as a newbie to weight distribution hitches it took a while for me to understand what the ball tilt has to do with anything. the answer to me was that the angle of the ball doesn't "do" anything. the ball tilt indicates the head angle which alters the angle that the bars start to transfer the weight up front. if the bars start tensioning too close to the trailer, they will run out of room to travel before being fully loaded.
i think the logic is that it is better to have a fully tensioned 600 lb. bar than a slightly tensioned 1000 lb. bar.
i think that's right. please tell me if it's not right.
Until someone has taken the time and effort, as well as the expense, to offer a better "rule of thumb" than I have posted, then in all fairness, I must respectfully stay with my offers and suggestions.
As of this time, I am not aware of anyone offering a "better method," but several have offered "I am wrong" suggestions and statements.
It's all to easy to tell someone that what they have published is wrong, but the same people have not offered anything better.
I strive to be helpful, but if someone disagrees, so be it.
But again, I am "wide open" to a better rule of thumb, and not just an opinion.
Thanks to all that are pleased that have made the changes.
If someone chooses to submit what they have is great and why, then so be it, too.
Andy
I’m not so much saying “you’re wrong” as I am questioning the prioritization of critical hitching/towing factors. (Kriminee, starting to sound like a politician)
I understand what you’re getting at- but there’s no way anyone’s going to convince me to totally disregard the GCWR/tow capacities of a vehicle-- and I would submit that proper weight distribution is more important than a potentially ‘too-rigid’ hitch connection.
I’m not so much saying “you’re wrong” as I am questioning the prioritization of critical hitching/towing factors. (Kriminee, starting to sound like a politician)
I understand what you’re getting at- but there’s no way anyone’s going to convince me to totally disregard the GCWR/tow capacities of a vehicle-- and I would submit that proper weight distribution is more important than a potentially ‘too-rigid’ hitch connection.
<Joe suiting up for imminent CanAm flaming>
The way Andy explained it to me is, the WD system has to be sufficient to transfer the required weight to the front axle, while allowing a certain amount of flexing of the WD system. If it's too rigid, you might damage your trailer. If it's too soft, you might not be able to transfer enough weight to the front axle.
That said, truck capacities have blurred to the point there can be no more "If the trailer is this long, and weighs this much, tow it with this vehicle using this capacity weight bars" way of thinking. There are now half ton trucks with more towing capacity than some 3/4 ton trucks, and almost all of them have more towing capacity then anything from, say, 30 years ago. But, as towing capacities have gone up, so have trailer weights. Your 30' trailer probably outweighs our 31' by at least a ton, which further blurs the old "cut and dried" way of thinking.
Unfortunately, there is no table for WD system fitment, because it would take an Algebra major to figure them out. The best rule of thumb would probably be to hitch up, go to the scales, make sure you can transfer the proper amount of weight to the front axle, and the WD will allow a couple of inches of movement if you step on the ball coupler of the hitch. If it won't move, it's too stiff, if it moves a lot, it's probably too soft.
Andy I've got to go two thousand miles to pick up a 34ft 1991 limited and return it home. I tow with a Ford 3/4 ton converted van and have the older Duel/Cam Reese system. The van is very heavy sprung in back, 7 leafs, The TT had 1000# bars with it and after reading the treads on Myths and the Duel/cam I've got a pair of 600# bars to take out and use. A'm I headed in the right direction?
Andy I've got to go two thousand miles to pick up a 34ft 1991 limited and return it home. I tow with a Ford 3/4 ton converted van and have the older Duel/Cam Reese system. The van is very heavy sprung in back, 7 leafs, The TT had 1000# bars with it and after reading the treads on Myths and the Duel/cam I've got a pair of 600# bars to take out and use. A'm I headed in the right direction?
Yes, but when you get back home, you might consider removing the overload spring on the van.
Your 2000 mile trip will be a good indicator.
When you first hook up, jump up and down on the coupler.
If it moves vertically a couple of inches, your ok. If not, that tells you the van suspension should be softened.
Airhouse, I towed our '94 tri-axle Limited with an Excursion. The tongue weight on your trailer is flirting at something over 900 lbs. I had 1,000 lb bars on my Dual-Cam and wouldn't have wanted anything less. In your case, you're got a trailer that is pushing 9,000 lbs loaded, and 1,000 lb bars are appropriate. Granted, our Excursion was sprung lighter than the 3/4 ton Superdutys though. I'd consider having the van re-sprung a little lighter as well.
If you were going for a 19' to 25' trailer, you might have wanted the 600 lb bars, but you're not going to hurt a 34' tri-axle with 1,000 lb bars. You'll need them that stiff to transfer the tongue weight. I tow our Bigfoot (5300 lbs dry, pushing 6k loaded) using 800 lb bars, and I wouldn't want anything lighter for it with out Titan.
Roger
__________________ AIR 2053 “A generation which ignores history has no past and no future.” Robert Heinlein 1994 Airstream B190 & 2006 Bigfoot 25B25RQ
Total tow vehicle weight, from your numbers is 8040 pounds.
The rear axle weight should not be more than 10 percent greater of that weight greater than the front axle, or 804 pounds.
Your weights show 1080 difference.
Try moving a little more weight to the front axle.
Andy
Hello Andy,
I was thinking about your comments of moving more weight to the front axle. I didnt disconnect when weighed the combo but Im sure the truck does not weigh in 8040lbs. The problem with these S/O's is the heavy tongue weight and 300lb cargo capacity when all tanks are full.
I would think that you wouldnt want to load any more weight to the front wheels as there are a very capable set of duals ready for a few more pounds. If you move another 800 lbs to the front then you are also moving more weight to the trailer and in my case this could be a problem. This is why i settled on the weights i have. The picture doesnt show it but the bed of the truck had all the heavy gear like firewood, coolers filled with ice and drinks, heavy bottle jack, tools etc.
In 1800 miles there were no issues with the trailer. The interior handled it well. Remember I installed the lighter 600lb bars and they were really flexed like I was going to snap them. I do understand the lighter bars on the lighter trailers but this one seems to be an exception to your rule.
I will continue to monitor for any damage caused by my setup.
To me, a dually is intended to pull the Queen Mary, not an Airstream, as it already is far out heavy duty.
But that's my personal opinion.
I think a dually presents entirely different sets of parameters, that I am not familiar with.
Sorry, I cannot offer any other hitch tips for you.
Andy
Andy,
Have you ever actually driven a truck like mine? Its not a dump truck or a uhaul its a crewcab with a longbed behind it. With the overload springs removed it just glides down the highway. The long wheel base makes it very stable. Not once was I affected by the many trucks that passed by this week on my 1800 mile journey. Aside from backing and parking in tight spaces this is a very good combination for a long heavy trailer. Now I dont know what parameters your talking about but I dont fear that its going to do anymore damage to my airstream than any other vehicle it has to be towed by. You would have to get behind the wheel of this combination to appreciate that its not really the dumptruck you think it is. In the old days a One-Ton truck was a stiff rattling beast of a machine for hauling just about anything and hardly seeing the thing squat down when loaded. That might be the Queen Mary that you refer to.
I recently had the belly pan down a bit in the front area of my trailer and got a chance to see the frame set up that they used on these early S/O's. In my opinion its way overbuilt for the task compared with other trailers its size. That gives me a good feeling for the long haul with this unit. I think sometimes we worry too much about these trailers. They are very well built and designed to be around for a long time. If I pop a rivet i will replace it. Afterall.. its and Airstream! Thats why we bought it
Have you ever actually driven a truck like mine? Its not a dump truck or a uhaul its a crewcab with a longbed behind it. With the overload springs removed it just glides down the highway. The long wheel base makes it very stable. Not once was I affected by the many trucks that passed by this week on my 1800 mile journey. Aside from backing and parking in tight spaces this is a very good combination for a long heavy trailer. Now I dont know what parameters your talking about but I dont fear that its going to do anymore damage to my airstream than any other vehicle it has to be towed by. You would have to get behind the wheel of this combination to appreciate that its not really the dumptruck you think it is. In the old days a One-Ton truck was a stiff rattling beast of a machine for hauling just about anything and hardly seeing the thing squat down when loaded. That might be the Queen Mary that you refer to.
I recently had the belly pan down a bit in the front area of my trailer and got a chance to see the frame set up that they used on these early S/O's. In my opinion its way overbuilt for the task compared with other trailers its size. That gives me a good feeling for the long haul with this unit. I think sometimes we worry too much about these trailers. They are very well built and designed to be around for a long time. If I pop a rivet i will replace it. Afterall.. its and Airstream! Thats why we bought it
Now how in the world, could I know that you removed the overload springs.
Thanks Andy, I appreciate the info. Everytime I read folks that say you must have a 3/4 or 1 T to tow, I think back to the early photos and see all the Chevrolets from pre 1955 and their 6 cylinder motors. They were on long carvans, not driving 300 miles.
I remember vacations in the late 50s and early 60s with a family of 5 in a 1957 Ford sedan, 6 cylinder 3 speed standard transmission. Later a 1962 Ford full size sedan, also 6 cylinder 3 speed. Towing a 17 foot trailer.
I also remember cruising at 45 MPH and slowing to 35 or less on hills. Occasionally gearing down to 2nd on the steep hills.
If you got up to 50 with that rig you were burning up the roads.
In those days other travelers did not seem to mind. We would pull over and let other traffic pass once in a while.
Drivers did not pull up right behind you and tailgate at 70 MPH like they do today.
There was about 1/10 the traffic on the roads you see today.
Transport trucks were as slow as our rig. They had 150HP engines not 800HP. No transports blasting past at 85 MPH when you are doing 60. More like us following them up hill at 30.
It's a different world. What worked then won't work so well today. It's pretty impressive that the 50s and 60s Airstreams are so well designed and well built they will handle today's road conditions with just a change of tires and brakes.
__________________
Living in the trailer park of sense, looking out the window at a tornado of stupidity.
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