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Old 07-04-2016, 08:41 AM   #1361
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I haven't opened my WD jack up since I haven't had a problem, but would a small pair of needle nose pliers do the trick to remove a worn/broken roll pin?
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Old 07-04-2016, 09:47 AM   #1362
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I haven't opened my WD jack up since I haven't had a problem, but would a small pair of needle nose pliers do the trick to remove a worn/broken roll pin?
I think not. I've not had a roll pin break in this application but have broken them in other similar situations.

As stated earlier, the roll pin must be a specific length so that it does not extend out of the gear. Nothing to grab with needle nose pliers. Additionally, the pin shears inside the gear where it meets the shaft. So the sheared roll pin ends up in three pieces; one piece in the shaft and two on either side of the gear. Each has to be driven out, ideally using a drift pin tool.


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Old 07-04-2016, 10:09 AM   #1363
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After some searching, I found a small set online that isn't too expensive...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016O...eFL&ref=plSrch

I saw several larger sets of roll pin punches, but they aren't tapered so I don't suppose they'd work?
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Old 07-04-2016, 09:51 PM   #1364
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Minor thread hijack...

I've seen recommendations that an impact driver is a good tool to have in the kit. Now I'm wondering, when would it be useful. Only thing that comes to mind for me is tightening or loosening wheel lug nuts. Anything else?
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Old 07-04-2016, 10:00 PM   #1365
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Don't waist your $$ on a punch. I just carry a 3" nail in my tool box and it works fine for pushing the pins out. I have broken a couple of these over time and they are really not a big deal to fix.
In my case. both pins were broken while using an impact driver on my WD cranks..... I know I'm slow learner as it took doing it twice before the light came on. Have since left the impact at home and travel with a normal 18volt Maketa drill and have not broken a pin since.
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Old 07-04-2016, 10:03 PM   #1366
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I don't recall if it's in the maintenance instructions for our ProPride, but we pop the covers off the screw jacks to lube the gears when we lube the hitch ball. Otherwise the grease will dry up, putting more stress on the gears and roll pin.
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Old 07-04-2016, 10:32 PM   #1367
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Originally Posted by KYAirstream View Post
After some searching, I found a small set online that isn't too expensive...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016O...eFL&ref=plSrch

I saw several larger sets of roll pin punches, but they aren't tapered so I don't suppose they'd work?

My $0.02 from experience (twice). A slightly smaller pin and a hammer solve the problem. I see ArcticFox replied with more (correct) insight.
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Old 07-04-2016, 10:34 PM   #1368
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Originally Posted by SailorSam205 View Post
Minor thread hijack...

I've seen recommendations that an impact driver is a good tool to have in the kit. Now I'm wondering, when would it be useful. Only thing that comes to mind for me is tightening or loosening wheel lug nuts. Anything else?

I wouldn't use one on lug nuts either. Torque wrench is my preference.

In the past, if I recommended one, I apologize. Maybe there's a good use for rusted bolts?
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Old 07-04-2016, 10:42 PM   #1369
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I wouldn't use one on lug nuts either. Torque wrench is my preference.

In the past, if I recommended one, I apologize. Maybe there's a good use for rusted bolts?
I will use them to remove lug nuts, but not to tighten them. If I'm feeling lazy. I will start them with an impact driver, but finish with torque wrench.

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Old 07-05-2016, 11:06 AM   #1370
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Anyone has a link where we can buy the pins online? Or at least the right diameter/lengths.
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Old 07-05-2016, 11:51 AM   #1371
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http://m.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman...1413/204726277

5/32" x 1.25"
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Old 07-05-2016, 09:15 PM   #1372
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Grease your ball!

I've been using a ProPride for a few seasons now. I posted about a grinding/groaning noise back around post #1200 (approx). At that time I indicated I had tried greasing the jacks, more grease on the WD bars and finally that I had made some shims for the receiver to reduce free play. This all seemed to help at the time but the grinding/groaning noise came back at the end of last year. I finally tracked it down to a ball that needed greasing I just regressed again a few weeks ago and thought I'd post here in case others were chasing some weird noises with their hitches.

It is a simple job to do. The first time I did this I was in a campsite on the road. You will need a supply of grease, preferably a grease gun to apply but by hand will work also. Some rags or paper towels and about 15 minutes. Procedure is as follows: -
  • Chock the trailer wheels.
  • Put the stinger in your TV as normal
  • Back up the TV and hitch up as normal (lock in place the over center latches).
  • Unlatch the ball lock on your AS as if you were unhitching a regular trailer (remove whatever locking mechanism you have, pull latch forward and up).
  • Jack up the nose of your AS with the tongue jack - PP head is now supported by the stinger/TV and the AS ball cup raises up to expose the ball.
  • You should not need to loosen or remove anything from the PP to do this, just make sure the WD bars are loose, about 1" or so from the lowest position.
  • Make sure the AS is secure on the tongue jack before putting your hands anywhere near the ball.
  • Once your are sure all is secure, clean the old grease from the ball and cup.
  • Apply grease to the ball and inside the cup with your hand.
  • Lower the AS back onto the ball.
  • You will probably not be able to get the ball lock seated again so hop in your TV, start the engine, put your TV in drive and GENTLY ease off the foot brake. It will only take a partial lift off the brake and you should hear a "click" as the ball lock reseats. Put back in neutral.
  • Put your ball lock mechanism back on.
  • You should now be good to go.

I have now re-greased my ball twice in less than 2 years. I'd recommend doing this as part of you annual maintenance or sooner if you hear any noises from the hitch. The other typical culprit for noise is lack of grease on the WD bars (via the zerk fittings). This re-greasing should be done about every 1000 miles.
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Old 07-05-2016, 09:49 PM   #1373
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Very helpful, thanks. Next time you do it, could you video it? It all makes sense until that last part. Would love to see exactly how the slow pull forward engages the coupler.

Thanks for the helpful tip!
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Old 07-05-2016, 09:52 PM   #1374
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I seem to recall a pic from someone who installed a grease zerk fitting in the top of their coupler. Seemed like a neat idea. I haven't had a need to apply additional grease yet (after multiple seasons), otherwise I might be inclined to add one as well.
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Old 07-05-2016, 10:13 PM   #1375
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Found it....
http://maze.airstreamlife.com/2010/1...intenance-day/
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Old 07-05-2016, 11:24 PM   #1376
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Anyone has a link where we can buy the pins online? Or at least the right diameter/lengths.
Check the nut and bolts department at your local non-big box hardware store, they should have them in one of the many drawers above the bins.


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Old 07-05-2016, 11:43 PM   #1377
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Went to two local hardware stores today and they had either 1" or 1.5" but no 1.25" length. While the link went to a Home Depot web site, the part is NOT in their stores. One can order on line and it will be delivered to a local store......

So went to the Home Depot website and a package of ten is $4.19 but the shipping to my home is $5.99, plus local sales tax. I bumped up the quantity to three packages to have battle spare I could share if necessary.
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Old 07-06-2016, 12:07 AM   #1378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohiobrits View Post
  • Lower the AS back onto the ball.
  • You will probably not be able to get the ball lock seated again so hop in your TV, start the engine, put your TV in drive and GENTLY ease off the foot brake. It will only take a partial lift off the brake and you should hear a "click" as the ball lock reseats. Put back in neutral
I took a slightly different approach, where I positioned a jack under the hitch head and dropped the hitch head and ball down from the coupler onto a stack of leveling blocks. This approach allowed me to jimmy the ball back into place into the coupler when I raised the hitch head back up, so the latch would close completely onto the ball.

As always, YMMV


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Old 07-06-2016, 09:32 AM   #1379
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Greasing the ball is very simple with a cheap floor jack from Harbor Freight. Very quick and I don't even take it off of the jack, up, unlock, down to clear the ball, grease, up and lock back into place. 10 minutes at most including pulling the jack out of the garage. I think the jack was something like $39.

Jack is also good for putting upward pressure on the stinger when trying to tighten it up against the support pin on the receiver section of the hitch. Not as back breaking as trying to do it by hand.

No jack then Ohio Brits method works. Same type of instructions in reverse of how to originally mount the hitch in the PP instructions.
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Old 07-06-2016, 06:37 PM   #1380
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Very helpful, thanks. Next time you do it, could you video it? It all makes sense until that last part. Would love to see exactly how the slow pull forward engages the coupler.

Thanks for the helpful tip!
The pull forward bit moves the TV maybe an 1/8th of an inch forward. Thats it. For some reason when you jack the nose of the AS up it gets slightly out of alignment (fore and aft) with the ball. You are basically just putting the TV, AS and ball back in the exact same alignment as when it was released and jacked up. Think of it as taking up some slack in the train. You are certainly not trying to move the AS in any significant way. I leave the TV door open and listen for the "click" as the ball lock slots into place. The click is the ball lock latch moving from vertical (where it is stuck - won't go down) to its horizontal locked position. You know it is in the right position if the holes in the lock are aligned and you can get your padlock or locking pin back in. Simple part of the process but an important step if you get stuck in the "unlatched" position. Caused me a considerable amount of concern when I did this the first time on the road and could not get it latched .
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