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Old 06-17-2014, 10:03 AM   #911
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Measure from the center of the yoke's tail to the A Frame on each side. If its is centered, the distance will be the same. You should also insure he mounting brackets on the frame for the yoke tail support are both the same distance from the A frame's apex.

Ken
After some thought, I am probably not using the right name for the part I am talking about. I am talking about the tail that is under the A frame.

Ken
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Old 06-17-2014, 10:09 AM   #912
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[QUOTE=ghaynes755;1470531]How would you avoid a bump in a braking situation other than straight ahead? If you were turning at all it might happen unless the brakes on the trailer were so well tuned that they match or exceed the deceleration of the tow vehicle.

Wouldn't setting them a bit to high simply wear out the AS brakes as with a higher setting the AS is dragging the tow vehicle to a stop?[/QUOTE]

Yes.

However I feel it is more important to come to a safe coordinated stop. The ideal situation is to have the trailer pulling back slightly on the TV. I am more concerned about that, than I am about possibly replacing the trailer brake pads a little sooner. It is much better to have the trailer pulling back on the TV, than have it pushing forward and possibly left or right.

The whole stop has to be made. That requires a finite amount of work being performed. Where it is being performed depends on the trailer brake adjustment. If you adjust the trailer brake to save their brake pads, you are simply causing more wear on the TV brake pads. Choose your poison. I choose the one with the most controlled stop.

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Old 06-17-2014, 11:20 AM   #913
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oh, I am less worried about brakes wearing a bit sooner...my controller set at say 6 when heavy braking at say 60mph, it produced a noticeable push forward for me...I figure the alignment issue with the yolk could be a problem, but not so much in that scenario to push the truck very much forward...once I went up and up...at 8.5, I can nail those brakes and it does not push me forward....also when braking at slower speeks I do not notice any particular hard pulling back or "jerkiness" of the trailer brakes...

I think that even at 8.5, the brake controller still works progressively with the amount of brake pressure you apply and so for "most" braking I think at 8.5 it is not likely excessive...rather I suspect it is at 8.5 for my particular TV/TT combo just right?

PS - unrelated, but man do I love having my jake brake going down a steep georgia mountain...one good thing perhaps about my PPP setup that seems to favor that it must be at least in pretty good alignment is that when using the jake brake heavy on steep incline, I am not getting a bump with it at that point even without applying brakes....not sure that means much but thought I would throw it out there...ill be checking the alignment as well as I suspect that it is perhaps a bit off as I get this wiggle right after complete stop....
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Old 06-17-2014, 11:22 AM   #914
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that is, that even if alignment and hitch install is perfect...if trailer brake is not set properly, it will still wanna push forward against the tow vehicle...even if PPP is out of line, it should not come forward to push on the truck when braking at such a speed I would think?
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Old 06-17-2014, 03:19 PM   #915
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that is, that even if alignment and hitch install is perfect...if trailer brake is not set properly, it will still wanna push forward against the tow vehicle...even if PPP is out of line, it should not come forward to push on the truck when braking at such a speed I would think?
The actual speed is not the factor. It is the negative acceleration that is causing the relative motion. The inertia of the trailer wants to keep it moving forward.

If you mess with the ProPride head while unhitched, you will notice as it swings to one side or the other, this puts the hitch head further back on the trailer tongue a small amount. Therefore the converse is true. If the force of braking the truck is greater enough than the force braking the trailer, the trailer will want to move closer to the TV. It can do this by swinging the hitch head to one side or the other. When the hitch head reaches the stop, it will bump against the stop. That is the bump. if the mounting bolts on the A frame that hold the tail under the A frame in place are not tight enough, they will slip and the hitch will be off center until you do the same thing in an opposite direction.

For practical purposes it is no possible to have the hitch head so perfectly centered that no sideway forces will be generated in this scenario. Therefore the best solution is to keep the trailer braking heavier than the TV's. I have always set my brake controllers for maximum braking with any trailer I have owned. I have never had that cause a problem.

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Old 06-17-2014, 03:29 PM   #916
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Ahhhh - had not considered that

I need to at some point soon check torque on all bolts on the Hitch as well after establishing center

I'm very pleased so far as I have not experienced what I perceive as "sway" - have watched my mirrors in a number of situations including big trucks flying past me

I have felt what I perceive as the semi sucking or pushing my rig but it never has altered my stability it seems

I've finally figured out hitching problems - most were because every time you move a bit on uneven surfaces the WD bars can tense up on one side or both and need to fiddle a bit - last two times now have been a breeze
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Old 06-17-2014, 06:11 PM   #917
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I'm glad you guys are talking about integrated brake controllers some. I wonder how mine in the '13 F150 will act in regards to potential "braking bump" with the PP. I have been towing Pete with the Blue Ox hitch and the F150 controller on 10-max setting, and almost drag the coach tires at 10-15 mph testing.

Some time back we had a Hensley with an '03 Duramax towing a heavy Sunnybrook tt, with a Prodigy controller. I had it set to boost b2 I think, along with like 7 on the setting, and it eliminated the "bump". I'm hoping that the F150 controller without a "boost" feature like Prodigy has will not result in the "bump". We'll see..............
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Old 06-19-2014, 05:14 AM   #918
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F150 brake controller

I have my 2011 F150 brake controller set to max, and have never felt a bump. I have on a couple of occasions had to brake very heavily and felt the truck/trailer both performed very nice. I am very pleased with the setup and feel fortunate not to have some of the issues others have experienced. We are traveling thru the Smokey's now and couldn't be happier with the truck's performance.
Unrelated side note, someone had mentioned spraying the PP with silicone to help the uncoupling, it really works, thanks.
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Old 06-30-2014, 06:58 PM   #919
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PP3 weight bar mounting sleeves

I am now the proud owner of a used PP3 that came with 1,400# bars.

I will contact PP regarding this, but is always good to hear from the hive!

This thread solidified my desire to purchase a PPP hitch as my TT has a low "B.O.B. ratio" and a bit of a light tongue (working on that) - so it "dances" a bit - not dramatic, but.......

Focus - My tongue weight is around 525# (measured with Sherline) , and TT weighs in at 4,900# ready to camp so 1,400# bars seem to be overkill.

I already have a "collection" of WD bars from my previous Husky WD hitch and used 500 / 800# bars with that setup. Worked fine.

So I was thinking.................

The Husky bars have an approx. 1.4" OD on the bar end that mounts in the WD hitch. Problem is the PP3 1,400# bars have a 1.5" OD and the inside of the PP WD bushing sleeve is approx. 1.55"

Other than that, they are identical in retainer cut, length, height, bar curve radius, etc..........


I seem to remember that the PP3 bars that are lighter than the 1,400# bars have a different mounting setup, or is that the HaHa?

Question - Does PP make a smaller ID sleeve for the lighter bars that will fit my "Husky" bars?

Or, am I stuck with the PP 1,400# bars.........unless I buy "PP" lighter bars? Or can I even do that...........?

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Old 06-30-2014, 07:08 PM   #920
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If you are dinking around with your PP I would suggest you do so AFTER you have spoken to Sean Woodruff. Give him the numbers for your rig and he can tell you which size bars you ought to be using. Don't compromise all the wonderful features of your hitch by doing a self-diagnosis on what may (or may not) work. For sure, be safe -- both for you and others on the road.
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Old 06-30-2014, 07:22 PM   #921
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If you are dinking around with your PP I would suggest you do so AFTER you have spoken to Sean Woodruff. .......

Appreciate your concern but I'm not "dinking around" nor making any changes - just asking a question to a broad population before I possibly have to expend more funds...............that's the way I was brought up.

The guy you have to buy from comes last in a search for information.
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Old 06-30-2014, 07:30 PM   #922
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Appreciate your concern but I'm not "dinking around" nor making any changes - just asking a question to a broad population before I possibly have to expend more funds...............that's the way I was brought up.

The guy you have to buy from comes last in a search for information.
Good point! Knowledge is power
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Old 06-30-2014, 07:36 PM   #923
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...snip...

I seem to remember that the PP3 bars that are lighter than the 1,400# bars have a different mounting setup, or is that the HaHa?

Question - Does PP make a smaller ID sleeve for the lighter bars that will fit my "Husky" bars?

Or, am I stuck with the PP 1,400# bars.........unless I buy "PP" lighter bars? Or can I even do that...........?

Ok - first, congrats. Great hitch!

Second - you're not stuck. As someone who has the 1000# bars and might want the 1400s (that's what Sean recommended when I purchased, but I was so much smarter than him ;-) ), I'm told they're completely interchangeable (within the PP family - not mixed with other bars though Sean could tell you for sure).

You and I should send Sean our bars for exchange. I'll end up with yours, you'll end up with mine and all will be right with the world :-)
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Old 06-30-2014, 07:59 PM   #924
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Sean swapped out a longer hitch bar when I got my new truck -- no charge, shipping only, and the box he sent the new one in worked for returning the shorter bar. While I don't know if he'd do the same for a weight bar change, it'd sure be worth a phone call...and based on my experience, if you call him on Sunday, he'll answer his mobile! Wish every company I've done business with was as responsive and professional as he's been over the past 3 years!
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