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Old 11-04-2014, 06:56 PM   #15
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1973 27' Overlander
'Possum Holler , Georgia
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More tunnel vision. I wound up replacing a good portion of the positive wire from the tongue jack/break-away back to the 7-way. That wire was very corroded. The copper wire was almost completely black for several feet. This indicates corrosion or overheating. No obvious signs of over heating. Meant dropping the belly pan. Nuts. See the difference between the old and the new? The new being in the center of the three?
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Old 11-04-2014, 07:08 PM   #16
Got gandkids?
 
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1973 27' Overlander
'Possum Holler , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,406
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And then this is the "Doh!" moment. Did all that work and no "humming at the wheels" when I pulled the break-away chord. Then I ran across idroba's post. So here we go sports fans, the proper way to test your break-away switch is......

Have at least one of the wheels off the ground. Disconnect the Airstream from the TV. You do not want the umbilical connected as this may fry the brake controller in the TV. Also, don't have it sitting on the ball of the TV, may give you a false ground reading. Disconnect from shore power. Now, pull the chord to the break-away. Go try and spin one of the wheels. Wheel should lock up within less than one turn. Now go have a beer and stick yer chest out knowing you're smarter than ol' Jim.

Problem solved.

Jim
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