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Old 02-22-2016, 10:45 PM   #1303
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It is a different process. compared to the Equal-i-zer I had previous.

Here are the things I like:
1. No heavy things to lift
2. No grease on me!
3. can dial in the exact WD needed for the given load

The things I am getting used too
1. Making sure you have a good angle when you unhitch so you can easily hitch back up
2. when unhitching you need to pay attention to make sure you can pull out cleanly.

As a total side note, an unexpected bonus of using the 3P is my backing up has improved soon much! There is something about the shift in pivot point that just works for me and I have totally nailed the last 2 camp grounds and our narrow driveway. In fact, when the Airstream dealer came to collect our trailer last week, he took one look at the driveway and the width of the road and asked straight up "so, you don't have any problems backing in then?" To which I replied "not any more!"
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Old 02-23-2016, 06:00 AM   #1304
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Originally Posted by NoResults View Post
I am in the process of purchasing a 23 or 25 fc. It appears that one needs a video on howto use this hitch. Surely they can't all be this big of pain in the butt that it takes 93 pages and posts to figure it out.

Really is the best?
There are good user "product videos" on the Propride website.

I have had a Propride hitch on my 25 since Oct. 2012. There is a learning curve to this hitch. It is well worth the money and the time spent to learn how to use it. Hitching and unhitching is a non-issue after a few trips.
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Old 02-23-2016, 07:34 AM   #1305
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Originally Posted by Gsmblue View Post
rmkrum,

Thanks, hitching up has been easy, the unhitching is not so fun! I tried doing just was you explained and it has worked 2/3 times, only 1 near disaster!

I think I read somewhere that another consideration for un hitching is to measure the height of the stinger when not connected to the trailer. Then when you want to unhitch use the jack to return the stinger to that height and you should be good to go...

That process will not work if your tow vehicle is at a different horizontal angle from the trailer. You will still have pressure on the PP receiver. You will have to loosen the weight bars until there is slack in the vertical risers.
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:10 AM   #1306
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Concerning unhitching, I have tried the measuring method, but due to weird slopes and angles it does not seem to always work for me. Not only that, but I sometimes add items to the back of my truck after I am already hitched which also messes with the measurements. What I have found that does work every time is to unhook everything and then pull the truck forward just a little (about three inches). At this point the stinger is still in the hitch, but I can now see the stinger and tell if there is any pressure on it. I then raise or lower with the power jack until I see it is at the right height and pull forward the rest of the way. It sounds like a lot of extra work, but it only takes about a minute or less to do.

Concerning hooking up, I still sometimes have a little trouble if it is at a weird angle. I decided I rather have trouble hooking up while sitting still in a campground then any kind of trouble whatsoever at 65mph on the interstate. Hitching trouble is manageable, while high speed trouble may not be. That is why I never complain about trouble hooking or unhooking with the ProPride. It really does live up to the hype when towing.

My only complaint with the ProPride hitch is low ground clearance. If I am at a site that slopes down at the back, I can only lower the front so far before the WD bars sit on the ground. I can get around this by placing something under the trailer tires (on both sides) to raise the back of the trailer, but I only carry so many blocks. Trailers that sit higher and use a traditional WD hitch have a lot more adjustment than I do.
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Old 02-23-2016, 08:47 AM   #1307
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GSMBlue, When you setup with the Andersens I've found that pulling forward on them is the best way. Then set the wheel chocks. Next put the tow vehicle in neutral while holding the brake and then slowly release the brake to take any pressure from pulling/pushing off of the hitch. If the TV is on a downslope I've even backed it up an inch to take out any pressure.

Then lower the tongue jack to start taking weight off, lower the spring jacks until the bars swing loose, slowly raise the tongue jack watching the the hitch ball cover and when you see it move/loosen/rise you should be good to go.

One other key item. The head, as much as possible should be straight and not off to one side. I put a piece of white tape on the head and the little shield so that I can see them lined up in the backup camera. If you have backed into a spot and it isn't aligned get it aligned, either pull forward or go backward (wheels in opposite direction) to get it straight. Then pull up onto the Andersens if needed. Having it straight makes all the work much easier.

Lastly the latches, when everything is aligned should almost come loose without using the socket bar. If you see it taking a lot of effort that's a good indication that all things are not aligned.
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Old 02-23-2016, 12:46 PM   #1308
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I've been able to hook up at odd angles, but found that pushing the PP head into proper alignment by hand before I hook up is an easy way to get hooked up. Some use a 2" stick placed into the head as an alignment tool.

I learned to hook up without a backup camera when I first got the hitch. Our new TV has a camera and it makes it much easier. A bit of reflective tape helps find stinger and head in the dark.


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Old 02-23-2016, 07:04 PM   #1309
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You guys find hitching and unhitching the 3P to be a bit tedious compared to other WD hitches?
Knowing what you're doing is more important. However, once you do, it's no more tedious. For me, its nice to know that, once I hitch it, I likely stand a better chance of being around to unhitch it than with some other systems.

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Old 02-23-2016, 07:55 PM   #1310
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Amen to that. It's like takeoffs and landings in airplanes. The number of hitches and unhitches should come out equal.....


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Old 02-23-2016, 09:36 PM   #1311
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Now it is mentioned, the hitch does ride really low, I do worry about the WD bars...
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Old 02-23-2016, 10:05 PM   #1312
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The unofficial pp users guide...

That's why I'm looking into a set of brackets to raise the trailer ride height about three inches or so.

I've gently dragged ours occasionally

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Old 02-23-2016, 10:12 PM   #1313
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Now it is mentioned, the hitch does ride really low, I do worry about the WD bars...
Well, one way to look at is:

They are the perfect shape for skid bars and also very sturdy.

The worst I've encountered is a bit of paint off the bottom side of the WD bars.

Look for the positive side. It takes some weight off the rear of the TV for a bit.

Ken
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Old 02-23-2016, 10:18 PM   #1314
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That's why I'm looking into a set of brackets to raise the trailer ride height about three inches or so.

I've gently dragged ours occasionally

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Dexter makes a lift kit to do just that. I would stick with theirs as it is intended for their axles.

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Old 02-24-2016, 01:29 AM   #1315
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The unofficial pp users guide...

Yup. I'm following that thread already..

Just need to get the $ together and call Inland Andy...they are just up the road a bit from here.

Then the joy of getting my fat self under a properly supported AS to install them.


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Old 02-24-2016, 09:07 PM   #1316
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Just ordered the 3P. It will be interesting installing this bad boy!
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