The unofficial pp users guide...

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by PharmGeek

not sure it relates...but when I park my airstream...I back through the yard on an unlevel surface, then onto the concrete pad (pretty much level....

I loosen the WD jacks before backing in, but all the motion and being off level and differeing from truck and trailer...the result is often that I have to adjust the WD different on each side in order to detach...and also I usually have to do the same when attaching (ie I get the stinger in most of the way, but the last bit requires always adjustment of the WD to allow proper easy entry...

I am used to it now and its not hard...but often wonder if the WD bars are putting alot of pressure on the trailer frame? perhaps I am doing something wrong...

I don't know that it's "wrong" but there is no need to loosen the jacks when backing in that I'm aware of.

And there is always some movement after you unhitch. I retread the manual and found the part about loosening the jacks JUST until you can kick the bars loose with your foot. This helps set the re-entry path. Also remember when you're unhitching, after you've loosened the WD, you need to lower or raise the jack to get to the point where the head begins to lift off the coupler. It's barely perceptible but someone here recommended feeling it with your hand and that works great. Just the right loose tension on the WD and exiting only when the head is lifted offer ball are 2 keys to successful unhitching and rehitching. There are times, however, when things adjust for whatever reason and you find you still need to fiddle with the WD jacks when you re-hitch. Once I learned that secret, the process became easy as pie!

Good luck!

[chracatoa]

So the internal part of the jacks is losing the paint in some places. There is only a bit of rust now but I'm afraid it's going to get worse. What can I do? I guess that using any kind of lube would be bad - i.e. the jack could slip down?

[cwf]

Originally Posted by chracatoa

So the internal part of the jacks is losing the paint in some places. There is only a bit of rust now but I'm afraid it's going to get worse. What can I do? I guess that using any kind of lube would be bad - i.e. the jack could slip down?

I sprayed with a little Boeshield...

[rodsterinfl]

If this is not what you are talking about, then I have no clue what you're talking about. Try re-describing more precisely what jacks, what frame, and what torsion you are talking about. There are several of all three in the tow vehicle/hitch/trailer system.

OK, here is my scenario. Last week I was hitching up. Once I secured the stinger to the hitch I raised the electric trailer frame jack which in turn raised the truck. I then pulled out my electric screwdriver set to low and used it to make two visits to each side of the hitch WD jacks alternating between while raising the WD bars with the power screwdriver. I noticed strain on the frame. I completed the lifting then lowered the tongue jack placing the distributed load on the trailer and truck. As I began to pull forward there was a loud noise. I got out to look and a rivet had popped off on the front of the trailer.

I am asking how to best lift the WD jacks to avoid the "twist". I raise the tongue jack to take the weight off the bars to a degree. I was just curious though how others do it. My driver is not an impact type. I know that any twist is not good and that is why I have been alternating between sides as I lift the WD jacks. Also, how do you all or, yous guys mark your stopping point on your WD jacks?

P.S. Did you know the plural of you all is "all y'all" referring to more than one group? Just a tidbit of southern lingo stuff since I used the words in a sentence! (for fun)

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by rodsterinfl

OK, here is my scenario. Last week I was hitching up. Once I secured the stinger to the hitch I raised the electric trailer frame jack which in turn raised the truck. I then pulled out my electric screwdriver set to low and used it to make two visits to each side of the hitch WD jacks alternating between while raising the bars. I notice strain on the frame. I completed the lifting then lowered the tongue jack placing the distributed load on the trailer and truck. As I began to pull forward there was a loud noise. I got out to look and a rivet had popped off on the front of the trailer.

I am asking how to best lift the WD jacks to avoid the "twist". I raise the tongue jack to take the weight off the bars to a degree. I was just curious though how others do it. My driver is not an impact type. I know that any twist is not good and that is why I have been alternating between sides as I lift the WD jacks. Also, how do you all or, yous guys mark your stopping point on your WD jacks?

The process you describe sounds very similar to the one I use - back the stinger in to the head, latch and pin it, raise the tongue jack, tighten the weight jacks to desired level, then lower everything (connect safety chains, breakaway cable, 7-pin, etc).

I use a closed ratchet wrench to adjust the weight jacks. On that wrench, I have a piece of tape that marks 6" so I can place the bottom of the wrench on the a-frame and see the tape align with the bottom of the raised sleeve. That 6" was determined after multiple trips to the scales and adjustments through driving. Your distance will vary.

What I don't understand in your process is how much WD you're applying when you hitch and how do you know it's right? Do you have 1000 or 1400# bars? Are you overloading your hitch receiver? How much weight are you returning to the tow vehicle's front axle? Are you consistently applying the same amount? When you pulled forward, was the tongue jack fully raised off the ground and enough to clear the bars? You say you noticed strain on the frame - what did you notice and was it on the trailer's a-frame or your truck's frame? What "twist" did you see?

Sorry for so many questions. I got most of what you wrote but I'm having a hard time "seeing" this in my head ...

Also, I'm not sure whether the popped rivet is or isn't related to your hitching...

[cwf]

All y'all ... Rodsterinfl!!

I measure the amount I have lifted.. i have decided I will add a circle of tape around the jack so when I see the tape, I have reached the proper WD set.

I have never seen the frame twist... I can see why you are concerned.. I don't think I want to look...

So.. where did you "pop" a rivet?

[rodsterinfl]

I too measure the jack height but I use the straight wrench that I use on the hitch as a measure to just past half on each side. I have 1400# bars as per Sean. On my other hitch I had it to a science. On this one, I am more "about here" using the just past half length on the WD jack height. The strain is the A frame of the trailer a tiny bit of lift. When I set the jack for the first time, I used the truck wheel well height method to set it. I felt comfortable doing that after hours of working with it and three CAT scale visits on the other hitch as a reference. The rivet popped on the front panel on the lower right side. The twisting is not severe I just note a slight movement of the frame- thus the alternating method. I move like a turtle during the process so I do not think there could be damage but the rivet was a wow- maybe even not related.

I have not come up with a marked method on the jacks yet. Nor have I visited the CAT scale since my initial visit to dial it in better. Would raising the truck even more help?

[switz]

My truck stays level regardless of load due to the air bag suspension. I make sure the corner under stabilizer trailer jacks are retracted.

After the stinger is seated and locked into place, the safety chains, seven wire plug and breakaway pin are connected. I do things by location. Then I tighten the WD jacks to the proper measurement using a tape measure. Then I retract the jack stand. There is a slight lowering of the assembly while the truck air pump puts more pressure into the air bags. Then I store the wheel chocks and do a last walk around before moving.

When disconnecting, after putting the wheel chocks in place, I lower the jack stand until it is solid on the ground. I then unscrew the WD jacks until they bars are floppy loose. After I disconnect the safety chains, seven way plug and break away brake wire, I pull the pins and rotate the lock bars away from the stinger. I then futz a little with the elevation of the jack stand to make sure it is the usual height off the ground and then pull away.

The twisting of the "A" frame never occurred to me, but one could tighten and loosen the WD jacks in one inch increments switching side to side to minimize twist forces. In a perfect world, there would be two folks, one on each side, that could tighten and loosen the WD jacks at the same time.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by switz

...snip...
In a perfect world, there would be two folks, one on each side, that could tighten and loosen the WD jacks at the same time.

In a PERFECT world, the WD jacks would be controlled by a pair of electric switches on the same side of the trailer so you can independently raise or lower each WD jack while standing in one location.

I know - first world problem :-)

[ghaynes755]

For setting the jack heights I cut a piece of 3/4 PVC to the correct length, ran a piece of string through it. Run the jacks to approximate height with a 20v Porter Cable drill (ditto on not using am impact wrench or if you do prepare to replace the split pin on the gear head of the jack) to run the approx height and check with the piece of PVC. Usually my eye ball height is pretty close. Same drill used to put the stabilizer jacks up and down. Make attach/detach of the trailer go rapidly.

[Pahaska]

I ordered my PPP on line with the 1000# bars, which was a mistake. The 1000# bars were barely adequate and I have always had a lot of bouncing on bad roads.

I recently made a trade with another forum member, my 1000# bars and bushings for his 1400# bars and bushings. It made quite a difference. I just put 3000 miles on the trailer and the whole rig felt much more solid.

I did notice one drawback for the 1400# bars. With the 1000# bars, I could store my stinger in the hitch with the hitch staying nice and level. With the 1400# bars, the hitch droops way down and the bars tend to swing out to the sides. I found that I could put a bungee cord between the bars and avoid most of the problem, but I now bring the stinger home in the bed of the truck instead of leaving it in the hitch.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by Pahaska

I ordered my PPP on line with the 1000# bars, which was a mistake. The 1000# bars were barely adequate and I have always had a lot of bouncing on bad roads.

I recently made a trade with another forum member, my 1000# bars and bushings for his 1400# bars and bushings. It made quite a difference. I just put 3000 miles on the trailer and the whole rig felt much more solid.

I did notice one drawback for the 1400# bars. With the 1000# bars, I could store my stinger in the hitch with the hitch staying nice and level. With the 1400# bars, the hitch droops way down and the bars tend to swing out to the sides. I found that I could put a bungee cord between the bars and avoid most of the problem, but I now bring the stinger home in the bed of the truck instead of leaving it in the hitch.

If I understand the problem correctly, I believe you could lift the WD jacks a bit and level the hitch.

Ken

[7GenTex]

Originally Posted by Pahaska

......
I recently made a trade with another forum member, my 1000# bars and bushings for his 1400# bars and bushings. It made quite a difference. I just put 3000 miles on the trailer and the whole rig felt much more solid.
..................

Glad to hear!

I'm still getting mine dialed in but the few short trips I have made have sold me on the P3.

[switz]

Leaving the stinger in the hitch when absent makes theft a lot easier even with a locking pin in the stinger. The lack of the stinger on location makes borrowing the trailer far more difficult.

[dkottum]

Taking the stinger away leaves that ProPride attachment baffling for those looking for a quick drive-away with your trailer. But in most campgrounds, we pull the truck ahead just enough to disconnect, then slide the stinger back into the head. The opposite to hook up.

Then there is virtually no lifting/carrying of heavy hitch equipment which I appreciate as I get older.

[Pahaska]

Originally Posted by dkottum

Taking the stinger away leaves that ProPride attachment baffling for those looking for a quick drive-away with your trailer. But in most campgrounds, we pull the truck ahead just enough to disconnect, then slide the stinger back into the head. The opposite to hook up.

Then there is virtually no lifting/carrying of heavy hitch equipment which I appreciate as I get older.

Exactly what I do. I'm 81 years old and carry the stinger as little as possible. Right now, it is stored on a mat, just inside the door of the Airstream.

[khollister]

Another new PP hitch owner here. Waiting on a care package from Sean with a couple of part fixes to complete the installation, but most of the work is done. Thanks to this thread, I had the necessary hardware to elevate the propane platform and shorter 1/2-13 bolts for the jacks.

And as reported, great before and after the sale support from Sean.

[ShinyPete]

As I reported on Post #900, we purchased a used ProPride some weeks back. I had the opportunity for a short 2 hour first tow last Friday, and I was grinning from ear to ear the whole time! The rig feels like it is welded together now, moving as one lever, and the small tail wag I used to get from Pete when anything large passed is gone.........

Now, I would like to ask you experienced PP users to look at my setup and give me your input. I started with the jacks raised 6" from the base, and then cranked them 3 more turns with the A/S stabilizer crank, so I ended up at about 6&1/2" I think the rig looks good, although a small level on the coach beltline molding says I'm almost a bubble low in the front. I had the old hitch dialed in with fender measurements, and didn't have time the other day for a scale visit, but I will get that done soon.

Please give me your input on how it looks-angle of the bars and hitch head when loaded, level of rig, etc. All input will be welcomed, and Thank You in advance for your time.

[ghaynes755]

ShinyPete that looks good but the only way to be truly accurate is to get to the CAT scales and do the weighing sequence that has been discussed multiple times. Attaching a spreadsheet I built to capture the data.

Cat Calc Sierra 2500 5-3-14.xls

[Ag&Au]

It looks fine, the trailer is level, the truck is fairly level. It drives fine. I assume you have done everything in the set up correctly. You can take it to the scales if it makes you feel better, but personally, I'd be happy with it as is.

Ken