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Old 11-02-2009, 11:12 PM   #101
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stinger comparison 8...

last of the welding sidebysides...

i've made NO statement comparing strength...

because i KNOW nothing about welding.

but clearly one looks better done than the other,

even after accounting for age related rust and usage.

also keep in mind PRICE is comparable too....

OK, on to the pp stinger PARTS and ASSEMBLY and ADJUSTMENT

next time.

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-05-2009, 07:12 PM   #102
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Towing

Well....Just got back home today and drove about 1600 miles total.give or take a few and the hitch proved to be worth every penny spent.I have already used a tube of of the Red grease and need to get more tomorrow.(plan to purchase several tubes.)that stuff turns black fast.Bolts are all tight and snug.
No problems with sway whatsoever.I actually had a couple rigs come close to me from the draft or suction.Other than that.Everyone keeps asking me what it is and where is the receiver ball hitch at.
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Old 11-14-2009, 12:19 PM   #103
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Lube

As much as I have been lubing up my PP.I noticed that it gets dirty quite a bit.Should I remove the bars every now and then to clean them up inside the main arm where the zerks are or is this ok to just leave alone?I mean as long as I am lubing up and pushing out the old grease,It should be ok?
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Old 11-14-2009, 12:35 PM   #104
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how much grease is GOOD 4 yer pp...?

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Originally Posted by Devoman View Post
..I mean as long as I am lubing up and pushing out the old grease,It should be ok?
YES, so don't obsess over this...

i WIPE off the residual OOZING grease right after an injection.

using a disposable paper towel and glove.

the goal is to just NOT have to much sand, grit and road debris, mucking up things.
_________

the IMPORTANT thing is not letting the bar heads get DRY.

even old grease is better than no grease.

there is very little heat, motion or WEAR happening to the grease INSIDE the hitch head and bar connection.

so the 'turning dark' isn't a major concern for the grease as long as it is still LUBRICATING.
_________

the official owners manual suggest frequent/regular injections of grease

and the old haha stuff says EVERY 500 miles.

but largely it depends on TIME between injections, weather, miles, turns and ALL the other variables.

so for example on a 3000 mile interstate tow done in 1 week,

i might lube before and after, not during, but inspecting regularly.

while in a 6 week trip, REGARDLESS of miles, i would inspect, inject and wipe weekly.
_________

there is NO NEED 2 routinely/frequently remove the bars from the hitch head.

perhaps 1 TIME each year, on the SAME day U regrease the BALL/cup.

unless there is trouble or malfunction, which would be casebycase.
_________

and the RED grease (synthetic) isn't absolutely required or better than any lithium/moly grease.

it's just EASIER to see when 2 stop pumping, as the first traces of red ooze out.

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-14-2009, 05:53 PM   #105
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Installation ease? My bad back....

I was wondering about your opinion with regards to back stress.
As you might imagine from this post, my back is horrible.

Once properly installed; would you say that the hitching up/down process with the PP is easier or harder than a conventional WD system?

Sometimes when installing my torsion bars, I throw out my back.

It seems that you don't have to play with the setup to hitch up/down except for the WD adjustment; which I could use my cordless drill, and just aligning the hitch bar with the TV's hitch receiver. Am I getting this right?
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Old 11-14-2009, 06:07 PM   #106
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With the HA and PP You are still going to need to lift the hitch bar in to the receiver on your TV, and these things can get heavy depending on the drop yur require. Some people leave them in place but they do stick out the back a bit.

Don
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Old 11-14-2009, 06:10 PM   #107
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hitch

The only thing that seems to use a lot of muscle is clamping the hitch to the reciever and that is not really hard at all.Other than that you just hook up and drill away on the adjustable arm.What would take me about 20 minutes or so setting up with the equalizer in the past,I now can hook up in just 10 minutes or less and be ready to roll.
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Old 11-14-2009, 06:14 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawn77 View Post
... Am I getting this right?
hi rawn'

yes.

ONCE installed on the trailer, the PP remains ON the trailer.

hookup/disconnect and driving the tv AWAY from the trailer need NOT ever involve LIFTING the pp again.

and the w/d (spring bars) remained INSTALLED on the trailer, so no awkward fiddling here.
_________

the STINGER (see that string of stinger posts) weighs about 48 lbs.

it can REMAIN plugged INTO the t.v. OR pulled off and stowed.

because it STICKs OUT from the t.v. receiver box, many folks pull it once the trailer is parked.

then store it somewhere (in the PP nose OR under the trailer or IN the tv)

i typically LEAVE it plugged in on the truck,

and cover it with a POOL noodle knee knocker protector thing...(pics to follow)
_________

as U can see from the pix loudruff and steveH posted a carry/lift handle can be added to the stinger.
_________

and the screw jacks mean NEVER lifting chains onto hooks.

ratchet or power drill makes tensions the jacks-w/d bars easy on the back too.
_________

the heaviest lifting is when the BOXES first arrive (see post #6 )

and the ONE TIME the main hitch head is lifted ON to the stinger during installation (post #12).

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-14-2009, 06:20 PM   #109
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Thanks guys; you just caused me a couple thou!
Cheers,
Ron
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Old 11-14-2009, 06:28 PM   #110
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Thanks guys; you just caused me a couple thou!..Cheers,Ron
ron...

tell sean HELLO from the UNofficial a/s pp users...!

we'll help U with the setup and basics...

and ONCE in use, only 2 fingers are really needed for driving.

that's a backside (sphincter stress) saver too!

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:03 PM   #111
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2air
I have seen Loudruff Hook up. NO PAIN NO STRAIN. Dont take that long either. We are both old truckers so liftin the stinger is no problem. NICE setup.
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:48 PM   #112
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Thanks 2air
I think I'll let Andy from CanAm RV install it when I pickup my baby in January.
Your posts are awesome!
We're truly blessed to have such dedicated RVers on these forums.

Ron
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:57 PM   #113
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...I think I'll let Andy from CanAm RV install it when I pickup my baby in January...
well ron, we're all just trying to get by here...

canAM is THE go-to place in your region so they'll dial it in and TEST drive it too!

go back and look at devo's bar in post #59...

depending of DROP YOUR merc' will be pretty close to his set up.

this means the STINGER could actually be made LIGHTER by cutting OFF those 4-6 inches of steel sticking UP...

i'm not suggesting you do this (check with sean too) and it would LIMIT the ability to swap tow vehicles...

but removing the excess section would lighten the stinger several pounds, once it is properly adjusted.

canAM can sort this out for you,

but be sure and TAKE PHOTOS of whatever they do and bring them back to the pp users guide...

it takes a village

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-14-2009, 09:59 PM   #114
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Did I miss tomorrow?

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Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
no bob.

the secrets you seek are just ahead,

in graphic detail and revealing images,

tomorrow perhaps.

cheers
2air'
Hi, did I miss it again?
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Old 11-14-2009, 10:01 PM   #115
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my WORLD hasn't made a full revolution yet 'round the sun, bob !

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Hi, did I miss it again?
no bob.

the secrets you seek are just ahead,

in graphic detail and revealing images,

tomorrow perhaps.



cheers
2air'
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Old 11-14-2009, 10:28 PM   #116
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2air
I will definitely take photos of the PP install as well as the solar-4 AGM battery-inverter-autoswitch install Andy is putting in. I'll make sure to post them to the appropriate thread, not to worry.

By the way, there are some great videos of a PP install on youtube

This is only the first of 8 videos in this series

Regards
Ron
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Old 11-24-2009, 09:46 PM   #117
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stinger comparison 9...

good links rawn'

gotta love movin' pictures.
_______

ok it's time to get our pp stingers out again (we left off at post 101)

and finish up on the specifics of this component and it's unique features.

for reference, here's a shot of the 2 stingers set up to ~ the drop...

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cheers
2air'
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Old 11-24-2009, 09:58 PM   #118
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pp stinger adjustability 1...

the old style stinger (haha style) is a FIXED drop and must be ordered to MATCH needs.

while the PP comes with a stinger that's adjustable for DROP and TILT.

the photos shows it assembled ~ the max drop (8-9 inches) and LEVEL

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while below we see it TILTED downward (at the left) ~5 degrees.


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it can also be tilted UP ~the same amount, depicted here...


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ZOOM any pic for a LARGER look...


cheers
2air'
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:04 PM   #119
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pp stinger adjustability 2...

in this series the DROP is set to ~5.5 inches (my configuration)...

first level...


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then tilted DOWN (at the rear)


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and then tilted UP...


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clink any pic for a LARGER view...

cheer
2air'
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Old 11-24-2009, 10:10 PM   #120
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Quote:
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2air
I will definitely take photos of the PP install as well as the solar-4 AGM battery-inverter-autoswitch install Andy is putting in. I'll make sure to post them to the appropriate thread, not to worry.

By the way, there are some great videos of a PP install on youtube

This is only the first of 8 videos in this series

Regards
Ron

Here is the link to the site for these videos.It was also very helpful to me also.
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