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Old 09-29-2013, 08:47 AM   #743
cwf
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Originally Posted by Morgan guy View Post
I am not sure what is different about mine. I think I have done a fairly standard install. Will you be going to the Vintage Rally at Gonzales? I will be there. My TV is a Ford F150.
Morgan, won't make the VRally due to responsibilities. Perhaps I am confused (easily done)... I saw a pic where you (I think it was yours) mounted Rock Tamers on vertical square bar... I need to look to see if I have enough vertical showing on ours to mount there.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:09 AM   #744
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Update.. Sean is making a replacement adjustable hitch head for my 3P. Here's why. Install on my stock 2012 Silverado 2500 doesn't allow install of the Rock Tamers because the hole for the hitch pin is too far aft. With the Rock Tamer bracket on there, I can't insert deep enough to set pin. Attachment 196668 I wonder, dies anyone here have similar install on TV? My truck hitch has the "reducer sleeve" which has a small flare on the rear which helps Locate the holes. That is about the distance I am missing. So, FYI to others, and also a question...have you encountered?

I noticed Morgan Guy has his mounted differently and I need to check it out tomorrow!

I suspect tomorrow I will reinforce my claim of having a marginal brain capacity.
Interesting.....We have a 2013 2500 Ram with a class V hitch...with the insert / reducer sleeve
and our PP fits just fine.

I wonder if a similar problem applies to Ford?
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Old 09-30-2013, 06:47 AM   #745
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Hmmm, are your Rock Tamers old? I believe sometime around 2 - 3 years ago they changed the yoke that goes around the stinger. The newer ones have some angled cutouts in the casting. I have used both Hensley and Sean's adjustable (for HAHA) stingers with 2011, 2012, and 2013 Chevy 2500s without issue. Plenty of room.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:28 AM   #746
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwf View Post
Morgan, won't make the VRally due to responsibilities. Perhaps I am confused (easily done)... I saw a pic where you (I think it was yours) mounted Rock Tamers on vertical square bar... I need to look to see if I have enough vertical showing on ours to mount there.
Mine are mounted the standard way, horizontally on the front square bar that fits into the receiver. Never gave a thought to mounting them otherwise once I found that they fit that way. That would be an interesting way to mount them though if they would not fit normally. Sorry we won't see you this weekend. Should be a good event with 90+ AS and 40 of them vintage.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:30 AM   #747
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Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Hmmm, are your Rock Tamers old? I believe sometime around 2 - 3 years ago they changed the yoke that goes around the stinger. The newer ones have some angled cutouts in the casting. I have used both Hensley and Sean's adjustable (for HAHA) stingers with 2011, 2012, and 2013 Chevy 2500s without issue. Plenty of room.
I think I remember when I ordered my Rock Tamers that they stated they had changed the size of the casting. I had no problem fitting them on my stinger (F150 truck).
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:53 AM   #748
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Originally Posted by cwf View Post
Morgan, won't make the VRally due to responsibilities. Perhaps I am confused (easily done)... I saw a pic where you (I think it was yours) mounted Rock Tamers on vertical square bar... I need to look to see if I have enough vertical showing on ours to mount there.
Channing, you MAY be thinking of my installation for my 2000 Express van, posted in another thread. I had to mount on the vertical bar on that application as the van receiver is recessed too far under the bumper and the bumper interferes with the Rock Tamers.

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Old 09-30-2013, 04:32 PM   #749
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A Good TV Day...

Today my new ProPride hitch came in, my new TV came in and my new tennis shoes came in....all of which I'm excited about.

The Hensley pictured is on its way out and the 3P will be soon replacing it.



This is PP No. 2 for me. I thought I would just run a PP on one trailer and the HA on the other but after dealing with the PP for a few months, the HA's got to go.



I have been (and will continue when the situation calls for it) towing with a '13 Suburban 2500 w/ towing package (3.73 gears) but after driving the Silverado 2500HD/LTZ/Duramax, the Suburban feels like an ox cart. The Silverado drives good and much like a 1/2-ton but the Surburban requires you to drive every inch of the way. Contours in the road heavily influence the Suburbans direction unlike any of the 1/2-ton Suburbans I have owned. With the Suburban, I get 15-15.5 mpg unloaded and 8.5-9.5 towing on rather tame roads. Although I haven't towed with the new truck yet, so far and at 70 mph, I got in the neighborhood of 19-20 mpg on my 110 mile drive from the dealership...and it should improve once everything is broken-in. Aside from the drive-train, it's hard the believe the difference in the two TVs...from the Class V hitch on up through riding/driving quality. The receiver on the Silverado is at a decent height and doesn't require a "freak of nature" hitch bar (14" drop) like the Suburban does. With the interchangeable stingers of the ProPride, I can tow either trailer with either TV. Now that may not sound like a big deal but of the two Hensley's I have, the stingers don't interchange....so it is a big deal to me.



Everyone is entitled to their own opinion. My opinion is the 3P hitch is "head & shoulders" above the Hensley. In short, I would buy another PP if needed but wouldn't even consider another Hensley. Without the Hensley development, there would be no PP hitch but I'm not sticking with an inferior hitch just because they were doing it first. If Hensley had actively pursued a continuing improvement process on their product, there would be no market for the PP. But they didn't....and now the rest is history.

Tennis shoe pictures upon request only.

Z
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Old 09-30-2013, 04:57 PM   #750
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
Channing, you MAY be thinking of my installation for my 2000 Express van, posted in another thread. I had to mount on the vertical bar on that application as the van receiver is recessed too far under the bumper and the bumper interferes with the Rock Tamers.
Yup , that's the one . Sorry for confusion!

Our RTs have the "beveled" inside edges.

The distance from center of pin hole to edge of hitch brace on stinger is 4 inches.

Dznf0g, can you measure that distance on yours?
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:40 PM   #751
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Mine is only 3 7/8", if I understand your points of reference. I measured from the center of the pin hole to the side plates which contain the tilt/height holes. Excluded the weld "ramp". So I don't understand your fitment problem, since my Rock Tamers fit nicely on every 2500 I have used.
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Old 09-30-2013, 08:15 PM   #752
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Those are correct measurement points. I have 3" from face of reducer to center of pin hole on truck
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Old 10-03-2013, 12:14 PM   #753
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Ok, I think it's time to grease the hitch ball. How do I do it? I do not want to remove the giant bolts and I want to avoid any problems hitching it back.

I found this thread. However, the second picture looks like everything is removed. I hope that is the pic he took when he was installing the hitch the first time.

In my head the step by step would be something like this:

1. Disconnect spring bars from jacks (may not need this)
2. Free the yoke so it can move up and down
3. Release the latch on the coupler
4. Move it down
5. Grease the ball
6. Move it up
7. Lock the coupler latch
8. Attach spring bars back to jacks (if they're not attached)

Thanks.
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Old 10-04-2013, 06:51 AM   #754
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Originally Posted by chracatoa View Post
Ok, I think it's time to grease the hitch ball.
Just curious what makes you suspect it's time to grease the hitch ball?
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:18 AM   #755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chracatoa View Post
Ok, I think it's time to grease the hitch ball. How do I do it? I do not want to remove the giant bolts and I want to avoid any problems hitching it back.

I found this thread. However, the second picture looks like everything is removed. I hope that is the pic he took when he was installing the hitch the first time.

In my head the step by step would be something like this:

1. Disconnect spring bars from jacks (may not need this)
2. Free the yoke so it can move up and down
3. Release the latch on the coupler
4. Move it down
5. Grease the ball
6. Move it up
7. Lock the coupler latch
8. Attach spring bars back to jacks (if they're not attached)

Thanks.
All you need to do to grease the ball is put a floor jack under the PP, release the coupler, lower the PP, grease the ball, raise the PP back up into the coupler, and relock the coupler.
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:08 PM   #756
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KYAirstream View Post
Just curious what makes you suspect it's time to grease the hitch ball?
We should do it about once a year right?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH View Post
All you need to do to grease the ball is put a floor jack under the PP, release the coupler, lower the PP, grease the ball, raise the PP back up into the coupler, and relock the coupler.
I don't have a floor jack, can I just connect it to the car and use the tongue jack to move the trailer up?
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