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Old 11-12-2014, 04:38 PM   #1121
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The way I do it is to drop the jack down a bit, put my fingertips on the top of the hitch with the sides of my fingers against the hitch cup, then raise the jack until I feel the two surfaces move apart. I started doing this in the dark when I could not see the relative motion; now I do it all the time. There is just room for my fingers and no chance of getting pinched.

Oh, and ,make sure the tension on the jacks is released for sure.
This is a really good tip John. I do mine a little different as I have Rock Tamers attached to my stinger and I jiggle the Tamer Bar till it pops the stinger loose out of the hitch. You can actually see it separate by giggling it.

When you say you put your finger against the "Hitch Cup". Are you talking about the cup that the stinger slides into? I'm assuming you are but I might be wrong.

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Old 11-13-2014, 08:14 AM   #1122
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When you say you put your finger against the "Hitch Cup". Are you talking about the cup that the stinger slides into? I'm assuming you are but I might be wrong.

Cheers
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No. I meant the cup on the front of the trailer A-frame into which the ball inserts. There is just enough space between that cup and the shield on top of the PP for my fingers to slip in with the fingertips on the PP and the sides of my fingers against the cup. Easy to reach the jack switch from there. That way, I can instantly feel when the cup starts to lift off of the ball. That's the place where the stinger will come out most easily.
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:27 AM   #1123
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Put the jack down so that the it just starts to lift the tongue. Remove the chains/electrical/break away, release tension on the tension jacks. Then just watch the hitch ball head. Start the jack in the up direction. You should, at some point, see the head of the hitch (the airstream grey bit where the ball of the ProPride or a normal towing ball sits) start to lift. It only moves about 1/4 inch upwards. Stop. You should be good to release the catches. Most of the time you can almost do them without the wrench tool.

If you don't see it move up then lower back down a bit and try again.

Same thing John is doing above where he has his fingers on the ball cup.
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Old 11-13-2014, 10:45 AM   #1124
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Thanks Gary: Yes I think John's process is only different because he is using his finger to feel the movement. If I remember right he said that came about as a result of unhooking in the dark a few times....

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Old 11-13-2014, 11:31 AM   #1125
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Thanks Gary: Yes I think John's process is only different because he is using his finger to feel the movement. If I remember right he said that came about as a result of unhooking in the dark a few times....

Cheers
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Exactly. I just feel the relative motion of the ball and cup instead of watching for it. That's the only way in the dark and easy to do anytime. There is just enough space between the shield on top of the PP and the cup for my fingers to fit. No danger of getting pinched.
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Old 11-13-2014, 11:46 AM   #1126
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As I said in an earlier post I find it more reliable with a measurement. I measured the height of the top of the receiver with the trailer disconnected and put a piece of tape on the wrench handle at that point. I raise the trailer with the tongue jack to loosen the wd bars, then match the truck height to the tape and it slides right out.
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Old 11-13-2014, 12:03 PM   #1127
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As I said in an earlier post I find it more reliable with a measurement. I measured the height of the top of the receiver with the trailer disconnected and put a piece of tape on the wrench handle at that point. I raise the trailer with the tongue jack to loosen the wd bars, then match the truck height to the tape and it slides right out.

Larry

This is a good one too!
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Old 11-13-2014, 01:15 PM   #1128
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As I said in an earlier post I find it more reliable with a measurement. I measured the height of the top of the receiver with the trailer disconnected and put a piece of tape on the wrench handle at that point. I raise the trailer with the tongue jack to loosen the wd bars, then match the truck height to the tape and it slides right out.
Larry
What do you do when you're parked in a campground that is not level?

Any method is hard for me because my Sequoia starts to work on the air bags and I have to move it quickly before it changes the height of the car. Waiting for it to stabilize won't work because as soon as I fixed with the new height it'll start fixing itself again.
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Old 11-13-2014, 01:21 PM   #1129
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I cannot comment on your airbag system but I have not had an issue with level as the truck must be at its unloaded height for the stinger to slide out so getting it to that height is what counts. It is just as important to insure that the WD jacks are completely loose, especially on unlevel parking spots.
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Old 11-13-2014, 05:39 PM   #1130
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I watch for the rise off the ball, plus kick the WD bars to make sure all is loose. Rarely had trouble unhitching.


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Old 04-20-2015, 12:51 PM   #1131
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So as I am preparing the trailer for this season I noticed that the frame bracket is off center by 3/8 inches (a little bit less than half an inch).

In the past I had to re-center it a couple of times and last time I really tighten the nuts.

Should I recenter and re-tightened them just because of this difference? I'm afraid of breaking the nuts in the process or not to tighten them enough - which would make it off center again, maybe even worse.
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Old 04-20-2015, 12:56 PM   #1132
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It really needs to be centered. If you break something tightening it a call to Sean will get replacement parts. You could try shimming the u-bolts on the yoke next to the A frame with some metal shims to prevent shifting.

If it keeps shifting, give Sean a call and see if he has any ideas. He's very good at supporting his products.


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Old 04-20-2015, 01:47 PM   #1133
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I asked last year on torque for the nuts. I think it was 40#. Don't crank them down to tight.
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Old 04-20-2015, 06:20 PM   #1134
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So as I am preparing the trailer for this season I noticed that the frame bracket is off center by 3/8 inches (a little bit less than half an inch).

In the past I had to re-center it a couple of times and last time I really tighten the nuts.

Should I recenter and re-tightened them just because of this difference? I'm afraid of breaking the nuts in the process or not to tighten them enough - which would make it off center again, maybe even worse.

I've had to do this a couple times. I don't think there's a torque spec in the user guide on those particular bolts and I wonder if I've tightened them enough - I think it shifts on the rare occasion (once a year?) when I'm backing in to a spot at a severe angle. When it's off center, I get noticeable porpoising. Centered - it's perfect.

Use some WD-40 and call Sean be sure you have the correct replacement bolts in advance just in case you do break them (I don't think you will but I don't know how long they've been on).

Good luck!
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