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Old 06-30-2014, 09:09 PM   #925
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I'm here in Austin and have 1000# bars that I would swap with your 1400# bars. The 1000# bars are just a little light for my Classic.

Message me and we can set something up.
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Old 06-30-2014, 09:12 PM   #926
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Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Ok - first, congrats. Great hitch!

Thanks!

Second - you're not stuck. .......................
Question - can you remove your 1,000# WD bars without removing the WD bar "sleeve"? i.e. - the normal rotate towards the front approach.

Or is that the HaHa?

Ya know, there is bound to be a welder around here that can make something "unique" (read $$) out of my current collection of W/D bars

I have Husky 500/800, Husky 800/1000 and now PP3 1,4000's


Can anyone give me an OD of "lighter than" PP 1,400# bars? Y'all don't just have a pair laying around in the "man cave"?

I will call Sean (PP) tomorrow, (I HATE getting calls from folks "after hours" myself) but I just got cleaned up from a "trail run" on the hitch (at home with no TT versus the TT at storage) and have to think about something with tonight's libation!

Thanks all.
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Old 06-30-2014, 09:17 PM   #927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska View Post
I'm here in Austin and have 1000# bars that I would swap with your 1400# bars. The 1000# bars are just a little light for my Classic.

Message me and we can set something up.

This forum is Heaven.......................

Let me check with Sean in the AM regarding the appropriate # rating for my trailer and I will email you. I'm close to you - I'm near Hwy 71 and RR620
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Old 07-01-2014, 11:56 AM   #928
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PP3 WD bars

Talked to Sean this AM (he called me back after I left a message in about 4 minutes!)

PP3 1,400# WD bars are a "different animal" - larger OD (1.5") and require a specific bar bushing insert. (1.55" approx.)

And, the lighter PP3 WD bars are "standard", as I thought. So my 800# Husky bars (1.4" OD) will work with the appropriate (smaller) WD bushing / insert.

Trade pending with Pahaska - he will get 1,400# bars and bushings

I will get 1,000# bars and the smaller bushings, and if the 1,000# bars are too much, I can use my Husky 800# bars!

Win / Win!
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Old 07-15-2014, 05:49 PM   #929
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Ok PP users - totally left field question for you.


I'm NOT advocating doing this - I'm asking a purely hypothetical question...

Would the PP prevent sway if the WD bars were totally removed from the system?

Of course you would never do this in practice. I'm trying to understand how "integrated" or not is the WD mechanism with the projection of the pivot point (which I think is the main reason why you can induce sway with this hitch). Seems that projection comes from the 4-point trapezoid head an is completely separate from the WD jacks and bars.

What do you think?
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Old 07-15-2014, 05:55 PM   #930
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Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Ok PP users - totally left field question for you.


I'm NOT advocating doing this - I'm asking a purely hypothetical question...

Would the PP prevent sway if the WD bars were totally removed from the system?

Of course you would never do this in practice. I'm trying to understand how "integrated" or not is the WD mechanism with the projection of the pivot point (which I think is the main reason why you can induce sway with this hitch). Seems that projection comes from the 4-point trapezoid head an is completely separate from the WD jacks and bars.

What do you think?
I have a HAHA, but I believe the answer is "yes" for both hitches.
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Old 07-15-2014, 06:20 PM   #931
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Yes, the antisway feature is inherent in design of the haha and ProPride. That is why the YouTube video of the Lego test works.

My $.02.
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Old 07-16-2014, 06:20 AM   #932
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Question on raising jacks when hitched, what are some strategies for lessening the twist on the frame. I raise the truck high but note there is torque on the frame. Ideas?

oh, and on the bars, when I purchased my PP from the original purchaser, there were two different bars!. Sean straightened it out but that meant that the first owner was towing with different weighted bars.
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Old 07-16-2014, 07:04 AM   #933
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If you are talking about the stabilizing jacks, you need to raise those before you hitch up the truck.
Larry
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:01 AM   #934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodsterinfl View Post
Question on raising jacks when hitched, what are some strategies for lessening the twist on the frame. I raise the truck high but note there is torque on the frame. Ideas?

oh, and on the bars, when I purchased my PP from the original purchaser, there were two different bars!. Sean straightened it out but that meant that the first owner was towing with different weighted bars.
Is there a preferred method to raise the screw jacks (w.d. bars)? Maybe I should read the instructions. Like you I raise the truck after connected, using the tongue jack. Then I raise one side much of the 6 1/2" I'm looking for, then go to the other side and raise it. Back and forth a bit to avoid the frame twist and I think it's easier to turn the jack screws.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:34 AM   #935
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I don't remember if it's in the guide or not, but when you connect, raise your tongue jack up and lift the connected rig several inches. It makes it easier to apply the WD jacks. When you drop the rig down, the full WD applies. Also, DON'T use an impact wrench on the jack screws (ask me how I know :-/ ).
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:39 AM   #936
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I raise the WD jacks before retracting the jack stand. Most days I can get the 6.5" travel point with the hand speed wrench. Other days I need the little wrench that came with the hitch.
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Old 07-16-2014, 08:41 AM   #937
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Sorry, I see we are talking about the WD jacks.
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Old 07-16-2014, 10:32 AM   #938
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If you are talking about the trailer frame:
Since the WD jacks attach to the WD bars on the outside of the trailer frame, raising the bars with the jacks will cause some torsion force on the trailer frame and the jack stems. However I have never noticed any visual sign of this, but neither have I looked for any. The only solution to this (IMO non problem) would be to redesign the attachment linkage so there is a connection on both sides of the A-frame rail.

If this is not what you are talking about, then I have no clue what you're talking about. Try re-describing more precisely what jacks, what frame, and what torsion you are talking about. There are several of all three in the tow vehicle/hitch/trailer system.

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