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Old 06-03-2009, 01:08 AM   #29
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Well, I'm a hitch manufacturer...

Security? NOT ONE has ever been reported as stolen.

You lost me as a reader with that paragraph. While I'm sure there is some good information, how can I rely on it with any certainty when you clearly don't know anything about what you write in this paragraph?

I applaud you for the attempt to get more information out to the towing community even with its limited scope and obvious lack of some facts. I challenge you to get your contacts (maybe the Reese Strait-Line guys?) with other hitch companies to participate in the testing to put all of the conjecture to rest.
Come to California and see what is stolen.

Even highway guard rails, and municipal underground wiring is hot stuff to the thieves.

There will "always" be the conjecture. That's what sells newspapers and magazines too.

Others have shared opinions, as I have, along with tons of experience. I know of no formula for experience, or mathematical equations.

Nothing satisfies everyone, not even money, let alone hitches.

Andy
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Old 06-03-2009, 01:11 AM   #30
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Love my Equal-i-zer.

Hi, what does the theft of a Hensley Arrow, in storage, have to do with loss of control? I would like to see an up to date test of hitches as Sean suggests.
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Old 06-03-2009, 01:51 AM   #31
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"Road shock to the trailer? No more than any other hitch. The "road shock" doesn't come from the hitch, it comes through the tires."

Thanks, Sean,

I've long held this same view - the WD hitch is merely a mechanical connection between the TV and the Trailer - any 'road' shock, by definition, would have to come from the road - through the tires and suspension of the TV and trailer!

If there were to be excessive road shock coming from the TV, the WD hitch would of course transfer some of that movement to the trailer - not be the 'cause' of the shock!
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Old 06-03-2009, 02:01 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
The data was not one time, but from over 1,000 (one thousand) loss of control accidents, over about a 7 year period of time.
Wow, that's about 12 accidents a month, or roughly 4 every week! That's a lot of accidents. I don't know how big the entire insured group was, but that seems like a LOT of accidents.

I agree that eliminating what may be one of the best hitches because it may get stolen or may cause wear and tear seems based more on personal opinion than fact. I can't afford one, but their design seems sound and makes sense. If we're talking strictly about what makes the safest ride, I don't see why they wouldn't be recommended.
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Old 06-03-2009, 02:11 AM   #33
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Wow, that's about 12 accidents a month, or roughly 4 every week! That's a lot of accidents. I don't know how big the entire insured group was, but that seems like a LOT of accidents.

I agree that eliminating what may be one of the best hitches because it may get stolen or may cause wear and tear seems based more on personal opinion than fact. I can't afford one, but their design seems sound and makes sense. If we're talking strictly about what makes the safest ride, I don't see why they wouldn't be recommended.
Steph.

In the late 60's and early 70's, Airstreaming was a way of "big" life.

Your right, all to many loss of control accidents did happen.

The old insurance division of Airstream, called Caravanner Insurance, had probably the vast majority of the trailers insured, because of it's very low rate, and it's excellent service to it's insureds.

Why Airstream let it die, is anyones guess.

Andy
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Old 06-03-2009, 05:46 AM   #34
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Question Still looking for answer.

As I stated earlier. I have the Easy lift round bar 1000# system. The company's tech data recommends 1000# SB's for my 30 2009 C L: TW 690,40#GB,s TV 2500 HD Tur 6.7, we carry est 400-500#'s in the bed(mega cab) Q? assuming my system is adequate. How many links in the
SB chains should I attempt to lock. 3rd or 4th. The unit is level regardless of links. However I need bottle jack assistance at the 4th link level.(also have sway friction assist) Should I only use the Tr jack to assist in attaching the B's woppa4 PS. maybe two links would be suffice.
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Old 06-03-2009, 06:37 AM   #35
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One more time Andy....previously in a hitch thread you advised me to use 600 pound Reese bars with my 800 pound hitch weight trailer towed with my tow package equipped 1/2 ton truck, and now in your "Hitch Myths" article, you say a properly equipped 1/2 ton truck towing a trailer with an 800 pound tongue weight should use 750 to 800 pound bars.

I have bought a new set of 600 pound bars and sold the 800 pound bars based on your say-so in the previous thread. Should I now sell the 600 pound bars and buy new 800 pound bars based on your statements in your "Hitch Myths" article?

I am concerned about what appears to be excessive bend in the bars when I put enough pressure on the bars to level the trailer and put at least some additional weight on the front axle of the tow vehicle. How many accidents does your data show were caused by bars breaking?

Just want to get it "right", but it seems your recommendations keep changing?
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Old 06-03-2009, 08:18 AM   #36
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Sean,

That is a really nice looking hitch you make. I remember reading about it some time ago. What could be better than an arrow...it's replacement.

Maybe some day, but too expensive for me right now.


take care,
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Old 06-03-2009, 08:37 AM   #37
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One more time Andy....previously in a hitch thread you advised me to use 600 pound Reese bars with my 800 pound hitch weight trailer towed with my tow package equipped 1/2 ton truck, and now in your "Hitch Myths" article, you say a properly equipped 1/2 ton truck towing a trailer with an 800 pound tongue weight should use 750 to 800 pound bars.

I have bought a new set of 600 pound bars and sold the 800 pound bars based on your say-so in the previous thread. Should I now sell the 600 pound bars and buy new 800 pound bars based on your statements in your "Hitch Myths" article?

I am concerned about what appears to be excessive bend in the bars when I put enough pressure on the bars to level the trailer and put at least some additional weight on the front axle of the tow vehicle. How many accidents does your data show were caused by bars breaking?

Just want to get it "right", but it seems your recommendations keep changing?
Hitch torsion bars must bend in order to do their intended job.

Reese bars as an example are tested to bend 5 inches without taking a set. Normally, a good operational bend for Reese bars is 2 to 3 inches, when using their cam/saddle sway control.

Your 600 pound bars are fine.

Andy
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Old 06-03-2009, 08:45 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Hitch torsion bars must bend in order to do their intended job.

Reese bars as an example are tested to bend 5 inches without taking a set. Normally, a good operational bend for Reese bars is 2 to 3 inches, when using their cam/saddle sway control.

Your 600 pound bars are fine.

Andy
OK, so now it is your recommendation to use 600 pound bars with a "properly equipped 1/2 to pickup" and 800 pound tongue weight? Seems your "recommendations" are sometimes contraditory?

Also about my other question...."How many accidents does your data show were caused by bars breaking?"

With your years of experience, does your data ever show that this happens? And, if so, what was the result? And, if it did happen, to what extent were those bars "overloaded" acording to Reese factory specs?
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Old 06-03-2009, 09:01 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Come to California and see what is stolen.
CA is the second or third largest state for quantity of orange hitches. Over 3000 of them. Not one has been reported as stolen.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Steph.

In the late 60's and early 70's, Airstreaming was a way of "big" life.

Your right, all to many loss of control accidents did happen.

The old insurance division of Airstream, called Caravanner Insurance, had probably the vast majority of the trailers insured, because of it's very low rate, and it's excellent service to it's insureds.

Why Airstream let it die, is anyones guess.

Andy
Insurance companies can't stay in business paying accident claims at the rate you report. I'm sure that had something to do with Airstream letting it die.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimGolden View Post
Sean,

That is a really nice looking hitch you make. I remember reading about it some time ago. What could be better than an arrow...it's replacement.

Maybe some day, but too expensive for me right now.


take care,
Thanks, Jim.
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Old 06-03-2009, 09:18 AM   #40
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OK, so now it is your recommendation to use 600 pound bars with a "properly equipped 1/2 to pickup" and 800 pound tongue weight? Seems your "recommendations" are sometimes contraditory?

Also about my other question...."How many accidents does your data show were caused by bars breaking?"

With your years of experience, does your data ever show that this happens? And, if so, what was the result? And, if it did happen, to what extent were those bars "overloaded" acording to Reese factory specs?

Bars breakingt? Never.

Chain link breaking from the end of the bar, several.

Andy
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Old 06-03-2009, 09:21 AM   #41
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Insurance companies can't stay in business paying accident claims at the rate you report. I'm sure that had something to do with Airstream letting it die.



Thanks, Jim.
Caravanner Insurance had a national underwriter.

Andy
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Old 06-03-2009, 09:43 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Hitch torsion bars must bend in order to do their intended job.

Reese bars as an example are tested to bend 5 inches without taking a set. Normally, a good operational bend for Reese bars is 2 to 3 inches, when using their cam/saddle sway control.

Your 600 pound bars are fine.

Andy
Andy
With my fully loaded Classic 31 and loaded truck My 1200 lb Reese dual cam bars have about 2 inched of bend in them.

Trailer max weight 10,000 lbs, truck max weight 10,000 lbs. Both usually around 9,000 when towing.
You are saying I should back off to say 800lbs?. I expect I would break them.
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