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Old 11-25-2009, 07:06 AM   #141
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2airishuman,

I would only add a procedure that I use when tightening the bolts in the stinger (relevant to your post number 133). Before I tighten the bolts, I put a floor jack under the rear of the stinger and force it into the upper most position, where it should be after the WD forces are put onto it.

I do this on any hitch that has slots and a rivet to stop the movement. By doing this, I am assured the adjustment is against the rivet stop, and not somewhere in the adjustment of the slots. Not necessary for sure, but just gives me a little peace of mind that I had the adjustment correct when I tightened the bolts and it did not slip while tightening.
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Old 11-25-2009, 11:54 AM   #142
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...Before I tighten the bolts, I put a floor jack under the rear of the stinger and force it into the upper most position, where it should be after the WD forces are put onto it...
good idea steveH!

i fiddle around with lifting on the stinger while tightening,

and never considered using the jack that was right behind me, DUH!

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-25-2009, 10:05 PM   #143
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Hi, and if you don't have a jack, shame on you; You can insert the stinger into your receiver upside down and gravity will hold it in place while you tighten the bolts.
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Old 11-26-2009, 06:41 AM   #144
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Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, and if you don't have a jack, shame on you; You can insert the stinger into your receiver upside down and gravity will hold it in place while you tighten the bolts.
Bob, That's a good idea. On just about any other hitch, I'm sure it would work great. However, at least on my paticular ProPride, the fit was very tight, and I had trouble getting it to adjust, so used the floor jack procedure.

It was almost too tight, but I guess that's a lot better than too loose.
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Old 11-30-2009, 09:46 PM   #145
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Originally Posted by moosetags View Post
In the most recent edition of the Hensley Safe Towing Newsletter there is an article about Hensley trying to develop their own height-adjustable hitch bar. Hensley discontinued this project when their test showed that it could not be made strong enough to handle the extreme tensions put on the hitch bar by the weight distribution function and the lateral tensions of the sway control function. Hensley claims that a welded hitch bar is the only way to go.

Is this sour grapes, or is there something to this information? Having two different tow vehicles, I would love to have a height-adjustable hitch bar.

What are your thoughts?

Brian

Hey Brian,

I'm not sure I saw an answer to this so I thought I'd chime in.

Their answer is ALWAYS they tried it and it didn't work. They say the same thing about the yoke. I guess I had my head under the desk for all the years they were trying these ideas with none of them working. I was only the vice president of the company and had lunch with the owner on an almost daily basis when he wasn't in Florida. All the trying of different parts and designs must have been HIGHLY classified. {sarcasm intended}

It works GREAT. In fact, every other hitch company on the planet has figured out how to make an adjustable hitch bar work.

You can draw your own conclusions as to why they can't.

Sorry about the hijack 2Air'. Sometimes I just can't help myself.

This is a GREAT thread and has been VERY helpful to a number of people who have decided to become new ProPride hitch owners.
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Old 12-02-2009, 10:47 AM   #146
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Big Brown Truck delivered my PP today. Its raining here so I'll install it tomorrow, but for now, let me just say that this hitch is pure beef. Pictures do not do it justice. Well packaged too.
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Old 12-02-2009, 11:03 AM   #147
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2air,

Is there any appreciable difference between the PP and HaHa in terms of backing up?
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Old 12-02-2009, 12:44 PM   #148
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...Pictures do not do it justice. Well packaged too.
yep the packaging is really something.

i was planning to post pics of the 'pak in place' expanding foam.

it's amazing stuff and SO much better than the cardboard internals used by the other brand.

with parts that weight so much ANY movement inside a normal box results in cosmetic damage to the contents.

this is NOT an issue with the pp packaging.

i am SURE sean spent time AND effort and $ getting this packaging issue right.

gotta love attention to details, even the wrapper.
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Quote:
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...Is there any appreciable difference between the PP and HaHa in terms of backing up?
hi aage

no not really.

they both FIRST move the tongue slightly L/R before the wheels start rolling.

the jacks are slightly different and the yoke replaces the 'strut bars' so there are some subtle differences...

but from a functional view backing is the same.

as covered in the haha thread, one can use must sharper angles when backing or turning...

and THAT is an acquired skill or booby trap.

DISCONNECTING is somewhat easier with the pp since the hitch head/box seems to LET GO of the stinger with less fiddling.
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do you have a specific concern or issue?

are u thinking about using one of these contraptions?

tell us more.

cheers
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Old 12-02-2009, 02:21 PM   #149
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Well, it quit raining, so I have begun the install. So far I've got the stinger set up for my rig, but I've ran into a small issue with the W/D jacks. The adjustment bolt that you tighten against the frame is about 2" too long due to interference with my battery box. The other I think has been mentioned, I need to get a little longer bolts and a few washers to space the LP tank base about 0.5" off the frame to clear the u-bolts for the yoke crossmember. Nothing a quick trip to Lowes can't fix.
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Old 12-02-2009, 02:27 PM   #150
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Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
...The adjustment bolt that you tighten against the frame is about 2" too long due to interference with my battery box. The other I think has been mentioned, I need to get a little longer bolts and a few washers to space the LP tank base about 0.5" off the frame to clear the u-bolts for the yoke crossmember. Nothing a quick trip to Lowes can't fix.
right u are!

the long bolt/short bolt issue is covered by devo in post #39...

1/2 inch full thread in 1.5-2.5 inches can be substituted OR SHORTEN the ones shipped.

devo also did the LP tray/tank lift mod in post #40...

and you may end up cutting OFF the forward jack guards/bumpers to properly fit the LP tank cover, see post #43.

don't forget to take pics and hang 'em here !

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-02-2009, 07:59 PM   #151
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Okay, on my list...

INCLUDE the shorter adjustment bolts along with the longer bolts we now send.

The longer bolts were meant to kill two birds with one stone (bolt). If a trailer has a C-Channel frame the longer bolts will reach all the way under the flange of the 'C' and all the way to the upright of the 'C'. That's the reasoning.

Anyway, I know it won't help Airstream01 but it will help in the future.
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Old 12-03-2009, 07:46 AM   #152
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So I was doing a little research last night on bolt torques. I tend to overthink things, and there was a line in the PP instructions that gave me pause. On page 21 it states: "Check that the hitch bar bolts are tight and torqued. These should be as tight as you can get them. 150 ft-lbs or more of torque."

Now an over-torqued bolt is on its way towards failure, so I did a little research to determine the SAE rated torque spec for the primary load bearing bolts in the PP hitch apparatus.

For the 5/8-11 grade 8 bolts used on the stinger, the max torque is 190 ft-lbs
For the 3/4-16 grade 5 bolts used on the yoke, the max torque is 270 ft-lbs

Basically my point is do not tighten any of these bolts as tight as you can get them, especially if using a 4ft cheater bar. Use a torque wrench properly rated for the amount of torque. And if I remember correctly you should ideally use a large enough torque wrench so that the value you need to reach (ie 250 ft-lbs) falls within a 20%-80% range of the max rating of the wrench. So in this case you'd want the torque wrench to be rated to around 325 ft-lbs so the 250 ft-lbs falls in that range.
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:42 AM   #153
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2air, on post 17 your photos clearly show you have the big arse flat washers on both sides of the bronze bushing. The instructions do not mention this (unless I missed it--quite possible), but only say to put one flat washer under the head of each big arse bolt. I believe the way you have it is correct, however and will be how I am going to install it in a few minutes.

Sean, is this the correct way? Thanks

Brian
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Old 12-03-2009, 10:48 AM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
2air, on post 17 your photos clearly show you have the big arse flat washers on both sides of the bronze bushing. The instructions do not mention this (unless I missed it--quite possible), but only say to put one flat washer under the head of each big arse bolt. I believe the way you have it is correct, however and will be how I am going to install it in a few minutes.

Sean, is this the correct way? Thanks

Brian

Yes, one on each side of the bronze bushing.

Previously, we only used one washer but I changed it to one on each side just because it made more sense to me.


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Old 12-03-2009, 11:06 AM   #155
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Houston, we have a problem

Installing the yoke, and I've ran into a fairly serious problem that I'm not sure I can fix. The nut holder for the left yoke bolt is either too large, or the hole for the yoke bolt was drilled wrong. Based on what I can tell, it appears to me the bolt is drilled a little too far forward as the yoke looks a little canted when you insert the bolt.

Photos:

Good side, and how it should look.


Bad side, not good.
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Old 12-03-2009, 12:57 PM   #156
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Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
So I was doing a little research last night on bolt torques. I tend to overthink things...
we must have attended the same school...

it's not over thinking at all, i had the same questions, having stretched/broken several studs one of the trailer hubs last year.

the table u found is GOOD info.

always be careful using an extension/cheater bar, with the UPPER limits of torque.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
...post 17 your photos clearly show you have the big arse flat washers on both sides of the bronze bushing. The instructions do not mention this...
again, good catch brian.

there are several 'hummms' in the official instructions...

some appear to be a result of UPdates to the product,

while others are just really tortured usage of our native language and grammar...

this is part of the reason i posted the 'quick steps' for install.

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-03-2009, 01:11 PM   #157
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Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
Installing the yoke, and I've ran into a fairly serious problem that I'm not sure I can fix. The nut holder for the left yoke bolt is either too large, or the hole for the yoke bolt was drilled wrong. Based on what I can tell, it appears to me the bolt is drilled a little too far forward as the yoke looks a little canted when you insert the bolt...
hummm...

i had ONE that was snug and attributed it to a little THICKER powder coat on the nut holder.

by placing the nut first, then screwing in the bolt (withOUT the yoke) i was able to get it started and compress the snugness away...

doesn't look like you can do that.

i'm sure you considered these quick adaptions...

-grind the nut holder down a few millimeters...
-
-use a LONGER bolt on that side of the yoke, so that the nut is PAST the nut holder, then lock it down with another nut...

since you are headed OUT soon, i think you'll need a temporary fix.

then perhaps sean can SHIP the corrected parts to JACKSON CENTER, where u can make a proper fix.
__________

keep in mind i'm just a regular user like the rest of us.

cheers
2air'
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Old 12-03-2009, 03:47 PM   #158
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Yeah, I tried puttlng the nut in and then starting the bolt-no go. I called Sean, directed him to the post and said he didn't think grinding the nut down a little would weaken it substantially, so thats what I did. I then polished the area I ground to prevent any crack propagation from the grinding gouges. I'm going to keep an eye on it. The nut does carry load both axially and radially and if I see any cracks develop, I'll pull it and go buy a Grade 8 nut and grind it down, and if that fails I'll push for warranty replacement of the hitch head.

Ground down and polished nut


So I got everything installed and got the stinger set at one hole away from max drop (~7" I think), the only problem is even tightening with a jack under the stinger, and no washers under the adjuster rivet (placed in the top hole) the stinger is still canted down just a hair (see photos). Is it acceptable to just not use the rivet? Do I place it in the bottom hole? Is the stinger OK as it sits? I'd prefer it level, but I know next to nothing about W/D hitches (well I do understand how they work) and if it is advantageous to
have it canted down a little I suppose I can live with it.





As far as hitch height and all, how do you all think it looks? I could probably stand to go a little more on the jacks, but do you all think I should go up another notch on the stinger? I haven't been to a scale yet, but plan to go tomorrow.







Finally I performed the patented Inland Andy "jump on the hitch" test. Its pretty soft so should be good to go.

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Old 12-03-2009, 04:05 PM   #159
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hi brian

GOOD PICS!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
...he didn't think grinding the nut down a little would weaken it substantially, so thats what I did...
i put this in my suggested fixes initially, then deleted it because it doesn't seem like a good idea, long term.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
...Is the stinger OK as it sits? I'd prefer it level...
dead level isn't critical, but a tiny bit up/down really depends on IDEAL drop...

for example if ideal is 'in between 2 holes, a little UP or down from the closest hole would be good.

i would prefer a little UP rather than down, IF the truck rear is sinking with hook up.

you COULD grind down the rivet head a bit (make it flatter) this should bring it closer to level.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
...As far as hitch height and all, how do you all think it looks?... do you all think I should go up another notch on the stinger?...
what was the receiver box height UN hitched? (see post #129)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstream01 View Post
...I could probably stand to go a little more on the jacks...
eye balling the pics, the truck looks LOW in the rear, while the trailer looks pretty level.

((this could just be my imagination or the natural curve in the earth...))

AFTER you finish LOADING the truck bed, it's gonna be even lower...

that suggests MORE jack-w/d bar tension is needed.

without SCALE readings the next closest method for dialing in JACK/spring bar tension is...

1.-measure the truck wheel well heights at all 4 corners UN hitched...
2.-then hook up and measure the drop at the rear axle and RISE at the front axle..
3. then using the screw jacks, approximate the drop/stance so that it's equal front/back, relative to the readings in #1.

IF the head lights are riding UP/shining high, and the steering is LIGHT...

MORE JACK/spring bar tension is needed.



cheers
2air'
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Old 12-03-2009, 04:32 PM   #160
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looking more carefully at your side pics...

-the hitch HEAD is pointing/slanted UP slightly...

((which might just be 'matching' the stinger tilt))

-and u selected the 2nd from the top? hole on the lower jack-w/d bar extensions ((spring bar links)).
____________

almost EVERY haha/pp i've seen is slanted DOWNWARD slightly at the front after proper tensioning...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...own-24356.html

that is partly a function of jack tension (and partly related to haha design)

but combine that with the LENGTHENED jack bars ((spring bar links)) and

my conclusion is there is NOT enough jack tension.

w/d gear ONLY functions (redistributes) if adequate TENSION is placed on the w/d bars...

and that's keeping in mind you have got that HEAVY FRONT bumper thing...

the 'jumping jack dance' has no place in this thread, really.

it is absurd in the extreme.

but your video is fun to view, brokked leg and all!

it's like an 'out take' from hitchcock's vertigo...

cheers
2air'
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