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Old 04-16-2014, 11:34 AM   #855
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Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
Ghaynes is spot on. Excellent description of the relationship between unhitching and rehitching.

Ken - the manual is clear about only loosening the WD jacks so they kick loose with your foot. I suspect because if you take them all the way down, you're still out of horizontal alignment. Ghaynes' post is (in my experience) the perfect approach.



Thanks, I will double check the manual, because I did not read mine that way. I read it as that was the minimum you needed to crank the jacks down.


When I unhitch, I lower the tongue jack until it just hits the ground. Then I crank the WD jacks all the way down. I then raise the tongue jack while wiggling the Rock Tamer bar with the other hand. When the Rock Tamer bar is free to rotate and rattle the hitch, I unhook everything and pull the truck away.


The only time I had I problem hooking up was one time when the trailer was on a level spot and the truck's rear wheels were coming up an incline to the trailer when the stinger entered the hitch.


I am going to stick with my story that the WD jacks fully down gives the largest freedom of motion and therefor the most tolerance for slight alignment errors.


Ken
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Old 04-16-2014, 02:32 PM   #856
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Then raise the tongue until I see the coupler head just start to lift. It doesn't lift very much but it is there.
When I raise the tongue in this manner, I place my fingertips vertically on the hitch, with my sides of my fingers against the coupler cup on the tongue, just behind the shield on top of the hitch. Then I raise the tongue jack. That makes it very easy for me to feel the relative motion as the coupler cup starts to lift in relation to the ball. Originally, I did this only at night when I couldn't easily see the cup raise off the ball, but it is so easy that I do it every time I unhitch now. Try it.
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Old 04-16-2014, 02:56 PM   #857
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The jacks only need to be loose. I quickly learned that if I put them all the way down that I had alignment problems hooking back up.

For setting them ready to tow I have a piece of PVC cut to 6.5inches. I run them up, getting good at guessing the approximate height, with my cordless drill and check with the PVC which is on a string. One side up to approximate, other side up to actual and final tune on the first side.

All in all only a few minutes to hook up. Really no worse overall than other type of trailers. Slowest time consuming part is waiting for the tongue jack to retract. That seems like hours....
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Old 04-16-2014, 03:22 PM   #858
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For setting the w.d. jacks I use a sturdy tape measure because I also like to take a look at wheel well height with it. Been thinking of painting some height markings on the jacks though.

The cordless drill works well to move the w.d. jacks and stabilizers. Nearly as easy to use the manual handle supplied for the stabilizers for both.
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Old 04-16-2014, 03:34 PM   #859
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One of the YouTube videos suggested a piece of tape on the socket handle that comes with the ProPride as the method to set wd jack height. That is what I do. One less piece of equipment to keep track of.
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Old 04-16-2014, 03:54 PM   #860
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I too use cordless drill and tape measure - it's a cinch for me so far - hooking back up - I use the jack to raise up the trailer to add tension to WD bars - then tighten WD bars easily - then raise back up the jack.

Does this strain the jack much you think? Not blown a fuse yet....
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Old 04-16-2014, 04:56 PM   #861
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I find it much easier to crank in the WD before I drop the tongue. Easier on the drill. Setting wd height is simple. I have a piece of wood that is exactly the right height between the jack base and the outer jack cylinder, and I use this as a measure stick. Added heavy duty velcro to the back of my stick and it slaps onto the back of the cover of my propane tanks. It's always within easy reach. Some great suggestions in here!
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Old 04-16-2014, 05:08 PM   #862
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I find it much easier to crank in the WD before I drop the tongue. Easier on the drill.
Now I'm confused :-)

Can you say more about what you do? I find getting that last inch on the jacks (up to 6" - measured by a sharpie line on my ratchet tool) is a bit of a strain on the drill. Maybe I'm doing something wrong?
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Old 04-16-2014, 05:50 PM   #863
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I'm using an 18V drill, and it does slow a bit when I get to the last inch -- but not enough to stop progress! I am right at 6" as well.
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Old 04-16-2014, 06:45 PM   #864
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I'm at 6 1/2" on the jacks and that last inch is tough, so I prefer the manual stabilizer handle for turning them.
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Old 04-16-2014, 06:50 PM   #865
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I'm using an 18V drill, and it does slow a bit when I get to the last inch -- but not enough to stop progress! I am right at 6" as well.
Huh! Mine's an 18V too. So a similar experience to you and Doug. Maybe I'm not missing anything? If it's early morning, I'll use the manual ratchet so the drill doesn't wake up the neighbors :-)

Still wondering about your process though. When exactly are you applying WD - or - what did you mean by "dropping the tongue"?

Thanks!
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Old 04-16-2014, 07:12 PM   #866
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I think he means that he uses the tongue jack to raise the tongue up to make it easier for the drill to tighten the stabilizer jacks. Once he has them at the right height, he lowers the tongue with the tongue jack.
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Old 04-16-2014, 07:12 PM   #867
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Yes exactly - sorry - I confused terms
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Old 04-16-2014, 09:51 PM   #868
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I also leave the tongue jack in its original hookup position, tighten the jacks and then lower the tongue. Porter-Cable 20v. Use it for the stabilizer screw jacks as well. Good for two maybe three cycles before charging.
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