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Old 07-03-2016, 01:46 PM   #1359
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KYAirstream - yes that's the part. You also need the size just smaller than that to tap out the broken part that remains stuck in the gear channel.


Ghaynes - same here - impact wrench was my first one. Second was not paying attention. WD was all the way down and I thought I needed to lower it some more ... oh man....

Papa Smurf - glad it worked out for you! As for other parts - not sure. That ratchet wrench that comes with it didn't last more than a month. But upgrading to an 18v drill (NOT an impact driver &#128512 with a 3/4 socket does the trick and also works on the trailer's stabilizer jacks as well.

Happy camping everyone.
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Old 07-04-2016, 08:32 AM   #1360
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There are drift pins of different diameters sold at hardware stores to drive out the broken roll pins. Less chance of smashing the thumb with a hammer.
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Old 07-04-2016, 08:41 AM   #1361
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I haven't opened my WD jack up since I haven't had a problem, but would a small pair of needle nose pliers do the trick to remove a worn/broken roll pin?
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Old 07-04-2016, 09:47 AM   #1362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KYAirstream View Post
I haven't opened my WD jack up since I haven't had a problem, but would a small pair of needle nose pliers do the trick to remove a worn/broken roll pin?
I think not. I've not had a roll pin break in this application but have broken them in other similar situations.

As stated earlier, the roll pin must be a specific length so that it does not extend out of the gear. Nothing to grab with needle nose pliers. Additionally, the pin shears inside the gear where it meets the shaft. So the sheared roll pin ends up in three pieces; one piece in the shaft and two on either side of the gear. Each has to be driven out, ideally using a drift pin tool.


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Old 07-04-2016, 10:09 AM   #1363
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After some searching, I found a small set online that isn't too expensive...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016O...eFL&ref=plSrch

I saw several larger sets of roll pin punches, but they aren't tapered so I don't suppose they'd work?
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Old 07-04-2016, 09:51 PM   #1364
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Minor thread hijack...

I've seen recommendations that an impact driver is a good tool to have in the kit. Now I'm wondering, when would it be useful. Only thing that comes to mind for me is tightening or loosening wheel lug nuts. Anything else?
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Old 07-04-2016, 10:00 PM   #1365
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Don't waist your $$ on a punch. I just carry a 3" nail in my tool box and it works fine for pushing the pins out. I have broken a couple of these over time and they are really not a big deal to fix.
In my case. both pins were broken while using an impact driver on my WD cranks..... I know I'm slow learner as it took doing it twice before the light came on. Have since left the impact at home and travel with a normal 18volt Maketa drill and have not broken a pin since.
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Old 07-04-2016, 10:03 PM   #1366
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I don't recall if it's in the maintenance instructions for our ProPride, but we pop the covers off the screw jacks to lube the gears when we lube the hitch ball. Otherwise the grease will dry up, putting more stress on the gears and roll pin.
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Old 07-04-2016, 10:32 PM   #1367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KYAirstream View Post
After some searching, I found a small set online that isn't too expensive...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016O...eFL&ref=plSrch

I saw several larger sets of roll pin punches, but they aren't tapered so I don't suppose they'd work?

My $0.02 from experience (twice). A slightly smaller pin and a hammer solve the problem. I see ArcticFox replied with more (correct) insight.
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Old 07-04-2016, 10:34 PM   #1368
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Minor thread hijack...

I've seen recommendations that an impact driver is a good tool to have in the kit. Now I'm wondering, when would it be useful. Only thing that comes to mind for me is tightening or loosening wheel lug nuts. Anything else?

I wouldn't use one on lug nuts either. Torque wrench is my preference.

In the past, if I recommended one, I apologize. Maybe there's a good use for rusted bolts?
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Old 07-04-2016, 10:42 PM   #1369
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I wouldn't use one on lug nuts either. Torque wrench is my preference.

In the past, if I recommended one, I apologize. Maybe there's a good use for rusted bolts?
I will use them to remove lug nuts, but not to tighten them. If I'm feeling lazy. I will start them with an impact driver, but finish with torque wrench.

Ken
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Old 07-05-2016, 11:06 AM   #1370
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Anyone has a link where we can buy the pins online? Or at least the right diameter/lengths.
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Old 07-05-2016, 11:51 AM   #1371
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http://m.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman...1413/204726277

5/32" x 1.25"
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Old 07-05-2016, 09:15 PM   #1372
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Grease your ball!

I've been using a ProPride for a few seasons now. I posted about a grinding/groaning noise back around post #1200 (approx). At that time I indicated I had tried greasing the jacks, more grease on the WD bars and finally that I had made some shims for the receiver to reduce free play. This all seemed to help at the time but the grinding/groaning noise came back at the end of last year. I finally tracked it down to a ball that needed greasing I just regressed again a few weeks ago and thought I'd post here in case others were chasing some weird noises with their hitches.

It is a simple job to do. The first time I did this I was in a campsite on the road. You will need a supply of grease, preferably a grease gun to apply but by hand will work also. Some rags or paper towels and about 15 minutes. Procedure is as follows: -
  • Chock the trailer wheels.
  • Put the stinger in your TV as normal
  • Back up the TV and hitch up as normal (lock in place the over center latches).
  • Unlatch the ball lock on your AS as if you were unhitching a regular trailer (remove whatever locking mechanism you have, pull latch forward and up).
  • Jack up the nose of your AS with the tongue jack - PP head is now supported by the stinger/TV and the AS ball cup raises up to expose the ball.
  • You should not need to loosen or remove anything from the PP to do this, just make sure the WD bars are loose, about 1" or so from the lowest position.
  • Make sure the AS is secure on the tongue jack before putting your hands anywhere near the ball.
  • Once your are sure all is secure, clean the old grease from the ball and cup.
  • Apply grease to the ball and inside the cup with your hand.
  • Lower the AS back onto the ball.
  • You will probably not be able to get the ball lock seated again so hop in your TV, start the engine, put your TV in drive and GENTLY ease off the foot brake. It will only take a partial lift off the brake and you should hear a "click" as the ball lock reseats. Put back in neutral.
  • Put your ball lock mechanism back on.
  • You should now be good to go.

I have now re-greased my ball twice in less than 2 years. I'd recommend doing this as part of you annual maintenance or sooner if you hear any noises from the hitch. The other typical culprit for noise is lack of grease on the WD bars (via the zerk fittings). This re-greasing should be done about every 1000 miles.
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