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Old 03-17-2014, 11:04 PM   #813
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The unofficial pp users guide...

Cat scales will weigh in either ten or twenty pound increments, which means they will weigh to the closest five or ten pounds respectively .

These scales are capable of weighing that closely , and when properly calibrated they will, throughout their range from zero to capacity.

The variance for certification is very small, a twenty or thirty pound variance overall from balls on, (at about 60000lbs), is sufficient to place the scale out of service and/or mandatory servicing in most states.

The variance allowed is a percentage of the test weight on the scale, so pound for pound, there is less tolerance for error at lower weight than higher weights.
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Old 03-18-2014, 07:13 AM   #814
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Some questions looking for a clue to the problem. Are you sure you have 1400# w.d. bars? Yes
What is the wheelbase of the truck? 143.5"
Has the truck had any suspension or wheel/tire modifications? No
Are the headlights aimed properly at night with the Airstream in tow? Slightly high, measuring front wheel opening I am 1/4-1/2 high hooked up.
Is the trailer level and the truck near level with w.d applied? Yes
Are the w.d bars level or high or low at the back with w.d. applied? The are pulled up. See photo.
Is the truck hitch receiver flexing when you tighten the bars? No
Would you have a photo of them hooked up? Attached.

Doug would you have a weight ticket you could share for your setup?

Also I have shared the photos and weight data with Sean. His conclusion like mine is that the truck is maxed out and that the setup looks correct and normal.
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:24 AM   #815
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Gary, Might I suggest a bit more downward tilt of the stinger to take up the slop of the receiver? I like to have the stinger tip and the swing arms between the hitch box and head parallel to the trailer frame and ground while hitched and the spring bars under flex. A vertical placement of the portion of the stinger (with the holes) is also a visual check to levelness of the setup. Based on what I see, I would try 2 more washers.
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:46 AM   #816
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Gary, your truck looks slightly low in the back to me while the trailer is level. The hitch head and w.d. bars appear tilted up compared to ours. I am also new to ProPride but when we apply the w.d the truck returns close to original attitude (slightly higher in back) with the trailer level.

Our truck is 120" wheelbase reg cab, we travel with very little gear in the truck. If we had a heavy duty truck we would still travel with very little gear in the truck, so I don't consider that a limitation. Never have seen reason to weigh it.

As for the truck "maxed out", that is up to you. I'm sure you will get agreement and a recommendation for a heavy duty truck forthcoming.

Although Sean is most surely the expert, I wonder if tilting the hitch head down would transfer more weight, and resetting the drop bar height to bring the trailer to level if it does?
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Old 03-18-2014, 09:50 AM   #817
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Good catch, Doug. If there were more tilt it would certainly help the low truck, if the bars were cinched to their present height. Pictures are hard to see all, but I think dropping the stinger to the next hole (1 1/4") might be too much drop. He might be in a tweener situation. Only the measurin' stick will tell.
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Old 03-18-2014, 10:09 AM   #818
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Front/Rear wheel wells measure 36.25/36 inches when hooked up. Unloaded 36/38.25 inches.
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Old 03-18-2014, 01:16 PM   #819
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Weights and measurements indicate to me (and I'm certainly no expert) not enough weight distribution is applied or possible without some head tilt (more washers) and repositioning of the draw bar to keep the trailer level.

It will probably tow just fine as it is, but I don't like the loss of traction and steering "feel" when the front axle is lightened and I come onto damp road surfaces in misty or rainy weather.
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Old 03-18-2014, 01:56 PM   #820
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Doug when you say add more washers which direction do you want the stinger tip to move? Up or down towards the road? Unloaded it has a slight up tilt. Under load it is level to the ground.
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Old 03-18-2014, 02:28 PM   #821
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Tip down.
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:31 AM   #822
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So a bit of an update. The receiver mount was installed in the wrong direction. Got to looking and thinking about this. The math on the instruction sheet is pretty clear. I thought it should be with the plates down but the installer did them with the plates up. Had a short call with Sean after I did some measurements yesterday. While the trailer looked level the actual measurements were that it was tilted up with the front (measuring at the bottom of the frame at the tongue and back) was slightly more than a 3 inch difference.

Trailer as others may know, but new folks might not, should be level or nearly so.

Flipped the head plates over, checked that the stinger was also square to the truck frame and level to the ground. Set it so that it measured the 5.5 inch drop as determined from the instructions.

Another quick check with the trailer being level checked the height of the stinger opening on the head and it was only a bit different than the stinger height on the truck. Backed in an hitched up.

What a difference on the scales. With a 6.5" jack height, weights were (Frt/Rear/Trl) 3400/3420/5100) Unloaded on the jacks 2960/4020/4940). So goo transfer of weight with 160# going to the trailer.

So lesson learned. Trailer should be level. Use the math on the instruction sheet.

Still doesn't help me with the overall weight on the vehicle. Still only 380# of useful load. But the setup is much better and the load transfer was significantly better.
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Old 03-20-2014, 09:52 AM   #823
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New pics? The plates can go either way, but most applications down is best. I HAVE TO install with the plates up on my 1500 Express van. The top of the receiver box is only 14" off the ground and I need a 1" rise for proper adjustment.

Pictures can be deceiving...I can't see a 3" diff in your pics.
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Old 03-25-2014, 01:28 PM   #824
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New question. Trailer is going to be stored at an indoor site that moves the trailers in and out of the storage area on request. They are now puzzled as this is the first PP that they have seen. I left the receiver stinger installed but they use a fork lift with a ball that is welded onto one of the tongs to move normal trailers.

Looking for suggestions from folks that have run into this type of situation.

My one thought was to put a standard ball hitch assembly on to a 2x2 receiver tube, plug the stinger into the receiver/hitch and then they could hook that on the ball. Not sure if that would work since logically the assembly would rotate downwards under weight. Also the force on the PP head would not be primarily vertical like it is when hooked to a tow vehicle.

Saw Mooses note about how they do it at the factory. Anyone have photos?

Suggestions needed.

Update: Found this elsewhere. Would something like this work?
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Old 03-25-2014, 08:59 PM   #825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghaynes755 View Post
New question. Trailer is going to be stored at an indoor site that moves the trailers in and out of the storage area on request. They are now puzzled as this is the first PP that they have seen. I left the receiver stinger installed but they use a fork lift with a ball that is welded onto one of the tongs to move normal trailers.

Looking for suggestions from folks that have run into this type of situation.

My one thought was to put a standard ball hitch assembly on to a 2x2 receiver tube, plug the stinger into the receiver/hitch and then they could hook that on the ball. Not sure if that would work since logically the assembly would rotate downwards under weight. Also the force on the PP head would not be primarily vertical like it is when hooked to a tow vehicle.

Saw Mooses note about how they do it at the factory. Anyone have photos?

Suggestions needed.

Update: Found this elsewhere. Would something like this work?
I was looking at the ProPride web site and saw that they sell the stinger halves separately. The best solution I can think of would be the get the section that locks into the hitch head and some how modify it so a hitch ball socket similar to your picture could be welded to it. I looked at ours and it looks like it might be a lot of cutting and welding, but I need to look closer when I have more time.

Ken
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Old 03-25-2014, 09:35 PM   #826
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At Airstream Service Center they needed my stinger left in the hitch head, and have a receiver on the tractor to lift it with. They tensioned the w.d. bars before picking it up so the hitch head would not rotate vertically on the ball. They also used vice grip clamps on each side of the hitch head to lock the hitch head from swiveling side-to-side. Pretty simple operation for the guy who sees these every day.

You would need something as discussed to allow their ball to attach to your stinger.
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