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Old 07-05-2016, 08:49 PM   #1373
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Very helpful, thanks. Next time you do it, could you video it? It all makes sense until that last part. Would love to see exactly how the slow pull forward engages the coupler.

Thanks for the helpful tip!
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Old 07-05-2016, 08:52 PM   #1374
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I seem to recall a pic from someone who installed a grease zerk fitting in the top of their coupler. Seemed like a neat idea. I haven't had a need to apply additional grease yet (after multiple seasons), otherwise I might be inclined to add one as well.
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Old 07-05-2016, 09:13 PM   #1375
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Found it....
http://maze.airstreamlife.com/2010/1...intenance-day/
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Old 07-05-2016, 10:24 PM   #1376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chracatoa View Post
Anyone has a link where we can buy the pins online? Or at least the right diameter/lengths.
Check the nut and bolts department at your local non-big box hardware store, they should have them in one of the many drawers above the bins.


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Old 07-05-2016, 10:43 PM   #1377
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Went to two local hardware stores today and they had either 1" or 1.5" but no 1.25" length. While the link went to a Home Depot web site, the part is NOT in their stores. One can order on line and it will be delivered to a local store......

So went to the Home Depot website and a package of ten is $4.19 but the shipping to my home is $5.99, plus local sales tax. I bumped up the quantity to three packages to have battle spare I could share if necessary.
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Old 07-05-2016, 11:07 PM   #1378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohiobrits View Post
  • Lower the AS back onto the ball.
  • You will probably not be able to get the ball lock seated again so hop in your TV, start the engine, put your TV in drive and GENTLY ease off the foot brake. It will only take a partial lift off the brake and you should hear a "click" as the ball lock reseats. Put back in neutral
I took a slightly different approach, where I positioned a jack under the hitch head and dropped the hitch head and ball down from the coupler onto a stack of leveling blocks. This approach allowed me to jimmy the ball back into place into the coupler when I raised the hitch head back up, so the latch would close completely onto the ball.

As always, YMMV


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Old 07-06-2016, 08:32 AM   #1379
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Greasing the ball is very simple with a cheap floor jack from Harbor Freight. Very quick and I don't even take it off of the jack, up, unlock, down to clear the ball, grease, up and lock back into place. 10 minutes at most including pulling the jack out of the garage. I think the jack was something like $39.

Jack is also good for putting upward pressure on the stinger when trying to tighten it up against the support pin on the receiver section of the hitch. Not as back breaking as trying to do it by hand.

No jack then Ohio Brits method works. Same type of instructions in reverse of how to originally mount the hitch in the PP instructions.
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Old 07-06-2016, 05:37 PM   #1380
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Very helpful, thanks. Next time you do it, could you video it? It all makes sense until that last part. Would love to see exactly how the slow pull forward engages the coupler.

Thanks for the helpful tip!
The pull forward bit moves the TV maybe an 1/8th of an inch forward. Thats it. For some reason when you jack the nose of the AS up it gets slightly out of alignment (fore and aft) with the ball. You are basically just putting the TV, AS and ball back in the exact same alignment as when it was released and jacked up. Think of it as taking up some slack in the train. You are certainly not trying to move the AS in any significant way. I leave the TV door open and listen for the "click" as the ball lock slots into place. The click is the ball lock latch moving from vertical (where it is stuck - won't go down) to its horizontal locked position. You know it is in the right position if the holes in the lock are aligned and you can get your padlock or locking pin back in. Simple part of the process but an important step if you get stuck in the "unlatched" position. Caused me a considerable amount of concern when I did this the first time on the road and could not get it latched .
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Old 07-11-2016, 01:42 PM   #1381
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I'm foggy on the wd cover discussion - if someone makes a YouTube video let me know!

Also - remind me what grease to use for the hitch ball - need to do that stat
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Old 07-11-2016, 01:46 PM   #1382
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Any good grease will do but I like to use Teflon Hitch Ball grease, white stuff, available at trailer places.

Larry
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Old 07-11-2016, 02:35 PM   #1383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alphonse View Post
Be careful ordering the 2.5" receiver end from ProPride. I bought one and it looked great until I went to install it. it was fabricated too wide by an 1/8" where the drop bolts in and the drop would have been sloppy when installed. There are huge forces and moments at this connection of the receiver end and the drop and it must fit properly.

I have been trying to get this squared away with Sean for 9 months now with lots of unfulfilled promises. I am fearful that PP is suffering financial woes.

There are no issues with the 2.5" receivers. There are hundreds of them on the road.

ProPride is as strong financially as ever with more business coming in daily so there's nothing to fear. We've been debt free for 9 years now.

You can return the bar and I'll refund your money immediately. I don't have any within the tolerances you'd like.


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Old 07-11-2016, 04:27 PM   #1384
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My 2.5" bar needed a little grinding along all 4 corners to fit into the GM 2.5" receiver. It wasn't a big deal and not much material - took the shop maybe 10 minutes and it's been fine ever since. It is, however, heavy as a boat anchor 😀

Sean - what does the 2.5" bar (with stinger bolted on) weigh? I never put it on a scale but I'm guessing 65 or more?

I just didn't want to do the reducer sleeve. Everything's a compromise 😀
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Old 07-12-2016, 09:24 AM   #1385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
My 2.5" bar needed a little grinding along all 4 corners to fit into the GM 2.5" receiver. It wasn't a big deal and not much material - took the shop maybe 10 minutes and it's been fine ever since. It is, however, heavy as a boat anchor 😀

Sean - what does the 2.5" bar (with stinger bolted on) weigh? I never put it on a scale but I'm guessing 65 or more?

I just didn't want to do the reducer sleeve. Everything's a compromise 😀

It's 55 pounds with the 2.5" receiver end.


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Old 07-12-2016, 06:41 PM   #1386
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Sad

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean Woodruff View Post
There are no issues with the 2.5" receivers. There are hundreds of them on the road.

ProPride is as strong financially as ever with more business coming in daily so there's nothing to fear. We've been debt free for 9 years now.

You can return the bar and I'll refund your money immediately. I don't have any within the tolerances you'd like.


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Sean, Here are two of the photos of the receiver dimensional problem I sent you November last year.

You agreed (in writing) to replace it. You also agreed that I could send back the defective one in the box that the replacement came in. You didn’t send it, I finally got in touch with you after multiple attempts and you told me you the replacement was at the powder coaters and it would be sent soon. It didn’t come. Next round you told me you had sold the replacement to someone else and you would make a new one. Multiple promises by you to send a new one and almost ¾ of a year waiting, replacement never sent.

Now you announce here that you can’t make it to the tolerances that I desire! After all this time, you also now say send it back for a refund! Wow!

By the way, I would then be out freight cost times two.

This is all sad because it is a nice looking piece but it was simply made too wide. I sincerely hope your future is not as at risk as your behavior indicates.

I wish you well.
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