The unofficial pp users guide...

[dznf0g]

I did what Zackybilly did, but I don't think you need to cut off as much of the reducer as in the last pic. The factory reducer has a "fat lip" which acts as nothing more than a depth gauge to quickly line up the pin holes with the receiver pin holes. But this lip consumes about 1/2" of the available stinger real estate for RT installation. A quick cut with the sawsall, and the fit was fine.

[Zackybilly1]

Originally Posted by cwf

So the 3p and RTs didn't work?

Even with my adapter cut short, it still wouldn't fit on my truck...close but no cigar. The new OEM receiver bushing was $28. What I am going to do is cut off some of that "excess" drop on the vertical bar and then mill it to 2" x 2" square (currently, its 2" x 2.5") for the Rock Tamer "yoke".

My second Rock Tamer just came it so I'll be working on that mod tonight. Did dump valve replacements on my '03 Classic this weekend so didn't get a chance to start on the hitch mod before hand. What a PIA that was but I feel like a have a new lease on life with fresh valves.

Z

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Zackybilly1

Even with my adapter cut short, it still wouldn't fit on my truck...close but no cigar. The new OEM receiver bushing was $28. What I am going to do is cut off some of that "excess" drop on the vertical bar and then mill it to 2" x 2" square (currently, its 2" x 2.5") for the Rock Tamer "yoke".

My second Rock Tamer just came it so I'll be working on that mod tonight. Did dump valve replacements on my '03 Classic this weekend so didn't get a chance to start on the hitch mod before hand. What a PIA that was but I feel like a have a new lease on life with fresh valves.

Z

I'm confused...is the space between the receiver and the too narrow....or is the vertical bar with the height adj holes hitting something? I never had the vertical bar interfere with anything on the 3 2500's I've used as TVs.

[dznf0g]

WAIT! Flip the receiver end of the stinger over so the side plates go up. The sloped cutout reliefs on the RT yoke are on the rear top side. I think that'll gain you about 1/4" of space.

[dznf0g]

Like this....(pic is of a 2013 Silverado 2500HD)

[dznf0g]

Nevermind...I'm looking at it wrong. I don't get it why you don't have enough room...I actually have a bit extra.

[dznf0g]

like this? I have to do this with my Express van, as the receiver is recessed forward of the rear edge of the bumper....it works fine, but why cut it off?

[Zackybilly1]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

....it works fine, but why cut it off?

Mine is on a '14 Silverado 2500HD. This is as close as it would come to pinning up...with the yoke flipped, its worse.



I'm cutting it off because I don't need as much drop with this truck as I do on the '13 Suburban 2500. I ordered the hitch before I decided to buy another truck. That's the new bushing I just picked up.



So now it is shorter.....



My verticals are 2" x 2.5" (maybe due to the longer drop ordered on both) therefore the top of the vertical needs to be 2 x 2 for the yoke to fit....I did this during lunch and am powder coating it as I type (takes a while to heat up due to the mass of the hitch bar).



I left an extra bolt hole for a "retaining" bolt above where the yoke will mount so that it will be "captured" as with the horizontal mounting. I should have it done after dinner and will post pics of the final product when done.

Z

[Zackybilly1]

Originally Posted by Zackybilly1

I should have it done after dinner and will post pics of the final product when done.

Stewed okra, mac & cheese, rib-eye and dinner rolls...








As mentioned, left an open hole above the "yoke". A retainer bolt will prevent the RT from rattling off and most likely, will incorporate a lifting handle.


Now, I can pull either trailer with either truck. Next on the agenda is several trips to the scales for each possibility.


Although the receiver on the Suburban 2500 is built hell-for-stout, it is entirely too high. After towing with the Suburban ('13, 6.0L, tow package, sway control, 3.73:1, blah, blah, blah and towing with the Silverado ('14, 2500HD, 4x4, Duramax/Allison)...I wouldn't trade the Siverado for two Suburbans. I'll use it when I need a third row seat but I don't see using it much for towing other than closer destinations. The Silverado gets about the same fuel economy towing as the Suburban gets empty.

Z

[cwf]

Z!
Kewl! I thought of mounting RTs on vertical as you did. I worried it might not be reliable since it loads the yoke sideways.

Seems it would be doable to mount directly to the vertical bar with longer bolt. .. Any thoughts?

I received the replacement hitch bar today. I haven't measured but it looks like it is drilled nearly an inch longer than stock. Pics to follow.

I am concerned about the length causing other issues with towing.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by dznf0g

like this? I have to do this with my Express van, as the receiver is recessed forward of the rear edge of the bumper....it works fine, but why cut it off?

Attachment 197775

Thanks for posting the picture of your dolly. I've been looking for a portable storage solution for the stinger and rock tamers.

Ken

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Ag&Au

Thanks for posting the picture of your dolly. I've been looking for a portable storage solution for the stinger and rock tamers.

Ken

I shamelessly stole the design from another forum member here.....can't remember who to give the kudos to though. I did make mine big enough for the flaps to store inside for winter storage and my batts to sit on top on either side of the stinger. Should free up some floor space.

[cwf]

Ok.. I have replacement PP hitch receiver end installed.

The new one was sent with a slightly longer shank so that I can install the RockTamers. I did not have to modify (saw the end off my receiver adapter).

Interestingly I could not find original instructions. I printed out a fresh set and remade all measurements. The interesting part is not my forgetfulness, rather, the outcome. One of my sons helped install initially and that had us mount with "plates down". My measurements resulted in "plates up"... And about an inch higher result for the stinger.

I also added additional washers to the bumper pin.

"Things that make you say 'hmmmm'.."

[SteveSueMac]

Ok - probably an odd request. Bear with me - some background first...

I'm considering (haven't decided for sure) swapping out my 1000# bars for 1400# bars on my ProPride. Sean recommended 1400 but I went with 1000 because the AS manual said the tongue was 1000 max. Originally, the idea behind the swap was to improve porpoising. However, since adjusting the hitch head to be even (it was off by 1.5" on one side) the porpoising has basically gone away.

The other reason is that at 6" of lift on the WD jacks, I'm only getting 50% FALR. According to my truck's manual, 50% is all I need and in all honesty, the front fender barely moves when I hook up!

So I'm on the fence.

Would 1400# bars reduce porpoising and move more weight to the front axle? If so - how?

Then if that's the case (and here's the odd request) does anyone have video of that process? There's nothing on YouTube about PP installation (which would show the part about WD bars) and more importantly, I'm looking for video of removing them (from a PP on the a-frame) and then reinstalling (or installing new ones).

I asked in a different thread how difficult this would be (I'm not a mechanic! ) and was told it's very easy. I was told the same about correcting the hitch head and it really was. Sean seems to think it will take 15 minutes! But I'd love some specific instructions and video would be even better.

Anyone have such a thing? I might just stick with the 1000s. It's all been good so far!

[Ag&Au]

What is FALR?

The 1400# bars are stiffer therefor it takes less travel of the WD jacks to get the same WD. Although they look pretty stiff both 1000 and 1400 bars will flex under load, the 1000 more so than the 1400.

I feel the best policy in cases like this, is to do what the manufacturer of the equipment (in this case Sean) tells you to. I have ~1000 lb. tongue weight. I use the 1400# bars Sean recommended. I have no problems and the ride is good. Sean has sold a lot of hitches to Airstream owners, so I would assume he knows what he is talking about.

This a trade off. The stiffer the bars, the harder the ride. The softer the bars, the more up and down travel (bucking) you will get. I find that with my 1400# bars, I sometimes have to adjust the WD jacks when we first start out with a given loading. I loosen them to get rid of a harsh ride, and tighten them to get rid of a bouncy ride.



Ken

[HiHoAgRV]

I have 1400 lb bars on my 1991 34' and have to crank them pretty hard to restore front tire weight, it's a HaHa but the geometry should be the same. We have towed all over the place and not seen any issues from the higher rated bars. PP and HaHa bars dont follow the same guidelines as regular hitches because of the extra spacing from the ball. Thats my opinion and its worth exactly what you paid me for it!

In my opinion, proposing is a function of the 2 vehicles and reducing it by using WD is at the risk of extra strain on the tongue. One of these days I'm going to put on strain gauges and see what is really happening on the A frame.

[SteveSueMac]

Ken - FALR = front axle load restoration. The scales say I take 500# off the front axle when connecting, and at 6" of lift on the WD jacks, restore 280# to the front axle (for 56% FALR).

Manual says 50% is sufficient so I may be good as is, and again, the porpoising stopped after straightening out the hitch head. Still - Sean recommended the 1400s at the time of the sale and I'm tempted to swap them out if easy enough to do on my own.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by HiHoAgRV

...snip...

In my opinion, proposing is a function of the 2 vehicles and reducing it by using WD is at the risk of extra strain on the tongue. One of these days I'm going to put on strain gauges and see what is really happening on the A frame.

Now that's interesting. Hadn't thought of that.

Because they've worked well, there isn't a need per se to swap them out. But I really do wonder if the 1400s would be more appropriate?

Still would like to see (in video) what the procedure would look like - might help me decide if I feel comfortable trying it.

[Ag&Au]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Ken - FALR = front axle load restoration. The scales say I take 500# off the front axle when connecting, and at 6" of lift on the WD jacks, restore 280# to the front axle (for 56% FALR).

Manual says 50% is sufficient so I may be good as is, and again, the porpoising stopped after straightening out the hitch head. Still - Sean recommended the 1400s at the time of the sale and I'm tempted to swap them out if easy enough to do on my own.

I would have to get the manual out to figure out how much work it would be to swap the bars. However I installed mine on my own so I think I could swap out the bars with less work than that.

I don't agree with whatever manual you are quoting. The load placed on the tow vehicle ideally should be proportionally distributed between the front and rear axles.

For instance, lets say the difference between the rear axle's empty weight and max rated weight is 1000# and the difference on the front axle's is 500#, the load should be distributed in such a way so as to put 2/3 of the load on the rear axles and 1/3 on the front. If you unload the front axle at all, you will negatively affect the steering characteristics of the TV. If you unload it enough, it will be unstable and difficult to control.

With your trailer and 3/4 ton TV, it should be easy to keep from unloading the front axles with WD bars heavy enough. Perhaps you need the 1400# bars.

Ken

[Ag&Au]

One other thing I think is worthy of mention:

When a piece of equipment has a weight rating, that is the maximum weight it is certified to handle safely. Therefore, if your tongue weight is 1001 pounds, you are technically exceeding its design limits. These weight distribution bars are the same as any tool. You should choose the weight rating that you know you will not have a need to exceed.

Ken