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Old 08-25-2016, 05:40 PM   #1421
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Anyone using the Lippert Straptek

I recently installed the 3P on our new 2017 FC 27FB and the W/D jack prevent the front storage compartment door from opening all the way. This severely limits the use of this compartment. I didn't see this on Sean's site before buying the 3P but was wondering if anyone is using them?

http://www.propridehitch.com/lippert...technology-kit

BTW, the installation went without any issues, other than it was 97 that day with 95% humidity and the only place the dealer had on thier lot that was flat and not gravel was in the street. Even with those odds not in my favor, the installation only took 3 hours. I can't say there wasn't any cussing during the installation but my wife and daughter kept their cool.

Pulled the new toy over 1K mile over the last 2 week with great performance.

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Old 08-26-2016, 11:43 AM   #1422
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SML call Sean at ProPride and ask him.
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Old 08-26-2016, 04:34 PM   #1423
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Thanks for the input everyone!


Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
Are the links from the jacks to the bars hooked to the jacks on the center of the three holes? It just seems loose to me...

I usually get tension in the WD bars before I raise the jacks 3-4 inches. I'm at full tension at between 6.5 to 7.5 inches measured from the jack plate to the bottom edge of the moving upper part of the jack tube.
Yes my links are in the 3rd hole from the top (lowest hole). I get tension at about 5.5"- 6"

Quote:
Originally Posted by cwf View Post
Bear.. this really doesn't sound too hard to settle. There will be several steps to set up.. it is NOT a 'plug and play'.. nothing in life really is.

A couple thoughts. By the fact you say you are loading the UTV in forward and backward causing different behavior/sway indicates you should take more care in how you load.. it DOES affect handling/sway.. therefore, what you experience


One other thought... since your truck is 'lifted'... are you sure there is no lateral movement in the rear differential/axle? There are ways to check this.. and needs to be addressed or your 'sway' may never be resolved.

you can do this!
This trailer is fairly new to me, only taken it on about 3 trips so me moving the UTV around was just trying to find a good hauling configuration before I had any scale info. Now that I have the scale info and know that my trailer is light on the tongue, I will have to load the UTV (which has a rear engine) in backwards to try and keep as much weight over the axles as possible. Also I'm going to take a real close look at my trucks rear suspension and make sure there is nothing getting loose. This sway problem seems to get worse on every trip or maybe I'm just paying more attention to it now!

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
I'm at a loss. I think there are way too many variables in your setup for me to understand the problem other than to say - you definitely have at least one - if not several - in your setup!

Personally, I'd call Sean and get a consult right away and I'd take the advice to call Andy Thompson at CanAm as well. I don't understand some of his towing philosophy but he and his family must be doing something right with the thousands of rigs they've set up over the years. Yours has lots of chewy weirdness in it - I'd bet someone like him would love to figure that out. Good luck!
Thanks, I'll call both of those guys next week. I'm going to hitch up and play around with it this weekend. I'm going to change the tilt angle a little (tilt down) and crank the jacks a lot more. I know my truck isn't the ideal towing rig for a large trailer but it has performed flawlessly for the last 3 years towing much larger toyhaulers loaded to the max. Alot of the suspension components are oversized and overbuilt to accommodate towing heavy loads. The one thing I suspect is my Sulastic shackles may be causing some lateral movement. I'm going to take a close look at them this weekend!
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Old 09-05-2016, 06:16 PM   #1424
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@sml:
Yes, the w/d jacks do block the front compartment door on my FC 27 twin bed from opening all the way. However, I still keep my hitching tools, chocks, spare water hose and a couple of collapsing camp chairs in there with no problems.
The strap accessory you linked to seems entirely unnecessary to me. Determine the amount of lift on the jacks required to get proper weight distribution (I use 5.5") and use a tape measure to set to that level after you hitch up. Some people use a power drill to crank them as opposed to the supplied hand ratchet wrench. Don't use an impact driver; it will wreck the mechanism.
Always take all the tension off the jacks before unhitching. This makes everything smooth as a baby's butt.
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Old 09-07-2016, 01:01 AM   #1425
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Old 09-07-2016, 09:48 AM   #1426
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After corresponding with Sean I have decided not to go with the straps and live with the door not opening all the way.
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:29 AM   #1427
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Hey Guys,

For those who adjust the PP with a drill - which drill (manufacturer, model) are you using? My Black and Decker 18V can't adjust the weight distribution. I guess it is more about the torque than the voltage.

Thanks!
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:36 AM   #1428
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We use a Makita 18v LXT. The drill works very well with enough power to adjust the WD bars. In the early going I used an impact driver as I felt it would be easier to carry. Wrong move, the impact driver will break the WD roller pins. So stick with the drill.

Hope this helps

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Old 09-19-2016, 09:58 AM   #1429
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I use a B&D 18v and it works fine but not for the final 1/2 inch or so. I use the provided ratchet(manual) for the last bit so that I am not putting too much torque on the pin.

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Old 09-19-2016, 11:18 AM   #1430
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20V Porter Cable with 2 speed clutch, on low. Voltage is your friend, more being better, at least with a reasonably good tool.
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Old 09-19-2016, 11:26 AM   #1431
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I have Loewe's version (not sure who manufactures it). 18V with two torque settings - higher torque for the WD jacks on the PP and higher speed for the stabilizers. Same drill. Used to use and impact wrench. Don't do that! 😀
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Old 09-19-2016, 01:34 PM   #1432
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Yup... We keep AS on the bow jack at same level as when we joined the stinger parts. Then crank in 5.5 inches above BAL base plates, then lower the bow Jack transferring the weights properly.

When transferring weight BEFORE cranking the BAL jacks puts a huge load on them.. And you are more likely to shear a pin... NEVER USE A TOOL IN IMPACT MODE!!!! Just use in drill with a torque clutch and enable that feature.

On occasion I have even life's the AS bow which allows even easier BAL Jack preload.

YFMV (your fun may vary)
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Old 09-19-2016, 06:15 PM   #1433
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Thanks All! I ordered 20V Porter Cable to test it out.
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Old 09-20-2016, 05:29 PM   #1434
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After 4-5 under performing drills I finally went big and got this.
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It's 18 volts, has 3 speeds and will literally wring itself out of your grip. I have dents in the side wraps where I didn't stop it before the stabilizers hit their stops. It will crank my 1,400 lb bars all the way up if I hang on!
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Old 09-21-2016, 12:45 AM   #1435
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The unofficial pp users guide...

If you set it for screw driving you can control the torque somewhat. I have scars from where mine jammed a drill bit in a tight space and trapped my hand painfully. The bad part is the drill chuck locks once you release the trigger. I know that's to allow tightening the chick, but it makes it hard to get yourself loose from it if you are trapped.

It's s marvelous tool, but the cheap hand ratchet wrench that came with the ProPride is a lot safer. I'll just swing the wrench for a few minutes. Less painful...


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Old 09-21-2016, 09:39 AM   #1436
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With the jack stand still down, I use the Airstream supplied manual speed wrench for the stabilizers to get as much slack out as possible and then switch to the supplied ratchet.

BTW. A ⅛" steel rod can provide the necessary 1/4" piece to replace the keeper on the Airstream speed wrench handle.

I find the manual system works for us. The electric drill sits in the Classic's street side rear compartment under the twin bed and rarely sees the light of day. It stays there in case I need a drill.

We just use the manual system for the 23D.
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Old 11-03-2016, 07:58 PM   #1437
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HA to ProPride Conversion

Because I am a glutten for punishment I am converting a Hensley Arrow to get some of the propride features. Mainly the yoke and adjustable hitch bar.

Does any one see a reason why the hitch won't work backwards from the Pro Pride configuration? I am using a OEM Curt hitch bar from there MV series hitch and it makes it 1000% easier to just add the plates vs. cutting the hitch bar apart to swap ends.

I tried the OCL and they latch up just fine with the extra thickness of the 1/2" plate in there?
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Old 11-07-2016, 12:55 PM   #1438
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Over?

I am likely going to go with the way I have it shown in the picture, it's backwards from the 3P but I can't see if it matters any.
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Old 11-07-2016, 02:32 PM   #1439
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Sorry CarterKraft - I don't know what you're doing or how to react. I'm reading and not ignoring - just can't add much to the discussion. Sorry.
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Old 11-07-2016, 02:39 PM   #1440
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I think he means, does it matter that his side plates are welded to the stinger half of the assembly, rather than the receiver half of the assembly. I'm inclined to say that it doesn't matter, as long as proper welding and steel is used...but really an engineer needs to answer...and would need a lot more information.
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