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Old 11-01-2009, 12:54 PM   #71
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OK, just back from my first trip with the PP hitch, and I can only say one thing about it....it works. It does exactly what Sean claims it will do, it eliminates sway, period.

We only went about 100 miles from home, but I noticed the improvment quickly. In the past with the Reese Dual Cam hitch, there was a slight amount of "wiggle" induced when we crossed the minor breaks in the pavement when crossing bridges, and when hitting irregularities in the surface of the pavement, etc. There was a slight tendency for the trailer to want to sway in a cross wind that always required a slight amount of corrective action with the steering wheel. In short, the driver allways had to be making small corrective inputs to the wheel, and allways had to be at attention. All of these tendencies are not reduced, they are eliminated.

About the last 20 miles of our trip out, we had a significant cross wind (I estimate a 20-25 mph wind), and I commented to my wife that I could feel the wind hitting the rig, but there was no sway, and to illustrate, I took my hands of the wheel momentarily, and the whole rig continued absolutely straight down the road even while you could feel the wind hitting us.

In short, the hitch really works well...much better than any of the previous "anti sway" hitches I've owned ever could have. At this point, I only wish I had bought one sooner.

One happy camper,
Steve
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Old 11-01-2009, 01:33 PM   #72
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Even though I have been extremely satisfied with Lucy's HAHA for over three years and 50,000 towing miles, I have been taking a serious look at the PP for two reasons. One, it has a height adjustable hitch bar. On my HAHA, I have tried a 4" drop and it pulls high, and my current 6" drop pulls a little low. The other item is that the HAHA still works great, but looks like crap. I am wondering if the PP is more aesthetically durable.

I realize that PP is producing a height adjustable hitch bar for the HAHA. I have considered getting one of these, but at $500, I am wondering if I should just sell the HAHA and get a new PP. I tow 20,000 miles a year, so this is not out of the question.

In the most recent edition of the Hensley Safe Towing Newsletter there is an article about Hensley trying to develop their own height-adjustable hitch bar. Hensley discontinued this project when their test showed that it could not be made strong enough to handle the extreme tensions put on the hitch bar by the weight distribution function and the lateral tensions of the sway control function. Hensley claims that a welded hitch bar is the only way to go.

Is this sour grapes, or is there something to this information? Having two different tow vehicles, I would love to have a height-adjustable hitch bar.

What are your thoughts?

Brian
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Old 11-01-2009, 01:46 PM   #73
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good report steveH

but careful with the testimonials HERE...

they tend to attract YESBUTTS

who will post about NOT NEEDING this gizmo.

the "two fingers" and relaxed posture for steering...

vs WHITE KNUCKLES and a tight backside,

is a major league GOOD THING.
_______

Quote:
Originally Posted by moosetags View Post
Having two different tow vehicles, I would love to have a height-adjustable hitch bar...
hi brian

i had (and still have) some of the same questions about welded vs bolted...

and my PREFECT drop was also in-between 4 and 6 inches...

so the pp stinger is set at ~5.2 inches,

and with the ANGLING up/down feature...

the increments of change are almost infinite.

I WILL BE POSTING

detailed pics and comparisons of the 2 stingers 2morrow...

so stay tuned.

and hold on to your draw bar...

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:25 PM   #74
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I will say I found one little "issue" with the PP hitch. At times during the first leg of the trip, it felt like the truck was pulling to the Right, but it was slight. I had never experienced this before with the Reese hitch.

After thinking a while about what could possibly cause this, I started measuring, and found that even though I had both jacks raised the exact same distance (6"), the bars were different distance from a reference point on the trailer "A" frame. The difference between the two bars was about 3/16". I checked the symetry of the installation, side to side, and could find no issues. I checked the two steel straps that go from the jacks to the bars and could find no difference. So, I decided the slight difference must be between where the "hooks" were welded onto the two jacks, something that was difficult for me to measure.

I ended up adjusting for the 3/16" difference at the "U" bolts that attach the steel straps to the bars. By tightening one, and loosening the other, I got both bars the exact same distance under the trailer "A" frame when the jacks were the same distance up in adjustment.

I did not notice any pulling in the steering of the TV on the return trip. I can't say for sure that this slight difference in measurement is a problem, or that it caused the slight pull I felt in the steering, but at least I feel better knowing both bars are at the same distance, and at least theoretically are carrying the same load.
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:31 PM   #75
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Towing

So far I can tell a huge difference in towing.It was very stable and very nice while driving.I drove about 760 miles so far and I am about to leave tomorrow and will be driving another 470 miles to my next destination.
Before I leave tomorrow I will be doing maintenance to see how everything is on the hitch such as bolts,grease,receiver hitch and whatever else is needed.
I am loving the fact that I dont have to hear the popping and cracking of the old hitch I had and not have to take 15 minutes or more to hook up.I can hook up in just a few minutes with the PP.
I will have another update when I get to my other destination tomorrow.
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Old 11-01-2009, 08:54 PM   #76
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good report devo'

had a feeling you would notice a BIG difference with the short wheelbase t-rex.

when u INSPECT i think it's important to include the vw receiver in your list.

i know the bolts are buried under bumper fascia but still you need to keep an eye on the receiver...

how's the w/d working with the autoleveln' on the vdub ???
_______________

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
... it felt like the truck was pulling to the Right, but it was slight...
hi steve it could have been the small w/d bar difference,

but take a look at the YOKE and frame bracket too. (posts #10 and 17)

my understanding is that IF either of these is much OFF the midline,

one may experience a little pulling 2 one side or the other.

it's pretty easy to get the bracket centered but lining up the Yoke is a tad more effort.

go back over the section in the OFFICIAL pp instructions,

where setup discusses 'straight tv/straight trailer' and the hitch head/yoke...

((i will do a long focused string of posts on THAT topic later this month))

and i cannot over state how IMPORTANT it is to KEEP the w/d bars (inserts) LUBRICATED.

pump the zerks till grease is OOOZING OUT. wipe off the excess and do it again after towing/turning some.

after a few weeks you'll get a feel for how OFTEN to re-grease,

but until then MORE is good.

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:21 PM   #77
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Autolevel

I played with the W/D for a while and now have the adjusters at 3 inches high.I moved it a 1/2 inch more upwards but it started to pull the vehicles back end up pretty high.So I have the setting perfect now at the 3 inches.
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:28 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devoman View Post
So far I can tell a huge difference in towing.It was very stable and very nice while driving.I drove about 760 miles so far and I am about to leave tomorrow and will be driving another 470 miles to my next destination.
Before I leave tomorrow I will be doing maintenance to see how everything is on the hitch such as bolts,grease,receiver hitch and whatever else is needed.
I am loving the fact that I dont have to hear the popping and cracking of the old hitch I had and not have to take 15 minutes or more to hook up.I can hook up in just a few minutes with the PP.
I will have another update when I get to my other destination tomorrow.
Hi devo'
Just a thought - when I think of slight pulling to right, the first thing that pops in my mind is a crowned or sloping road.
Regarding 2air's mention of the yoke:
I had an experience with that. On one of the first short tows I made with the hitch, I had to make very hard turn. Due to a couple of things that I have since corrected, the yoke shifted to one side as far as the brackets would allow. It still towed fine except that every time I applied the brakes, it would pull noticeably to the right.
Regards,
Ken
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:38 PM   #79
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Safety chains

On my trailer, the chain attachment point on the A frame is only 3-4 inches behind the back of the Main hitch unit, That combined with the hitch drop necessary with my truck, means that the chains have to drop nearly vertical, go under the hitch head, and then climb very steeply to get to the chain attachment points on the truck. In order to get enough slack to remain clear of the hitch parts, they are only about 2 inches off the road.
If anyone can understand what I am trying to describe, does that sound normal/OK?
Thanks,
Ken
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:48 PM   #80
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Originally Posted by w7ts View Post
...In order to get enough slack to remain clear of the hitch parts, they are only about 2 inches off the road.
If anyone can understand what I am trying to describe, does that sound normal/OK?...
hi ken

i understand but it would be SO much easier to visualize it with...

come on, what's that thing called?

a photo

yeah, yeah, the cat ate the camera and the trailer is in storage, but still....
____________

anyway my vote is for 2 inches of CLEARANCE between the hitch/chains.

not 2 inches from the road.

in fact i'd not worry about the chains being pretty CLOSE to the w/d bars-hitch head area...

because the chains DROP AWAY from the mechanicals with all turning...

and since ANY turn will effectively LENGTHEN the chains,

so they COULD drag on turns, IF only 2 inches above the road when straight.

some folks bunge the chain slack.

and keep an eye on SCUFFING on the lowest links.

my suggestion is 4 U 2 inspect the chain position after stopping with the tv/trailer ANGLED 90 degrees...

and while u r doing THAT...

hold the cat up, focus and push the CLICK button...

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:41 PM   #81
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Here is the problem with the chains getting longer when you turn part. The instructions say to route the chains under the head and between the WD bars. When I turn to the right the hitch head swings to the left taking the WD bars with it. This forces the chains to the left because the chains are attached so far forward on the A frame that there is only a few inches between the bars where the chains cross them. This is causing the chains to shorten faster than the turn is lengthening them.
When you get a chance could you measure the distance on your trailer from the center of the hitch ball socket to the chain attachment points.
I would appreciate it. In the meantime, I will see what I can do about pictures. The next two days are the boss's days off, so I will be pretty much doing what she tells me.
If I get down to the trailer tomorrow, I will see if there is a place that I could bungee the chains back further on the A frame.
Do you cross your chains?
Thanks,
Ken
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Old 11-01-2009, 11:26 PM   #82
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hi ken

ok, lets do some FORUM tweaks first...

which will make it MUCH EASIER to follow/read/scan these LONG LONG threads...

1. go to the "User CP" (button next to portal in the TOP blue bar) and CLICK.
2. go to the 3rd heading (setting and options) and CLICK on the 4th listing "edit options"...
3. now scroll down to the 3rd window/box call "THREAD DISPLAY OPTIONS"...
4. see the 3rd box "number of post to show per page" and CHANGE it from...

"forum display fault" to>>>>>>>>>>>"display 100 posts per page"

now close USER control panel and come back to this thread.
________________

doing the above will give you 100 posts per page on your browser/display...

takes about 2 second for a LONG 100 with lots of pics to load (broadband)

but you will be able to SCROLL 100 posts now easy, because they are ALL on ONE page...

for example, after doing this the haha thead is only about 8-9 pages long!!!!

this will help you with my next post...

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-01-2009, 11:34 PM   #83
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Blind squirrel syndrome

Believe it or not I discovered that a month or so ago and have been set at 100 since then. I scanned up the tread and found SteveH's picture. Mine looks pretty much like that. I ran into this nuisance when I lowered the drop down one hole, because the trailer was high in the front.
Ken
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Old 11-01-2009, 11:36 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by w7ts View Post
...When you get a chance could you measure the distance on your trailer from the center of the hitch ball socket to the chain attachment points...
ok now...

the chains/A frame loops can be seen in posts...

#7...pic 2
#10 pic 4
#12 pic 4 (good view)
#16 pic 3 (good view)
#17 pic 2 (good view)
and
#21 pic 2 & 3 (hooked up and crossed UNDER/between the bars..

also they can be seen in devo's and steveH's pics in posts...

#40,41,44 and #66,67
_______________

u may need to open the pics in a separate window and ZOOOOM.
_______________

on my unit the chain LOOPs appear about 5 inches back from the ball...

about the same for the safaris (steveH/devo') but you've got a classic,

so the loops should be CLOSE to similar to mine ???
_______________

i DROP the CHAINS down INSIDE the YOKE frame and they come OUT right behind the ball/cup...

see the pics in post #16, 17, 21...
_______________

yep i cross em and i've got a RAISED f250 4x4 so the receiver box is 20+ inches...
_______________

do those pics help ya ???

cheers
2air'
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