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Old 08-28-2017, 09:58 AM   #1541
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Without having exact measurements, I've got about 2.5" raised at neutral. I put 4" on top of that to apply WD. There's some assumptions built into that, as I've not had a chance to get back to the Smart Weigh scales near me to verify.
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Old 08-28-2017, 10:10 AM   #1542
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Without having exact measurements, I've got about 2.5" raised at neutral. I put 4" on top of that to apply WD. There's some assumptions built into that, as I've not had a chance to get back to the Smart Weigh scales near me to verify.
Thanks Dave,

I should have also asked, what is your TT and TV, as the amount of WD applied appears to depend on the stiffness of the suspension and apparently the engine weight in addition to the tongue weight. It took way more WD to affect my Ram 2500 diesel than my F-150 V-8. I suppose that is to be expected since the rear squat and front lift with the Ram was half or less of that with the F-150.

At the moment I'm still going on wheel well measurements. When I think I have that close, I'll go weigh.

Al
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Old 08-28-2017, 11:04 AM   #1543
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You're welcome, Al! I should've thought of that, too! I've got a 2012 GMC 2500HD and an '05 Safari 30-ft bunkhouse with a measured tongue weight of 1,000 lbs.
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Old 08-28-2017, 08:04 PM   #1544
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Our setups are comparable then, except you have GMC and I have Ram. I measured my WD jack slack and it is substantially more than yours at 4". My receiver slants up quite a bit due to front end squat with the Cummins diesel. I currently have 5 washers in it and it is just level at rest and has a slight down slant when loaded.

I'm taking the trailer back to storage tomorrow and will have a nice level place to fine tune everything. My driveway slants in two directions and is short and narrow.

Al
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Old 09-01-2017, 12:12 AM   #1545
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its manageable, but It is definitely not as stable as a fifth wheel, which was what is was my expectation based on the hype. Here's a quote from the Jayco forum from someone experiencing the same problem.

"Okay, I was trying to find the strand where someone talked about a "wiggle" and I was thinking it was in a Propride strand. (Was on my phone and thought easier to reply on computer). So this is not the strand but thought you might find this interesting anyway.
Mocad: I have a Blue Ox on my WhiteHawk 21FBS and I have an extremely difficult time getting all of the tension off it to disconnect; almost raise TV off ground. The conjecture is that there's something about the way the Blue Ox has two stabilizing components and both put pressure on the ball. And that frame is different on those units, receiver is more "up" or something. Plus the trailer has now been lowered 3 times; dealer simply set it up too high so that did help. So a combination of my inexperience and the dealers with that system probably all contributes. Anyway, the tension bar finally got me and I ended up in the emergency room.
In the process of thinking about a different WDH, I finally decided to "put out" for a Hensley or Propride. I hesitate to put this conversation here because the guy at Hensley I talked to really hesitated on answering me; he did not want to mudsling but I asked the question as to why I would go with a Hensley rather than a Propride (other than the modification needed to TV) After stammering around a bit, he finally said the model Propride is using was a hitch they had developed that they had finally rejected. I can't find my notes from that conversation now but I'm almost certain that he said it sometimes had a wiggle and they never could engineer it out so they discarded the design. So maybe ProPride has addressed that issue now or maybe it's the same hitch. The guy who does Propride was a sales rep for Hensley, not an engineer. Just informational for what it's worth. And even if it does wiggle sometimes, it's probably still a very good system. I am getting a Hensley installed this week and will cross my fingers I can hitch on my own!"
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Old 09-01-2017, 06:20 AM   #1546
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I usually have mine set between 6 and 7 inches depending on the load. This last trip, it was 6.5. I have 5 washers installed. I think Sean at Propride mentioned anything between 5-7 is normal depending on type of TT and the load.
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Old 09-01-2017, 06:23 AM   #1547
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Al, stinger should be level unloaded; sounds like pointed down a bit past level may be the ticket to give your WD jacks some operating space.
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File Type: pdf ProPride 3P Hitch Installation and Operation.pdf (713.5 KB, 41 views)
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Old 09-04-2017, 07:59 PM   #1548
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I wanted to drop the stinger one hole to level my TT, and add washers to get a down angle; to my surprise, there is significant clearance in the 2" receiver collar to pull the truck end hitch bar up and move the stinger end up 1.5". I was able to add 2 washers (max for the clearance to reassemble the through bolts), resulting in a slight down angle even when I pull up to eliminate the slop, as it would with WD jacks.

Any recommendations to eliminate the slop or just let the WD jacks do it?
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Old 09-05-2017, 08:34 AM   #1549
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Sway and Porpoising Solved

As it turns out, I had a very similar problem because of slack in my receiver hitch, which was a 2-inch factory in on a 2016 Ford F1 50. I looked at al lot of hitches an all have this slop. I have worked a lot with Sean to make sure that the heat was set up correctly; however, its still exhibited the same traits, which was a porpoising over large dips in the road. six-inch sway at the rear of the trailer and porpoising over large dips in the road with my 7500 lb. + trailer. This happens because the slop in the receiver allows for an unchecked pivot point side-to-side and up-and-down. How I finally solved the problem was three-fold. (1. I welded beads and ground them flat on the top front and rear bottom of the drawbar at near the exit of receiver. This took 99% of the up-and- down slop out of the drawbar. (2. I drilled a hole as close as possible at the front of the receiver and welded an , grade 8 nut over the hole. This allowed for me to put a grade 8 set screw/bolt to take up the side slop. (3. I replaced the 5/8 hitch pin with a 3.5 grade 8 bolt and nut and tighten it up with the breaker bar that comes with the PP for the over center latches. I can now add all the weight I need to load the front axle unloaded weight or more if I desire. My upright jacks went from 8 to 6.5. I can now cruze all day long keeping up with interstate traffic at 75-80 mph. Big trucks no longer push when passing or being passed. I dont have sway or the porpoising I used to have that made me almost trade in my rig for a motorhome. Hope this helps
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Old 09-05-2017, 08:42 AM   #1550
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Thanks, was thinking my receiver locking pin might be a place I could eliminate some slop. You believe the up & down slop occurred even with your WD jacks up at 8"? I eliminated porpoising with moving 4" to 6". I think if the receiver was floating up and down on gyrations, pivoting on the pin, it would sound like a sledge hammer.
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Old 09-05-2017, 08:53 AM   #1551
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Bapp, do you have a link for those phone app remote controlled jack power heads you mentioned?
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Old 09-05-2017, 12:49 PM   #1552
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I wrote it myself. I can send the apk. file (Android), but you have to make a controller to run a set of relays. I used an audrino as the brain. I wrote the code for that also. I can send both files if you want.
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Old 09-05-2017, 01:39 PM   #1553
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bapp1236, would you post a photo of your F-150/ProPride/35.5' Airstream Classic 30 combination?
Along with a photo of the power heads on your ProPride w.d. jacks.
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Old 09-05-2017, 02:16 PM   #1554
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I wrote it myself. I can send the apk. file (Android), but you have to make a controller to run a set of relays. I used an audrino as the brain. I wrote the code for that also. I can send both files if you want.
Nice, were you able to use airsteam power head or did you change that out along with the two WD jacks?
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Old 09-05-2017, 03:16 PM   #1555
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I used the original WD jacks and bought two cheap < $80 power tongue jacks and turned a set of adaptors on the lathe to fit the heads i mounted sideways. To make them raise an lower together i added a couple of universals from impact sockets and a rod between the jacks. it serves to tie the tops of the jacks together and make the jacks raise and lower at the same time. I works great and I raise the jacks without lowering the main tongue jack to take the weight off.
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Old 09-05-2017, 03:18 PM   #1556
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Ill take some pictures and post
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Old 09-05-2017, 03:19 PM   #1557
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Also interested in the data about arduino control system and the power jack heads you used.
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Old 09-05-2017, 06:18 PM   #1558
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WD mods

Here are some pictures and a video of the power WD jacks along with the mods I made to the drawbar.
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Old 09-05-2017, 06:22 PM   #1559
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Here is the video
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Old 09-05-2017, 06:25 PM   #1560
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More pictures
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