle is totally different from what you are looking at. After trading tow vehicles I took my rig back to the horse trailer dealer and had him re-fine tune it for the new truck and it tows divinely.

Also, before spending the big bucks for the HA or Pro-pride, both of which are excellent hitches, BTW, you might consider putting that money toward upgrading your tow vehicle if you really have your heart set on a 23 footer. Just a thought.
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Old 06-06-2009, 11:21 AM   #113
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Karl,

The smart man learns from his mistakes, but the wise man learns from the mistakes of others. I think you are in the wise man camp

A Hensley Arrow or the Pro Pride would be the best. But they are very expensive.

A Reese Dual Cam is a good hitch and you can get one for 1/4 the money. I used to use one and liked it well enough.

I'm a big fan of the Equal-I-Zer and use one of those now.

Here is the link to the thread I did a couple years ago about setting up an Eq. Set up properly, the hitch performs very well.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...tml#post421226


I would recommend either the Reese of the Eq. They are both good. You will see some guys lambaste either of them; but generally they didn't understand how to set them up right. Either hitch setup properly does a good job.

One other thing for you to consider is the tandem axle vs. single axle issue. In general, more axles is better. You might look at an older Globe Trotter or low 20's foot length Airstream with dual axles. The older ones weighed less, and it's nice to have another axle if you have a tire blow out.

See ya on the road!
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Old 06-06-2009, 09:08 PM   #114
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Hello
New forum member with my first Airstream, a 25' 1992 excella. I have a stock 2006 Ford F250 XLT 4x4. My truck has always had a very stiff ride, not comfortable on less than smooth freeways. My new to me Airstream came with a Reese straight line trunnion style dist kit and a friction style damper. I have only towed the trailer once, but my truck seemed to have a slightly softer ride with the trailer. Is there anything I should consider for my trucks suspension that would improve the ride when towing the trailer? I have Andy I have just started reading some of your posts, thanks for your contributions
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Old 06-06-2009, 09:19 PM   #115
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Hello
New forum member with my first Airstream, a 25' 1992 excella. I have a stock 2006 Ford F250 XLT 4x4. My truck has always had a very stiff ride, not comfortable on less than smooth freeways. My new to me Airstream came with a Reese straight line trunnion style dist kit and a friction style damper. I have only towed the trailer once, but my truck seemed to have a slightly softer ride with the trailer. Is there anything I should consider for my trucks suspension that would improve the ride when towing the trailer? I have Andy I have just started reading some of your posts, thanks for your contributions
Can you soften the rear springs at all on your tow vehicle?

What rating Reese hitch are you using?

Also, you could add the Reese torsion sway control, instead of using the friction type.

Welcome to Airstreaming and all it's fun and trials.

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Old 06-06-2009, 10:46 PM   #116
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Can you soften the rear springs at all on your tow vehicle?

What rating Reese hitch are you using?

Also, you could add the Reese torsion sway control, instead of using the friction type.

Welcome to Airstreaming and all it's fun and trials.

Andy
I can check the Reese tomorrow. I know I can adjust the front shocks, not sure about adjusting the back with out modification, I should have checked that before I posted. I know the previous owner had a 3/4 ton diesel pickup and probably towed 50,000 miles. My guess it is 800#. I have seen some trucks with something that looks like a couple of rubber donuts between the top of the leaf springs and the frame, maybe something like this: Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Kits, AirLift Super Duty Air Springs, Air Suspension, Leaf Springs | Truckspring.com. I had no problem with sidesway, but my truck has always rode like a hardtail Harley.
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Old 06-06-2009, 11:53 PM   #117
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Greetings intrepida!

Quote:
Originally Posted by intrepida View Post
I can check the Reese tomorrow. I know I can adjust the front shocks, not sure about adjusting the back with out modification, I should have checked that before I posted. I know the previous owner had a 3/4 ton diesel pickup and probably towed 50,000 miles. My guess it is 800#. I have seen some trucks with something that looks like a couple of rubber donuts between the top of the leaf springs and the frame, maybe something like this: Air Lift LoadLifter 5000 Kits, AirLift Super Duty Air Springs, Air Suspension, Leaf Springs | Truckspring.com. I had no problem with sidesway, but my truck has always rode like a hardtail Harley.
I was in a similar situation ten years ago with my K1500 Chevrolet -- AirLifts, Air Shocks, or rubber rebound donuts won't soften the ride and will likely stiffen it. At the time, I was told that I had two options by a local suspension specialty shop -- have my existing springs modified (remove leaves) or have new lower rated springs installed. Since I wasn't happy with that truck, I traded it in on a new Suburban ordered to my specifications which solved my towing problems.

I would think that the easiest method to improve the ride of your F250 4X4 could be improved for both you and your trailer by having a competent suspension specialty shop either modify you current springs by removing a leaf from each side or by installing new springs with a lower rating.

Good luck in resolving your towing issue.

Kevin
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Old 06-07-2009, 01:23 PM   #118
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I had a 2005 F-250 PSD with similar situation. Too firm ride without the Airstream and slightly softer ride with the Airstream. The rear suspension of that era F-250 was made to carry a load on the rear axle, either towing or a load in the bed. For the 2008 model, Ford did a complete ground up re-design. They included a softer first spring that makes the newer generation F-250 ride more like a half ton truck when it is not carrying a load on the rear. Because of a bad back injury from 20 years ago, I traded trucks to get a softer ride for my daily commute.

I could be wrong, but I don't think you would want to soften the front suspension because that might make steering too squishy when towing. I'm a firm believer in contacting the hitch manufacturer for advise or take the truck and trailer to a hitch specialty shop that deals in the brand you have and get them to tweak your set up. Most likely it was set up for the truck the previous owner had and just needs adjusting for your truck. I don't think you necessarily need a new hitch system or a new truck either.
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:04 AM   #119
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Hi all,
Lightning knocked out our FIOS early Saturday morning (after 17 years in Florida, I'm still not used to THAT part of the storms), so I haven't been able to follow-up on my query.
Thanks to all (Jim and Andy, SteveH and Minnie's Mate - you're all wonderful resources) for the good information concerning a hitch/sway control set up for our FJ cruiser. I know that there are going to be issues based upon the short wheel-base of the FJ, so I will continue to study and read all I can before making a decision on which set up to use (Hopefully, I'll get it right the first time!).

As for a different TV - our FJ is a limited production, one of 3200 made, and we have a special affinity for it. It's a great suv, and I really want to figure out how to get a 19' Bambi on the back as the Casita's just aren't my bag of chips...

Karl
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:10 AM   #120
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Karl,

Not trying to disuade you here, but have you looked at the 16 and 17' Airsteams? I understand they may not be what you want, but with the FJ it would be a lot more "doable" in my opinion.
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