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Old 06-12-2016, 10:01 PM   #1341
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Originally Posted by Wazbro View Post
Ford's Pro Backup Assist is a very new option on new trucks (I'm not sure when it came out maybe on the 2016s, so out for less then a year?). Not many people actually have a vehicle with it, let alone have it, an Airstream and a ProPride or Hensley hitch.

You might want to call Sean at ProPride to see if he knows about it.
My hitch is on-order. Because I happen to live fairly close to the "ProPride factory", I elected to pick it up instead of having it shipped. Save a few $$$. I plan to ask Sean about this when I do. Just hoping someone has already done this....

Thanks!
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Old 06-26-2016, 09:54 AM   #1342
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Originally Posted by SailorSam205 View Post
This seems to be the correct thread for this question, which if it was answered, I missed it working thru all the posts.
Is anyone using Ford's Pro Backup Assist with a PP hitch? Reading Ford's instructions for setting up the feature, you are supposed to enter the distance from the license plate to the "center of the ball". This is supposed to be between 9 and 16 inches. It seems likely that this measurement on a PP will be more than that. Will the PP hitch work with Ford's feature?
I have a 2016 f150 with the pro trailer back up assist. Before I bought my propride I emailed Sean who confirmed that one of is customer was using this feature whitout problem. I had Can Am Rv do the installation of the hitch on my new Airstream and they also installed the sticker that is used in conjonction with the pro trailer back up assist so I do not know exactly what distance they entered. It is a tight fit on my 27fb international , in fact a part of the sticker is under the propane cover but it works great. Before we left Can Am,Andy did a test drive to make sure everything was set up perfectly and even tried this feature. I think he was surprised it worked so well even if he tought it might have some limitations. For someone like me who did not have any previous towing experience it is a great tool but I am sure many of you with years of experience do not need it.
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Old 06-26-2016, 03:59 PM   #1343
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Backing is an acquired skill. Recommend some practice, gadget or no gadget. FWIW, big truck drivers aren't paid to cover those long miles so to speak as they are to negotiate the very last difficult few on side roads. And to back it in. That's where most "accidents" occur.

Andy has posted good things about the latest F150 (given that it's a half ton, not a car), and as an owner of this style hitch I know you'll enjoy it.

Mirror size and placement is where most tow rigs fall short. My personal rig is longer than the big rig I drive. But the mirrors of the latter are superb in comparison to the aftermarket mirrors on my Dodge (which replaced the factory toeing mirrors).

This may account for some of the reluctance to do much backing. I believe I have seen some threads where cameras used in conjunction with mirrors worked well.

Good luck.
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Old 06-26-2016, 09:58 PM   #1344
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Hi, I've been lurking around this thread for quite a while and I've read almost the whole thing. Great info! I finally purchased a slightly used PP and got it installed. I've taken a couple trips so far and experienced a lot of porpoising and my truck feels very "loose". The sway portion of the hitch seems to be fine, but the weight distribution part is where I'm having problems. I cant seem to get enough weight taken off the rear axle of my truck. It's sagging about 1-1/2", and despite how much I crank the jacks, it really doesn't change. I've moved the jack links to the lowest hole (3rd from top) and have the jacks cranked to 8". The trailer is pretty level, but it's sitting about 1" low in the front. I've followed all the PP instructions very carefully and took all measurements, calculations ect. before beginning the install. The calculations told me I needed the longer drop stinger to work with my 7" lifted truck. My bars are the 1400lb bars but seem to do very little. My cheap $200 WDH that was previously on the trailer worked great for WD and I could raise the rear of the truck back to unloaded height easily, but swayed like crazy! I'm not sure if my 1400lb bars are wore out, or if I don't have something set up right. My regular RV forum wasn't much help so hopefully you guys will have some input or see something wrong with my install. Thanks!







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jack links- 3rd hole, jacks cranked up 8"
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Old 06-26-2016, 10:40 PM   #1345
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The unofficial pp users guide...

Have a look at the ProPride directions. You may need to adjust the tilt where the stinger bolts together. Other possibility is that your receiver is flexing vertically. There is a hell of a lot of force on it to do WD, to put it mildly.

On my setup, I have no issue getting the front axle to stay on the ground. I have found that I need to crank in about 1/2 inch extra depending upon the load in the AS and TV.

If you don't have the install directions, give Sean a call at ProPride to get the file.

Also be aware a ProPride is limited to towing 10,000 pounds max.

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Old 06-26-2016, 10:54 PM   #1346
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Bear ghost, two possible problems, maybe working together, come to mind on looking at your photos.

It looks like your w.d. bars are at the top of their range of travel, there is no lifting left. Add more washers under the rivet in head to tilt the w.d. bars down.

I think the drop bar and longer ProPride puts a little more stress on the truck receiver than your previous hitch. The truck's receiver/hitch assembly may be flexing, thereby taking up some of the lifting force applied by the w.d. bars. In that case a stronger receiver assembly may be needed. Try to see if the receiver assembly is twisting upward as you apply weight distribution.

We have used a ProPride for several years, but I claim no expertise. What do others think?
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Old 06-26-2016, 11:00 PM   #1347
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Bear ghost, I think rmkrum and I are in agreement.
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Old 06-26-2016, 11:18 PM   #1348
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Yup. Something is at the wrong angle, or flexing. Max I have to adjust has been about 1/2 inch. I can quickly tell if it's too light-feels like the front end is floating on the Tacoma. Wife will get seasick if I don't dial it in right😀😀


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Old 06-27-2016, 09:48 AM   #1349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papa smurf View Post
I have a 2016 f150 with the pro trailer back up assist. Before I bought my propride I emailed Sean who confirmed that one of is customer was using this feature whitout problem. I had Can Am Rv do the installation of the hitch on my new Airstream and they also installed the sticker that is used in conjonction with the pro trailer back up assist so I do not know exactly what distance they entered. It is a tight fit on my 27fb international , in fact a part of the sticker is under the propane cover but it works great. Before we left Can Am,Andy did a test drive to make sure everything was set up perfectly and even tried this feature. I think he was surprised it worked so well even if he tought it might have some limitations. For someone like me who did not have any previous towing experience it is a great tool but I am sure many of you with years of experience do not need it.
Papa Smurf,
LOL, a guy I used to work with decided to turn all of the folks he worked with into a Smurf army. Our director was designated Papa Smurf and he called himself Gargamel. I ended up being "Solver Smurf".

Anyway, I was wondering if I could impose on you to see what point on the hitch was used as the "center of the ball". According to the Ford Owners manual, you should be able to call up the measurements:

If you need to check measurements entered or change them you can access them through the trailer menus in the instrument cluster. Choose the option to change the sticker
from the change trailer settings menu.

You may want to copy the measurements for safe keeping in case someone deletes them while the truck is being serviced!

Thanks!
Al
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Old 06-27-2016, 05:20 PM   #1350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SailorSam205 View Post
Papa Smurf,
LOL, a guy I used to work with decided to turn all of the folks he worked with into a Smurf army. Our director was designated Papa Smurf and he called himself Gargamel. I ended up being "Solver Smurf".

Anyway, I was wondering if I could impose on you to see what point on the hitch was used as the "center of the ball". According to the Ford Owners manual, you should be able to call up the measurements:

If you need to check measurements entered or change them you can access them through the trailer menus in the instrument cluster. Choose the option to change the sticker
from the change trailer settings menu.

You may want to copy the measurements for safe keeping in case someone deletes them while the truck is being serviced!

Thanks!
Al
I went and have a look but I am not positive you can recall the numbers whitout changing them. Since the numbers have not been written on the card that comes with it I do not want to mess with it. I would think Sean from Propride would be able to tell you what point of the hitch should be used for measurement
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Old 06-28-2016, 08:34 AM   #1351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post

Also be aware a ProPride is limited to towing 10,000 pounds max.

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The PP is actually rated for 14k
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
Yup. Something is at the wrong angle, or flexing. Max I have to adjust has been about 1/2 inch. I can quickly tell if it's too light-feels like the front end is floating on the Tacoma. Wife will get seasick if I don't dial it in right😀😀


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Thanks for the input everyone! After a closer look at my receiver, I think it IS flexing! Also I noticed it's only a class 4 and only rated for 1000 tongue /10000 gvwr. So looks like I'm upgrading to a class 5 with the square tube instead of the round like mine is now. I talked with Sean and he said that the early GM round tube hitches had a problem with flexing. Hopefully that solves my weight distribution issue. I'll report back after I get the class 5
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Old 06-28-2016, 11:11 AM   #1352
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The unofficial pp users guide...

Ok, that's different. My PRopride is marked 10k max.

If the receiver is the older kind, there has been mention of not only flex, but damage and possible coming apart. Be careful, check it, or just wait till you get the better one installed.

Worth mentioning is consider installing a stainless steel eyebolt to some part of the truck other than the hitch receiver assembly for the breakaway switch cable. Some use a license plate bolt hole. If the receiver breaks and the cable is attached to it, like most of us tend to do, no breakaway switch activation. As the old Dodge commercials used to say "Thet cain't be good!"

Sean flat knows his stuff....




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Old 06-29-2016, 12:09 AM   #1353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
Ok, that's different. My PRopride is marked 10k max.

If the receiver is the older kind, there has been mention of not only flex, but damage and possible coming apart. Be careful, check it, or just wait till you get the better one installed.

Worth mentioning is consider installing a stainless steel eyebolt to some part of the truck other than the hitch receiver assembly for the breakaway switch cable. Some use a license plate bolt hole. If the receiver breaks and the cable is attached to it, like most of us tend to do, no breakaway switch activation. As the old Dodge commercials used to say "Thet cain't be good!"

Sean flat knows his stuff....




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Great idea with the eye bolt! I can see how that would come in handy in case of a breakage. I'm just glad you guys pointed me in the direction of my receiver. I was so focused on getting my PP set up right, I never thought to look upstream at the receiver. I always assumed since it was on my 3/4 ton it was a class 5 and rated for anything my truck could tow. So today I ordered Curt class 5, square tube receiver rated at 1800/18000 lbs. Should do the trick!
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Old 06-30-2016, 07:55 AM   #1354
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Double check the new Curt receiver for a 2" or 2.5" opening and order the corresponding sized connecting hitch. The shims to make a 2" fit into the 2.5" opening have not worked too well for those trying them on the forum.

Sean at proPride had a 2.5" truck side assembly for his adjustable stinger equipment.
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Old 07-01-2016, 07:02 AM   #1355
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be cautious of 2.5" receiver end

Quote:
Originally Posted by switz View Post
Double check the new Curt receiver for a 2" or 2.5" opening and order the corresponding sized connecting hitch. The shims to make a 2" fit into the 2.5" opening have not worked too well for those trying them on the forum.

Sean at proPride had a 2.5" truck side assembly for his adjustable stinger equipment.
Be careful ordering the 2.5" receiver end from ProPride. I bought one and it looked great until I went to install it. it was fabricated too wide by an 1/8" where the drop bolts in and the drop would have been sloppy when installed. There are huge forces and moments at this connection of the receiver end and the drop and it must fit properly.

I have been trying to get this squared away with Sean for 9 months now with lots of unfulfilled promises. I am fearful that PP is suffering financial woes.
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Old 07-03-2016, 06:15 AM   #1356
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Recently while ajusting the weight distribution jack on my propride something broke and I was left with the part where I put the wrench turning freely and not raising the bar. SteveSueMac was nice enough to help me diagnose the problem and tell me how to fix it. There is a small roll pin inside that just broke. If you ever need to replace it the dimensions are 5/32 x 1 1/4 inches. I just bought a bunch of them and will keep them as spare. I also bought two more lynch pin and an extra hitch pin. Do you cary any other spare parts that might be needed for your hitch?
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Old 07-03-2016, 08:03 AM   #1357
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Is this the part? http://m.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman...1413/204726277

Easy to replace through the top cover plate?
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Old 07-03-2016, 10:05 AM   #1358
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Thats what you need. I had one break. Have a few spares now. Length is important as it can't be longer or shorter in order to function. My lesson learned was not to use an electric impact wrench to drive the screw. A good 18-20V electric drill works fine and doesn't do the pounding of the impact wrench.
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Old 07-03-2016, 01:46 PM   #1359
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KYAirstream - yes that's the part. You also need the size just smaller than that to tap out the broken part that remains stuck in the gear channel.


Ghaynes - same here - impact wrench was my first one. Second was not paying attention. WD was all the way down and I thought I needed to lower it some more ... oh man....

Papa Smurf - glad it worked out for you! As for other parts - not sure. That ratchet wrench that comes with it didn't last more than a month. But upgrading to an 18v drill (NOT an impact driver &#128512 with a 3/4 socket does the trick and also works on the trailer's stabilizer jacks as well.

Happy camping everyone.
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Old 07-04-2016, 08:32 AM   #1360
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There are drift pins of different diameters sold at hardware stores to drive out the broken roll pins. Less chance of smashing the thumb with a hammer.
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