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SteveSueMac · 06-25-2015, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chracatoa

So the left OCL latch in my hitch always pushes out, almost on top of the pin. I wonder if this is normal? The right one never does it. This happens just by moving the trailer jack up and down. And it looks like this every time I stop to unhitch.

Has anybody else seen this? It doesn't seem to affect the performance of the hitch.

I'm not sure what's happening in this picture. Are you saying the left (circled) OCL is jumping over the locking pin to its left? If so, you may want to tighten the "silver doohickey" at the end of the OCL by turning it - by "tighten", I mean, you shouldn't be able to connect the OCL by hand. You want it tight enough in the notch that it takes the force of the OCL wrench to snap the unit in to place. Then the locking pins are just extra security.

In the top center of your pic - is that grease or a crack? 😳

If a crack - I wouldn't drive it. Call Sean or send him a text with a very crisp photo of that. If it's a crack, that may be related (cause or effect) to the OCL not being latched.

Good luck and be safe!!

chracatoa · 06-25-2015, 02:25 PM

It's not a crack! It's just an optical illusion.

chracatoa · 06-25-2015, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

If so, you may want to tighten the "silver doohickey" at the end of the OCL by turning it - by "tighten", I mean, you shouldn't be able to connect the OCL by hand.

Well, I think that might be it. I forgot about that (it's been years since I installed). I'll double check it this weekend.

SteveSueMac · 06-25-2015, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chracatoa

It's not a crack! It's just an optical illusion.

Whew! Great - good luck!!

switz · 06-26-2015, 07:33 AM

If you file on the arms, make a small radius rather than square edges. A stress crack can start in a corner......

Ohiobrits · 06-30-2015, 10:47 PM

I have a PP installed for about 6 months now with about 5000 miles on it. I get some noise from it after I have towed for a while, kinda groaning sounds, typically as I turn or go over undulations (low speed) in the road. I don't notice anything when driving at speed.

I grease the WD bar zerks every 1000 miles or so. I have no grease on the stinger or anywhere else (other than the ball of course when it was assembled).

I am seeing some wear of the paint on the stinger. Does anyone grease the stinger? I'd rather not, kinda messy when you take it off.

I think it may be the straps that connect the WD bars to the jacks where they rub on the base of the jack units. They rub on the jack units as the head articulated in a turn.

Any suggestions on potential issues, where are people greasing their PP's?(sorry, no pun intended)

dkottum · 07-01-2015, 04:25 AM

Just before hooking up the trailer I give the stinger and box on the hitch head a shot of CorrosionX. Helps it slide into the hitch easier and also easier to disengage. And it prevents corrosion on the assembly.

As for the noise in turns, I've only heard that once when I did not raise the trailer tongue jack high enough to clear the weight distribution bars. The bottom of the jack rubbed the top of the w.d. bars when making turns. Easy to recognize the problem, the paint was scratched off the bars where it rubbed.

cwf · 07-02-2015, 09:03 PM

Wow.. you have plenty of paint on that stinger! Ours has lost all the paint on the 'tapered wedges' on stinger and PP socket...

Also, yes, the WD adjuster straps are worn pretty well also..

I had used spray silicone usually but have switched to the Corrosion X.

We relube the 'ball' every couple tows, then lube the 'bars' every couple of tows and at least once per 1000 miles.

Ag&Au · 07-03-2015, 12:35 AM

I've been experimenting wit WD-40 white lithium spray. My initial impression is that it sticks around longer than any other speay lube I have used in the past.

Ken

PharmGeek · 07-04-2015, 02:33 PM

On a pinch - before hitching to leave our last trip - I sprayed a bit of Pam grill spray to lube the stinger up - slid right in

I am getting areas of rust in some spots on my PP - not sure how best to treat them - for now I will apply boeshield t9 - not sure if they need some sanding and new paint?

Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

Ag&Au · 07-04-2015, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PharmGeek

On a pinch - before hitching to leave our last trip - I sprayed a bit of Pam grill spray to lube the stinger up - slid right in

I am getting areas of rust in some spots on my PP - not sure how best to treat them - for now I will apply boeshield t9 - not sure if they need some sanding and new paint?

Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

I was once told by someone who should know that the best rust preventative is an undisturbed light coat of rust. Honest!!

Ken

lsbrodsky · 07-04-2015, 05:13 PM

Mine is rusting all of the time in lots of places. I just keep painting.
Larry

DoublTrouble · 07-04-2015, 06:36 PM

Larry,
Is there a preferred paint?

lsbrodsky · 07-05-2015, 03:36 AM

I have used Krylon, Rustoleum, and Duplicolor. They are ll the same.
Larry

dkottum · 07-05-2015, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ag&Au

I was once told by someone who should know that the best rust preventative is an undisturbed light coat of rust. Honest!!

Ken

This would be especially funny in Minnesota where a million cars and trucks have gone to the scrapyard missing rocker panels and lower body sections. But he may be referring to Cor-Ten steel where his statement is actually true.

Ag&Au · 07-05-2015, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkottum

This would be especially funny in Minnesota where a million cars and trucks have gone to the scrapyard missing rocker panels and lower body sections. But he may be referring to Cor-Ten steel where his statement is actually true.

I bet people keep touching the rust and contaminating it.

Ken

SteveSueMac · 07-05-2015, 02:46 PM

I am planning on a trip to Colonial to have mine taken off, inspected, cleaned and reinstalled with 1400# bars (not the 1000# I irdered against Sean's recommendation). I'm not convinced it was installed correctly when I purchased it and Colonial has experience with them. I realize everyone says you can do this yourself in a couple hours. Truth be told - I doubt I have 2 hours combined lifetime in things mechanical. I'm hoping to watch/photo/video if they'll let me and learn as much as I can.

dkottum · 07-05-2015, 03:53 PM

Sean is right about the larger w.d. bars. He also recommended and sent 1400# bars for our 25' Airstream/Ram 1500.

I believe this has been covered here (somewhere) but it's because the bars are farther back from the receiver than the usual w.d. hitch. The resulting ride is smooth, still a nice flex in the bars when w.d. applied.

DoublTrouble · 07-05-2015, 04:03 PM

We too have the 1400# bars between the 27FB and 3/4 ton.
While I cannot compare it to anything else, there are no issues.
I did not install mine either. We had the dealer do it. For me, the downside is not knowing how it all went together. I'm thinking about sleeping on the manual a few times to see if I can digest it.....

switz · 07-05-2015, 08:01 PM

I installed mine. Sean sent two ¼" steel filler plates to fill the gap on the "U" channels sitting on top of the box frame rails. Took some time, but I had to modify the rub rails to fit around the propane tank cover.