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Old 07-26-2015, 06:44 AM   #1241
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Originally Posted by Ohiobrits View Post
Couple of updates. I did speak with Sean and he will send a replacement jack at the end of the month. All his inventory is "on the way out" on hitches. He gave some advice on disassembly which I may try this week if I have time. He suggested inspecting the threaded rod that runs up the center of the jack and cleaning it up if there is some thread damage.

SteveSueMack, BAL has a tongue jack that has the same silver cover and a side manual handle. Sean probably has a version made without the foot would be my guess.

I did disassemble the jack to take a look at it and regrease. Some photos below in case anyone else needs to do this.

You will need to remove the straps that connect the jacks to the WD bars so remover the 2 lock nuts on the bottom of the U bolts, move the WD bars out of the way and lift the strap up off the jack. Note - I would recommend replacing the lock nuts, they are only a few cents and you do not want them coming loose.

Once that is done, remove the silver cap off the top of the jack. Use a flat blade screwdriver to ease the bend over tabs out a bit and it pops off.

You will now be able to see the gears.

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There is a roll pin that holds the vertical bevel gear in place. Use a suitably sized punch to drive it out. The shaft can then be removed with the gear. Backside view of gear is below showing the notch for the roll pin (with pin in place) and notch for the dowel pin used for the horizontal gear.

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The horizontal gear will just lift off using a flat blade screwdriver under the edge for leverage. It's a pretty snug fit.

Once off, the jack sleeve just lifts off vertically. Once the jack sleeve is off, you will see the threaded rod with a bearing on top sandwiched between 2 washers. The top washer will probably be stuck to the top of the jack sleeve so make sure you do not lose it.

I don't have pictures of the threaded rod (I was covered in grease by this point). My rod looked OK but did not appear to have any grease which I fixed 😀

Reassembly is the reverse. Tap the roll pin back in using a hammer to get it going and use your punch to drive it home. The whole process is fairly easy to do. If your jacks are getting a bit stiff or noisy, you may want to consider this maintenance. I found replacement roll pins at Lowes but no punches, Tractor Supply had both.

My jack is now a little better (I can almost get it up to 6" with my drill) but it is still noisy. I think the bevel gears are not properly aligned which has been an issue from day 1 it would seem. It was more noisy right out of the box than the other side. Probably just getting worn now which is making it worse. I'll be fitting a new one at the end of the month.
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Old 07-28-2015, 01:06 PM   #1242
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Several people have asked for pictures of the zerk fitting I have on my ball enabling me to easily grease it during maintenance. See attached. Today was the day that i used the grease gun and made sure everything was greased.

>>ron<<
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Old 09-29-2015, 06:14 PM   #1243
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Hello fellow ProPridians 😃

I reported a while back that Colonial replaced my 1000# bars with 1400# bars and basically disconnected and reinstalled the entire unit.

I've had a couple of "pops" since then - similar to the sound I've had before the adjustment when the main hitch unit would "pop" out of alignment from a near jackknife back-in angle. Only, no tough angles.

So after unhitching last time, I looked at the alignment and it's perfectly centered - so it's not moving as it has in the past. I moved the main hitch head/yoke and there seems to be ton of play (up down left right) and I can't recall if it was the same before the adjustment. I remember some amount of play but can't recall if it was as much as I'm seeing now.

How would you describe the amount of movement in your main hitch head unit/yoke when it's not connected to your TV?

Thanks!
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Old 09-29-2015, 07:31 PM   #1244
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I can check this weekend. Maybe a call in to Sean too?
I am running 1400s on mine 27FB sig. 1000 lbs on the tongue with F250. Total trailer weight just under 7000lbs.
and ..... about 6.25 inches up on the jacks
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Old 09-30-2015, 07:10 AM   #1245
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Thanks for the installation post on the PP. Mine arrived a few weeks ago and I'm learning all I can about it before my AS arrives in Dec. I will continue to watch this post with interest.
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Old 09-30-2015, 02:33 PM   #1246
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KUDOS for Sean

About 2 weeks ago I did a trip back to Ohio. Family stuff and also a chance to get a few warranty items done on my 2015 Classic at JS. I also wanted to get an alignment question answered on my ProPride so I setup a meeting with Sean in Grand Blanc, MI.

Folks, if you ever want to understand outstanding customer service Sean is one of the best examples out there. My question/issue was a puzzler that we spent about 5 hours noodling/experimenting and yes, did a bit of swearing. Changed a couple of parts, actually replaced all of the bearings in the head (should say Sean's dad replaced the bearings), multiple test runs around the neighborhood with Sean in the bed of the truck watching the PP. More head scratching...

In the end we basically think it may be a misaligned receiver mount on the truck. The 'guy' answer is get a new truck .

While we didn't totally solve it the experience was invaluable. The customer service is in the WOW double WOW stratospheric range.

Sean a really big sincere thank you for your support.

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Old 09-30-2015, 04:01 PM   #1247
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Your experience, IMHO, is exactly how any customer service should be. I also had a lot of questions pre-purchase from Shaun, and he answered all my queries with accurate information and great attention to detail.

Clone that gentleman now! He's just super.

And, for the record, I did not get anything past a hard sell from the other guys.

So now you know one of the primary reasons I bought a ProPride setup...😀


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Old 09-30-2015, 05:26 PM   #1248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
I've had a couple of "pops" since then - similar to the sound I've had before the adjustment when the main hitch unit would "pop" out of alignment from a near jackknife back-in angle. Only, no tough angles.

So after unhitching last time, I looked at the alignment and it's perfectly centered - so it's not moving as it has in the past. I moved the main hitch head/yoke and there seems to be ton of play (up down left right) and I can't recall if it was the same before the adjustment. I remember some amount of play but can't recall if it was as much as I'm seeing now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghaynes755
---My question/issue was a puzzler that we spent about 5 hours noodling/experimenting and yes, did a bit of swearing. Changed a couple of parts, actually replaced all of the bearings in the head (should say Sean's dad replaced the bearings), multiple test runs around the neighborhood with Sean in the bed of the truck watching the PP. More head scratching...
Steve,

If it were my hitch, I would pull all four bearings and closely inspect them.

Even if I found no indication of defects, I would replace all four. They're not that expensive.

Might not solve the problem -- but apparently Sean thought it was worth trying.

Ron
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Old 09-30-2015, 06:51 PM   #1249
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Thanks, Ron - are you saying Gary's post is about the same question I'm asking? I didn't get that inference (did I miss that, Gary??).

I'll check in to that - may give Sean a call first.

I did notice that when testing the torque on the stinger assembly bolts, they needed a bit of tightening to hit the required 150# so it made me wonder if anything else was not fully torqued (though I think the only other spec in the manual is the 250# on the yoke - I failed to check those....).
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Old 09-30-2015, 07:47 PM   #1250
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Does anyone remember 'White Out'? I put a 'drop' of it on parts/joints where I want to see if there is 'movement'. If stuff moves that isn't supposed to, you will see the separation of the White Out.
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Old 10-01-2015, 07:30 AM   #1251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Hello fellow ProPridians 😃

I reported a while back that Colonial replaced my 1000# bars with 1400# bars and basically disconnected and reinstalled the entire unit.

I've had a couple of "pops" since then - similar to the sound I've had before the adjustment when the main hitch unit would "pop" out of alignment from a near jackknife back-in angle. Only, no tough angles.

So after unhitching last time, I looked at the alignment and it's perfectly centered - so it's not moving as it has in the past. I moved the main hitch head/yoke and there seems to be ton of play (up down left right) and I can't recall if it was the same before the adjustment. I remember some amount of play but can't recall if it was as much as I'm seeing now.

How would you describe the amount of movement in your main hitch head unit/yoke when it's not connected to your TV?

Thanks!

SteveSueMac,

I have about 1" free movement vertically at each side (rocking the head side to side grasping the yoke) when unhitched. There is a very small amount of play vertically between the ball on the PP head and the cup on the AS. This is just normal free play between hitch ball and trailer cup - I'd say about 1/4" maybe less.

The head can also angle side to side for turns of course on the pivot point arms.
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:27 AM   #1252
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Steve my issue wasn't the same. It was a tracking issue. Popping from a large angle is probably just the friction/force in the movement of the tension bars rotating in their sockets. Might not have enough grease or a dry spot.

Having seen the head disassembled and the bearing install it would take a heck of a blow or abuse to damage the bearings. There are two on each side, top and bottom. Pretty massive. Really nothing in there that can pop.

If you can move the head side to side while it is hanging and it moves 'freely' with no noise or binding you should be fine. It does take some push to move it left-right, it isn't sloppy. Up and down with the yoke is pivoting the ball. Maybe your ball is dry and doing the pop sound.
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Old 10-01-2015, 11:36 AM   #1253
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SteveSueMac, the popping may be the receiver end of your stinger that slides into the receiver in your TV. I was chasing a very disconcerting noise for a few months. Thought it was the jack sleeves, greased them, thought it was the straps down from the jacks to the WD bars, greased those. It ended up being the stinger in my receiver. If it has some free play side to side or up and down it will make noise even with a large amount of WD load applied. I made some shims to take out the play. Prior to doing this I would always get a load pop pulling away after hitching up and then noise making turns, particularly if the turn was sharp.

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Old 10-01-2015, 11:39 AM   #1254
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohiobrits View Post
SteveSueMac, the popping may be the receiver end of your stinger that slides into the receiver in your TV. I was chasing a very disconcerting noise for a few months. Thought it was the jack sleeves, greased them, thought it was the straps down from the jacks to the WD bars, greased those. It ended up being the stinger in my receiver. If it has some free play side to side or up and down it will make noise even with a large amount of WD load applied. I made some shims to take out the play. Prior to doing this I would always get a load pop pulling away after hitching up and then noise making turns, particularly if the turn was sharp.

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Ditto!!!
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Old 10-01-2015, 06:57 PM   #1255
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Thanks gang. Lots too options to inspect. Can't get to it this weekend but will report back when I can!
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Old 10-02-2015, 11:02 AM   #1256
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Nice shims, I would definitely not be able to do those. I have the same problem.

Going back to the extra zerk. This is a very stupid question and consider that I know very little of this stuff (installing the ProPride is my greatest achievement, I don't even know how to change oil).

What kind of hardware I need to install my own grease zerk (including sizes and tools) and how would I go about doing it? Explain it like I'm 5 or something . Assume I only have a drill and the basic toolbox.
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Old 10-05-2015, 06:23 PM   #1257
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Steve,

I see maybe couple of vertical inches and several left to right .I had planned to measure, but forgot. I do have play in my receiver for sure, both vertically and side to side. I do get noise on occasion, mostly on a semi aggressive stop or start. I also plan to check greasing ball next time out.

Is it as easy as releasing all WD jacks and raising AS using hitch jack and releasing ball coupler??? Anyone?

Can you believe that the spellchecker on my phone put breastfeeding in the middle of this reponse? How rude!
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Old 10-06-2015, 09:42 PM   #1258
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Steve,

I see maybe couple of vertical inches and several left to right .I had planned to measure, but forgot. I do have play in my receiver for sure, both vertically and side to side. I do get noise on occasion, mostly on a semi aggressive stop or start. I also plan to check greasing ball next time out.

Is it as easy as releasing all WD jacks and raising AS using hitch jack and releasing ball coupler??? Anyone?

Can you believe that the spellchecker on my phone put breastfeeding in the middle of this reponse? How rude!

DoublTrouble - I believe you are right, disconnect the WD bars, release ball coupler and jack up the AS. The yoke at the rear may limit upward movement to some degree. If so, I would think you could carefully move the TV forward to completely remove the head once the ball on the PP clears the AS cup. Have not tried it myself, who wants to give it a go?
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Old 10-06-2015, 09:48 PM   #1259
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Just to clarify, you would want to support the PP head using the stinger inserted into your TV and the PP head as normal (as if you were going to tow). The full weight of the PP head will be supported by the TV this way once you decouple the AS from the PP.
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Old 10-06-2015, 09:59 PM   #1260
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So - would the procedure be:

1) connect like you're going to tow

2) disconnect the WD bars (I assume with those u-bolts at the bottom of the WD jacks?)

3) open the coupler latch

4) lower the tongue jack to drop the ball out of the coupler

5) grease ball then reverse steps

?
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