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Ohiobrits · 07-18-2015, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Sure thing. I'm just amazed I can find nothing on the jacks themselves! Even the BAL site itself has no information. Just weird!

You might want to call Sean. I don't know how hooking up your WD chains from another hitch might/might not work...

Even if the entire jack is toast, I bet Sean could ship one to you...

Good luck!

Couple of updates. I did speak with Sean and he will send a replacement jack at the end of the month. All his inventory is "on the way out" on hitches. He gave some advice on disassembly which I may try this week if I have time. He suggested inspecting the threaded rod that runs up the center of the jack and cleaning it up if there is some thread damage.

SteveSueMack, BAL has a tongue jack that has the same silver cover and a side manual handle. Sean probably has a version made without the foot would be my guess.

chracatoa · 07-19-2015, 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

I'm not near my trailer and don't recall where the pin was located but your description sounds right to me. I was at a rally and snapped it with my drill. Bruce helped identify the broken part and told me how to find a replacement at the local hardware store. Then he told me to never use that tool on those jacks again and I said "yes sir"

Interesting, I think we can use drills. If you look at the video #6 on the ProPride site they use a drill. I always use a drill though I move the tongue up to make it easier. If I can't do that (sometimes the WD bars are in the way) I use the drill until it stops and then the wrench.

Ag&Au · 07-19-2015, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chracatoa

Interesting, I think we can use drills. If you look at the video #6 on the ProPride site they use a drill. I always use a drill though I move the tongue up to make it easier. If I can't do that (sometimes the WD bars are in the way) I use the drill until it stops and then the wrench.

I do not, nor will I, use a drill. However, I think the proper thing to do is use a drill that will stall before reaching the breaking point of the pin.

It would seem to me to be a good idea if those who use drills post the specs of their drill and whether or not they have broken the pin yet.

Ken

ghaynes755 · 07-19-2015, 11:08 AM

I use a 20V Porter Cable. Torque setting at max. Low speed setting. Two PP's and have not broken a pin. However I did break a pin using the 20V Porter Cable Impact Wrench from the set. Don't use an impact wrench. Pin is easy to replace.

gomotomoto · 07-19-2015, 11:28 AM

Maintenance recommendations seem to only be tending to the grease zerks on the bars when they become noisy during turns. is there anything else I should be doing?

This thread is so long - I apologize if the information has already been laid out. I just can't seem to search efficiently on my iPhone.

lsbrodsky · 07-19-2015, 12:08 PM

I use a B&D 12v drill, max torque and it stalls about 1/2" before the jack is set right, so I use the supplied wrench for the last bit. Never had a problem with that approach.
As for lube, I have only lubed the zircs(zerks?) and the ball. Do I need to do something with the jacks?

Larry

chracatoa · 07-19-2015, 12:51 PM

I have a RYOBI drill 18v P202. I use set 21 (heavy drilling) and low speed (1) - since low has more power and torque.

cwf · 07-19-2015, 03:04 PM

Rigid impact/drill set to high torque, non-impact, low gear. Tongue jack holding load.

SteveSueMac · 07-19-2015, 03:29 PM

Sorry - I should have said 18v Impact wrench - not electric drill. Don't use those :-)

Morgan guy · 07-19-2015, 03:45 PM

I use a DeWalt 18v, sometimes on high speed sometimes on low speed. I always raise the front end with the power jack to take the strain off the hitch jacks when raising them. I have never broken a pin, about 20,000 miles of towing but I stopped a few times along the way.

carver 1 · 07-20-2015, 04:20 AM

Ditto on using the drill (18 volt craftsman) with the jack raised and then finishing with the wrench. No problems. Routine maintenance with hand grease gun on three zerks. I would not wait until I heard noise to use the grease gun.

>>ron<<

dkottum · 07-20-2015, 06:23 AM

I like to use the stabilizer speed wrench supplied with the Airstream for the ProPride screw jacks, and a compact electric drill for the stabilizers. Snug all of them with the ProPride-supplied ratcheting wrench.

DoublTrouble · 07-20-2015, 09:26 AM

I did use Ryobi drill a few times. I found the process to be noisy. Now use stabilizer speed wrench which is much more peaceful. I do not use the Propride wrench anymore after smashing my pinky finger, losing nail and a pretty sore week.

chracatoa · 07-22-2015, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carver 1

Routine maintenance with hand grease gun on three zerks.
>>ron<<

Wait, three zerks?

carver 1 · 07-23-2015, 04:13 AM

I have an additional zerk fitting on the top of the ball for lubrication.

>>ron<<

SteveSueMac · 07-23-2015, 05:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carver 1

I have an additional zerk fitting on the top of the ball for lubrication.

>>ron<<

Did you add that yourself? I didn't know it could come from the factory that way...

carver 1 · 07-23-2015, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Did you add that yourself? I didn't know it could come from the factory that way...

Steve,

Before installing the PP I drilled and tapped the very top of the hitch to receive the zerk. I'll take a picture later today and post it.

>>ron<<

ghaynes755 · 07-23-2015, 08:34 AM

Since the ball doesn't move/rotate like a standard hitch I simply use a floor jack to drop the head once a year and put some Reese ball grease on it. Old grease usually still looks like new.

dznf0g · 07-23-2015, 09:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ghaynes755

Since the ball doesn't move/rotate like a standard hitch I simply use a floor jack to drop the head once a year and put some Reese ball grease on it. Old grease usually still looks like new.

X2....takes maybe 15 minutes.