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Old 10-19-2014, 12:58 PM   #1079
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Originally Posted by Arcticfox View Post
---If I measure the height of my truck hitch without the trailer attached my height from the ground is 15.5" to the bottom of the hitch receiver under the bumper. Once I hook the trailer, I try to get as close as possible to that 15.5" measurement by cranking my WD bars. To get within 1/2" of the 15.5" I need to crank 9" on my WD Jacks.

Can someone please tell me what i'm doing wrong?

I see in many posts folks talk about measuring the front wheel well, when i'm measuring at the hitch receiver. Is that the issue?
I believe your F-150 Owners Manual tells you the WDH should be adjusted to eliminate approximately 50% of the front-end rise which results from connecting the TT with no WD applied.
Eliminating 50% of the rise corresponds to restoring about 50% of the load which was removed.

By trying to restore the rear end to its unhitched height, you probably are transferring load to the front axle which is in excess of 150% of the load which was removed.
IOW, you probably are using the WDH to transfer more than three times the amount of load indicated by Ford's WDH-adjustment spec.

Returning the rear end to its unhitched height should not be the goal of WDH adjustment.
If you adjust the WDH per the TV manufacterer's specifications to get the front end to the correct height/load, the rear end will take care of itself.
It's not uncommon for the rear end of the TV to drop by 1-2" when the WDH is properly adjusted.
To compensate for the rear-end drop, you need to raise the ball mount so the TT is "level" when the WDH is adjusted to give proper front-end height.

Although Ford now specifies 50% front-end rise elimination (50% Front Axle Load Restoration), some people are going to 100% FALR in order to keep the rear GAW below the rear GAWR.
Or, they might prefer the driving "feel" at 100% FALR versus the ride produced by 50% FALR.

Of course, if your're trying to get a 1/3,1/3,1/3 distribution of tongue weight;
or if you're trying to get equal distribution of tongue weight to the TV's front and rear axles;
or if you're trying top get the TV's front and rear GAWs to be equal;
you'll have to transfer much much more load to the front axle than Ford specifies.

Ron
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Old 10-19-2014, 04:52 PM   #1080
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The unofficial pp users guide...

Thanks for this ken and Ron, I'll try making these adjustments when we head south after Christmas
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Old 10-19-2014, 06:44 PM   #1081
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Just got back from weekend trip - all felt great in tow

The only small issue I have is that as I stop at low speed I no longer "bump" bit just as I stop and settle - I see the airstream shifts laterally just a bit then re-centers

I got to wondering if the yolk that was installed by the dealer may be a tad off - and with a bit of measuring I think it's a half inch off center

I'm not sure of best place to measure though and thought I would ask

I think on the coming days I may call Sean and ask about the torque needed for the bolts I will need to loosen then re-tighten

Also it may give me a chance I hope to move the WD jacks back a bit as they contact the LP tank cover and have scratched them - that damage was done before I noticed the install problem - and I told my dealer about it already




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Old 10-23-2014, 11:34 AM   #1082
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Pharmgeek,
I am not familiar with the Propride installation only the Hensley. It sounds like you need to check the hitch for being squarely installed on the trailer and you probably need to kick up the brake controller a bit to get rid of the "Bump". It could also be that the trailer brakes are not equally adjusted.
I often watch the trailer when I stop and pull away to see if it straightens out. This is another way to know if your aggressive enough with the brake controller or the trailer brakes need to be adjusted.
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Old 10-23-2014, 12:10 PM   #1083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PharmGeek View Post
Just got back from weekend trip - all felt great in tow

The only small issue I have is that as I stop at low speed I no longer "bump" bit just as I stop and settle - I see the airstream shifts laterally just a bit then re-centers

I got to wondering if the yolk that was installed by the dealer may be a tad off - and with a bit of measuring I think it's a half inch off center

I'm not sure of best place to measure though and thought I would ask

I think on the coming days I may call Sean and ask about the torque needed for the bolts I will need to loosen then re-tighten

Also it may give me a chance I hope to move the WD jacks back a bit as they contact the LP tank cover and have scratched them - that damage was done before I noticed the install problem - and I told my dealer about it already




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I am assuming that you got the ProPride manual and the dealer didn't keep it. I would recommend going through the installation instructions and comparing, step by step, the instructions vs what appears to have been done. The torques are (or at least used to be) in the manual. My opinion is that the yoke being 1/2 inch off center could be noticeable in the hitch alignment. Also make sure the yoke bracket is the same distance from hitch ball cup on both sides of the A-frame. (i.e. it forms an isosceles triangle with the A-frame). As mentioned above, the brake controller may not be adjusted aggressively enough.

Also I would suggest reading post 545 in this thread.

It quotes a post of mine. Then read the post following that. It was written by the originator of this thread. He still trolls the forums regularly, but no longer posts. His posts are usually worded in a silly manner and often stir up a lot of controversy. In any case read both sides of the issue and then decide on your own what to do. I can tell you I have had my yoke restrained in the manner I suggested for over 5 years and many thousands of miles with no yoke shifting and no damage to any component of the trailer or hitch.

I'm wondering if this post will raise 2air from the land of the living dead

Ken
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Old 10-23-2014, 12:47 PM   #1084
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Looks like I have some homework to do - thanks


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Old 10-24-2014, 05:32 AM   #1085
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THAT just sent me on a two hour retrospective of old 2air threads.... I really miss 2air...


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Old 10-24-2014, 07:01 AM   #1086
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THAT just sent me on a two hour retrospective of old 2air threads.... I really miss 2air...


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Me too....quirky style, but a valuable information provider.....
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:40 AM   #1087
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Interesting read.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
hi guys/gals/users/friends/watchers/trolls and all the other brilLLliant screen pixels...

goofy home brewed tweaks offered for free from some cat with a mouse are not fixes.

they come from folks who want you to screw up your hitch like they have

based on the idea that lemmings in mass offer protection from the cliff drop...

IF the hitch needs a fix let the designer/builder/manufacturer create it.

force has got to go somewhere and the bracket/yoke/Ubolts as designed allow for that, when the USER takes the angles to the limit.

this is akin to the shear bolts used on the older faded orange design with struts.

haha users got the 'wise idea' that replacing shear bolts with higher grade hardware was a fix...

when all that did/does/dooo is result in the struts bending/breaking...

or in this design the yoke/bracket being damaged by extreme angle turns/backing.

leave the friggin bracket/U bolts/yoke-finger alone or at the most follow the design and set up.
_________

while raising the tanks via a wood shim (on classics) or raising the tank brackets with bolts/washers (safari/flying cloud) is ok...

and perhaps necessary on some trailer A frames or years/models...

those are trailer mods not a hitch mods...be very careful about using free advice to FIX the hitch...

it's not broken as designed.

there are pictures at the front end of this thread that show bracket/Ubolt placement on the classic A frame...

+/- .5 to 1 inch of placement on either side of the specified 25 inches from the cup will clear the tank bottoms on the classics.

still raising the tanks a bit does SOLVE the airstream design failure that allows the jack wiring to wear through and catch fire...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f353...fe-39545.html?

but that's not a PP problem it's an airstream issue

(current models finally come with the keyhole cut suggested HERE in that older thread linked above)
___________



how'dee morgan guy, KUDOS for reading it all...you will like this contraption.

ask sean for the pp' discount ne1 who reads the entire thread and passes a simple 10 question test may get a discount*

while any low fruit may occasionally drag, clearance is not really an issue. the spare tire bracket hangs just as low at the w/d bars...

yes there are rare conditions which may get the w/d bars near the ground


(like a continuously sloping campsite with sufficient angle relative to trailer length)

for visual confirmation of clearance look at some of the early pix in this thread OR in the sticky at the top of this sub forum...

((some topics were intentionally NOT covered in this newer thread because they had been throughly addressed in the haha thread))

spend a bit of time there and you'll begin to see the commonality vs the unique or improved features on the ppz...



in situations where the TV and trailer r on different angles RIGHT AT the hitch junction hooking up is still simple...

one simply loosens/tightens/adjusts the the jacks which alters the hitch head angle to match the TV/stinger angle ...

doing this during DISconnect/UNhooking allows the TV/stinger to pop free from the trailer/hitch head angle...

now just LEAVE the hitch head at that smooth disconnect angle.

then on REconnects/HITCH up the proper angle will already be there...

again this is covered in multiple places in the sticky thread on the old orange contraption.

the process is basically the same on the PP but the improved design of the hitch box means hook up at angles is much much much easier now.
_______

for the girl scout who posted in frustration earlier...

towing, maintaining, inspecting for safety

and generally fiddling with trailers and vehicles and hitches is a learned skill set.

wanna travel by trailer? acquire, learn and use the skill set...it's all within reach for almost every1.

there is not much point in hashing over your weight readings from a vehicle that has been SOLD...

when you get a new rig post some data and folks will help.

i would also caution you (and others) about so called HELP provided via PMz,

it is 87.4% of the time provided by some1 with too little spine to put there words in the OPEN FORUM for scrutiny ...

sorta like a stock tip.

telling you that posting your TV model would have resulted in ridicule is total HORSEapples...

it's also not really all that hard to sort out using the w/d-spring bars to balance the axle/tire loads on the TV or trailer...

folks providing FORMULA and links to other forums and PHD sounding crap are looking for self importance via complications...

after all isn't the secret to buying/selling stocks (not trading options) simply to buy low and sell high?

so start by weighing the TV axles and make note of the FRONT (steering axle) reading...

the goal of adjusting the w/d/spring/jack bars (after adding the trailer) is to RESTORE the steering axle loads to that original scale value.

no formula required, just note the 'buy price' and try to sell at the same price and no less.

the tv does NOT need to be perfectly level, again horses are dropping those apples.

getting the trailer level is another issue and starts with properly setting up the stinger for height/drop...

again when you actually OWN a tow vehicle and workout hitching post some pix and help will come...

or find a smart smurf to cOpILot.

cheers
2air'

*not really a discount morgan guy, just playing with ya...
____________
\/ \/ \/ \/

((yeah guys i check in and read here from time2time but for the most part air forums has become an enormous waste of cyber space and time))

i do think some threads continue to be useful in spite of the vision and direction provided by the social nonsense network...

trick or treat!

((_((please don't send me any welcome back notes, i am not back))_))


post your trick or tread messages here please...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f161...th-18538.html?

now i am headed back to the candy bowl...

vaya con ayrestreema en hiya hoe slivaOsilver
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Old 10-24-2014, 11:27 AM   #1088
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Sounds like a "Laurie And Fry" British comedy skit.
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Old 10-30-2014, 06:28 PM   #1089
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Hi all, we are a few days away from picking up our airstream. We are from NJ and the trailer is in Florida.

I had shipped down a pro-pride hitch to be installed by an RV place, the seller meeting me somewhere in Florida.

He had a ford pickup and I have a Toyota.

How do I adjust the stinger height? How is the stinger height determined? I need to know in case I have to adjust it.

Also, does anyone know the size of the bolts for the stinger adjustments?

Thanks so much.
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Old 10-30-2014, 06:55 PM   #1090
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Gomotomoto, there are step by step instructions in the ProPride instruction sheet telling exactly how to do this, using a measuring tape to determine height.

Google ProProde installation and you will have forum threads, photos, and videos taking you through the install. Good idea to preview these. Here's a set of photos that are pretty good, for example:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/rests/...7618684477177/
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Old 10-30-2014, 06:57 PM   #1091
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gomotomoto View Post
Hi all, we are a few days away from picking up our airstream. We are from NJ and the trailer is in Florida.

I had shipped down a pro-pride hitch to be installed by an RV place, the seller meeting me somewhere in Florida.

He had a ford pickup and I have a Toyota.

How do I adjust the stinger height? How is the stinger height determined? I need to know in case I have to adjust it.

Also, does anyone know the size of the bolts for the stinger adjustments?

Thanks so much.
I don't have my manual handy but here's a pic (TV to left of frame, trailer to right).

Click image for larger version

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The manual tells you the procedure to determine height as well as the size of the bolts. The stinger is adjusted by sliding it up or down the bracket (or depending on the installation instructions, up or down in the bracket) and tightened with 3 sets of bolts.

Someone with a manual handy can give you more details...good luck!!
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Old 10-30-2014, 06:59 PM   #1092
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By the way, this thread starts out with an installation with photos and descriptions for an Airstream.
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