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Old 05-13-2017, 10:35 AM   #1461
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Here's a picture Sean sent me of how to run the chains. He said do not cross them and run them between the bars as shown. Click image for larger version

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Old 05-13-2017, 10:37 AM   #1462
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Thanks so much, I'll try that. Would still like to watch during a sharp turn. Perhaps it was the combo turn and elevation change into driveway apron that caused the tight stretch.
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:41 AM   #1463
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That's a lot of small looking snap hooks that are hard to believe have the same rating as the chain. Install manual says, "When you are straight in line with your trailer the chains are the longest they ever need to be. When routed properly they should hang about 1” from the bottom of the Main Hitch Unit
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Old 05-13-2017, 11:06 AM   #1464
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Originally Posted by Abj1 View Post
So my new ProrRde is set to arrive today. I've been reading through all the great information in this thread. I believe I'm ready to to go with the slight modification and tools etc..... Mine is going on a 25ft 2006 Safari.

However, one question is for the larger bolts I can't seem to find the socket sizes. Chances are my small socket set will not have the necessary socket size for the larger bolts.

Can someone put that out there for me?

Hoping for a smooth install!

Thanks
I'm not sure, and my trailer is not here at the house, but I just did that and I think I needed 11/16", 15/16" and 1-1/8".

You will need at least a 1/2" drive ratchet and a torque wrench capable of 250 lb. Ft. Autozone rents tools, they may rent a a big torque wrench. You basically buy it and then return it. Harbor freight has a 3/4" drive one that will work at about $79.

The manual says the smaller bolts for the adjustable stinger " can not be too tight". Actually, with the proper tool, they can be too tight. You don't want to go past the torque spec for the size bolt used. I torqued mine to 150 Lb. Ft.

Al
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Old 05-13-2017, 11:31 PM   #1465
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Originally Posted by james.mileur View Post
That's a lot of small looking snap hooks that are hard to believe have the same rating as the chain. Install manual says, "When you are straight in line with your trailer the chains are the longest they ever need to be. When routed properly they should hang about 1” from the bottom of the Main Hitch Unit


I agree. I wouldn't have all those snap hooks either. I only attached the picture to show how Sean said to route the chains. That was not a picture of my setup.
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Old 05-14-2017, 12:42 AM   #1466
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In addition, I had to build the adjustable stinger three times to get the height right to make the trailer level. This was expected due to variability in truck squat from one truck to the next. Next time I bring it home I'll take some pictures of the setup and post them. I'll probably send them to Sean for comment.l
I had my hitch installed by my SOB dealer. After looking at it, it just didn't look right. So I sent pictures to Sean. He quickly replied with pictures and instructions on what was wrong and correct setup. Turns out the Hitch Bar - Hitch End was installed upside down. After correcting that, I extremely happy with the hitch.

Still working on getting a repeatable method to determine the correct trailer tongue height to use when unhitching. I just get it a bit too high or too low to pull away cleanly.
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Old 05-14-2017, 03:23 AM   #1467
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Still working on getting a repeatable method to determine the correct trailer tongue height to use when unhitching. I just get it a bit too high or too low to pull away cleanly.


Here's the secret. You might raise the jack a lot to make it easier to loosen the WD jacks (and only loosen them to the point where the WD bars float freely, you won't have to dial them all the way down), then, lower the jack and watch the coupler. You'll notice there is a point where it pushes forward slightly. Now, raise the jack again and you'll see the coupler ease up slightly off the ball. Stop there. Pull out the pins, release the over center latches, disconnect safety chains and break away brake switch and drive forward.

Once you get that your life will change
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Old 05-14-2017, 03:41 AM   #1468
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I never found that method to be precise enough. At some point, I measured the height from the ground to the top of the receiver on the trailer, that the stinger fits into. I then put a piece of tape on the wrench handle at that height and I adjust the tongue jack height to match the two, after loosening the wd bars. I have never had a problem once I started doing it this way.
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Old 05-14-2017, 06:17 AM   #1469
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Larry - sounds like there's more than one solution! The "lifting coupler" approach has never failed me. I've never tried it your way and might just to see if I get the same answer with both methods.
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Old 05-14-2017, 06:45 AM   #1470
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Originally Posted by SailorSam205 View Post
I had my hitch installed by my SOB dealer. After looking at it, it just didn't look right. So I sent pictures to Sean. He quickly replied with pictures and instructions on what was wrong and correct setup. Turns out the Hitch Bar - Hitch End was installed upside down. After correcting that, I extremely happy with the hitch.

Still working on getting a repeatable method to determine the correct trailer tongue height to use when unhitching. I just get it a bit too high or too low to pull away cleanly.


Here's a link to a 7 part YouTube video series on hooking up and unhooking the ProPride Hitch. Made it much easier for me after watching.

https://youtu.be/PkyPoVpTRvM
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Old 05-14-2017, 07:41 AM   #1471
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Spraying the stinger with WD40 prior to coupling the other day made a big difference for my day trip to the AS dealer. Also helps me a little to empathize with greasy wd bars for all those other hitches, except the WD40 is so not as much trouble. Will watch the videos.
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Old 05-14-2017, 08:57 AM   #1472
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Ok - so I am having my AS shipped back to JC for full assessment of repairs from hail damage (progressive insisted on this in my case to get me an accurate estimate) and was referred to a user on the forums who regularly drives and ships to dealers - for linked up with him - he is gonna drive my rig up and back.

He has never driven with the pp or Hensley

His TV is gonna be a different height so the stinger will require adjustment - how hard is that and how long does it take?
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Old 05-14-2017, 09:04 AM   #1473
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Ok - so I am having my AS shipped back to JC for full assessment of repairs from hail damage (progressive insisted on this in my case to get me an accurate estimate) and was referred to a user on the forums who regularly drives and ships to dealers - for linked up with him - he is gonna drive my rig up and back.

He has never driven with the pp or Hensley

His TV is gonna be a different height so the stinger will require adjustment - how hard is that and how long does it take?


Three bolts. 5 to 10 minutes. My AS is at JC now and I had the same issue. I believe the measurement is 14 inches to the top of the stinger to keep the AS level. You may want to email Sean at ProPride for that exact measurement as my brain has a tendency to skip a detail here and there.
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Old 05-14-2017, 09:43 AM   #1474
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https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...0Operation.pdf

This might help. Get a big-o torque wrench, and a friend. Love my Pro Pride.
The install has definitely taken me longer than anticipated. I got that big torque wrench for the Yoke bolts. :-)

Have major issue with one of the Yoke bolts and hex nut. Unfortunately, as torquing the the bolt, the nut is not remaining in position(due to torque pressure) and has rounded. As such I can't apply the needed torque. Also, in observing the bolt it looks as though some of the threads are messed up. Didn't think that would impede the hex nut but that could be part of the issue as well.

So, a couple issues I believe.

How have others delt with keeping the bolt in position while torquing? the "nut holder" just doesn't seem to be doing it.

thanks.
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Old 05-14-2017, 08:12 PM   #1475
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I have stuck a big screw driver in there as a pinch, but last install I slipped some galvanized washers to bridge the gap and pinch the nut. They seemed to be happy to stay, so they did.
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Old 05-15-2017, 08:54 AM   #1476
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I have stuck a big screw driver in there as a pinch, but last install I slipped some galvanized washers to bridge the gap and pinch the nut. They seemed to be happy to stay, so they did.
So, the Pro Ride is all set up now and I was able to take it for a test drive and it all seems to be towing nicely. I ended up getting new grade 5 hardware for the yoke bolts. Made a huge difference in getting them torqued. Sean was also quite helpful as we were texting.

Since I'm new to trailering how do folks attach the emergency brake cable that's included in the extension kit? I just want to make sure it's properly installed and connected to my existing emergency cable. I simply made two loops on either end of what came with the extension kit. Anyone have pics they can share?

Thanks
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Old 05-15-2017, 11:07 AM   #1477
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Great news about the install. Standby for the classic fued between brake cable long enough to engage while dragging with chains or long enough only to engage when chains give way.
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Old 05-15-2017, 11:08 AM   #1478
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I vote short enough to engage while dragging with chains.
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Old 05-15-2017, 12:14 PM   #1479
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I have been towing around with the brake cable setup FAR too long (length), as such, if something happened and I came un-coupled, the chains would be dragging and the brakes would do nothing...Until about 4 months ago, I just never thought about that...which seems just dumb, but it never occurred to me....

Now since I have struggled to find a way to make that cable the right length to have in such a case have those emergency brake thing kick in....

Probably something for a separate thread, but I too really need advice about EXACTLY how to do this bit...

Seems to me that dragging a trailer with brakes on would be better control of the trailer? I guess the way I had it, the brakes would only happen if coupler gave way AND chains gave way...
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Old 05-15-2017, 06:24 PM   #1480
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There is a thread called 'breakaway cable length' with both thoughts outlined
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