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Old 03-13-2008, 08:39 PM   #15
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Some of the posts are obviously referencing a different type of hitch set-up than the original post.
The nut refered to is recessed, surrounded on 5 sides. You cannot get any type of socket that I've ever seen on the nut. That is why some of us have used a large screwdriver/prybar to jam the nut while tightening the ball. It's not that we don't know what a socket is.
Just for clarification....
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Old 03-14-2008, 05:27 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old_Town
This is the socket I used. My Equalizer is a 2006 vintage. I can't speak for the older ones. The Craftsman socket in the link below fit and worked perfectly. I borrowed, from a friend a Proto 3/4" drive torque wrench for the job. I noticed that my local Tractor Supply had the socket for $19. I prefer the Craftsman.

Craftsman 1-7/8 in. Socket, 12 pt. - Model 47787 at Sears.com

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Old 03-14-2008, 06:32 AM   #17
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I just looked at mine and the nut is totally recessed as the original post mentions also. The nut I see is 1 7/8" as the Equalizer website states. As Minnie Mate mentioned earlier and in the link he provided, Equalizer sells the socket for that nut ($74). You need a 3/4" drive wrench too. And to get 430 lbs of torque on that nut is another subject. Check out the Equalizer Hitch website and specifically the installation instructions.
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Old 03-14-2008, 06:52 AM   #18
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Strong?

Quote:
Originally Posted by thecatsandi
Get the six point!!! they are stronger.
All 3/4'' drive sockets have the tendancy to be pretty stout. This 12 pt. socket would be impossible to break under normal conditions.
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Old 03-14-2008, 07:18 PM   #19
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Using a pipe wrench

Well, as discussed above, I witnessed a truly effective tightening of the nut on my Equalizer, with the use of a pipe wrench on the ball flange, and a metal pipe approx. 4' in length slipped over the wrench handle to give some truly CRAZY leverage. The nut was jammed from below with a prybar. The ball will never need tightening again, that's for sure, although the wrench left some significant teeth marks on the flange at the base of the ball (but no marks on the ball or the neck). Since there is no contact between the hitch socket and the flange, I guess the teeth marks are just a cosmetic flaw(?).
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Old 03-14-2008, 08:11 PM   #20
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Yep, won't affect it at all.
So this was the dealer? That's the way I do it, but I wasn't sure if there was a better way. Nice to know.
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Old 03-14-2008, 09:32 PM   #21
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Now that you have it tight, only put grease on the top of the ball before towing. Never use anything lighter than axle grease on the ball, and never grease the whole thing. Lighter weight lubricants can work their way into the nut and cause it to loosen again, and greasing more than just the top is a waste of grease and a big mess at the end of the trip.

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