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Old 10-04-2014, 03:02 AM   #995
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Mine needs touch up paint frequently
Larry
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Old 10-04-2014, 04:18 AM   #996
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Originally Posted by Ag&Au View Post

I always thoroughly wash and lube mine before each trip, So far I have no chips that I think need touch up, but when I do I will spot retouch with DeRusto or similar Satin black.

Ken
Are you lubing anything other than the zerks? If so, what's your process?
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Old 10-04-2014, 04:30 AM   #997
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A couple of trips ago while backing in to a very tight spot, I was nearly jackknifed and heard a loud bang. I readjusted and looked at the hitch, didn't notice anything until the next trip out which felt unusually porpoisey (if that's a word). I remembered last year when I noticed the yoke was not square on the frame, adjusting that reduced the porpoising dramatically. Sure enough, the yoke was uneven again which I attribute to that sharp angle back in which must have forced the yoke to one side (must have been the bang I heard).

If you have porpoising, I'm recommending checking the alignment of your yoke to the frame. It's a simple adjustment (even I can do it! ). Loosen the u-bolts that hold the yoke to the frame (you don't have to remove them), adjust the yoke - be sure to measure at several points - hand tighten the bolts so you're not affecting the positioning of the yoke, double check your measures then finish tightening with your wrench.

Solved the porpoising problem for me!
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Old 10-04-2014, 07:58 AM   #998
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The yoke support bar slipping sideways on its U bolts can act as a protection against damage to the to the stinger or receiver when backing and turning more the angle limit. If you hear it bang or bump, it's probably a good idea to check the yoke alignment. You may have to loosen and move the support bar back to center, a real easy adjustment.
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Old 10-04-2014, 09:18 AM   #999
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Are you lubing anything other than the zerks? If so, what's your process?
First I wash the trailer including the hitch which I spray prior to washing with SD-20 Then I liberally grease the zerks and thoroughly wipe up the excess uderneath. Finally I spray anything that looks it could move with with Teflon lubricant.

I am guessing the the Rock Tamers are responsible for my small number of chips.

Ken
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Old 10-04-2014, 09:46 AM   #1000
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Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
A couple of trips ago while backing in to a very tight spot, I was nearly jackknifed and heard a loud bang. I readjusted and looked at the hitch, didn't notice anything until the next trip out which felt unusually porpoisey (if that's a word). I remembered last year when I noticed the yoke was not square on the frame, adjusting that reduced the porpoising dramatically. Sure enough, the yoke was uneven again which I attribute to that sharp angle back in which must have forced the yoke to one side (must have been the bang I heard).

If you have porpoising, I'm recommending checking the alignment of your yoke to the frame. It's a simple adjustment (even I can do it! ). Loosen the u-bolts that hold the yoke to the frame (you don't have to remove them), adjust the yoke - be sure to measure at several points - hand tighten the bolts so you're not affecting the positioning of the yoke, double check your measures then finish tightening with your wrench.

Solved the porpoising problem for me!
Something similar happened to me. I called Sean just to check in with him - he recommended tightening the u-bolt nuts to 50lbs of torque. I thought that was important to know. It isn't fun towing with an un-aligned PP yoke....
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Old 10-05-2014, 08:45 AM   #1001
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Does anyone have any issues when going over road transitions to gas stations and other irregular road surfaces? Some of the photos of PP installs show the bars to be very close to the ground.

Thanks

Kelvin
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Old 10-05-2014, 09:41 AM   #1002
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Does anyone have any issues when going over road transitions to gas stations and other irregular road surfaces? Some of the photos of PP installs show the bars to be very close to the ground.

Thanks

Kelvin
Never a problem. I believe when going over these transitions truck nose up, the increased stiffness of the bars is enough to lift truck rear and trailer front well over. When truck nose down the hitch is angled upward well over the transition. Really no different than any other w.d. hitch.
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Old 10-05-2014, 09:50 AM   #1003
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Does anyone have any issues when going over road transitions to gas stations and other irregular road surfaces? Some of the photos of PP installs show the bars to be very close to the ground.

Thanks

Kelvin
I used to get a bit of a scrape at times from the skid plates on the rear of the trailer and the safety chains would sometimes touch the ground when leaving the road and entering a parking lot. However just the 1+ inch of clearance gained when switching to 16 inch wheels and tires has so far totally eliminated that.

Ken
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Old 10-05-2014, 01:38 PM   #1004
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We have not had this problem - I have to run over a drainage curb into my front lawn and worries but it did not scrape

I avoid entering gas stations with any questionable dips as I just don't have a sense yet if I'll bottom out the AS


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Old 10-05-2014, 02:57 PM   #1005
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As is - rock tamers are a no go on my 3P hitch?


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Old 10-05-2014, 03:28 PM   #1006
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As is - rock tamers are a no go on my 3P hitch?


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If that's a question, I would say No, they probably will work.
How easy it will be will depend on where the holes in the side of the hitch receiver are drilled. In my case with the ProPride pinned in place on the truck there is enough free space left on the 2x2 horizontal shaft portion of the hitch for the Rock Tamer's collar to fit.
Is that clear enough?

Someone here has mentioned mounting the Rock Tamers on the vertical portion of the hitch. I don't know how though. I could not do that with my setup.

Ken
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Old 10-05-2014, 03:34 PM   #1007
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What is the precise space needed for the collar to fit on that bit of horizontal shaft?


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Old 10-05-2014, 04:16 PM   #1008
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What is the precise space needed for the collar to fit on that bit of horizontal shaft?


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31/32" perhaps a little less.
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