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Old 07-14-2015, 02:02 PM   #1219
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I feel pretty stupid for not thinking about cranking down the WD jacks. I should have tried that. I will try that next time. The pull up to re-center the head and then back up again is the method I used this time. Thanks for the tips.
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Old 07-14-2015, 02:22 PM   #1220
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Originally Posted by Echelon73 View Post
I feel pretty stupid for not thinking about cranking down the WD jacks. I should have tried that. I will try that next time. The pull up to re-center the head and then back up again is the method I used this time. Thanks for the tips.
There is NO stupidity here. The only time we see stupidity is when someone DOES NOT ask and continue to struggle.

Best of luck with your new hitch and if (we) can help in the future just yell

Doug
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Old 07-18-2015, 08:52 PM   #1221
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Sure thing. I'm just amazed I can find nothing on the jacks themselves! Even the BAL site itself has no information. Just weird!

You might want to call Sean. I don't know how hooking up your WD chains from another hitch might/might not work...

Even if the entire jack is toast, I bet Sean could ship one to you...

Good luck!

Couple of updates. I did speak with Sean and he will send a replacement jack at the end of the month. All his inventory is "on the way out" on hitches. He gave some advice on disassembly which I may try this week if I have time. He suggested inspecting the threaded rod that runs up the center of the jack and cleaning it up if there is some thread damage.

SteveSueMack, BAL has a tongue jack that has the same silver cover and a side manual handle. Sean probably has a version made without the foot would be my guess.
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:28 AM   #1222
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I'm not near my trailer and don't recall where the pin was located but your description sounds right to me. I was at a rally and snapped it with my drill. Bruce helped identify the broken part and told me how to find a replacement at the local hardware store. Then he told me to never use that tool on those jacks again and I said "yes sir"
Interesting, I think we can use drills. If you look at the video #6 on the ProPride site they use a drill. I always use a drill though I move the tongue up to make it easier. If I can't do that (sometimes the WD bars are in the way) I use the drill until it stops and then the wrench.
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Old 07-19-2015, 11:04 AM   #1223
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Interesting, I think we can use drills. If you look at the video #6 on the ProPride site they use a drill. I always use a drill though I move the tongue up to make it easier. If I can't do that (sometimes the WD bars are in the way) I use the drill until it stops and then the wrench.
I do not, nor will I, use a drill. However, I think the proper thing to do is use a drill that will stall before reaching the breaking point of the pin.

It would seem to me to be a good idea if those who use drills post the specs of their drill and whether or not they have broken the pin yet.

Ken
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Old 07-19-2015, 11:08 AM   #1224
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I use a 20V Porter Cable. Torque setting at max. Low speed setting. Two PP's and have not broken a pin. However I did break a pin using the 20V Porter Cable Impact Wrench from the set. Don't use an impact wrench. Pin is easy to replace.
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Old 07-19-2015, 11:28 AM   #1225
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Maintenance recommendations seem to only be tending to the grease zerks on the bars when they become noisy during turns. is there anything else I should be doing?

This thread is so long - I apologize if the information has already been laid out. I just can't seem to search efficiently on my iPhone.
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Old 07-19-2015, 12:08 PM   #1226
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I use a B&D 12v drill, max torque and it stalls about 1/2" before the jack is set right, so I use the supplied wrench for the last bit. Never had a problem with that approach.
As for lube, I have only lubed the zircs(zerks?) and the ball. Do I need to do something with the jacks?

Larry
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Old 07-19-2015, 12:51 PM   #1227
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I have a RYOBI drill 18v P202. I use set 21 (heavy drilling) and low speed (1) - since low has more power and torque.
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Old 07-19-2015, 03:04 PM   #1228
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Rigid impact/drill set to high torque, non-impact, low gear. Tongue jack holding load.
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Old 07-19-2015, 03:29 PM   #1229
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Sorry - I should have said 18v Impact wrench - not electric drill. Don't use those :-)
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Old 07-19-2015, 03:45 PM   #1230
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I use a DeWalt 18v, sometimes on high speed sometimes on low speed. I always raise the front end with the power jack to take the strain off the hitch jacks when raising them. I have never broken a pin, about 20,000 miles of towing but I stopped a few times along the way.
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Old 07-20-2015, 04:20 AM   #1231
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Ditto on using the drill (18 volt craftsman) with the jack raised and then finishing with the wrench. No problems. Routine maintenance with hand grease gun on three zerks. I would not wait until I heard noise to use the grease gun.

>>ron<<
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Old 07-20-2015, 06:23 AM   #1232
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I like to use the stabilizer speed wrench supplied with the Airstream for the ProPride screw jacks, and a compact electric drill for the stabilizers. Snug all of them with the ProPride-supplied ratcheting wrench.
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