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Old 09-30-2015, 03:01 PM   #1247
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Your experience, IMHO, is exactly how any customer service should be. I also had a lot of questions pre-purchase from Shaun, and he answered all my queries with accurate information and great attention to detail.

Clone that gentleman now! He's just super.

And, for the record, I did not get anything past a hard sell from the other guys.

So now you know one of the primary reasons I bought a ProPride setup...😀


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Old 09-30-2015, 04:26 PM   #1248
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Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
I've had a couple of "pops" since then - similar to the sound I've had before the adjustment when the main hitch unit would "pop" out of alignment from a near jackknife back-in angle. Only, no tough angles.

So after unhitching last time, I looked at the alignment and it's perfectly centered - so it's not moving as it has in the past. I moved the main hitch head/yoke and there seems to be ton of play (up down left right) and I can't recall if it was the same before the adjustment. I remember some amount of play but can't recall if it was as much as I'm seeing now.
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Originally Posted by ghaynes755
---My question/issue was a puzzler that we spent about 5 hours noodling/experimenting and yes, did a bit of swearing. Changed a couple of parts, actually replaced all of the bearings in the head (should say Sean's dad replaced the bearings), multiple test runs around the neighborhood with Sean in the bed of the truck watching the PP. More head scratching...
Steve,

If it were my hitch, I would pull all four bearings and closely inspect them.

Even if I found no indication of defects, I would replace all four. They're not that expensive.

Might not solve the problem -- but apparently Sean thought it was worth trying.

Ron
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Old 09-30-2015, 05:51 PM   #1249
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Thanks, Ron - are you saying Gary's post is about the same question I'm asking? I didn't get that inference (did I miss that, Gary??).

I'll check in to that - may give Sean a call first.

I did notice that when testing the torque on the stinger assembly bolts, they needed a bit of tightening to hit the required 150# so it made me wonder if anything else was not fully torqued (though I think the only other spec in the manual is the 250# on the yoke - I failed to check those....).
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Old 09-30-2015, 06:47 PM   #1250
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Does anyone remember 'White Out'? I put a 'drop' of it on parts/joints where I want to see if there is 'movement'. If stuff moves that isn't supposed to, you will see the separation of the White Out.
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Old 10-01-2015, 06:30 AM   #1251
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Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Hello fellow ProPridians 😃

I reported a while back that Colonial replaced my 1000# bars with 1400# bars and basically disconnected and reinstalled the entire unit.

I've had a couple of "pops" since then - similar to the sound I've had before the adjustment when the main hitch unit would "pop" out of alignment from a near jackknife back-in angle. Only, no tough angles.

So after unhitching last time, I looked at the alignment and it's perfectly centered - so it's not moving as it has in the past. I moved the main hitch head/yoke and there seems to be ton of play (up down left right) and I can't recall if it was the same before the adjustment. I remember some amount of play but can't recall if it was as much as I'm seeing now.

How would you describe the amount of movement in your main hitch head unit/yoke when it's not connected to your TV?

Thanks!

SteveSueMac,

I have about 1" free movement vertically at each side (rocking the head side to side grasping the yoke) when unhitched. There is a very small amount of play vertically between the ball on the PP head and the cup on the AS. This is just normal free play between hitch ball and trailer cup - I'd say about 1/4" maybe less.

The head can also angle side to side for turns of course on the pivot point arms.
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Old 10-01-2015, 08:27 AM   #1252
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Steve my issue wasn't the same. It was a tracking issue. Popping from a large angle is probably just the friction/force in the movement of the tension bars rotating in their sockets. Might not have enough grease or a dry spot.

Having seen the head disassembled and the bearing install it would take a heck of a blow or abuse to damage the bearings. There are two on each side, top and bottom. Pretty massive. Really nothing in there that can pop.

If you can move the head side to side while it is hanging and it moves 'freely' with no noise or binding you should be fine. It does take some push to move it left-right, it isn't sloppy. Up and down with the yoke is pivoting the ball. Maybe your ball is dry and doing the pop sound.
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Old 10-01-2015, 10:36 AM   #1253
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SteveSueMac, the popping may be the receiver end of your stinger that slides into the receiver in your TV. I was chasing a very disconcerting noise for a few months. Thought it was the jack sleeves, greased them, thought it was the straps down from the jacks to the WD bars, greased those. It ended up being the stinger in my receiver. If it has some free play side to side or up and down it will make noise even with a large amount of WD load applied. I made some shims to take out the play. Prior to doing this I would always get a load pop pulling away after hitching up and then noise making turns, particularly if the turn was sharp.

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Old 10-01-2015, 10:39 AM   #1254
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Originally Posted by Ohiobrits View Post
SteveSueMac, the popping may be the receiver end of your stinger that slides into the receiver in your TV. I was chasing a very disconcerting noise for a few months. Thought it was the jack sleeves, greased them, thought it was the straps down from the jacks to the WD bars, greased those. It ended up being the stinger in my receiver. If it has some free play side to side or up and down it will make noise even with a large amount of WD load applied. I made some shims to take out the play. Prior to doing this I would always get a load pop pulling away after hitching up and then noise making turns, particularly if the turn was sharp.

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Ditto!!!
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Old 10-01-2015, 05:57 PM   #1255
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Thanks gang. Lots too options to inspect. Can't get to it this weekend but will report back when I can!
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Old 10-02-2015, 10:02 AM   #1256
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Nice shims, I would definitely not be able to do those. I have the same problem.

Going back to the extra zerk. This is a very stupid question and consider that I know very little of this stuff (installing the ProPride is my greatest achievement, I don't even know how to change oil).

What kind of hardware I need to install my own grease zerk (including sizes and tools) and how would I go about doing it? Explain it like I'm 5 or something . Assume I only have a drill and the basic toolbox.
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Old 10-05-2015, 05:23 PM   #1257
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Steve,

I see maybe couple of vertical inches and several left to right .I had planned to measure, but forgot. I do have play in my receiver for sure, both vertically and side to side. I do get noise on occasion, mostly on a semi aggressive stop or start. I also plan to check greasing ball next time out.

Is it as easy as releasing all WD jacks and raising AS using hitch jack and releasing ball coupler??? Anyone?

Can you believe that the spellchecker on my phone put breastfeeding in the middle of this reponse? How rude!
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:42 PM   #1258
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Steve,

I see maybe couple of vertical inches and several left to right .I had planned to measure, but forgot. I do have play in my receiver for sure, both vertically and side to side. I do get noise on occasion, mostly on a semi aggressive stop or start. I also plan to check greasing ball next time out.

Is it as easy as releasing all WD jacks and raising AS using hitch jack and releasing ball coupler??? Anyone?

Can you believe that the spellchecker on my phone put breastfeeding in the middle of this reponse? How rude!

DoublTrouble - I believe you are right, disconnect the WD bars, release ball coupler and jack up the AS. The yoke at the rear may limit upward movement to some degree. If so, I would think you could carefully move the TV forward to completely remove the head once the ball on the PP clears the AS cup. Have not tried it myself, who wants to give it a go?
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:48 PM   #1259
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Just to clarify, you would want to support the PP head using the stinger inserted into your TV and the PP head as normal (as if you were going to tow). The full weight of the PP head will be supported by the TV this way once you decouple the AS from the PP.
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Old 10-06-2015, 08:59 PM   #1260
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So - would the procedure be:

1) connect like you're going to tow

2) disconnect the WD bars (I assume with those u-bolts at the bottom of the WD jacks?)

3) open the coupler latch

4) lower the tongue jack to drop the ball out of the coupler

5) grease ball then reverse steps

?
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