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Old 04-20-2015, 06:35 PM   #1135
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Also suggest marking the correct centered location so you can easily inspect.

I've not had any yoke movement even with fairly extreme angles when backing the AS.

I suspect it's designed to slip a bit under unusual force instead of breaking easily replaceable spare parts like other designs. I love my PP hitch and the way it keeps the AS tracking my admittedly almost marginal TV.


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Old 04-20-2015, 07:32 PM   #1136
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Yes, it is designed to "slip" if the twist exceeds design.

Check out your assembly of parts. Is there a washer under the lock washer on the u-bolts?
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Old 04-20-2015, 08:01 PM   #1137
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Thanks to all responses. I understand that slippage is part of the system (so it doesn't break) so I'm okay re-centering if necessary. I was worried about the torque though.

I ended up e-mailing Sean and he told me I don't have to worry if it's only 3/8 of an inch though I can recenter if I want to do it. Also the torque should be 50 ft-lbs.

I'll keep an eye on it. Our first trip is on May 1st, we'll see.

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Yes, it is designed to "slip" if the twist exceeds design.

Check out your assembly of parts. Is there a washer under the lock washer on the u-bolts?
I'm not near the trailer right now but I believe I followed the instructions to the letter. I think it's only the nut and a lock washer.
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Old 04-21-2015, 11:12 AM   #1138
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If one gets too enthusiastic tightening the U-bolts, they bend the curve on the bottom of the U-bolt for the jacks or bend the plates on the centering bracket.

The two yoke nuts that get 250 ft pounds were a real challenge for me. I got a Harbor Freight ¾" torque wrench and a snap-on socket and a piece of 1.25" pipe as a leverage extender for the wrench to get that much torque applies.
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Old 04-23-2015, 01:13 AM   #1139
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Bought a 250 foot-pound torque wrench from Harbor Freight and had to put a lot of force on it. It's about two feet long, so I had lo really lean on it to get it to click. Biggest issue was holding the head of the bolt still. Used a big breaker bar that came with the hitch strategically up against part of the hitch. Then had to deal with getting it nab off the head of the bolt. Hope daughter does not remember some of the words I was muttering. 😁


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Old 06-07-2015, 07:46 PM   #1140
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When I am towing and leave my driveway and pull onto the street, and when I return and back into the driveway, the AS curb side raises up 9.75 inches relative to the TV. The TV is level in the street while the AS lifts up on the curb side almost 10 inches. There is a lot of twist at the ball hitch. PP looks like to me to be a square peg in a square hole. Anyone know where that twist stress goes in the ProPride?
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:28 PM   #1141
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When I am towing and leave my driveway and pull onto the street, and when I return and back into the driveway, the AS curb side raises up 9.75 inches relative to the TV. The TV is level in the street while the AS lifts up on the curb side almost 10 inches. There is a lot of twist at the ball hitch. PP looks like to me to be a square peg in a square hole. Anyone know where that twist stress goes in the ProPride?
I'm guessing that this is happening because the street and your driveway are not on the same plane. That is a fairly drastic difference. My initial thought is that this much twist would not be a good situation for any weight distribution hitch. I would get in touch with Sean at ProPride and see what he has to say.

Ken
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Old 06-07-2015, 11:44 PM   #1142
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I made ramps for our AS... yes, there is a lot of 'difference' in height as we drive in ... curb side up first.. so, we just let it 'roll'.. the 'twist' isn't as bad...with the ramps...
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Old 06-08-2015, 06:23 AM   #1143
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I have a similar off camber situation for backing into my back yard

Sean assured me that with the WD bars loose - I would be fine - so far no ill effects

He explained back then that there is twist allowed in the hitch

In my case when I loosen up then back - it I believe does tend to push down some on one side of the weight distribution bars causing it to sorta flare out some with the downward pressure

I leave on a trip in less than 2 weeks - I'll have my wife video tape this exit and entry for review


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Old 06-23-2015, 12:45 PM   #1144
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For the life of me, I can't figure out two things:

1. On uneven ground, how do I know when pressure has been taken off the tow vehicle? Meaning, when I'm hooked up (and want to unhitch). Every time I unhitch, there's friction on the stinger. I'd like to learn how to just "glide out". On flat ground, I know I can measure the wheel well height and then match it, but that doesn't work on un level ground.

2. Hooking up on un level ground: I can't seem to do this easily either.

Any advice would be awesome.
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Old 06-23-2015, 01:23 PM   #1145
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Usually if you watch the hitch head on the trailer, where the locking pin is, when it starts to release you will see the edge of the hitch lift up just slightly.

Or if you don't see it you can try to wiggle the head, the part the stinger plugs into. It should have some play when it isn't under tension. On my setup I have a set of RockTamer mudflaps attached to the top of the stinger and I can grab that and if it wiggles I am good to go.

Hooking up back up until the stinger is close to plugging in. Check for vertical alignment and then plug in. Make sure you are plugging in with everything in alignment. Don't be at an angle as you may not be able to retract the jack if it hangs up on the tension bars.
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Old 06-23-2015, 01:40 PM   #1146
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I had a similar problem until I decided to measure the height of the stinger on the truck trailer unhooked. Now, hooked up, I adjust the electric jack to bring the stinger to that height and the stinger slips right out. I put a piece of tape on the socket wrench handle at the correct height.
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Old 06-23-2015, 10:19 PM   #1147
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I just had an odd issue with Un-hitching on Saturday at the start of our vacation.

Never have yet had a problem - we watch the coupler (or whatever you call it) and as soon as it moves independent of the PP hitch - we are good and that has worked fine so far.

But I for the life of me could not see it move much on Saturday....I kept going up up up and only saw a faint movement indicative of what I think was it loose. I knew something was perhaps out of line....

So the. I got to fiddling with the jacks...and after many attempts - I gave up and went back to loosening the jacks until they were just loose then went down on the jack till I saw what I thought was the loose moment.

Then when I loosened the bolts - the stinger popped out half and then moved a bit later before stopping - all in all the trailer moved approximately 3 inches backward and 1 inch lateral

This was my first attempt using the Anderson Levelers and it was on gravel and I used standard chocks (plastic) on the other side....

I think what had happened was that while I had chocked things off - things had not settled in? And it was not allowing things to get loose as usual

The trailer was still in good level despite the shift

Now re-hitching will be a possible challenge as I had to fiddle with the WD jacks to get them from the cock eyed position the setup was in - I'm confident hitching will not be a big deal though

I'm not entirely sure how to prevent this?

Perhaps put the truck in neutral and let things settle and see how it settles - then go down - that seems like it would work to me.


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Old 06-23-2015, 10:43 PM   #1148
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Ya know there are times when I'm perfect with connecting. Then there are those times when the truck is rising out of a gutter and it's tricky. Sometimes I cannot explain it ,but patience is the key.
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