Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-16-2014, 01:48 PM   #939
Rivet Master
 
PharmGeek's Avatar

 
2014 30' FB FC Bunk
Hoover , Alabama
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,140
not sure it relates...but when I park my airstream...I back through the yard on an unlevel surface, then onto the concrete pad (pretty much level....

I loosen the WD jacks before backing in, but all the motion and being off level and differeing from truck and trailer...the result is often that I have to adjust the WD different on each side in order to detach...and also I usually have to do the same when attaching (ie I get the stinger in most of the way, but the last bit requires always adjustment of the WD to allow proper easy entry...

I am used to it now and its not hard...but often wonder if the WD bars are putting alot of pressure on the trailer frame? perhaps I am doing something wrong...
__________________

__________________
“The atoms of our bodies are traceable to stars that manufactured them...We are not figuratively, but literally stardust.”


PharmGeek is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2014, 03:54 PM   #940
cwf
Rivet Master
 
cwf's Avatar

 
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,509
Images: 2
The "stabilizer" jacks must be "stored". The trailer must be road ready with exception of the wheel chocks.

I then connect the hitch and lift the tongue using the tongue jack, about 1.5 inches to make cranking up the WD's a little easier.

Then we crank in the 6.5" distance, from the WD screw mount plate to the bottom of the WD Screw sleeve. This preloads the WD's.

Next, I lower the tongue jack and cross check everything.
__________________

__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
cwf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2014, 04:12 PM   #941
Rivet Master
 
SteveSueMac's Avatar

 
2012 27' Flying Cloud
W , New England
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 4,867
Quote:
Originally Posted by PharmGeek View Post
not sure it relates...but when I park my airstream...I back through the yard on an unlevel surface, then onto the concrete pad (pretty much level....

I loosen the WD jacks before backing in, but all the motion and being off level and differeing from truck and trailer...the result is often that I have to adjust the WD different on each side in order to detach...and also I usually have to do the same when attaching (ie I get the stinger in most of the way, but the last bit requires always adjustment of the WD to allow proper easy entry...

I am used to it now and its not hard...but often wonder if the WD bars are putting alot of pressure on the trailer frame? perhaps I am doing something wrong...
I don't know that it's "wrong" but there is no need to loosen the jacks when backing in that I'm aware of.

And there is always some movement after you unhitch. I retread the manual and found the part about loosening the jacks JUST until you can kick the bars loose with your foot. This helps set the re-entry path. Also remember when you're unhitching, after you've loosened the WD, you need to lower or raise the jack to get to the point where the head begins to lift off the coupler. It's barely perceptible but someone here recommended feeling it with your hand and that works great. Just the right loose tension on the WD and exiting only when the head is lifted offer ball are 2 keys to successful unhitching and rehitching. There are times, however, when things adjust for whatever reason and you find you still need to fiddle with the WD jacks when you re-hitch. Once I learned that secret, the process became easy as pie!

Good luck!
__________________
SteveSueMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2014, 08:39 PM   #942
2 Rivet Member
 
Redmond , Washington
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 30
So the internal part of the jacks is losing the paint in some places. There is only a bit of rust now but I'm afraid it's going to get worse. What can I do? I guess that using any kind of lube would be bad - i.e. the jack could slip down?
__________________
chracatoa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2014, 09:35 PM   #943
cwf
Rivet Master
 
cwf's Avatar

 
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,509
Images: 2
Quote:
Originally Posted by chracatoa View Post
So the internal part of the jacks is losing the paint in some places. There is only a bit of rust now but I'm afraid it's going to get worse. What can I do? I guess that using any kind of lube would be bad - i.e. the jack could slip down?
I sprayed with a little Boeshield...
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
cwf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2014, 10:15 PM   #944
Rivet Master
 
rodsterinfl's Avatar

 
2006 25' Safari
Fort Myers , Florida
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,143
Images: 4
Quote:
If this is not what you are talking about, then I have no clue what you're talking about. Try re-describing more precisely what jacks, what frame, and what torsion you are talking about. There are several of all three in the tow vehicle/hitch/trailer system.
OK, here is my scenario. Last week I was hitching up. Once I secured the stinger to the hitch I raised the electric trailer frame jack which in turn raised the truck. I then pulled out my electric screwdriver set to low and used it to make two visits to each side of the hitch WD jacks alternating between while raising the WD bars with the power screwdriver. I noticed strain on the frame. I completed the lifting then lowered the tongue jack placing the distributed load on the trailer and truck. As I began to pull forward there was a loud noise. I got out to look and a rivet had popped off on the front of the trailer.

I am asking how to best lift the WD jacks to avoid the "twist". I raise the tongue jack to take the weight off the bars to a degree. I was just curious though how others do it. My driver is not an impact type. I know that any twist is not good and that is why I have been alternating between sides as I lift the WD jacks. Also, how do you all or, yous guys mark your stopping point on your WD jacks?

P.S. Did you know the plural of you all is "all y'all" referring to more than one group? Just a tidbit of southern lingo stuff since I used the words in a sentence! (for fun)
__________________
WBCCI 8653
2015 Ford F-150 3.5 Ecobeast 3.55 Lariat
rodsterinfl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2014, 10:33 PM   #945
Rivet Master
 
SteveSueMac's Avatar

 
2012 27' Flying Cloud
W , New England
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 4,867
Quote:
Originally Posted by rodsterinfl View Post

OK, here is my scenario. Last week I was hitching up. Once I secured the stinger to the hitch I raised the electric trailer frame jack which in turn raised the truck. I then pulled out my electric screwdriver set to low and used it to make two visits to each side of the hitch WD jacks alternating between while raising the bars. I notice strain on the frame. I completed the lifting then lowered the tongue jack placing the distributed load on the trailer and truck. As I began to pull forward there was a loud noise. I got out to look and a rivet had popped off on the front of the trailer.

I am asking how to best lift the WD jacks to avoid the "twist". I raise the tongue jack to take the weight off the bars to a degree. I was just curious though how others do it. My driver is not an impact type. I know that any twist is not good and that is why I have been alternating between sides as I lift the WD jacks. Also, how do you all or, yous guys mark your stopping point on your WD jacks?
The process you describe sounds very similar to the one I use - back the stinger in to the head, latch and pin it, raise the tongue jack, tighten the weight jacks to desired level, then lower everything (connect safety chains, breakaway cable, 7-pin, etc).

I use a closed ratchet wrench to adjust the weight jacks. On that wrench, I have a piece of tape that marks 6" so I can place the bottom of the wrench on the a-frame and see the tape align with the bottom of the raised sleeve. That 6" was determined after multiple trips to the scales and adjustments through driving. Your distance will vary.

What I don't understand in your process is how much WD you're applying when you hitch and how do you know it's right? Do you have 1000 or 1400# bars? Are you overloading your hitch receiver? How much weight are you returning to the tow vehicle's front axle? Are you consistently applying the same amount? When you pulled forward, was the tongue jack fully raised off the ground and enough to clear the bars? You say you noticed strain on the frame - what did you notice and was it on the trailer's a-frame or your truck's frame? What "twist" did you see?

Sorry for so many questions. I got most of what you wrote but I'm having a hard time "seeing" this in my head ...

Also, I'm not sure whether the popped rivet is or isn't related to your hitching...
__________________
SteveSueMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2014, 10:33 PM   #946
cwf
Rivet Master
 
cwf's Avatar

 
1999 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Hillsboro , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 5,509
Images: 2
All y'all ... Rodsterinfl!!

I measure the amount I have lifted.. i have decided I will add a circle of tape around the jack so when I see the tape, I have reached the proper WD set.

I have never seen the frame twist... I can see why you are concerned.. I don't think I want to look...

So.. where did you "pop" a rivet?
__________________
Peace and Blessings..
Channing
WBCCI# 30676
cwf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2014, 10:44 PM   #947
Rivet Master
 
rodsterinfl's Avatar

 
2006 25' Safari
Fort Myers , Florida
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,143
Images: 4
I too measure the jack height but I use the straight wrench that I use on the hitch as a measure to just past half on each side. I have 1400# bars as per Sean. On my other hitch I had it to a science. On this one, I am more "about here" using the just past half length on the WD jack height. The strain is the A frame of the trailer a tiny bit of lift. When I set the jack for the first time, I used the truck wheel well height method to set it. I felt comfortable doing that after hours of working with it and three CAT scale visits on the other hitch as a reference. The rivet popped on the front panel on the lower right side. The twisting is not severe I just note a slight movement of the frame- thus the alternating method. I move like a turtle during the process so I do not think there could be damage but the rivet was a wow- maybe even not related.

I have not come up with a marked method on the jacks yet. Nor have I visited the CAT scale since my initial visit to dial it in better. Would raising the truck even more help?
__________________
WBCCI 8653
2015 Ford F-150 3.5 Ecobeast 3.55 Lariat
rodsterinfl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2014, 03:05 AM   #948
Rivet Master
 
switz's Avatar

 
2014 30' Classic
2015 23' International
2013 25' FB International
Apache Junction , Arizona
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,346
Images: 8
My truck stays level regardless of load due to the air bag suspension. I make sure the corner under stabilizer trailer jacks are retracted.

After the stinger is seated and locked into place, the safety chains, seven wire plug and breakaway pin are connected. I do things by location. Then I tighten the WD jacks to the proper measurement using a tape measure. Then I retract the jack stand. There is a slight lowering of the assembly while the truck air pump puts more pressure into the air bags. Then I store the wheel chocks and do a last walk around before moving.

When disconnecting, after putting the wheel chocks in place, I lower the jack stand until it is solid on the ground. I then unscrew the WD jacks until they bars are floppy loose. After I disconnect the safety chains, seven way plug and break away brake wire, I pull the pins and rotate the lock bars away from the stinger. I then futz a little with the elevation of the jack stand to make sure it is the usual height off the ground and then pull away.

The twisting of the "A" frame never occurred to me, but one could tighten and loosen the WD jacks in one inch increments switching side to side to minimize twist forces. In a perfect world, there would be two folks, one on each side, that could tighten and loosen the WD jacks at the same time.
__________________
WBCCI Life Member 5123, AIR 70341, 4CU, WD9EMC

TV - 2012 Dodge 2500 4x4 Cummins HO, automatic, Centramatics, Kelderman level ride airbag suspension, bed shell

2014 31' Classic model 30 twin beds, 50 amp service, 900 watt solar system, Centramatics, Dill TPMS, disc brakes, 16" tires & wheels
switz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2014, 05:16 AM   #949
Rivet Master
 
SteveSueMac's Avatar

 
2012 27' Flying Cloud
W , New England
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 4,867
Quote:
Originally Posted by switz View Post
...snip...
In a perfect world, there would be two folks, one on each side, that could tighten and loosen the WD jacks at the same time.
In a PERFECT world, the WD jacks would be controlled by a pair of electric switches on the same side of the trailer so you can independently raise or lower each WD jack while standing in one location.

I know - first world problem :-)
__________________
SteveSueMac is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2014, 11:28 PM   #950
Rivet Master
 
2016 30' Classic
Erie , Colorado
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,244
Images: 1
For setting the jack heights I cut a piece of 3/4 PVC to the correct length, ran a piece of string through it. Run the jacks to approximate height with a 20v Porter Cable drill (ditto on not using am impact wrench or if you do prepare to replace the split pin on the gear head of the jack) to run the approx height and check with the piece of PVC. Usually my eye ball height is pretty close. Same drill used to put the stabilizer jacks up and down. Make attach/detach of the trailer go rapidly.
__________________
Gary
2015 Classic
2015 GMC Sierra 2500HD Duramax
ProPride
NØVPN
ghaynes755 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2014, 08:40 AM   #951
Rivet Master
 
Pahaska's Avatar
 
2014 Interstate Ext. Coach
Austin (Hays County) , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 5,381
Images: 13
New bars

I ordered my PPP on line with the 1000# bars, which was a mistake. The 1000# bars were barely adequate and I have always had a lot of bouncing on bad roads.

I recently made a trade with another forum member, my 1000# bars and bushings for his 1400# bars and bushings. It made quite a difference. I just put 3000 miles on the trailer and the whole rig felt much more solid.

I did notice one drawback for the 1400# bars. With the 1000# bars, I could store my stinger in the hitch with the hitch staying nice and level. With the 1400# bars, the hitch droops way down and the bars tend to swing out to the sides. I found that I could put a bungee cord between the bars and avoid most of the problem, but I now bring the stinger home in the bed of the truck instead of leaving it in the hitch.
__________________
John W. Irwin
2014 Touring Coach, "Sabre-Dog IV"
WBCCI #9632
Pahaska is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2014, 12:05 AM   #952
Don't forget your cat nap
 
Ag&Au's Avatar

 
Port Orchard , Washington
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4,463
Images: 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska View Post
I ordered my PPP on line with the 1000# bars, which was a mistake. The 1000# bars were barely adequate and I have always had a lot of bouncing on bad roads.

I recently made a trade with another forum member, my 1000# bars and bushings for his 1400# bars and bushings. It made quite a difference. I just put 3000 miles on the trailer and the whole rig felt much more solid.

I did notice one drawback for the 1400# bars. With the 1000# bars, I could store my stinger in the hitch with the hitch staying nice and level. With the 1400# bars, the hitch droops way down and the bars tend to swing out to the sides. I found that I could put a bungee cord between the bars and avoid most of the problem, but I now bring the stinger home in the bed of the truck instead of leaving it in the hitch.
If I understand the problem correctly, I believe you could lift the WD jacks a bit and level the hitch.

Ken
__________________

__________________
Ag&Au is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Looking at new TVs, Input please Mr & Mrs S Tow Vehicles 46 03-16-2012 11:39 AM
DuraSafe Locks, Any Users ? knunut Off Topic Forum 3 02-08-2011 10:44 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by



Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:51 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.