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Old 03-26-2014, 02:37 AM   #827
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I believe Sean was thinking about marketing such a device for use at service and storage facilities. I don't know if he ever built one of them. You may want to call Sean to see if he decided to start building and marketing this device.
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:09 AM   #828
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Bud I talked with Sean yesterday. He built some prototypes but nothing for re-sale. I'll give the factory a call today and try and get some photos of what they do.
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Old 03-26-2014, 09:17 AM   #829
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My truck has a complete air bag suspension system that keeps it level regardless of load.

I found I needed to drop the truck side of the hitch down a hole and when that was accomplished, the trailer is now about 0.25" low in front. I have all the washers (substituted a slightly thinner one for one of Sean's washers) on the pin and crank the 1400 pound arms to 6".

When I pick up the trailer from the solar and disc brake conversion, I will bring it home to the Phoenix area from the Dallas area and put the mattresses and all our "stuff" inside and start the weighing process for information only. The trailer currently is not bouncing like it did at 5" of jack height.

I have more than adequate axle and tire load capacity and ignore the GVW label.
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Old 03-26-2014, 02:41 PM   #830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chracatoa View Post
Sometimes when I'm turning after a full stop I hear something slipping in the hitch. I can't tell what it is - maybe it's the spring bar?

I was taking the trailer for service today and it was easier to reproduce it because it was raining which probably made the hitch parts more slippery.

As I said, this happens often but nothing seems wrong with the hitch afterwards. Did anybody notice something similar?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Greetings.. Wondering if you ever got an answer to your question... I'm experiencing the same thing during a turn from a stop.. All bolts are properly torqued and there is no slippage in the yoke etc. and like you .. everything seems fine.. The only thing I can attribute this to are the weight jack bars (bars that attach to jack hook and weight distributing springs bars) sliding against the rail at the base.

When it happens .. it's a pretty good jolt and doesn't seem normal. Let me know if you found the silver bullet on this issue.. Dustin..
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Old 03-26-2014, 03:26 PM   #831
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsaxon22 View Post
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Greetings.. Wondering if you ever got an answer to your question... I'm experiencing the same thing during a turn from a stop.. All bolts are properly torqued and there is no slippage in the yoke etc. and like you .. everything seems fine.. The only thing I can attribute this to are the weight jack bars (bars that attach to jack hook and weight distributing springs bars) sliding against the rail at the base.

When it happens .. it's a pretty good jolt and doesn't seem normal. Let me know if you found the silver bullet on this issue.. Dustin..
Just to make sure: You guys aren't turning so sharp that it puts the hitch head against the internal (under the cover) stops, are you?

Ken
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Old 03-26-2014, 03:35 PM   #832
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Negative for me.. Just a normal wide turn from a stop at an intersection etc. Any feedback is greatly appreciated..
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Old 03-27-2014, 08:32 AM   #833
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Originally Posted by dsaxon22 View Post
Negative for me.. Just a normal wide turn from a stop at an intersection etc. Any feedback is greatly appreciated..
If I heard a noise immediately after a stop, I would suspect that the hitch is heading toward a "Henseley bump". Next time you are towing, come to a stop, manually apply the trailer brakes and release the TV brakes (to insure the hitch is "stretched out". Then release the trailer brakes and make your turn. If no "noise", then, slightly increase your brake voltage.

If you've checked all your torques on fasteners, then I am sure you thought to grease the WD bars (and the ball). On the bars, there is severe point-loading (nature of the beast) and although grease may be dripping out of the WD bar bushings, it doesn't necessarily mean there is grease in the right spots in the bushings. Everyone has there preference but I use Moly EP grease on WD bars. The molybdenum is great for anti-galling and is typically used on high-load, slow moving parts. The WD bars are having to swing under load (although only a few degrees at the bushing) when turning so a potential noise source. Many consider the recommended greasing intervals over-kill on these types of hitches and it may be if you are running interstate out West. However, if you wait until your WD bars are growling...a grease gun won't put the metal back that was worn away to make all those noises.

If you suspect the flat-bar going down to the WD bars is rubbing on the "rails", put some masking tape on them as "tattle-tells" or smear a little grease on them and see if the noise stops. May not hurt to put a little lube on the jack hooks, too. (I use silicon spray that is intended for RV slide-outs so it doesn't pick up grit). The flat-bar can bind slightly on the hooks when making a turn and therefore, another source for noise. As the holes for the hooks are used, the sharp corners of the holes become rounded and less likely to bind. Chains would work great in this application as long as connected to the TV but once disconnected, the hitch head would fall making re-hitching somewhat interesting especially solo.

Not totally related to your issue but related to the hitch, make sure that the "stub" on the back of the yoke is roughly centered up in its mating bracket. The yoke prevents the head from swiveling in a horizontal plane but since the yoke bolts on the head aren't center-line with the trailer ball, the yoke needs to have the ability to move fore and aft (on the roller) without binding when moving in a vertical plane. Likewise, it is important that the yoke can hinge relatively freely on the attachment bolts on the head. On my first PP hitch install, I had to remove some powder coat and dress the welds to prevent binding with the bolts torqued. My second PP was purchased several months later and I only had to remove the powder coat to get them to move easily.





As luck would have it, I ended up with two of the heavier tongue weight Airstreams... one at 1,030 lbs. and the other at 1,360 lbs. (almost max tongue capacity on the PP hitch). No creaking, popping or moaning from either. I couldn't be happier in the hitch department but also realize when it comes to hitches, there is no "set it and forget it".

Z
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:09 AM   #834
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Dsaxon22,

I will have my first trip of the year on April 11th (weather permitting - otherwise it'll be May). I just ordered a used camera from Amazon and I intend to film it. If it happens I hope I get something on camera. My old camera died earlier this year.

I partially welded my jacks to the frame since it is only 2" wide (not an Airstream) and I intend to look at them too.

Anyway, I can just say that this hitch is a life saver. I had a 2400 mile trip last year and if it weren't for this hitch I wouldn't be able to keep at the same speed as the rest of the convoy. No matter what trailer I have in the future I will always have a ProPride.
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:42 PM   #835
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zackybilly1 View Post
If I heard a noise immediately after a stop, I would suspect that the hitch is heading toward a "Henseley bump". Next time you are towing, come to a stop, manually apply the trailer brakes and release the TV brakes (to insure the hitch is "stretched out". Then release the trailer brakes and make your turn. If no "noise", then, slightly increase your brake voltage.

If you've checked all your torques on fasteners, then I am sure you thought to grease the WD bars (and the ball). On the bars, there is severe point-loading (nature of the beast) and although grease may be dripping out of the WD bar bushings, it doesn't necessarily mean there is grease in the right spots in the bushings. Everyone has there preference but I use Moly EP grease on WD bars. The molybdenum is great for anti-galling and is typically used on high-load, slow moving parts. The WD bars are having to swing under load (although only a few degrees at the bushing) when turning so a potential noise source. Many consider the recommended greasing intervals over-kill on these types of hitches and it may be if you are running interstate out West. However, if you wait until your WD bars are growling...a grease gun won't put the metal back that was worn away to make all those noises.

If you suspect the flat-bar going down to the WD bars is rubbing on the "rails", put some masking tape on them as "tattle-tells" or smear a little grease on them and see if the noise stops. May not hurt to put a little lube on the jack hooks, too. (I use silicon spray that is intended for RV slide-outs so it doesn't pick up grit). The flat-bar can bind slightly on the hooks when making a turn and therefore, another source for noise. As the holes for the hooks are used, the sharp corners of the holes become rounded and less likely to bind. Chains would work great in this application as long as connected to the TV but once disconnected, the hitch head would fall making re-hitching somewhat interesting especially solo.

Not totally related to your issue but related to the hitch, make sure that the "stub" on the back of the yoke is roughly centered up in its mating bracket. The yoke prevents the head from swiveling in a horizontal plane but since the yoke bolts on the head aren't center-line with the trailer ball, the yoke needs to have the ability to move fore and aft (on the roller) without binding when moving in a vertical plane. Likewise, it is important that the yoke can hinge relatively freely on the attachment bolts on the head. On my first PP hitch install, I had to remove some powder coat and dress the welds to prevent binding with the bolts torqued. My second PP was purchased several months later and I only had to remove the powder coat to get them to move easily.





As luck would have it, I ended up with two of the heavier tongue weight Airstreams... one at 1,030 lbs. and the other at 1,360 lbs. (almost max tongue capacity on the PP hitch). No creaking, popping or moaning from either. I couldn't be happier in the hitch department but also realize when it comes to hitches, there is no "set it and forget it".

Z

Hey ZacBilly1.. Thanks for the detailed reply, tips and pics.. My yoke tail is evened out so I'm good there.. Regarding the grease .. I applied liberally during install and then pumped it full with a high quality grease such as yourself until it came out the bottom.. I'll try some of the other tips.. i'm also thinking maybe my chains are too short, although the length was based on the instructions.. and made sense..

Bringing it home this weekend and will take some pics.. Maybe you or someone else here will see something I don't...

By the way.. Sweet catch and nice write up on the Pan American.. I remember seeing one at my local dealer when they first hit the streets.. At the time I was racing motocross and wanted one for race events... Just couldn't talk the spouse into it..
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Old 03-28-2014, 08:24 AM   #836
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Dsaxon,

Sometimes diagnosing over the internet isn't that easy...and you have to be careful not to insult anyone's intelligence ...(i.e., greased?). I'm not the PP expert or anything close but my curve is going up and I'll help you anyway I can. I do understand mechanical things but I also understand that there is no replacement for experience. Sometime several sets of eyes, especially experienced ones, are better than one and if in your part of the world, I'd gladly jump into the back of the truck and watch what is going on....and enjoy it. Now that I know the fact that you raced motocross, I know that mechanical things aren't foreign to you and I apologize if I over elaborated on the obvious. I have no doubt you'll find the source of your noise and have no doubt it's something minor...just irritating.

If you don't have a problem with a laugh every now and then or maybe seeing something a little different in the AS community, keep an eye on that Pan America thread. It might not be impressive but it may border on amusing, if nothing else. The PA sub-forum could use a little activity anyway and maybe it will provide some reading "fluff" when winter is bearing down on us again.

Z
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Old 03-28-2014, 10:22 AM   #837
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I will also try the grease and the tape. What do you mean by "rails"? I noticed the paint on the jack where we have some contact with the WD bars (below the hooks) is always scratched.
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Old 03-28-2014, 10:53 AM   #838
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Originally Posted by chracatoa View Post
I will also try the grease and the tape. What do you mean by "rails"? I noticed the paint on the jack where we have some contact with the WD bars (below the hooks) is always scratched.
Do you have any pictures of your hitch set up and with the WD tensioned. I'm having a tough time imagining how the jack and WD bars can come in contact. Are you talking about the WD jacks or the trailer tongue jack?

I also don't understand what rails are.

Ken
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Old 03-28-2014, 12:17 PM   #839
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Sorry, not the WD bars. The WD "links". I think this may be the rails he's talking about. The one with the holes.

Maybe adding some grease to where the links touch the jack (not the hook part) also should help?
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Old 04-10-2014, 10:40 AM   #840
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I took the trailer home from the parking space (our first trip is tomorrow) and I have video of it. I didn't hear the noise anymore. This is the first time I towed with the jacks welded to the frame so I wonder if the noise was coming from the jacks. The reason I welded them was because my frame is only 2" and sometimes they tilted. It seems much better now! Or maybe that isn't it and yesterday wasn't that wet for anything to slip on the hitch. We'll see.


Here's the video:
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