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Old 01-10-2019, 07:24 AM   #1661
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I use the speed wrench that came with the Airstream for the stabilizers. Then I switch to the ratchet wrench that came with the ProPride. That way I can get to the measurement I need for towing slowly.
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Old 01-11-2019, 11:02 AM   #1662
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For those using a powered drill, how do you crank it up to the same position consistently?


Like Switz, we use the speed wrench. When unhitching, we drop the WD jacks 30 turns (15 on one side, 30 on the other, then 15 on the first side). We then reverse the procedure when hitching up. Always on the money when I do final measurement.


For measuring height, I printed a ruler which I then taped to the breaker bar handle. I originally taped the ruler to the inside of each WD jack but they were scraped off in short order.







Greg
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Old 01-11-2019, 11:47 AM   #1663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greghoro View Post
For those using a powered drill, how do you crank it up to the same position consistently?


Like Switz, we use the speed wrench. When unhitching, we drop the WD jacks 30 turns (15 on one side, 30 on the other, then 15 on the first side). We then reverse the procedure when hitching up. Always on the money when I do final measurement.


For measuring height, I printed a ruler which I then taped to the breaker bar handle. I originally taped the ruler to the inside of each WD jack but they were scraped off in short order.







Greg


Similar to your ruler, I have a dedicated 1/2” socket wrench for the over center latches where I’ve placed a piece of tape at 6”. Since I always have that wrench with me when I’m hitching up, it’s always there as a last check. When I hit the road, if I’ve loaded up differently than I usually do, I occasionally find I need to adjust more or less depending on feel/porpoising. But 95% of the time, it’s spot on.

At the beginning of the season, I’ll check my weights again at the CAT scales just to be sure I haven’t changed the basics that much. If I do and that requires more or less WD, I’ll put a new piece of tape on the wrench.

I suppose it’s possible to scratch a line on the inside of the jack (though I personally wouldn’t do it), or, to paint some indicators at 4, 5, 6, 7 inches. But the tape on the wrench works fine for me.
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Old 01-11-2019, 10:53 PM   #1664
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greghoro View Post
For those using a powered drill, how do you crank it up to the same position consistently?
Greg
I used a yellow paint pen and drew a line on jack at my desired hieght. Initially I used some electrical tape until I got everything just right. Paint line is hidden while camping - obvious when needed. I use a Dewalt 20 volt drill driver. I usually overshoot by a little and back down to my line.
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Old 01-11-2019, 11:00 PM   #1665
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The unofficial pp users guide...

I have a tape measure in the box I keep trailer towing and setup stuff in. I used it to set up the jacks accurately.

The new power WD jacks have a cross shaft that synchronizes the two jack motors automagically.
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Old 02-17-2019, 07:32 PM   #1666
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Northern , Wisconsin
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2017 Yukon XL pulling a 2019 International Serenity 30’er.

I had Shawn ship me an extended length shank as I was sitting 2” high when cranked up. Installed the new shank and it’s perfectly level, I played with adjustments from 6” to 7.5”. At any less than 7.5” I had a bit of sway, but at 7.5” it feels AWESOME.

What’s the most I can raise the jacks? I was thinking about trying 8” just to see how it feels but I’m not sure what the upper limits are.

I know I need to hit the scales, but I’m mid-cross country trip and it’s not going to happen on this trip unfortunately.

(Also sorry is this has been covered, it’s hard to search the 1665 posts in this thread!)
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Old 02-17-2019, 07:41 PM   #1667
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I go up 4 fingers when not fully loaded, about 6" when loaded. Just don't use an impact driver.
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Old 02-21-2019, 06:55 PM   #1668
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dustent View Post
2017 Yukon XL pulling a 2019 International Serenity 30’er.

I had Shawn ship me an extended length shank as I was sitting 2” high when cranked up. Installed the new shank and it’s perfectly level, I played with adjustments from 6” to 7.5”. At any less than 7.5” I had a bit of sway, but at 7.5” it feels AWESOME.

What’s the most I can raise the jacks? I was thinking about trying 8” just to see how it feels but I’m not sure what the upper limits are.

I know I need to hit the scales, but I’m mid-cross country trip and it’s not going to happen on this trip unfortunately.

(Also sorry is this has been covered, it’s hard to search the 1665 posts in this thread!)
Do you ever buy fuel? I’m on the CAT SCALE several times weekly. To do The Three Pass Method “might” take you thirty minutes.

Get the phone app for CAT. And the locator. Schedule a fuel stop. Max the fuel and hit the scales. Late morning thru early afternoon is easiest at truck stops well away from metro areas. (And, no, you’re not in anyone’s way).

While hitch adjustments might need some experimentation, tire pressure won’t. Per axle weights are a good start. Inflate to spec, not over.
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Old 02-26-2019, 04:48 PM   #1669
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Towing AS with tailgate down

Anybody ever tried towing an AS with the tailgate of a pickup down? MC doesn’t fit 8 foot bed. Thanks.
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Old 02-27-2019, 09:10 AM   #1670
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How much clearance do you have between the tailgate and the power jack now? How much room if you are in a tight turning/backing situation between the jack and also the propane tank cover?

You would pick up some additional distance with the PP hitch but it may not be enough especially when turning/backing.
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Old 02-27-2019, 09:18 AM   #1671
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Parking lot, max turn, stop, drop tailgate. Can't take off tailgate?
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Old 03-07-2019, 10:22 AM   #1672
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Can someone point me to the DIY pics/design for the hitch ball shank that others have created to help dealerships move their trailers with Proprides installed? Most of the dealers use a fork lift with a ball attachement. I have an extra shank (10" drop, replaced with 12" drop) that I'd like to turn into a Propride mover to help out my dealership. Search was unhelpful.



Thanks!
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Old 03-07-2019, 10:56 AM   #1673
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Not sure what folks have made themselves - here’s what PP sells for that: https://www.propridehitch.com/propri...locking-plate/
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Old 03-07-2019, 11:59 AM   #1674
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I currently have a 2" stinger with which I have to use an adapter to fit my 2-1/2" receiver. My storage yard uses a fork lift with a 2" receiver welded to the fork. They just adjust the lift until it lines up with my stinger and hook up. On other trailers they put a ball mount in the receiver.

I want to change to a 2-1/2" stinger to eliminate play in the system. When I do that they will no longer be able to pick me up so I have a plan but haven't implemented it yet. I will buy a coupler and make a locking tool. When leaving the trailer I will install the locking tool and bolt the coupler onto the front of the stinger. If the bolt holes don't adequately line up I will buy a receiver tube and weld the coupler to it. I will then slip the receiver tube over the front of the stinger and pin it in place.


Al
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Old 03-07-2019, 12:16 PM   #1675
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Al - I have the 2.5” stinger - it’s about 60#....the reducer sleeve and 2” stinger may be worth keeping [emoji3]
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Old 03-07-2019, 12:24 PM   #1676
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Quote:
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Not sure what folks have made themselves - here’s what PP sells for that: https://www.propridehitch.com/propri...locking-plate/

Thank you! Exactly what I was looking for.


Given the price of the hitch, I think this should be something everyone considers getting and keeping with your trailer, you never know when you might need to use a standard ball hitch in your travels or when you'll need a repair. I'd rather spend $150 and not be the guy that's the pain the ass.
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Old 03-07-2019, 12:32 PM   #1677
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Thank you! Exactly what I was looking for.


Given the price of the hitch, I think this should be something everyone considers getting and keeping with your trailer, you never know when you might need to use a standard ball hitch in your travels or when you'll need a repair. I'd rather spend $150 and not be the guy that's the pain the ass.
Thought about that too keeping in mind this warning from PP:
WARNING: NOT FOR ROAD USE. DO NOT TOW ON ROADS WITH ORANGE PARTS INSTALLED. 5 MPH MAX SPEED.
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Old 03-07-2019, 07:50 PM   #1678
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For measuring I cut a piece of 3/4 PVC to the correct length (6.5 inches) and put a piece of cord on one end. Easy to hold in place until the bottom of the jack just passes the pvc. Hold the PVC in one hand and use a 20v cordless Porter Cable drill on low setting in the other hand.
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Old 03-07-2019, 10:52 PM   #1679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghaynes755 View Post
For measuring I cut a piece of 3/4 PVC to the correct length (6.5 inches) and put a piece of cord on one end. Easy to hold in place until the bottom of the jack just passes the pvc. Hold the PVC in one hand and use a 20v cordless Porter Cable drill on low setting in the other hand.

I used a paint pen and put a line on the inside pipe of the jack. It does get some wear, so I may need to re-apply sooner or later.
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Old 03-08-2019, 05:30 AM   #1680
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I used a paint pen and put a line on the inside pipe of the jack. It does get some wear, so I may need to re-apply sooner or later.
I did the same, marking several locations on the jack 1/2" apart for easy adjustment. Marks last a while before needing a touch up.
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