Towing myths

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Guido

By reading his post!

Which post? The one after mine? Or another one?

I do not have the time to read every post ever made.

I still put in 40 to 50 hours per week at the office, and more at home.

Mind reading has never been one of my skills.

Andy

[wiegabr]

If concerned about trailer damage and you want to measure shock & vibration, there is a device that will do it. I do not know the cost. See Package motion tracking: records time, date, force, and direction of impact for different types of measuring devices.

[markdoane]

Now that would provide some useful and objective data, rather than just how many teacups fell of the counter top.

Someone (can't recall who) had one and started to do a 'before and after' as part of an axle replacement. Wish I could find that thread.

You could also put a tape recorder back there and glue a cowbell to the countertop, then play the tape back at high speed.

I wonder if anyone on the forums has any experience with audiometric monitoring. Like someone who served in the Air Force?

[richinny]

i sure hope it isn't as loud as a plane in there.

maybe one of our techies can call them?

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[HiHoAgRV]

Originally Posted by markdoane

Now that would provide some useful and objective data, rather than just how many teacups fell of the counter top.

Someone (can't recall who) had one and started to do a 'before and after' as part of an axle replacement. Wish I could find that thread...

How about this?
Epiphany Gets new Axles
The chart is in post #167. I have noticed that the new suspension works better when the trailer is loaded. No real improvement from the old setup when it's empty.
Add a full tank of water and some stuff and the suspension flexes as it should.

[finalcutjoe]

Originally Posted by markdoane

Now that would provide some useful and objective data, rather than just how many teacups fell of the counter top.

Someone (can't recall who) had one and started to do a 'before and after' as part of an axle replacement. Wish I could find that thread.

You could also put a tape recorder back there and glue a cowbell to the countertop, then play the tape back at high speed.

I wonder if anyone on the forums has any experience with audiometric monitoring. Like someone who served in the Air Force?

...teacups... what a wiseacre... he he

I remember riding in my parents '76 sovereign... it was bouncy and LOUD... mostly all the metal pots and pans banging around...

[Airhouse]

Andy & Roger; Thanks to both of you guys, I'm still wondering witch bars, 1000 or 600 to use. Roger--do you get any flex with your 1000# bars pulling the 34ft limited? I want to believe Andy has the right idea, but the 600#s sure do look light. My 3/4 ford van is a R/V van and sprung heavy due it's equipment inside. I've pulled a 29ft a/s with it and have enough motor, 5.4, and 373 gears. Just want to get the hitch system RIGHT !!!! Woooo is me. What to do. Anyway thanks for this forum. lots of info to help us newbee get into the data and try to become better R/Vers. Thanks Bud

[centennialman]

Andy.......thanks, Very Much for answering my question. I do appreciate everything you do for all of us here on the forums!

Steve

[Mikethefixit]

Airhouse
I had a hitch that came with my AS, it was a Reese with 1000 lb bars. As you can see (lower left) I have a heavy truck. When the wife and I brought the AS home we didn't have our hitch. I have towed I think about every size trailer for 12 ft to 53ft and 45 yrs over the road in a big rig. I wasn't scared of NUFFIN. But the rebound of those 1000 lb bars liked too wrecked us. Whats worse I hadnt payed for it(the AS). PO insisted we take it home. That was the last trip for the 1000's. My hitch of choise is an old Reese Straightline,with 600 lb bars and 6 links in the chains under stress.
We get a Lincoln ride out of that big O-4door crewcab and we enjoy the ride. I have experimented with different chain settings but always come back to the 6 links under stress . I have a radio cabinet inside the door that I leave cd's on top of and in 400 miles they are still there.
Oh bye the way I sold the hitch with the 1000 lbs bars, the guys says its perfect on a box-car trailer.
Good luck with your search.
Roger

[Airhouse]

Mikethefixit Thanks Roger, for your input. It is now the final word reguired to make a believer in that what Andy,the Guru, has been trying to drum into us that you don't need to make an solid IRON-BAR connection between TT & TV. I got it!!! It's got to flex so you can control it, not have it control you. I'm convinced that with my stiff sprung TV with a long wheelbase the 600#s will work great. Glad I went ahead and bought them to use as it will make that 2000 mile trip better and safer. Again I must thank You, Andy, and all the other inputs that make this Forums a great place to find info needed to share our experiences. It's the best.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by Airhouse

Mikethefixit Thanks Roger, for your input. It is now the final word reguired to make a believer in that what Andy,the Guru, has been trying to drum into us that you don't need to make an solid IRON-BAR connection between TT & TV. I got it!!! It's got to flex so you can control it, not have it control you. I'm convinced that with my stiff sprung TV with a long wheelbase the 600#s will work great. Glad I went ahead and bought them to use as it will make that 2000 mile trip better and safer. Again I must thank You, Andy, and all the other inputs that make this Forums a great place to find info needed to share our experiences. It's the best.

When you return from your trip, make a post here and let others know the results you experienced.

Andy

[REDNAX]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Now how in the world, could I know that you removed the overload springs.
Andy

I didn't get decent weight transfer on mine for what I think are several reasons, the thick overload springs on my 3/4T Dodge among them. My thought has been to remove that spring from the pack (and maybe a spacer or two), re-align the front end and add a Timbren Aeon hollow rubber overload spring (replaces the bump stop) for those times I am not towing a travel trailer and need the OEM capacity.

That, along with an aftermarket anti-roll bar (and maybe fabbing a panhard rod) would make for a better-riding, more stable rear platform that would allow proper weight transfer.

Experimentation can get addictive . . like MarkDoane talking about using panhard rods on a beam axled trailer, hmmmmm.

[Ganaraska]

Originally Posted by REDNAX

I didn't get decent weight transfer on mine for what I think are several reasons, the thick overload springs on my 3/4T Dodge among them. My thought has been to remove that spring from the pack (and maybe a spacer or two), re-align the front end and add a Timbren Aeon hollow rubber overload spring (replaces the bump stop) for those times I am not towing a travel trailer and need the OEM capacity.

That, along with an aftermarket anti-roll bar (and maybe fabbing a panhard rod) would make for a better-riding, more stable rear platform that would allow proper weight transfer.

Experimentation can get addictive . . like MarkDoane talking about using panhard rods on a beam axled trailer, hmmmmm.

You might consult a local spring shop. Tell them your springs are too stiff and what you want to accomplish. They have probably run into this problem before and know just how to solve it.

[grtwhthuntr]

Andy, You may not be getting quite the response you expected but I for one am glad as you have gotten folks to at least to look and try to understand their setup. Thank-you.

Rednax,
Your trailer should not have enough hitch weight to engage your overload spring unless your packing the bed w/ alot of stuff. I have timbrens installed on my 2500 dodge for another appl. besides the A/S. They work but once your riding on them, it is like riding on the bump stops. They are awfully stiff. The company is however, very nice and accommadating to work with.