The unofficial pp users guide...

[bapp1236]

I had the same issue. And actually figured it out and was able to get it to pull great in calm conditions, but when the wind kicked up it got rally squirrelly. At first the TT still actually swayed because there was abut 1/4" play in the receiver hitch. I finally got all this out by welding and grinding on the bar that goes in the receiver and replacing the pin with a grade 8 bolt and tightened the crap out of it with the breaker bar the comes with the PP. That problem solved, it pull great until the wind gets above 10 mph. At this point, the connection between my TV and TV is so ridged that because of the design of the PP, the wind pushing on the rear of the TT causes the pivot point to become the front axel of ht TV. The result is you have to keep correction the steering direction, which gives the feeling of instability. The higher the wind, the greater the effect until it becomes difficult to keep it in your lane. The result becomes the 40-50 mph travel to keep in control.

This is amplified greatly the longer and taller the TT. Most AS TTs are not as long or tall as regular TTs. This is why a lot of these folks don't have any problems. Ive seen this several times on various forums searching for and answer. The answer is that when you have a large trailer, there a projected pivot is not the same as the real thing that puts the actual pivot point and weight directly over the rear axel. You actually have to live with both to have a point of reference. I will never again have any type of bumper pull camper.

[mojoe7009]

As I mentioned before, I pulled our 30 ft Classic from Jacksonville, Florida to Los Angeles, California and back using a ProPride hitch. Over 6000 miles counting the side trips. We experienced significant winds in New Mexico and Arizona (15-25 mph). My rig felt solid, safe and steady at all times. No sway and never felt like I needed any extra effort to keep it in my lane. We ran a steady 65-70 mph. Not sure what the difference is but that’s my experience.

[Gaberz]

Upon reassembling the stinger after adjusting for the taller height of the new truck, it appears to me and others that the stinger has a bend in it somewhere somehow.
I could see it on the ground, and even more pronounced in the receiver while torquing up the bolts.
I tried to get a few pics but it doesn't seem to show in them for some reason.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by Gaberz

Upon reassembling the stinger after adjusting for the taller height of the new truck, it appears to me and others that the stinger has a bend in it somewhere somehow.

I could see it on the ground, and even more pronounced in the receiver while torquing up the bolts.

I tried to get a few pics but it doesn't seem to show in them for some reason.

Have you called Sean? Please do. I’m not sure how long you’ve had this or whether you bought used (it looks like it’s had plenty of wear and tear from your last pic).

As for the bend - how do you have the safety chains connected when towing? Pls share a pic. That can have something to do with this.

And please call Sean at ProPride and find out what’s wrong with your setup.

Good luck.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by sheriff1

A legend in your own mind...

You don’t understand something this obvious? That the hitch keeps the rig in alignment?

Do some hard-angle throttle-on emergency double lane changes at 55 with a pickup, up past 65 with the best TVs. (Don’t let speed drop). From edge of shoulder to passing lane and back.

Repeat same with fiver. Angle of misalignment at the lower speeds will roll it before its back in travel lane.

What’s the fastest your rig can do this? How many feet of travel before you are down to this speed? I know, and I’d bet you don’t

So who’s assigning himself unearned status? Ha!

And how are WD hitch problems diagnosed? With numbers from a truck scale. The Three Pass Method. Scale numbers for TV tire pressure are also basic. Without such it turns into a goose chase. A time waster.

.

[slowmover]

Originally Posted by ITSNO60

Following this thread as this is the first I have heard of these issues with the PP (with the exception of the bump which I understand can be nearly eliminated with more gain on the trailer brakes) and I was pretty set on getting one.

You’re worried now since some guys don’t know how to set a WD hitch? (Actually it’s 90% of RVers). And haven’t the brains to ask Sean?

These aren’t “issues”. It’s the ignorance from early in the learning curve. Failure to use tools.

[bapp1236]

Originally Posted by slowmover

You’re worried now since some guys don’t know how to set a WD hitch? (Actually it’s 90% of RVers). And haven’t the brains to ask Sean?

These aren’t “issues”. It’s the ignorance from early in the learning curve. Failure to use tools.

With all due respect, your the one without the context and talking out of school. I worked with Sean for over a year and a half until there was nothing else to try. I have a pile of CAT scale tickets at Sean,s request and dozens or pictures of ever aspect of the hitch, the trailer and the TV. I even bought a brand new F350 dually with a powerstroke ($75,000). This is what allowed me to buy the 5er. That helped but didn't cure it.

Sean was very good about responding and trying to help, but it only got to a point where it was only good in calm conditions. I've seen this same problem in many forums with both PP and Hensely and it's primarily with large trailers. I'v come to the conclusion that there is no substitute for the actual pivot point and weight being directly over the rear axel.

In my younger days, I drove an 18 wheeler for over 10 years cross country. I know how a trailer is supposed to pull. My 5er pulls just like the 18 wheeler, stable in all but hurricane winds. I had a deer jump in front of me on the interstate about a month ago while traveling down a grade at about 80 mph. I hit the brakes so hard I had to let up because the 5er locked up (electric over hydraulic). At the same time, I did a hard evaisive steering input manuver to the shoulder of the road hitting the gravels at a bout 60 mph to miss the deer. I missed the deer and and eased back onto the road with no problem except for some pots and pans winding up in the middle of the floor and soiled underwear. I'm sure if I had tried that in my TT the result would have been a disaster. Until you have lived with both types of campers, you have no direct frame of reference. In other words, you don't know bad until you have had good.

[DBinSD]

Originally Posted by Gaberz

...Snip....
The trailer hit us so hard that it actually squealed the back tires as they slid sideways. My passengers thought we got rear ended, and it took me a second to realize what had happened. SCARY stuff! .

I would double check your trailer brakes or the set gain. The TT brakes should have slowed the momentum down enough NOT to push the truck.

I see you have a bigger truck now but, I would highly recommend checking those TT brakes anyway.

Dan

[ROBERT CROSS]

All this talk & conjecture about setting up a ppp and I see no weight tickets, what I did see was a TV that appears a bit squatty in the rear, 😳.

POI...if your TV has a "round bar" receiver, replace it.

Bob
🇺🇸

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by DBinSD

I would double check your trailer brakes or the set gain. The TT brakes should have slowed the momentum down enough NOT to push the truck.

I see you have a bigger truck now but, I would highly recommend checking those TT brakes anyway.

Dan

I think the problem with the bump is that the TV brakes come on first. In a slow, controlled stop, that doesn't matter; the TT brakes come on before the bump occurs. In a panic stop the truck is stopping HARD from the get-go. Even the short delay of the drums may become significant (discs are worse) and you get the bump. Some controllers sense the brake light to determine that braking is occurring but use an inertial sensor to determine how hard to brake. They have to sense the truck stopping before they fully actuate the TT brakes. My integrated brake controller plugs into the OBDII port and apparently senses how hard the brakes are being applied because even at a standstill the braking level for the TT is proportional to the pedal pressure. Some, like the P3, have a boost mode that starts the TT braking at a higher level. That may be the difference between the electric and electric over hydraulic settings on the integrated controllers. Even if one has electric brakes, it might be worth a try to see if stopping is better controlled in the EOH mode. I tried it when I was trying to determine whether to upgrade to discs. I couldn't tell any difference in my tests but I was doing slow, controlled stops.



Al

[VTSmitty]

We are on our annual four month, 10K mile road trip, and this year's route took us through Grand Blanc, MI. Several months ago we had arranged with Sean to have him do an overhaul of our five year old unit as we passed through, and it went without a hitch (no pun intended). We arrived mid day on Wednesday, dropped off the hitch, and spent the night at the nearby Groveland Oaks County Park - a great place. By late the next morning the hitch was ready, and it looks like a brand new unit. Sean, his father, and his son got it all reinstalled in short order, and we were on our way again quickly.

I've loved that hitch for around 40K miles, and just the short trip to the park and back on a ball reminded me why. The rig bows in the middle, you can feel the trailer moving the truck, and it just didn't feel solid. It was great to get the refurbished hitch back on, the truck tows level and straight and you never know you are in a crosswind unless you notice the trees bending.

If you get a chance and are in the area, pay them a visit. If you don't want a full overhaul, it's worth it just to have Sean take a look at your setup to ensure it's all dialed in correctly.

[SteveSueMac]

What did the refurb run you if you don’t mind sharing?

[VTSmitty]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

What did the refurb run you if you don’t mind sharing?

$300, worth it.

Dan

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by VTSmitty

$300, worth it.



Dan

Seems very reasonable! Thanks!

[james.mileur]

Originally Posted by VTSmitty

We are on our annual four month, 10K mile road trip, and this year's route took us through Grand Blanc, MI. Several months ago we had arranged with Sean to have him do an overhaul of our five year old unit as we passed through, and it went without a hitch (no pun intended). We arrived mid day on Wednesday, dropped off the hitch, and spent the night at the nearby Groveland Oaks County Park - a great place. By late the next morning the hitch was ready, and it looks like a brand new unit. Sean, his father, and his son got it all reinstalled in short order, and we were on our way again quickly.

I've loved that hitch for around 40K miles, and just the short trip to the park and back on a ball reminded me why. The rig bows in the middle, you can feel the trailer moving the truck, and it just didn't feel solid. It was great to get the refurbished hitch back on, the truck tows level and straight and you never know you are in a crosswind unless you notice the trees bending.

If you get a chance and are in the area, pay them a visit. If you don't want a full overhaul, it's worth it just to have Sean take a look at your setup to ensure it's all dialed in correctly.

Another great enroute destination stop. Thanks for the tip. Who knew you could get a bit of new pushed back into a great piece of gear so cheap and fast.

[nryn]

Quick question for ProPride users—do any of you use a 12v instead of an 18v drill for tensioning? I have a few (great) 12V drills in my woodshop and would love to pack one of those in my trailer rather than getting a larger one.

[rmkrum]

I don't use a drill for tensioning...there is a risk of breaking a shear pin in the top of the jack with too much power/torque. Right now I'm cranking them by hand. Eventually I'm installing a set of power-operated jacks with remote control because a) I'm old, tired, and lazy, and b) I'm currently the department head of the Department of Overkill Engineering.

That said, I have 20-volt Dewalt tools that have tons of torque if needed and battery life that is decent. Just don't use an impact driver--use a drill with a torque-limiter adjustment setup and dial it down a bit.

[glcmranger]

I use an 18V Dewalt. I was told DO NOT use an IMPACT drill.

[james.mileur]

Have always used an 18v Makita, except when I couldn't find that adapter doo-hicky. If your 12v will turn the nut, torque on!

[Al and Missy]

I use an 18V Ryobi. Starts to bog down right where I want to set it. I don't think there is any risk of shearing a pin with it.

Al